A Neglected 400 year old Mughal Era Bridge near KOT Pindi Das

 November 16, 2015

 

The Ravi River, originating from Indian-Occupied Kashmir, is joined by five major tributaries: Ujh, Bein, Basantar, Deg, and Hudiara. Interestingly, all except Hudiara, which is referred to as Hudiara Drain, are now called nullahs. The largest among them is Deg Nullah, stretching 256 km in length and covering a catchment area of 730 km².

Throughout history, Deg Nullah has maintained its significance to this day. In the 1620s, during the reign of Sheikhu, it posed a formidable obstacle for his royal entourage, with its banks swelling due to the ferocity of monsoons. More recently, Deg Nullah witnessed the largest tank battles since the Second World War during the 1965 conflict. Even today, it retains military importance as it divides the Shakargarh salient, which protrudes into Indian-Occupied Kashmir and holds significant strategic implications.

Every corner of our country holds within it thousands of years of history, and the seemingly insignificant Deg Nullah is one such uncelebrated and silent geographical entity. Renowned travel writer Sir Salman Rasheed visited this place a few years ago and shared its historical narrative:

"In the late monsoon of 1620, Emperor Jehangir and his court were encamped at Jehangirabad. October had arrived, yet the monsoon showed no signs of subsiding. As the court prepared to return to Lahore, the rains persisted, pouring down with great intensity.

The Degh River, originating from the hills near Jammu, flows past Sialkot and joins the Ravi south of Lahore, standing between Jehangir's hunting lodge and the city. As the royal caravan approached its banks, they discovered a raging, muddy torrent, impossible to cross even on elephants. For four days, the royal court was stranded until the saturated tents became unbearable for the king and his family.

To prevent future hold-ups on the Degh, Jehangir ordered the construction of a bridge across the otherwise fordable river. To this day, the bridge stands, connecting the village of Kot Pindi Das to the Lahore-Sheikhupura high road.

The bridge consists of two separate structures, around thirty meters apart. The southern structure features two arches, while the main structure is asymmetrical, with a central arch flanked by two smaller arches on one side and one on the other. Unfortunately, the once pristine Degh River, now polluted with untreated waste from the factories of Kala Shah Kaku, flows beneath the bridge, emitting a foul odor.

Thirty years after its construction, in October 1652, Shah Jehan faced a similar situation to his father. The rains persisted, causing the Degh to flood. This time, the floodwaters rose so high that even the bridge was submerged. Once again, the royal camp was forced to halt for four days, as some members of the forward party were swept away by the torrent."

Having planned to visit this site long ago, I was fortunate enough to finally make the journey last Sunday. Located near the village of Kot Pindi Das, roughly 10 km from the University of Engineering Technology Lahore Kala Shah Kaku campus, reaching the site involved traversing dirt roads that wind through the village. The condition of the bridge is currently deteriorating, with significant cracks appearing under the arches, indicating a potential collapse of the entire structure in the near future. Despite its precarious state, the bridge remains operational, with heavy sand-loaded trolleys still crossing it.

This 400-year-old bridge, constructed during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, holds immense historical importance. Regrettably, neither the government nor the archaeological department has made any effort to rehabilitate or preserve this site. In a matter of years, this significant piece of history will be lost forever, slipping into oblivion.

To forestall a future repeat of the hold up on the Degh, Jehangir ordered the throwing of a bridge across the river that is normally fordable. To this day the bridge spans the river and serves as a connection between the village of Kot Pindi Das and the Lahore-Sheikhupura highroad.

Havelis of Khushal Singh and Dhian Singh also known Asif Jah Haveli

It was the beginning of the year 2013 when I conducted a photo walk to visit various historical places in the walled city of Lahore with my friends. These havelis are part of a cluster of havelis known as Chuna Mandi Havelis, a significant group of historic buildings in the Walled City. It currently houses the Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women. Unfortunately at that time, we could not get permission to visit and have to leave the place through the main doorway; At that time, we have a little glimpse of the inside of Haveli from the entrance, which shows magnificent architecture ahead. The photo walk finished but the desire to visit this place ignited badly inside. I wanted to visit this place, I used all my personal contacts, also wrote a letter to Principle of this college for granting permission for visit; requested a Walled city director, and also asked many senior architecture lovers but all efforts were in vain. Three years passed, and one day I discussed the same with my good friend Maria Waseem, a historian researcher. After an effort of two months, we finally got permission, Special thanks to her and his husband in this regard.

The College building, with its spacious courtyard and Sikh imagery, is sometimes thought to be the famous haveli or Palace of Raja Dhian Singh, the young Rajput chamberlain of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, but is more likely to be the Palace of Jamadar Khushal Singh (d. 1844). Khushal Singh was a humble doorkeeper who later rose to the exalted position of Lord Chamberlain of Ranjit Singh. Khushal Singh may well have built upon earlier Mughal remains. The large expanse of the compound and the existence of a garden, along with some other pre-Sikh remains, indicate the existence of a large Mughal mansion. This could be the palace of Asaf Khan, brother of Empress Noor Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan. Asaf Khan was an arbiter of taste, and historical sources credit him with building a luxurious palace in Lahore which had cost an exorbitant 20 lakhs at the time. Another haveli in the group, located in the north, also sports a courtyard. It was built by Teja Singh, nephew of Jamadar Khushal Singh. The third extant structure, located on the east of the cluster is considerably smaller in size.

Not long after British annexation, the haveli was fitted up as the first place of public worship for the Christian garrison stationed in the fort and continued to be utilized as such until the tomb of Anarkali began to be employed for divine service in 1851. At this time the palace served as Government District School. Later, as is well known. Government College made its beginning in this building when classes were begun by the first principal of the College, Dr. G. Leitner on January 1, 1864. It was in 1877 when the new college campus was constructed that the haveli was vacated and fell into desolation until its recent restoration.

Seeing the magnificent haveli, one can well believe that its owner must have spent a pretty penny on it. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is as alive today as it was in its days of glory. Instead of being kept under lock and key, it is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to constructive use.

In fact, the college has put its premises to such fascinating use that it is not surprising to find students sitting in a math class that is bang next to a royal bath, or climbing up a dark turret that would lead them to their department. Jharokas and arched niches in the wall make for cozy and picturesque sitting arrangements where girls either partake of a snack or browse over their books. The school canteen, rather than being tucked away in some obscure corner is located right under the main entrance of the mansion, while the computer classroom and lecture hall are in the basement.

What’s more, the rooftops allow a quaint vista of the old city so that you can spot the Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque and even the Minar-e-Pakistan if you climb right to the top. It is no wonder that the haveli is fast gaining popularity as an ideal venue for Basant celebrations.

But, what is most heartening to know is that the heritage site is being properly looked after. Conservation work on the haveli was carried out by the Lahore Development Authority before it was converted into a college.

One does wish though that it could be made accessible to more people, for by and large it is bypassed by tourists visiting Lahore.

Remnant of Arched Gateway of Nadira Begum Garden

14-06-2015

In the farthest suburbs of Lahore, was a community known as Mian Mir, named for the famous Sufi saint buried there in 1635. The Mian Mir area acquired special spiritual significance for the Mughal dynasty during the governorship of Prince Dara Shikoh, who sought advice from Mulla Shah, a disciple of Mian Mir. Over time, the sites established in the Mian Mir area achieved a remarkable synthesis of Mughal and Sufi traditions.

Further east, on the axis, is the tank and tomb of Nadira Begum the wife of Mughal Prince Dara Shikoh.

A few years back, I had trotter shoes on my feet. I was always in search of lost, neglected historical architectural sites in Lahore; and when I came to know about them, I could not able to sleep comfortably up till I visit that place. I don’t know, I have a strange relationship and love with these edifices. In fact, I found inner peace in myself after exploring them.

A few years back, I came to know about this place from one of my friends Syed Faizan Naqvi, who is a native of this area. This is a 12 ft high tall arched gateway and bricks laid there were of Mughal era masonry pattern. I took the coordinates of this site and mapped it on Google Earth and found that this site is located hardly 0.2 kilometers from Mian Mir Tomb on its North West axis. After discussing it with a few of my historian friends, I came to the conclusion that this gateway entrance must be part of Mian Mir and Nadira Begum  Garden.

The structure is really in bad condition and maybe fall in a few years and vanish forever. 

Remnant of Bhairav ka asthan, Ichra

Lahore is ever expanding, mercilessly eating away any village or town that comes in its way. Many towns and villages like Niaz Beg, Hanjarwal, etc, which were historically well outside the city are now deemed as part of Lahore. However, even after being incorporated by the phenomenon that is Lahore, such places have managed to retain their past, culture and identity as something that is different from the city itself, and that is what makes this new city of Lahore so interesting and endearing. Whereas most of these settlements do not predate Lahore and were never historically as significant as Lahore, there was nonetheless one such locality, which is believed to have existed even before Lahore did. Its significance chronologically exceeds that of Lahore. This town is Ichhra.

In the popular culture Lahore’s origin is tied to the Hindu mythologies. There are historians who argue that before the walled city of Lahore became Lahore, Lahore actually was the locality of Ichhra. A very interesting observation is presented to substantiate the thesis. Mostly what we find in the appellations of the doors of a walled city is that the gates are named after the city which they face. The Delhi darwaza of Lahore is named so because it faces Delhi, so is the case with the Kashmiri darwaza. There has been some controversy regarding the name of the Lohari darwaza. It is argued that the Lohari darwaza points towards Ichhra. Lohari could be a primeval name of Lahore in this case, and Ichhra would be that historical city of Lahore.

This is a plausible contention according to the British Gazetteer of Lahore, because they argue that two of the oldest Hindu temples are found in Ichhra, viz. Bheeru da asthan and Chand Raat. Sadly, the latter has been lost but the former still looks over the city. However, the question that arises is that on what premises the British say that this temple is one of the oldest temples. The architecture of the building does not suggest this nor do the folk tales.

The temple is on the Ferozepur road behind the Shama stop. In fact the Shama and the Sheesh Mahal cinemas stand today where once the huge pond of the temple was. According to Maulana Noor Ahmad Chishti, there once lived a man called Godar during the tenure of Shah Jahan. He used to handle the accounts for Dara Shikoh, the eldest son of the Emperor at Benaras. When the prince had an auditor analyze the accounts, it was learned that the accountant had been stealing from the treasury. On this the prince gave the man capital punishment. Legend has that as Godar lay in the prison waiting for his turn to go to the gallows, a man appeared before him. This man asked him to close his eyes and he did as he was told. When he opened his eyes, he found himself at the exact location where today the tall, cone-shaped structure stands. It was a Sunday. The man who had brought Godar here, was sitting on a camel and he was standing next to him. In utter amazement, he asked the man who he was? The man replied that he was Bheeru after which he disappeared.

Bheeru is derived from the Sanskrit word of Bherv, which means Bogey-man. Bheeru is an incarnation of the Lord Shiv-Rudar, who is the Hindu deity of destruction. Shiv-Rudar travels on a dog, and the fear that he excites is such that even the witches and the ghosts are afraid of him. He is usually found near the cremating grounds.

Godar was a follower of Bheeru, and after the miracle, he demarcated the spot, where Bheeru stood, and started his search in the city. He ended up at Shah Alami, where he started living near the Pari Mahal. After adjusting in the new city, he one day gathered a few Hindus and took them to the spot. There he narrated to them the story of Bheeru, after which the spot became known as Bheeru da asthan. He along with other followers made it a regular practice to visit the spot, and present it with garlands, as a token of their reverence. In this way seeds were sown for this place to become a site for one of the most sacred Hindu temples in Lahore.

Later, during the tenure of Ranjit Singh, the mother of his concubine Mora once fell sick. She was diagnosed to have been affected by djinns. Mora was informed that one of the descendants of Godar practiced magic, and he would be able to rid the body of the intruders. According to tradition, she summoned him, and he was able to cure her mother. As a reward for his services, Mora ordered all the villages that were granted to her by the Regal to bring forth a cart of bricks for the construction of a proper temple at the asthan of Bheeru. Bricks from all the hundred villages that fell under her sway came forth. Besides the bricks the total expense for the construction of the present day temple was around 1400 rupees. This temple was further extended by Ram Chandar, the nephew of Sanwal Mal, who was a minister of the Ranjit Government. Besides him contributions were also given by Raja Lal Singh.

There is a big main gate which is followed by a corridor for the entrance to the edifice. At the end of the corridor is another gate. The corridor is around 3 yards wide and 13 yards long. It is embellished by arches on both the ends. Flanking the entrance are rooms. A ground used to follow the entrance whose dimensions were recorded to be 17 x 11 yards. Now however the ground has been taken over by refugees from the other side of the border and new houses have sprouted everywhere. This corridor was added by Raja Lal Singh.

The area east from here was the Langar Khana, where people were given free food. In front of this is the octagonal platform upon which the temple stands. There was also a well next to it. On each side of the temple are arches (mehraab like structures). East from here is another enclosed place where now houses stand. There is a big door here that opens towards the temple. Next to it is a platform where there are 8 samadhis. During the riots following the Babri mosque incident in Ayodha, like other temples in Lahore, people tried to bring this temple down too, but since it was made of strong material, it luckily survived.

Even though the story of Godar is hard to believe there is no doubt that the present day shape of the temple was given to it during the tenure of Ranjit Singh. One plausible reason as to why this temple is called ancient by the British is that the spot where the temple now stands must have been the site of a primordial temple, which has now given way to a modern construction. It is said that a lump of mud signified the holy place before the temple, making it reasonable to believe that some sort of building existed here before this one, and later on the story of Godar was explained for the inception of the temple.
(Copied from Haroon Khalid)