Monday 30 January 2023

Another Sucha Peer Shrine in Lahore & an Old Banyan Tree

2015


In Punjab, it is not uncommon to come across shrines referred to as "Sucha Pir." One such shrine, bearing a similar name, can be found in the border areas of Lahore while journeying from Manhala towards village Nawar. This particular shrine holds a significant location beneath the shade of an ancient banyan tree.

The shrine of Sucha Pir stands as a place of reverence and devotion for the local community. People from near and far visit this sacred site to seek blessings, offer prayers, and pay homage to the revered saint. It is believed that Sucha Pir, through his spiritual powers and connection with the divine, has the ability to grant wishes and provide solace to those who seek his intercession.

The shrine's surroundings exude an atmosphere of tranquility and serenity. The grandeur of the old banyan tree adds a sense of mystique and awe to the place. Its sprawling branches and dense foliage provide a natural canopy under which devotees can engage in contemplation, reflection, and prayer.









Saturday 28 January 2023

𝐍𝐚𝐠𝐚𝐫 𝐌𝐚𝐡𝐚𝐥 𝐌𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐚𝐛𝐚𝐝 2023

22nd January 2023

Nagar Mahal: A Majestic Relic of Bahawalnagar's Glorious Past

Introduction:

Nagar Mahal, a grand pre-partition building situated in Bahawalnagar, stands as a testament to the opulence and refined taste of its former owners. With its remarkable architectural features and a history that spans over 90 years, this majestic structure is located in Minchinabad town, approximately 35 kilometers from Bahawalnagar. Built by the affluent Agarwal brothers, Sheikh Nagar Mal and Bhajan Lal, Nagar Mahal remains a cherished heritage site that continues to captivate visitors to this day.

A Showcase of Wealth and Connoisseurship:

Renowned travel writer Salman Rashid, who had the privilege of exploring Nagar Mahal, describes it as a magnificent display of the Agarwal family's wealth and appreciation for art. In his book, Stone of Empire, Rashid recounts his experience, offering vivid insights into the grandeur of the mansion. The entrance is concealed behind a row of guest rooms, with a high arched doorway leading to the first courtyard, providing a glimpse of the captivating aesthetics that await.

 The Inner Courtyard: A Feast for the Senses:

 Ascending a short flight of stairs, visitors are greeted by a marble doorway adorned with a timber door, leading to the inner courtyard. The entire courtyard is a masterpiece of intricate carvings, featuring an abundance of grapevines, floral motifs, and curvilinear designs. Lord Krishna, depicted in his iconic pose playing the flute, graces the spandrels on either side. The central courtyard, a tradition that spans thousands of years, serves as the heart of the mansion, surrounded by rooms arranged in a square formation behind a veranda. The arches of the veranda openings follow the rich Mughal design, embellished with vibrant floral and curvilinear patterns. Each arch is crowned with a human likeness, possibly representing members of the Agarwal family. While the ground floor adheres to traditional architectural styles, the upper floor boasts an enchanting Italian influence.

A Fateful Transmigration:

The Agarwal brothers' ownership of the grand mansion was short-lived, as they were compelled to leave during the tumultuous events of the partition in 1947. Forced to abandon Nagar Mahal, the property came into the possession of the Sukhera family, who have since cherished and preserved its rich history. Dilshad Hussain Sukhera, a member of the family, reveals that the value of the property in the 1930s was an astounding Rs2.5 million, a truly princely sum for that era. Dilshad's son, Umair Sukhera, adds that their family acquired the haveli in exchange for hundreds of acres of land in Abohar, located in Indian Punjab.

Preserving the Legacy:

For generations, the Sukhera family has nurtured the lore of Nagar Mahal, ensuring its heritage remains alive. Their stewardship has allowed visitors and history enthusiasts to immerse themselves in the splendor of this architectural gem, offering a glimpse into the glorious past of Bahawalnagar.

Nagar Mahal, a magnificent pre-partition building in Bahawalnagar, is a testament to the Agarwal brothers' wealth and refined taste. With its exquisite architectural features and rich history, this majestic structure has stood the test of time. Despite the Agarwals' departure during the partition, the Sukhera family has lovingly preserved the haveli, keeping its legacy alive. Nagar Mahal stands as a proud reminder of Bahawalnagar's glorious past, captivating visitors with its grandeur and captivating allure.






































Wednesday 18 January 2023

𝗠𝗮𝗹𝗼𝘁 𝗧𝗲𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲- 𝗧𝗲𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲'𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝗮𝗹𝘁 𝗥𝗮𝗻𝗴𝗲 (2013)

𝗧𝗲𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗦𝗮𝗹𝘁 𝗥𝗮𝗻𝗴𝗲

Visited on April 14, 2013

Malot in the Salt Range, seven miles downstream from Katas, architects built a temple in the tenth century seemingly mimicking the plan and pyramidal bi-level typology of Kashmir. Marriage alliances may explain this, but local architects built temples, and scholars have largely misinterpreted the result.  This temple can neither demonstrate Kashmiri hegemony in this region nor define temples in the Salt range.

Architectural History

The temple was visited in 1848 by General James Abbott, whose account was accompanied by two sketches of the temple. He poignantly reported that “ I write at a great disadvantage so many hundreds of miles from any books of reference, and with a memory almost unrefreshed by study during five and twenty years

Cunningham 1875 speculated that Malot was the site of Xuanzang’s Simhapura. Stein 1937 perhaps more accurately associated Simhapura with the valley of Murti, southwest of Malot where a great stupa once stood. According to the Cunning report, which he accompanied with plans of both the temple and the fort it stands nearby.

The only remains of any antiquity at Malot are a temple and gateway in the Kashmirian style of architecture. They are built of coarse sandstone of various shades of ochreous red and yellow, and many parts have suffered severely from the action of the weather, the surface having altogether crumbled away. The exterior pyramidal roof of the structure has long ago disappeared.

Cunningham remarked, without observing the Nagara shrines inside, that the large trefoil ‘vaults’ on the cardinal faces of the temple have a T-shaped key-stone two courses in depth, similar to those in the temples of Kashmir

The Malot temple consisted of a central shrine and a gateway to the east but lacks the enclosing compound of cells common to many temples in Kashmir. It was built of sandstone from the Salt range at nearby Murti. On each wall, gigantic fluted pillars, topped by an Amalaka, block capital, and entablature, support a high trefoil arch. Within these are sub-shrine models with recessed cellos, their entries also framed by fluted pillars and trefoil vaults. Both the larger fluted frame and the sub-shrine entries mimic the entry and vestibule on the east. The smaller fluted column that flanked these sub-shrines chambers support a kind of head house above a multi-lobbed Torana and crowning face-of-glory that frames the central vault of trefoil entry. Above this is a brand of now much-abraded image. The superstructure above is a representative of large Nagara tower with flanking Latina turrets.

The double-high attached column and trefoil arches that frame these Nagara sub-shrines representations have shallow quarters columns within that support an additional echoing layer of trefoil framing. The temple is presumed to have been capped by a pyramidal roof with peaked dormers_ now largely lost and replaces is a watchtower- a form common to Kashmir and suggested by shrine models in the entry gateway.

Both scale and siting make this temple dominant in its region. But its eclectic nature marked more the diversity of Udi-Sahi patronage late in their rule, not Kashmiri control of Punjab. Stein 1937 captured its preeminent position well: It stands in impressive isolation on a bare rocky spur close to where the southern edge of the Salt Range, here nearly 3000 feet above sea level, falls off with precipitous cliffs toward the plain. Stein also noted that, two and a half miles north, a little hollow filled with luxuriant vegetation holds the small Hindu Sanctuary of Shivganga by the side of a pool fed by springs. The temple is constructed in the Kashmirian style. But it has been so heavily covered with plasters that none of the original decoration of the walls is now visible.

Most crucial to our understanding of the architectural originality of the temple of the Malot, and of architects in Punjab in the period, the least commented-on aspect of this remarkable monument, the large curvilinear models of shrines that fill the central projections on walls, of these, while describing in detail the tall fluted attached with pillars of the wall, Cunningham 1875 mentioned only that in “the recess between the pilasters is a highly ornamented niche with trefoiled arch, flanked by small fluted pilasters. The roof of the niche first narrows by regular steps, and then widens into a bold projecting balcony, which supports three miniature temples, the middle one reaching up in the top of the great trefoiled recess.”

He does not describe these three miniature temples. At all. That these are curvilinear, following the Nagara conventions of Northern India, and together they suggest the multi-spired forms of the tower- both anekandaka (with not one tower for a temple with circumambulatory walls) and sekhari (multi-deserted sikhara designed for temples without an ambulatory)- which architects had developed by the tenth century, none of those scholars who have advocated a ‘Kashmiri style’ in Punjab seems to have observed.

What I have called the ‘ Gandharan-Nagara’ typology for temples in Punjab from the sixth through the tenth centuries represents a particular and original variation of Latina formation for the Nagara superstructure. In the tenth century- a multi-spired form of Nagra tower set new standards across northern  India-images that suggest these appeared as models on the walls at Malot, signaling both this temple's local and trans-local connections and its architects’ knowing and creative originality.

If the overall form of the temple at Malot does consciously mimic the architectonic massing and pent roof model of Kashmir, it is almost unique in doing so in the Salt Range. Only the now ruinous and remade structure at the grove of shiv-Ganga nearby also seems perhaps to have a had a pyramidal roof. Built probably at a time in the tenth century when a strong matrimonial and political link did exist between the Udi-Sahi Kings and Kashmir, the temples at Malot and Shiv-Ganga were constructed in distinctive sandstone by architects who chose to make a rhetorical point by framing Nagra models over the temple’s cardinal niches by the fluted pillars, trefoil arches and attic pediments typical of Kashmiri Shrines.

History 

Malot Temples, built of local red sandstones of salt range mountains, are located located on the road leading to Malot village near Choi village. The road is linked with main Kalar kahar road from where it turns from Karuli Chawk towards Malot via Pakistan cement factory and Choi village along with coal mines. It is nine miles away in the south of Katas and same distance from Kalar kahar in the east. It is at the height of 3000 feet and the original spread of the fort was 2000 feet from east to west and 1500 feet from north to south. The inner most spread is 1000 by 500 feet. Gen Cunningham estimated the radius of 2.5 miles. The Malot was also called Namrod and Ramrod. Gen Abbot has mentioned its name as Shah Garh or Shai Garh but Janjuas name d it Raj Garh. The name is after the King of MalDev or Malu. The Rajput history claims its name Malot from the word Malik-Kot as they believed that the title of Malik was given to the one who accepted annexation to the Muslim King of Delhi although in reward the Malik enjoyed the autonomous status with full sovereignty in the assigned area. The Mughal King Babur’s travelogue “Tuzkai-Babree” attests to the corollary of Malik-Kot, Mal-Kot and then Malot. According to Ghadholak Rajput archives the city of Delhi was built around 994 AD and Malot was built around 980 AD. Gen Cunningham found the Malot Fort and Temples in a very bad shape even in 1848. The two present temples were looked after by the Brahman Bali Hindus till 1947. The Guru of Bali Hindus, Guru Tarlok Nath shrines were frequently visited by them. In the year 1527 Daulat khan Lodhi was forced by the royal forces of Mughal king Babur, to surrender. Mahan Singh, father of Maharaja Rangeet singh, also built a small fort here at Malot in early 19th century.