Tuesday 16 August 2016

The North West Sirkhata Pass, Supat Valley Kohistan

After two days of tough hike on a steep ascent; at last we reached to Sirkhata Lake. In this hike, we also have crossed an unnamed mountain pass which was above 4300 meter in height. This pass located in north-east direction of Sirkhata Lake.

The next question for us was to decide which route we should opt for returning back. We got three options; first, was to be choosing the same trek from which, we had descended down the earlier day to this valley; i.e. the north east mountain pass but that doesn’t end up at Supat Pass and we wanted to see that as well. Also that trek was quite tough and the last portion of this pass was too steep, it was difficult to climb this portion in snow without having proper gear. 

Second option was to trek up to Shames village and then hike on jeep road up to Supat top. According to locals it is a lengthier route and would take a full day to reach Supat top. Even reaching Shames village would take three to four hours from Sirkhata Lake. Before going to this trek I have checked Shames village altitude on Google Earth, it was around 3400 meter and from there going to Supat top was something a hike of 9 km in which we again have to gain an altitude of 1000 meter. So we left the idea of going on this route as well. 



Locals insist us to choose a third option a shorter route for our return, that was a mountain pass run in North West direction of upstream of Sirkhata Lake. We were little afraid for choosing this ‘mountain route pass’ at first, because earlier day the mountain pass which we have crossed in north-west direction was full covered in snow and there were portions where snow was very hard and unfortunately because of not having proper snow gear, I slipped there four times. 



We came to know that a day before our arrival a villager have crossed this pass to enter in valley. He was the first one to do so in this season, he told us though the pass is totally covered in snow but the condition of snow was not hard. So his words gave us confidence to choose this route.



Next day we got up early in the morning, we started our trek around 6:30 a.m., The weather was clear in the morning. Kohastani’s have interesting and hospitable customs. Before leaving everybody again came to meet with us. Earlier night Salman distribute candies among children’s. Every Children eye was glittering with expression of thanks. Also some Villagers hold our luggage and came with us for some distance and then say goodbye to us this is there tradition. We don’t have words of thanks for love and care shown to us by Sirkhata villagers. 



We started hiking upstream of Sirkhata Lake along the small glacial streams. After hiking for one hour, a never ending glacier has started, initially for next 30 minutes the slope on glacier was gradual, than again the tough steep ascent started that was also all covered in snow. We reached at first ridge the height there was around 4300 meter. Still there was no sign of pass, we again started hiking and reached another mountain top but was also not pass. We were standing in different world it was vast mountain pasture all covered in snow. There was feeling in the mind at that time that we were standing in Antarctica, because the white was the only color we could see in all four directions.
Now we could see a mountain series running in west direction, but still our porters were not sure about the actual direction of pass. It was almost five hours that we have left Sirkhata Lake. We did not meet any other human in our way, a panic start creeping, both Salman and me watching each other faces and asked the porters in nervousness where is the pass? The answer was of more desperation, “Sir, I will not tell a lie with you, I am not from this area, I am not sure about the Pass.” 





We could see a mountain range running on our west side, but it is almost impossible to cross this in this season without proper maintaining gear. Among this series there was a ridge which was of lower height. Salman GPS knowledge helped at that time, he confirmed that only this could be the respective mountain pass. It looks almost a straight wall of more than 30 meter height covered in snow. We sent one of our porters first at top; he asked us to wait, He still was not confirmed at last he saw a human some 200 meters down on other side and he started shouting, “Come up”. It was moment of relief. It was a straight climb, thanks to our porters that we able to reach at top without having any proper maintaining gear. 


The scene from top were amazing, we could see a snow covered Supat & Maheen top from there.
Our journey still not end, we have to descend down from this pass and have to trek on snow againto reach Supat top






























The North East Sirkhata Pass, Supat Valley Kohistan



While sleeping at night on first day campsite, the only thing which came in my mind was to return back from here. Earlier, we had faced bad attitude of porters, unfriendly behavior of Gujjar’s, unavailability of bread in villages and most of all, the unplanned glacier road blockage. Our four team members have already returned back on day one. Among them, one of our team members Tanwir Jogi got seriously ill because of diarrhea and have to return back to Soch village, even before the start of trek. Everything bad was happening with us. 


On second day morning, when I opened my eyes, I saw five out of eight of our team members were preparing to return back from here. They did not wanted to waste more days on this journey. I asked from Rashid bhi a friend of mine from Faisalabad and my brother Salman what we should do now. Would, we go further from here or also returned back with rest. Both asked me whatever decision has to be taken, that need to be carried out by me and they will be agreed on it. Salman came to me and said, at least we should gave a try and let the other members returned. He further said, It might be happened that we could never able to visit this place again in our lives. I decided we three will continue the journey ahead. We revised our plan and decided to attempt North east pass for entering Sirkhata valley. This pass was earlier discussed with me by one of the icon of mountaineering Ahmed Mujtaba. According to him it is tough one. From top of this mountain pass there are three further routes extends: one extends towards Manusar Lake the other one enters into upstream of Jalkot nala valley and third one which we have attempted was upstream of Sirkhata valey..

A pictorial representation of our journey from camp-1 to Sirkhata north east pass is available in this album.

















Monday 15 August 2016

Sirkhata Lake Kohistan

In this picture we both brothers were sitting on upstream of Sirkhata Lake with Kohistani Shepherds, the valley situated deep inside the Kohistan where there is no internet, approach roads and telephonic connection. Sirkhata Lake is one of the biggest lake of Kohistan. A gem of place.



It took us two days of tough hike to reach this place in which we also have to cross an unnamed pass which was situated above 4300 meters; there is a kilometer long snow patch at top. My friend as you know trekking is not only exploring new places, it also helps you to understand the culture and behavior of local peoples. Before visiting this place we have heard so many false stories about Kohistan. The security threats, strict religious views and so many more negative things related to area. You can see us in trousers, when we reached this village all villagers came out of their houses to receive us. Every adult and kid of the village embraced with us took our luggage on their shoulders and gave us place in their Bathak (meet up place). We were dead tired and the next treatment which we received that could not be described in words. The oldest man of the village came and sits beside us and he started massaging our legs and shoulder. We tried to stop him but he said no you’re our guest and came from so far. We requested them to give some place to pitch our camps. But one of villagers took us to their home, gave us warm blankets, pillows, it was such a treatment that we are sitting at home. The brought warm goat milk with bread for us, it was very energetic and tasty. After this they also served us with tea. At night, it started raining and  got freezing cold.  I was talking with my brother Salman and Rashid bhi (our trekking member from faislabad) why they are so many negative stories about Kohistan? Were we sitting on some other place? We all three were smiling on this topic.

Next day we got up early in the morning, before leaving everybody again came to meet with us. Earlier night Salman distribute candies among children’s. Every Children eyes were glittering with expression of thanks.  I asked the local, I will share their hospitality and love with my friends of trekking community and Inshallah we will brought more tourist here.In coming years this place will replace Naran and Kaghan…#promote #tourism in #kohistan



Friday 3 June 2016

Sangni Fort

Another visiting place which needs the attention of the Government is strong fort of Sangni. It is still behind the eyes of many Pakistanis. Most of the peoples must not hear the name of Sangni fort. It is a construction of Mughal’s era and situated just 75 kilo meter away from the Islamabad. It was constructed in the Mughal Empire.

Some tribe member of Mughals built this for but later on Sikh community used it for them. The Mughal tribe so many forts in the subcontinent and there are a large number of them still exists perfectly. Local community lives in this place like the Pharwala fort and Rohtas fort. This place is now used by the local community for their needs and purposes. The tomb of Hazrat Abdul Hakim (a Sufi Saint) also exists in the premises of this fort. He lived nearby it and spent his whole life over there.











'A beautiful Mosque is also there to tell you the glory of Muslims. It is one of the well preserved parts of this Sangni fort. This fort is the only structure on this hill and nothing could be found around it. It takes you way back into the past and provides you a great look of the surrounding areas. One could reach there by using a dirt road. The length of this dirt road is 25 kilo meter from the Grand Trunk Road (G.T Road) from Rawalpindi to Lahore.

This is such a nice place which requires the attention of Government and Travel and Tourism Corporation of Pakistan. They must take some steps to promote tourism in this area and make a solid road for the sake of visitors. Just few efforts from them could make this place a heaven for the visitors. This place is easily accessible from the Capital of Pakistan where allot of foreigners visit.