Shian Pehlwan Akhara Fort Road Lahore (2013)

Kushti as the traditional wrestling is known in Pakistan is a cultural phenomenon in the old part of the cities and smaller towns. They wake up early in the morning, oil their bodies and wrestle in the Akhara (Earth pits). It does not include much weight lifting beside some dumbbells, just relying on making the boys plough the pit, pushups, jumping jacks and other indigenous exercises. With the summer sun rising the men will cover themselves with the dirt as it claim to cool them off and drink their favourite all-natural-energy drink Sardi made from the smashed almonds mixed in milk.

Visited Shahian Pehlwan Akhara near Taxali Gate in Lahore at the backdrop of the historic Lahore Fort and Badshahi Mosque on 20th January 2013. It is perhaps symbolic that the famous akhara that many from Pakistan’s greatest wrestling family stomped their feet on, is now nothing more than a shrine of sorts. Buried here are some of the most legendary names in the world of wrestling, figures who attained almost a mythical status even as their sport, kushti or mud wrestling slowly faded away from public memory.

But the legacy of the ‘Bholu Brothers’, Pakistan’s most famous wrestling family, is set for a revival after a gap of almost 22 years, courtesy Japanese great Antonio Inoki. Inoki who fought with Jhara pehlwan

Jhara Wrestler

Jhara (Left), Inoki (Right)

Jimmy Pehlwan (Right top row)

Shahid Pehlwan (L), Siddique Pehlwan (R)

Top Row from L (Allah Bakash Pehlwan, Hassan Bakash Pehlwan , Lala Pehlwan)

Top Row from Left ( Majid Pehlwan, Meena Pehlwan, Chiragh Pehlwan)
Bottom Row from Left (Allah Bakash Pehlwan, Hassan Bakash Pehlwan , Lala Pehlwan)

From Left ( Khalifa Pehlwan, Bila Pehlwan, Kabru Pehlwan)

From left (Ali Pehlwan, Nomi Pehlwan, Yousaf Petian wala)

top row from Left (Malu Pehlwan son of Shahian Pehlwan, Bilu Pehlwan, Goga Pehlwan)
Bottom Row from left (Khoya wala, Khalifa pehlwan & Goga Pehlwan)

Ikram Pehlwan

Pola Pehlwan

Abid Pehlwan & Jhara Pehlwan

Bengali Baluch (2004)

It was 2004; I graduated this year from Engineering University Lahore. I also got my first Job this year in DG Khan Cement factory up gradation project. The factory located 40 kilometers from Dera Ghazi Khan City a totally barren area. The queries the source of limestone further located 9 kilometer from factory in barren mountains. The blasted stone transported to factory through motorized conveyors running. Our scope of work at this up gradation project was quite large, but unfortunately, we were only three technical staff members deputed at site by our company. One was my boss and other was a local sub-engineer. The DG cement site is less than 60 kilometers from Baluchistan also the whole community living nearby the factory is Balouch. At that time, there was also no mobile network working on factory premises. I remembered, I used to stand on top of 70 meter tall pre-heater structure and look around the wide barren vista. 
Prior to this job, I spent my whole life in Lahore. It was also good and new experience for me to learn Balouchi customs. The stories of their rivalries, the stories of hardships given by Balouch Sardars to their Peoples, the offensive events coming during building of DG Khan cement factory; their marriage systems, in which one never able to get married unless in return he give hand of any girl to bride from his family; their religion knowledge, maximum Balouch living in mountains offer namaz with only reciting Bism Allah. They ate only twice in a day. Balouchi’s, having thin arms dark eyes and week bones due to less diet. They love their dress and walking with carrying Weapons. I remembered I fired first time in my life from Kalashnikov that owned by Balouch labor mate.
Well the real story start from here I was deputed at query site for supervising construction works of a new conveyors and machine foundations far from factory premises. I was all alone with a driver and crew of labors close to Baluchistan border. This was totally a un-habitat area where you could find nothing except the barren mountains. Among my labor crew there was a boy, who looks different then Balouchi’s, all other labor called him “Bengali”. The curiosity started in my mind, why they called him this. He was a simple and humble boy, other labor try to steal his food or make jokes but he used to stay calm. I asked from others why you called him with this name. They told her mother is Bengali. In my experience Baluchi labor were lazy and try to use hundred of excuses to escape from work. That boy was different he was hardworking giving hundred percent and also stay focus on work. I stayed at least one and half year in DG Khan cement factory but never seen there a single Balouchi women.
Well, the other day at lunch time, I saw a middle aged women standing at site with that Bengali boy. She was mother of him and brought some food for him. It was lunch time there were no other labors at site. That Bengali Boy introduced me to her mother, “Mom he is my sb”. My surprise was reached to peak when her mother spoken with me in Urdu and said, ‘’Salam, please take care of my son, others steal his food. He is innocent and cannot fight with them’’. I asked how she know Urdu. She replied, ‘’I born in Bangladesh, I came to Karachi for work but they sell me. Then, I was sold to Sindh and many other places and then the father of Bengali boy kidnapped her from Multan and married her and she has now this son. Her husband also turned old now and cannot work.”
She brought roti made of rice for his son. She also offered half of this to me. It has noodle like taste. I feel sad for her how human badly treated as animal for money. I promised her that nobody will steal his son food or tease him anymore. I remained at that project more than one and half year, in remaining period I used to call that boy, “Bengali Balouch”………

Akrand Cliff Fort (2012)

Akrand is a cliff fort located in  midway of Khabeki village and Khanati garden. I  saw this site in 2012, while travelling towards Khanati gardens. According to archaeologists this fort  is around 5 to 6 thousand years old. No exact history is available. I read Potsherds were collected from the site. On the top of the hill there is a wide-open field dotted with stone-built one-room rectangular compartments. Some graves were also found in Akrand. This site has not been inhabited since last many centuries. The geographical coordinated of the fort are 32° 39.462'N and 72° 15.777'E.

NUSRAT KHAN TOMB LAHORE

January 2015

Nawab Nusrat Khan alias Khawaja Sabir belonged to a distinguished family of nobles and received the title of Khan-e-Dauran from Shah Jahan. He died at Lahore in 1659 and the present mausoleum was raised to his memory by Aurangzeb.

My Journey of Two years for getting permission to visit this Tomb:-

Two years back, I was searching the list of Tombs present in Lahore. Most of them, I had seen in the past, and I at least know their locations. Then there was a name came in front of me, “Nusrat Khan Tomb”. I had never heard about it and also did not know about its location or see any of its pictures. I thought it might be vanished in past and maybe some ruined exists of it. The only information which I got on the internet was that it was located a few kilometers from Kokaltash’s tomb. At that time, I did not have any idea that it is inside the grounds of the carriage shop. So the search begins after my office work, I reached Kokaltash's tomb and asked locals if there was any tomb there. There were very funny and interesting answers. Someone was telling me about Mian Mir Tomb and someone speaking to me about Madhu Lal Tomb. Then I reached the Chabacha stop there was a railway line coming out of the carriage railway workshop. A few railway policemen were standing there, I also inquired about their directions from them. They were not sure about the name but they told me the same structures as Kokaltash also exist inside the carriage workshop but it was used as Mosque and they did not know if was there any grave inside. So at last the mystery is solved. I asked them how to visit there. They told me to come at early 8 in the morning and take permission from the inspector railway deputed at Railway Carriage. The next morning, I reached there and meet the inspector. There was quite an interesting conversation. Firstly I told him the reason for my visit. He answered no tomb existed inside. Secondly, he questioned, do I visit there for making a documentary film? He again questioned, you look like an educated guy are you preparing a report for some organization? I wanted to explain to him I have a passion to explore historical architecture but I could not able to convince him. When I was about to leave he smiled and advised take a promise from headquarters or bring some media card with me, you might get permission.

I was not disheartened in fact I got more anxious to visit it. The second attempt was discussing this site with one of my friends Syed Faizan also known as Lahore ka koji. He tried to get permission but it was also in vain. 

Thirdly I asked one of my friends and my table tennis coach as well Masood Ali, who plays table tennis for Pakistan railways to grant me permission from headquarters. He asked seniors but they told him the site is prohibited to visit as the area is sensitive.

I also asked one of my friends, who is an editor in a renowned newspaper. But he also failed to get permission.

After so many failed attempts, I again asked a few of my friends who have a passion for history and architecture like me. But none of them were able to get permission to visit.

Last, after two years when I visited all the tombs of Lahore, I found a way how could I visit this last tomb a tricky way but it works. Someone told me to meet the railway worker union president. I found him and told him the reason for the meeting. He was not willing at first but I offered him a handsome fee for his great generous services :P. After a few weeks, he called me that I can come in the morning but I am not allowed to bring a DSLR camera with me. Well, I did not listen the next day I was there with a camera bag and two mobile cameras as well for Plan B. luckily at the entrance they did not check my bag I have only two or three minutes to see the great architecture. I took a few shots all around, absorb the site in my mind, and left the place with a feeling of accomplishment.

Location

Nusrat Khan's tomb is located at a distance of approximately ½ mile northwest of Zafar Jang Kokaltash's tomb in thegrounds of Carriage and Wagon Shops of Pakistan Railways. It can be reached by traveling north on Mughalpura Road until it ends on Workshop Road. Traveling some distance east on Workshop Road, you will reach the Pakistan Railways Carriage and Wagon Shops gate on your right. The tomb lies hidden deep within the grounds of the Carriage and Wagon Shops and is inaccessible to the general public due to the security requirements of the Pakistan Railways.

Construction

The tomb is a massive structure, built entirely of small Lahori bricks without the use of stone or Kashi Kari. The octagonal mausoleum stands in the center of a platform of octagonal shape which is now covered with grass. The building has an ornamental niche decoration on its façade and pigeon-holes in a schematic way on its dome. The double shell dome is raised over a circular drum. There is clear evidence of a tendency towards the evolution of a bulbous dome. The monotony of the circular drum is broken by rectangular panels set back slightly. On the eastern side, the drum has been pierced with a small window giving an entry to the cavity between the two shells.

At the top of the dome, there can be seen the remains of a lotus base for a pinnacle that is no longer extant. The building is surmounted by turrets of much elegance and beauty. Many of them survive to this day, however; the domes have fallen off of a few of them. The interior was decorated with paintings of different colors but unfortunately now has been paint-washed in the traditional colors of the Pakistan Railways, green and yellow. The tomb has been converted to the use of a mosque for the employees of the Carriage and Wagon Shops. Most of the arched entrances have been closed up and metal posts have been used to support a tin roof over a portion of the first story.

Historical Background

The tomb suffered extensive damage during the reign of Ranjit Singh when the marble embellishments were removed. The tomb was also used as a private residence by General Court, a member of Ranjit Singh's army. General Court added many rooms to the building but they had all been destroyed by the early 1890s except three arches in the upper story to the west. It was further damaged during the British time when it was turned into a hall room for military officers. The structure came to be called Gumbad Bijjar-wala on the account of people from the Bijjar tribe having lived in it after the collapse of the Sikh government.

Remains of Mughal Era Bridge in Lahore (2015)

While driving on ring road Lahore there comes an interchange named Mehmood boti. Mehmood booti interchange is hardly 20 minutes drive from Lahore international airport. Ring road (previously known as band road) was constructed around Lahore for protection of floods from river Ravi. On north side of this interchange you can see green fields. Over the period of time Ravi has changed its route and now flows at least 8 kilometer from this interchange. Couple of decades ago I have seen the highest peak flood of my life here, when Ravi was just few meters down from top level of ring road.  Hardly two kilometers from this interchange exists the remains of old flow of river.  This is the source of sand supply to Lahore. The area is very less populated and once was the biggest hide out of notorious criminals. Few years back nobody dare to enter the area even in daylight.

The old route of Ravi has left a sort of canyons which is 30, 40 ft down from normal ground level.  Rain water trap there for days converting into marshy land. You can also found variety of birds there which are almost extinct in city.

My younger brother along with me hikes in this area once or twice a year in winters.  In last hike my brother was alone found strange pillars like structures. When he returned back home he shared details with me and insisted to also give a visit.

I visited the site and surprised to see the pillar like round structures which are 12ft high and 46 ft in circumference. They were constructed with nanakshahi bricks. There are more than 12 in number with atleast 7 in good shape. Being a civil engineer by profession; my first impression was that these are pillars of some mughal era bridge.

We took pictures and posted them on face book. Interestingly renowned historian and travel writer Salman Rashid seen the post and called me that he wanted to see the site. We both brother took him there. He was also amazed that how this site escape from the world for so many years.The structure most likely was built in the reign of Jehangir or Shahjahan. This bridge was built for the Grand Trunk Road so that there would be access from Lahore to Delhi.The structure opens in a sandy area where there is no access to the road and only tractors and trolleys can make their way to it