After the Construction of Shalimar Garden in the 16th
century, extensive residences, villages, shrines, and tomb gardens began to line the new alignment of the Grand Trunk Road in the
mid-seventeenth century—villages like Kot Khwaja Saeed, Bhogiwal, and Begumpura
(Woman's Town). Begumpura is the most interesting village, in terms of Mughal
gardens, to survive along the Grand Trunk Road between Lahore Fort and Shalimar
garden.
The sites of Begumpura developed over a hundred years from the mid-seventeenth to the mid-eighteenth century.
They include tombs, gardens, gates, walls, wells, mosques, shrines, and
residential Havelis.
The site of the Shalimar Gardens originally
belonged to the Arain Mian Family Baghbanpura. The family was
also given the royal title of 'Mian'
by the Mughal Emperor,
for its services to the Empire. Mian Muhammad Yusuf, then the head of the ArainMian family, gave the site of Ishaq Pura to Emperor Shah Jahan, after
pressure, was placed on the family by the royal engineers who wished to build on
the site due to its good position and soil. In return, Shah Jahan granted the Arain
Mian family governance of the Shalimar Gardens. The Shalimar Gardens remained
under the custodianship of this family for more than 350 years.
I was born and grew up near the Historical
Shalimar Garden of Lahore. I completed my graduation from Engineering
University Lahore which is also located on the premises of Begumpura on Grand Trunk
Road. So love for this area is natural. Since childhood, I am visiting these
gardens, masjids, shrines, and tombs but a desire was always there that I
should explore them, acquire knowledge about their history and plan a group
ride/walk to these areas. Childhood memories have their own special
nostalgia and with time dreams force you to turn them into
reality.
A few years back I started doing research on my
own in this area. My practice was that I use to find the name of the site and then l
try to collect related information about its history. Then I mark the location
on google earth and in end visit the site. I completed my research on this area
long ago.
So on 25th December 2014, I decided to
explore all these sites. I took a friend with me and we visited all these sites
on bicycles. We started our journey from Shalimar Garden.
It was an interesting ride towards history.
1.
MAHABAT KHAN
GARDEN:-
Now dilapidated, this garden was
once among many of the Chahar Bagh Gardens built along the road to Shalimar
Gardens by the Mughal nobility. The garden was originally surrounded by a high
wall of masonry and is situated to the west of the Shalimar Gardens and south
of Baghbanpura. Now, only portions of the surrounding wall remain as much of
the garden has been encroached upon by the local population.
The garden is locally known as "Saithan di Bagheechi". The old
gateway is on the west, and additions were made to the upper story by Parsi
merchants of Bombay who owned it in the late 1800s. A newer gateway was located
to the north, however, only traces of it remain now as most of it has been
replaced by houses surrounding the garden. To the east and south were rooms and
chambers, built of substantial brick-working order but are no longer extant. To
the south was a small mosque, now much renovated.
The garden was built by Mahabt Khan, surnamed Khan-e-Khanan, Yamin-ud-Daula.
His original name was Zamana Beg, and he was the son of Ghyur Beg of Kabul.
Jahangir writes of him in his autobiography, "Zamana Beg son of Ghayur
Beg had gained the dignity of 500, by when I was till Crown Prince. He now (on
my accession), having received the title of Mahabat Khan and a mansab of 1500,
was nominated Paymaster of my household."
In the seventeenth year of the reign of Jahangir, he was appointed
Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army, with a mansab of 7000, and sent against
Shah Jahan whom he defeated near Allahabad. Mahabat Khan died in 1634. At his
death, he held the dignity of Khan-e-Khanan and was head of the military
administration. Shah Jahan made provision for Mahabat Khan's eldest son who
ultimately rose to the Governorship of Kabul and to bear his father’s
title.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh gave the garden to Faqir Aziz-ud-Din, who looked well
after it. On his death, Faqir Charagh-ud-Din, his heir sold it to Jahangirji
& Co., Parsi Merchants.
In the midst of the garden, on a spacious platform (now in ruins), is a grave
of solid masonry which both Chishti and Sarwar ascribe to Mahabat Khan.
2.
JANI KHAN'S TOMB:-
The Tomb of Jani Khan or Khan-i-Khanan
is situated south of the road to Shalimar Gardens and to the southwest of the garden of Mahabat Khan in Baghbanpura. The tomb was likely constructed during
the reign of Mughal Emperor Muhammed Shah or his son Ahmed Shah. The dome is
decorated with porcelain tiles of blue and yellow color. Some of the tile work
is still extant. The pyramidal dome sits atop a low-height neck which is
decorated with pottery work in beautiful floral patterns similar to those seen
on the tomb of Sharf-un-Nisa Begum (Cypress Tomb), built in 1745. The tomb
originally stood in a garden with a beautiful gateway but no trace of them
exists now, the gateway having been dismantled in the late 1800s. Today, the
remaining structure is hidden between some houses on a small plot of land bounded
by a wall. The door to the enclosure is locked but I was able to access the
enclosure by climbing over the wall.
3.
DAI ANGA'S TOMB:-
Zeb-un-Nisa (d. 1672), or Dai
Anga ('wet-nurse' in Urdu), was the wet nurse of Shah Jahan, and the wife of a
courtier under Jahangir. A few paces distant from the Gulabi Bagh gateway, on
the north, lies her splendid mausoleum.
This rather ponderous, square brick structure sporting few apertures and
presenting a solid face to the garden was built to house the mortal remains of
Dai Anga, Shah Jahan's wet nurse, and of her daughter Shahzadi Sultan Begam,
whose husband built the Gulabi Bagh Gateway. It is the same Dai Anga (wife of the Mughal magistrate of Bikaner), who built the spectacular mosque named after
her, situated in the Naulakha area of Central Lahore, in which also tile mosaic decoration is employed with wondrous effect.
Traversing the intervening stretch of corridor-like space since the surrounding garden area has been occupied by various railway structures—you arrive at the rather squat-looking tomb placed on a raised plinth. The mausoleum is dominated
by a low-pitched dome placed on a high neck or drum, while its corners are
accented through the employment of four square pavilion-like kiosks, carrying
projecting chajjas (eaves) and cupolas.
Although shorn of most of its ornamentation, the original Kashi Kari (tile
mosaic) can be noticed on the parapet, which points towards the quality and
kind of tile mosaic that in all likelihood once covered the entire facade.
The mausoleum comprises a central tomb chamber with eight rooms around it.
Internally, the surface was embellished with fine fresco, portions of which are
extant in the squinches above the projecting, beehive-like decorative muqarnas,
along with a starlet dome treatment. The base of the squinches is encircled
with inscriptional panels from the Holy Quran, rendered in elegant calligraphy
by Muhammad Saleh. Inscriptions at the site, reveal that the mausoleum was
constructed in 1671.
The central sepulchral chamber and surrounding rooms are built upon a raised
plinth consisting of subterranean chambers, in which the burials took place.
There are two graves, one of Dai Anga and the other of her daughter Sultana
Begum. Today, the original cenotaphs made of marble are no longer in existence,
and the underground chambers are also inaccessible.
4. BHOOTWALA TOMB/Tomb of Nawab
Zakariya Khan
This tomb is in very bad condition, it is
located near Zakirya khan Mosque and his Mehal for his Queens. The eastern
side of the University of Engineering and Technology was built by Nawab Zakariya
Khan, governor of Lahore. No history could be found about this tomb so I presume this tomb may be of some noble person from his family or maybe it is the tomb of Nawab Zakirya himself.
5.
KHAWAJA MEHMUD'S SHRINE:-
The high dome of the shrine of
Khawaja Mehmud alias Hazrat Eshan is located to the west of Begampura and north
of the University of Engineering the Technology. Khawaja Mehmud was a native of
Bukhara. At age 20, he ventured out of his town after receiving his education
in the royal college and becoming a renowned scholar at young age. On
the way, he made thousands of disciples in Herat, Kabul, and Kandahar. He
came to Kashmir in Akbar's time from where Jahangir took him to Agra. In Shah
Jahan's time, he made Lahore his residence. He laid out his mausoleum in his
own lifetime and upon his death in 1642 was buried here. Wazir Khan, governor
of Lahore under Shah Jahan, held him in high esteem and would spend his
own wealth for the upkeep of the saint's shrine. During the viceroyalty of
Nawab Zakariya Khan, who lived at Begampura, the mausoleum was at the height of
its popularity.
The octagonal building of the tomb is surmounted by a high dome. The entrance
is from the west and stairs provide access to the top of the building. Inside
the tomb, in the center, there is a large platform upon which is the grave of
Khawaja Mehmud. Another grave in the northeast belongs to Baha-ud-Din, son of
Khawaja Mehmud.
West of the mausoleum is a beautiful mosque topped by three domes. The central
dome is larger. The mosque is of the same vintage as the tomb, however, it
has been much renovated of late. During the reign of Ranjit Singh, General
Gulab Singh established his cantonment near the mausoleum and knocked down the
surrounding walls of the tomb enclosure. He filled the mausoleum with the magazine
and removed its marble. Brick-sellers stole the bricks from the courtyard of
the mosque and even the graves themselves.
At the advent of British rule, the mausoleum was cleared and buildings of the
tomb and the adjoining mosque were repaired. Currently, the tomb is whitewashed
from the outside and so is the mosque. However, on the inside of the tomb, one
can still see the beautiful fresco paintings of floral and geometric designs
6.
BEGUMPURA GARDEN GATEWAY AND RUINS
This site is located hardly thirty meters
from Nawab Zakirya mosque and Mehal, The tall multifold arch is occupied by
some local residents. Further to this arch a floor constructed of Mughal era
brick is still present. Due to the neglect of the responsible authorities and
is in dire need of preservation and conservation. At the present time, it is
occupied and used as a dwelling, in utmost disregard for its historical
importance
7.
CYPRESS TOMB
Cypress Tomb (Saruwala Maqbara)
is in close vicinity of the Gulabi Bagh and lies directly in the north of Dai
Anga's tomb, it is not accessible from there due to the various buildings that
have been constructed in the area. No doubt, at one time the gardens of these
sepulchers were inter-connected.
To visit the unusual monument of Cypress Tomb, you will have to take a left
turn on Begampura Road going east on G.T. Road. Turning right (east) through a
locality known as Sharif Park and turning left again (north) you will reach
your destination. The tomb, however, is not directly visible, because of the
houses that surround the monument. But once the location is pointed out and as
you turn left, you will not have any difficulty in locating it since it is only
slightly set back from the road, and is accessible by car.
The tomb of Sharf-un-Nisa Begam is popularly known as 'Saruwala' Maqbara
because of images of cypress trees rendered in square ceramic tiles, rather
than the tile mosaic seen in Gulabi Bagh Gateway, as a decorative feature. The
begam was a sister of Nawab Zakariya Khan, governor of Lahore during the reign
of Emperor Mohammad Shah.
The tomb was the last worth nothing building of the later Mughal Period
constructed at Lahore in 1745. The tower-like form, sporting slightly battered
walls, is unique in itself. The tomb for its unusual shape and facade
decoration of the cypress motif is considered to be the jewel of Mughal
architecture in Lahore.
The building was constructed to cater to Sharf-un-Nisa Begam's requirement of
daily visits to the first-floor chamber, 16' above the ground. There, after
reading the Holy Quran she would deposit the holy book as well as her jeweled
sword, descending using a removable wooden ladder. After her death, she
was buried in the same chamber, along with a copy of the holy book and her
jeweled sword. Respecting her wishes to keep her mortal remains out of sight
and inaccessible, all openings were blocked up, providing a blank appearance in
the battered walls on all four sides.
Due to the desecration carried out on this 18th-century tomb during the Sikh
rule—it was believed that the tower contained treasure and breaking open the
tomb, the holy book, and the jeweled sword was removed—decorative features are
extant only in the upper part of this two-story structure.
Square in the plan, the tomb is a solid, tower-like tapering brick structure with
chajja near the top of the dome. The chamber is covered by a single dome of a
four-sided pyramidal shape. The drum has a low neck. A band of color-glazed
tiles runs around the neck of the dome. It is embellished with the attributes
of Allah in superb calligraphy. The burial chamber can only be approached by
the use of a moveable ladder. The idea behind the such structure is that even the
grave of the purdah observing lady should be kept out of the view of the public.
The low-pitched four-sided pyramidal dome, over a double drum, is a unique
feature of this tomb. The dome is covered with glazed tiles in blue and white
colors finished in zig-zag patterns. The projecting chajja (eaves), and a
pyramidal low roof, similar to one seen in the tomb of Hazrat Mian Mir provide
a fitting termination.
The exterior of the tomb is embellished with colorful cypress trees. These
cypresses, four on each side, are intercepted by little blooming flower plants,
all in enameled square tile mosaic work on the plaster base. The tomb was
surrounded by a large garden at the time of its construction, however; now it
is hemmed in by houses, leaving a small garden that is used by the local youth
to play cricket, as is the case in many of the remaining tombs gardens.
8.
BEGAMPURA MOSQUE
This mosque, on the eastern side of the University of Engineering and Technology, was built by Nawab Zakariya Khan,
governor of Lahore, in the name of his mother. It is locally known as Begam
Shahi Mosque (also the appellation for Maryam Zamani Mosque outside the fort).
In government records, it is known as “the mosque with glazed tile work at
Begampura”.
The harmonious mosque of Begampura with a bangladar roof and green glazed tiles
painted with elegant floral designs is a unique monument of the late Mughal period
at Lahore. The mosque has a double Taiwan, which is its most unique feature
among other mosques in Lahore. The original surviving part of the mosque is its
prayer chamber having five arched openings in the front. It is an oblong
structure measuring 70 feet 8 inches by 41 feet 6 inches and having two long
bays, divided using wide arches into four inter-communicating
compartments, two side rooms, and a central chamber. The ceiling of these
compartments is created using vaultings, the façade of the central
compartment has been given the shape of a concave curvilinear with a rib in the
center. The three arched openings on the north and south sides, now blocked,
originally opened in the courtyard. Inside the chamber, the Qibla wall has five
niches. Instead of the usual central niche being larger, the two adjoining
niches on either side are bigger in size instead, which is the most unusual
feature of this mosque. On the east of the aiwan, lies a large courtyard of
considerable dimensions.
Of the surface ornamentations, the revetment consisting of square glazed tiles
of yellow color is prominent. The façade of the prayer chamber has
inscriptions in glazed tiles having the Kalima and a Quranic verse.
9.
RASUL SHAHYUN'S TOMB
This crumbling tomb is located northeast of
Chilla of Shah Badr Diwan and about four hundred meters west of Mian Khan's
Tomb. The circular dome is supported by a building of octagonal form. The dome
itself is now blackened with age but in the spandrels above the arches, traces
of glazed pottery work still exist. The chajja is supported by corbels, six on
each side. The octagonal building originally stood on a raised platform,
of which traces can still be seen. Beneath the platform was an underground
chamber in which were interred the remains of the personage in whose honor the
edifice was raised. His name cannot be ascertained but according to Latif, the
dome was called Rasul Shahyun ka Maqbara (tomb) by the people of the area
because the followers of the "Shahyun sect" had located
themselves there during the time of the Sikhs.
10. MIAN KHAN
TOMB
This well-preserved baradari is located at
Shiwala Chowk in Singhpura area of Bhogiwal. According to Kanhaiya Lal's
Tarikh-e-Lahore written in 1884, it is the same baradari that houses Mian Khan's
grave. Nawab Mian Khan was the son of Nawab Saadullah Khan who was the Prime
Minister of Lahore under Shah Jahan.
Main Khan died in 1671 during the reign of Aurangzeb and was buried inside
this baradari. Since he hailed from Chiniot in Punjab and Chiniot was famous
for having black stones, he used the same black stone in all of his
constructions. At the time of its construction, hundreds of thousands of rupees
were spent on this tomb. During the time of the Sikh triumvirate in Lahore, this
tomb and its garden became desolate. The marble and other precious stone were
removed and bricks were stolen by brick sellers. For some time, the tomb
structures came under the possession of Sheikh Imam-ud-Din who removed a large
number of black stone slabs from the main podium on which the baradari stands
and used them in his haveli. By the time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the
structure was in ruins but had still retained some beauty. Having found it
without an owner, Raja Suchet Singh occupied it, repaired the surrounding walls,
and planted a garden on its grounds. During his lifetime, the place was known
as Raja Suchet Singh's Bagh. During British rule, it was put on auction and
was bought by Nawab Ali Raza Khan Qazilbaksh for 2200 rupees.
11. BRITISH ERA
BARADARI
This Baradari structure is located near China
Scheme. Near to this, a few years back I have seen a room constructed of Mughal-era bricks, unfortunately, it is demolished.
From Brick Work, it looks like a century-old building constructed in the British era.
12. SHER SINGHS
BARADARI
The historical Sher Singh's Baradari is
located in the east of China scheme at Kot Khawaja Saeed. Maharaja Sher Singh
was born in 1805 in Gujranwala into a Sikh family of Sukerchakia misldars. At
the time, much of Punjab was ruled by the Sikhs under a confederate Sarbat
Khalsa system and Afghans, who had divided the territory among factions known
as misls. Sher Singh's father Ranjit Singh was the first Maharaja of Punjab. He succeeded his father at the young age of 12.
After several campaigns, his rivals accepted him as their leader, and he united
the Sikh factions into one large country. Sher Singh was known as a person who
did good work for the betterment of his people. He ruled for two and a half
years only but is remembered for improving the existing system of governance.
Sher Singh and his young son were brutally murdered by the Sardaran-e-Sindha
Walia. After his death, Rani Randhawi Singh and her family constructed their
Samadhis near this baradari.
The arches are also in very bad shape and may collapse at any time. The Auqaf the department which is responsible for its maintenance has constructed two
pillars to save the baradari from collapsing.
The roof of the building has been demolished and its debris lies as such. The
boundary wall is already gone. It is becoming a garbage dumping ground as the
locals of the area throw garbage inside the baradari.
There is also a shrine of famous Sufi Saint Allama Mirza Syed Shah Bilawal
Qadri on the premises of the baradari which used to host a Muslim festival in
Lahore. The baradari is also known as the Baradari of Shah Bilawal. Writers like
Kannahiya Lal Hindi and Justice Abdul Latif have mentioned this festival in
detail in their research. This festival used to take place in December.
The Samadhi of Sher Singh, located on the premises lies in complete ruins as
the domed structure appears to have been cut in half. The baradari itself is
fast turning into a garbage dump as the Solid Waste Management department has
constructed a waste enclosure hereafter demolishing one corner of the
Baradari.
13. MAI DAI'S
TOMB
This decaying edifice, also known as Khawaja Saeed's Daughter's Tomb, is
located to the east of Prince Pervez's tomb in the locality of Kot Khawaja
Saeed. As a contemporary to Prince Pervez's tomb, this tomb is unique for its
raised platform (similar to Cypress Tomb) upon which sits a quadrangular
building surmounted by a dome. Not much is known about the personage buried
within. Locals refer to it as "Mai Dai ka Gumbad (dome)", however;
historian Latif refers to this monument as the tomb of Khawaja Saeed's
Daughter. Khawaja Saeed, after whom the area is named, was a Mahavat (Elephant
Driver) of Prince Pervez.
Quadrangular in the plan, the tomb stands on a raised platform. The drum on the
chamber is raised using niches, topped by two shells of the dome in
different shapes. The inner shell is hemispherical and slightly pointed while
the outer shell is eight-sided and elliptical in construction. The eight-sided
dome is the only example of its type in Lahore. Its origin can be traced to
Sultan Ghari’s tomb built by Sultan Iltutmish at Delhi in 1231.
The corners of the roof are decorated with four small minarets surmounted by
small ornamental domes. The contour of the outer dome is slightly bigger than
the octagonal drum. A deep crack has appeared on the outer shell showing the
cavity between the two shells. On the top of the dome, a lotus base is still
retained for the pinnacle which has been lost to time. Its architectural features
suggest that it must have been constructed in the early reign of Shah Jahan and
derived inspiration from the tomb of Prince Pervez which is not far from it in
terms of both time and distance. On each side of the walls supporting the dome,
were latticed works of red sandstone, which are no longer extant.
Regretfully, this important and unique monument of the Mughal period has
suffered extensively due to the neglect of the responsible authorities and is
in dire need of preservation and conservation. At the present time, it is
occupied and used as a dwelling, in utmost disregard for its historical
importance.
14. PRINCE
PERVEZ'S TOMB
This massive tomb stands in the
locality of Kot Khwaja Saeed and is generally attributed to Prince Pervez, son
of Emperor Jahangir. According to Kanhaiya Lal, Prince Pervez was buried in
this tomb after he was slaughtered by the order of Asaf Khan when he returned
from Kashmir. However, this view is incorrect as Prince Pervez died at
Burhanpur in his 37th year on October 28, 1625, from where his body was
brought to Agra and buried in his garden there. Some accounts also attribute
this tomb to Dara Shaikoh but Dara Shaikoh is reported to have been
assassinated in Delhi and buried there in the complex of Humayun's tomb.
According to Abdullah Chughtai, the area of the tomb was originally a garden
owned by Prince Pervez, and the surrounding area was known as Mandi Pervezabad.
After the death of Prince Pervez, the garden was transferred to his daughter,
Nadira Begum, wife of Prince Dara Shaikh. According to Chughtai, Merh Shaikh,
son of Dara Shaikoh lies buried in this tomb; however, this statement has not
been historically proven.
According to Latif, it was the burial place of Pervez's two sons who were
murdered at Lahore along with other princes of royal blood, by the order of
their uncle Shah Jahan, on his accession to the throne. Latif also does not
provide any contemporary source for his information. Whosoever is buried there,
it is apparent that he was a royal personality as the tomb has been built
befitting to a royal status.
Details of the construction of the tomb are not known. However, some writers of
the 19th century had made some references to its history and architecture.
Chishti wrote in 1864 that "originally, the tomb was wholly in white
marble and its eight openings were furnished with marble door frames, but
Maharaja Ranjit Singh removed all the marble to use it in the Darbar Sahib at
Amritsar." Kanhaiya Lal, writing in 1884, records that "the tomb originally
was in marble, including its floor. All its four sides had magnificent gates.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh removed its marble and got it repaired in brick. The
brick repairs done by Ranjit Singh had also decayed by his time, and the tomb
was in a very bad condition of preservation and was then repaired by the
British Government."
Latif described the tomb in 1892 as standing eminently in the midst of
cultivated fields on a circular platform resting on another platform of the octagonal base, of the height of a man. The dome rose gracefully from an
octagonal platform duly supported by arches.
Muhammad-ud-Din Fauq visited the tomb in 1923 and according to him, "the
tomb was octagonal in shape and the grave was set inside. The white marble
Taweez (sarcophagus) was missing. To approach the grave, on the east, north,
and south of the platform, there were two sets of stairs flight to the
platforms, seven and five in number respectively. The platform was five feet
high from the ground level. In front of the stairs, on the north, the floor of
the terrace was badly in wreck. The ground around the platform was in
depression. The traces of a canal were visible which led to the garden of
Sardar Teja Singh.
Octagonal on a plan with an inner diameter of 22 feet 2 inches and an outer
diameter of 31 feet 4 inches (wall thickness of 4 feet 7 inches), the tomb
stands on a double platform. The lower platform measures 95 feet 6 inches in
length and the upper 66 feet 6 inches. Around the lower tier of the platform, there are remains of the kankar lime terrace about 3 to 4 inches thick. Modern
houses have encroached over the whole area and on the west, they even touch the
structure of the lower platform. Kanhaiya Lal had mentioned that there were
magnificent gates on all four sides of the tomb. Perhaps these gates were at
the extremity of the terrace which might have been the base of the geometrical
pattern brick pavement in hexagonal and octagonal forms, whose sufficient
remains still exist on the lower and upper tiers of the platform. The structure
of the tomb is built in small Lahori bricks of the size of 8 inches by 5¼
inches by 1 inch – the size of Shah Jahan’s period. The interior of the tomb was
once decorated with the usual fresco work whose traces are still extant here
and there. At the top of the platform, a terracotta frieze in two tiers in the
form of a leaf design has been applied by the way of decoration. Such a
terracotta decoration on a Mughal monument at Lahore is seldom met and is,
therefore, rare. The dome appears to be a single story, but the measurement of the height of the soffit in the interior and at the outer apex there is a
difference of some 14 feet. From this, it can be inferred that actually, it is a
double dome, but the usual small opening which is provided between the two domes
has not been kept for some reason or maybe it was blocked sometime later. The
tomb has a high neck like that of Ali Mardan Khan's tomb with which it has some
similarity in expression. The possible date of its construction falls in the
fourth decade of the 17th century – from 1630 to 1640.
The tomb is in a lamentable state of neglect. Its arches which take the load of
the heavy dome are broken, and the structure is in danger of a sudden collapse.
Most of the pavement on the interior and of the platforms has disappeared. The
stairs to the platforms are mostly dilapidated and there is wild growth all
over the dome itself which allows leakage of rainwater to the core. Currently,
the tomb is almost hemmed in by modern houses.
15. MIR
NIAMAT KHAN'S TOMB
Mir Niamat Khan's Tomb is situated to the
south of Bhogiwal and north of G.T. (Grand Trunk) road, in the locality of
Babghbanpura. Hemmed in by the surrounding houses, it is a handsome
quadrangular tomb, surmounted by a dome of beautiful glazed pottery work, supported
by arches. The arches stand on pillars of solid masonry. The tomb originally
sat atop a quadrangular platform, which is no longer extant. Beneath the dome
is four graves, the larger central one being that of Mir Niamat Khan. There
used to be a garden surrounding the building which was already gone by the time
Latif wrote his account in the late 1800s.
Niamat Khan was the commander of the artillery at
the time of Shah Jahan. South of the tomb is a large mosque with three domes
and three arches. It was built by Mir Niamat Khan. The mosque that exists to this
day, however, has now been separated from the tomb of its builder by the dense
growth of houses in the area.
16. BUDDHU'S
BRICK-KILN
The once lofty brick kiln of
Buddhu was situated just south of GT road opposite the present-day University
of Engineering and Technology.
There is also a tomb in the area erroneously ascribed to Buddhu but which in
actuality contains the graves of Khan-e-Dauran Nusrat Jang and his wife.
Buddhu, son of Buddha, was a potter during the time of Shah Jehan. Suddhu, who
flourished in the time of Jahangir, constructed several kilns, in the
vicinity of Lahore, to supply burnt bricks for the royal edifices, as well as
the palaces of the nobles at Lahore. It is said that the fire in the kiln,
known after the name of Buddhu, was extinguished as a consequence of the curse
of a faqir, named Abdul Haq, a disciple of Mian Mir. Abdul Haq was turned away
by Buddhu's servants on a cold rainy day when he came to the kiln to warm
himself. The faqir cursed Buddhu and his kiln remained unserviceable ever
after. During the reign of Ranjit Singh, General Avitable, the French Officer
in his army, built a beautiful summer house on top of the kiln but no trace of
it exists now.
Buddha's main brick kiln likely no longer survives, although I have not scoured
that area personally at least one of the other kilns built nearby still
survives to this day. This kiln is located close to the tomb of Ali Mardan Khan
on the east side of Walton Road. One can still see the rows of burnt bricks
that were never removed.
17. REMAINS OF
NAWAB ZAKARIYA MAHAL
As the name suggests these are the remains of Nawab
Zakariya Mahal, on the eastern side of the University of Engineering and
Technology was built by Nawab Zakariya Khan, governor of Lahore.
18. ALI MARDAN
TOMB
Ali Mardan Khan was a high official in the
Mughal Empire under Shah Jahan. Born into a Kurdish family, he served as
governor of Kandahar under Persia's Safavid dynasty, becoming a close confidant
of Shah Abbas. After the Shah died in 1629, he became fearful for his life
as the Shah's successor Shah Safi (Sam Mirza) purged courtiers that had been
loyal to his grandfather. In 1637, Ali Mardan Khan offered to surrender
Kandahar to the Mughal Empire in exchange for his safety. Shah Jahan agreed to
the offer, probably with some enthusiasm as Kandahar had been under the control
of the Mughals during the reign of Jahangir, Shah Jahan's father.
As a Mughal officer, Ali Mardan Khan provided
guidance on canal instruction, especially regarding the Shah Nahar canal of
Shalimar Gardens. When he died in 1657, he was buried adjacent to his mother in
the tomb prepared for her next to the canal at Mughalpura. Originally, the tomb
sat amidst a large garden, but today only the large gateway survives.
As the tomb sits within the confines of a
modern-day rail yard, the authorities have built a kilometer-long passageway
from the street to the tomb to prevent visitors from trespassing
on the rail yard grounds.
19. BUDDHU'S
TOMB
On the south of G.T. Road, opposite the
University of Engineering and Technology lies a dilapidated tomb known as
'Buddhu ka Maqbara'. The tomb had an arched gallery and stood in an
enclosed garden with a gateway, of which no sign remains. The tomb stands on a
platform of masonry, the building itself being of quadrangular form, with an
arched entrance on each side.
Constructed with massive brick masonry, each
side of this square building is punctured with a central peshtaq opening
flanked by two slightly recessed arched panels. The zone of transition of the
square chamber to the hemispherical roof is expressed above the chamber in an
octagonal drum, on which a dome on a high neck is placed, resulting in a
somewhat overpowering gunbud (dome). Glazed tiles in blue and yellow
decorated the roof of the lofty building. Signs of floral designs in mosaics can
still be seen on some of the yellow tiles. Blue glazed tiles in chevrons can
also be seen on the apex of the dome. The arches are decorated with paintings
of different colors, but only faint traces of these decorations are now
visible.
Traditionally, the structure is attributed to Buddhu, a potter belonging to
Shah Jahan's reign. Buddha's father Suddhu is said to have had a
flourishing kiln trade during the reign of Jahangir, supplying bricks for all
the important structures and palaces built by the imperial family and grandees
of the court. However, the kiln was made unserviceable and its fire
extinguished forever, when a holy man named Abdul Haq, a disciple of Hazrat Mian
Mir, was turned away on a wintry, rainy night from the warmth of the kiln fire.
Later researches point toward the structure being the tomb of the wife of
Khan-e-Dauran Bahadur Nusrat Jan, an amir or grandee of the Mughal court.
Khan-e-Dauran himself is also reputed to have been buried here on his death in
1643. At his death, he held the rank of 7000 personnel and 7000
horses. As is the case of other similar structures, the tomb is likely to
have been set amidst a large garden.
During the Sikh rule, the area was occupied by the summer house of General
Avitabile, the French general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, although no evidence of
this has survived. The sepulcher was a center of activities during the
inter-Sikh wars when Maharaja Sher Singh and Raja Hira Singh in turn collected
Khalsa (Sikh) troops here to lay siege to Lahore.
20. CHILLA SHAH
BADR DEWAN
Chilla of Shah Badr Dewan is located to the
north of the Shrine of Khawaja Mehmud and exactly northwest of Begampura. This is
the place where the saint passed forty days of seclusion and meditation during
his stay in Lahore.
The imposing edifice stands in the center of
a walled enclosure on a platform of a height of 3 feet. It is a quadrangular
building surmounted by a high-neck dome of green color. The entrance to the
building is from stairs to the south and the walls of the remaining three sides
are perforated by latticed work of red sandstone which has now been ruthlessly
whitewashed. The structure was originally decorated with beautiful glazed
pottery work, of blue and yellow color, to the height of three feet from the ground
all around. Traces of the pottery work are still extant in some areas. To the
north is a small tower, decorated with pottery work and intended as a place for
a lamp.
The final resting place of Shah Badr Dewan is
in the village of Masanian in Batala, India. The saint's real name
was Syed Hasan Badr-ud-din Gilani (Baghdadi) but he was better known as Baba Shah Badr Dewan. He is a descendant of Ghaus-ul-Azam Syed Abdul
Qadir Gilani. He was born in Baghdad in 861 AH. He left Baghdad in
904 AH and came to Lahore where he stayed for several
years. From Lahore, he moved to village Masanian (3 miles east of
Batala, India) where he passed away in 978 AH.
21. KOS MINAR
The Kos Minars are the milestones made by the
Mughal emperors between 1556 to 1707 AD. "Kos" literally means a
medieval measurement of distance denoting approximately 3 km and
"Minar" is a Persian word for tower. This Kos Minar in Lahore is located near Ali Mardan Khan's Tomb and probably lined the original G.T. Road,
a few hundred meters north of it.
22. ANGOORI BAGH
RUINED
The construction of gardens on
a large scale began with the coming of Emperor Akbar to power, and
particularly between 1584-98 when he made Lahore the capital of his empire.
He reconstructed the fort and fortified the city with a double defensive wall. All important nobles of the Mughal empire,
serving in whatever region, built pleasure gardens and fruit gardens in all directions, in particular along major roads connecting Lahore with Delhi in the east, Multan road in the southeast, and Grand Trunk Road in the west.
During Shah Jahan's time, the areas in between were filled with a variety of gardens. Few gardens existed along this
route before Shah Jahan's time, but with the construction of the canal and
Shalamar Garden, the interest in this area increased. The fragments of some
Mughal period gardens still survive. These include Gulabi Bagh, Bagh-i
Eeshan, Pervaiz Bagh, Bagh Mahabat Khan, Anguri Bagh, Bagh Fateh Garh, the
Bagh around the tomb of Nadira Begum, Bagh Abul Hasan, Bagh Ali Mardan Khan,
and Bagh Mulla Shah.
The current site which I am refereeing was
part of Angoori garden now only ruined are left people occupied and construct
residence along with them.
23.
AVITABILE… THE EUROPEAN GENERAL OF PUNJAB
After Napoleon’s defeat in Waterloo, many of
the mercenaries left for Persia and India to test their fortunes. General
Avitabile was one of them. Born in 1791 in Agerola, Italy, his full name was
Paolo Bartolomeo Avitabile. The young Avitabile started his career in the
Army of Naples and was known as a brave fighter however after a while he got
frustrated with infightings and left for Persia looking for a career.
In 1820, Avitabile took service in Persian
Army under King Fateh Ali Shah. He remained in this position for almost six
years and was awarded Persia’s highest decorations including ‘The Lion and
Sun’. However, on the insistence of General Jean-Baptiste Ventura, Avitabile
along with another European officer Claude August Court, ventured further
East ending in the Darbar of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1827. Maharaja had
already established ‘Fauj-i-Khas’ under General Ventura and was actively
recruiting European officers to train his elite force against a possible
threat from the British East India Company. Though Avitabile was a military officer, Maharaja apparently sensing their administrative skills in Avitabile,
appointed him Governor of Wazirabad.
General
Avitabile ruled Wazirabad for some seven years with a firm hand and soon had the reputation of a just and firm administrator. Peshawar had always been a
source of trouble for the Maharaja so due to his firm repute, Avitabile was made Governor of Peshawar in 1834. He took residence at the ancient ‘Gor
Khutree’ citadel. The rule of ‘Gallows and gibbets’ continued for almost a
decade with miscreants being thrown off from the minarets of Masjid Mahabat
Khan. The 1842 service digest of the 31st (Huntingdonshire) Regiment mentions ‘At each corner of the city there was a large gallows on which malefactors were hanging’. In the words of Henry Lawrence, ‘ he acts like a savage among savage men, instead of showing them that a Christian can wield the iron scepter without staining it by needless cruelty. His ruthlessness was criticized by Europeans however the locals loved it as it brought peace to the area. The folklore remembers Avitabile as Abu Tabela and even today the children are warned to behave otherwise Abu Tabela may come to teach them a lesson. Perhaps we are again in need of Abu Tabela to bring peace to the whole of our North Western Province.
During the First Anglo-Afghan War (1839-42),
General Avitabile fully supported the British with logistics as well as money. However, by 1843, he was tired and so he retired and left for Naples with a fortune and honors. He built a grand home, married a twelve-year-old
Italian girl, and later died in 1850 under mysterious circumstances,
apparently poisoned by his wife. General Avitabile lies buried in Campora, a
small town in Southern Italy.
Lahore remembers this Italian cum French
General in the shape of a small insignificant monument that points to the location where once Avitabile had a house. The monument is situated on the GT road opposite the University of Engineering and Technology just next to the tomb of ‘Buddhu ka Awa’. The monument is already in a very dilapidated state surrounded by auto workshops. Soon this insignificant monument shall also be
no more but probably this is the way we have always treated our heritage.
24.
MUGHAL ERA WATER TANK
As elaborated above the whole area of
Shalimar and Begumpura in past occupied several gardens and there was a water supply system consisting of water tanks and canals also present for watering. One of the remains of the water tank was left in front of Shalimar Garden's main gate. A major part of the structure was demolished to widen Grand Trunk road.
Once the front wall of the structure was covered with tiles and other painting works.
But now it is all converted in ruined.
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