The North East Sirkhata Pass, Supat Valley Kohistan

While sleeping at night on first day campsite, the only thing which came in my mind was to return back from here. Earlier, we had faced bad attitude of porters, unfriendly behavior of Gujjar’s, unavailability of bread in villages and most of all, the unplanned glacier road blockage. Our four team members have already returned back on day one. Among them, one of our team members Tanwir Jogi got seriously ill because of diarrhea and have to return back to Soch village, even before the start of trek. Everything bad was happening with us. 

On second day morning, when I opened my eyes, I saw five out of eight of our team members were preparing to return back from here. They did not wanted to waste more days on this journey. I asked from Rashid bhi a friend of mine from Faisalabad and my brother Salman what we should do now. Would, we go further from here or also returned back with rest. Both asked me whatever decision has to be taken, that need to be carried out by me and they will be agreed on it. Salman came to me and said, at least we should gave a try and let the other members returned. He further said, It might be happened that we could never able to visit this place again in our lives. I decided we three will continue the journey ahead. We revised our plan and decided to attempt North east pass for entering Sirkhata valley. This pass was earlier discussed with me by one of the icon of mountaineering Ahmed Mujtaba. According to him it is tough one. From top of this mountain pass there are three further routes extends: one extends towards Manusar Lake the other one enters into upstream of Jalkot nala valley and third one which we have attempted was upstream of Sirkhata valey..

A pictorial representation of our journey from camp-1 to Sirkhata north east pass is available in this album.

Sirkhata Lake Kohistan

In this picture we both brothers were sitting on upstream of Sirkhata Lake with Kohistani Shepherds, the valley situated deep inside the Kohistan where there is no internet, approach roads and telephonic connection. Sirkhata Lake is one of the biggest lake of Kohistan. A gem of place.

It took us two days of tough hike to reach this place in which we also have to cross an unnamed pass which was situated above 4300 meters; there is a kilometer long snow patch at top. My friend as you know trekking is not only exploring new places, it also helps you to understand the culture and behavior of local peoples. Before visiting this place we have heard so many false stories about Kohistan. The security threats, strict religious views and so many more negative things related to area. You can see us in trousers, when we reached this village all villagers came out of their houses to receive us. Every adult and kid of the village embraced with us took our luggage on their shoulders and gave us place in their Bathak (meet up place). We were dead tired and the next treatment which we received that could not be described in words. The oldest man of the village came and sits beside us and he started massaging our legs and shoulder. We tried to stop him but he said no you’re our guest and came from so far. We requested them to give some place to pitch our camps. But one of villagers took us to their home, gave us warm blankets, pillows, it was such a treatment that we are sitting at home. The brought warm goat milk with bread for us, it was very energetic and tasty. After this they also served us with tea. At night, it started raining and  got freezing cold.  I was talking with my brother Salman and Rashid bhi (our trekking member from faislabad) why they are so many negative stories about Kohistan? Were we sitting on some other place? We all three were smiling on this topic.

Next day we got up early in the morning, before leaving everybody again came to meet with us. Earlier night Salman distribute candies among children’s. Every Children eyes were glittering with expression of thanks.  I asked the local, I will share their hospitality and love with my friends of trekking community and Inshallah we will brought more tourist here.In coming years this place will replace Naran and Kaghan…#promote #tourism in #kohistan

Sangni Fort

Another visiting place which needs the attention of the Government is strong fort of Sangni. It is still behind the eyes of many Pakistanis. Most of the peoples must not hear the name of Sangni fort. It is a construction of Mughal’s era and situated just 75 kilo meter away from the Islamabad. It was constructed in the Mughal Empire.

Some tribe member of Mughals built this for but later on Sikh community used it for them. The Mughal tribe so many forts in the subcontinent and there are a large number of them still exists perfectly. Local community lives in this place like the Pharwala fort and Rohtas fort. This place is now used by the local community for their needs and purposes. The tomb of Hazrat Abdul Hakim (a Sufi Saint) also exists in the premises of this fort. He lived nearby it and spent his whole life over there.

'A beautiful Mosque is also there to tell you the glory of Muslims. It is one of the well preserved parts of this Sangni fort. This fort is the only structure on this hill and nothing could be found around it. It takes you way back into the past and provides you a great look of the surrounding areas. One could reach there by using a dirt road. The length of this dirt road is 25 kilo meter from the Grand Trunk Road (G.T Road) from Rawalpindi to Lahore.

This is such a nice place which requires the attention of Government and Travel and Tourism Corporation of Pakistan. They must take some steps to promote tourism in this area and make a solid road for the sake of visitors. Just few efforts from them could make this place a heaven for the visitors. This place is easily accessible from the Capital of Pakistan where allot of foreigners visit.

BEDI MAHAL AND STORY OF MOHINDER P SINGH

May 19, 2016

One of my friends Adnan Alam Awan shared a status on his Facebook timeline, it was a message sent to him by an Indian citizen named Mohinder P Singh. Mohinder was born in Kallar Sayedaan district Rawalpindi present now in Pakistan before the partition of united Hindustan till 1947. 

Hi Dear Adnan Alam Awan,

I belong to Kallar Sayedaan , Dist. Rawalpindi. I saw some pic of you from Kallar Sayeddan. We lived in Chadian da mohalla, behind the Fort of the Bedi family. there is a big fort and Damdama Sahib in it. My father’s name was Chowdhry Santokh Singh. He was a known figure any old person can tell about him. I am interested if I can get a pic of the house where we lived. Only some old person of Kallar Sayedan can tell. Hope u can help me in this. Thanks

Mohinder P Singh

New Delhi, India”

I was at Kallar Sayden just two days before seeing this post If I read this before there was a possibility that I might able to find the ancestral home of Mohinder P Singh. Though a lot has been changed now in Kallar Sayden, except the historic Bedi Mahal no pre-partition building has been left. 

My purpose for the visit to Kallar Sayden was to capture one of the marvelous Haveli of the Sikh Era i.e. Khem Singh Bedi’s haveli also known as Bedi Mehal.

Khem Singh Bedi’s haveli is located in Kallar Syedan and is a remarkably attractive structure. It exudes calmness, still standing tall in the face of years of change.

  

The haveli was turned into a school for boys after 1947 and was still functional till about 10 years ago. The school since has moved to another location, but in the years that it was used as a school the staff and the children had taken reasonable care not to deface its heritage value.

In this magnificent haveli, one can still see paintings of Sikh Gurus and Hindu deities. This includes a painting of Baba Sri Chand who was the eldest son of Guru Nanak.

Most of the rooms in Khem Singh Bedi’s haveli are adorned with paintings. Paintings of Sikh women bundled with jewelry looking in a mirror or holding an arrow. There is also a colorful painting depicting the golden temple in Amritsar. For those who don’t know, the golden temple is a holy site for Sikhs.

Khem Singh Bedi was a notable of his time and one of the leaders that began the Singh Sabha movement in the late 19th century.

The haveli he built is made of red brick and has 22 rooms and three basements. As mentioned, most of the rooms have beautiful frescos, paintings, and carved woodwork.

The Haveli has a focal yard with oriels and corridors that lead to galleries, wooden doors, and amazing fireplaces. The roof can be accessed via a spiral staircase and gives a serene view of the whole town. 

The haveli inner architecture is quite similar to Nounehal Singh haveli and Dhian Singh haveli situated in Lahore

Khem Singh Bedi himself, however, cannot be considered a patriot. History tells us that Khem Singh was instrumental in helping the British in crushing the 1857 Indian rebellion in Gugera, a town close to Okara.