A Neglected 400 year old Mughal Era Bridge near KOT Pindi Das

 November 16, 2015

 

The Ravi River, originating from Indian-Occupied Kashmir, is joined by five major tributaries: Ujh, Bein, Basantar, Deg, and Hudiara. Interestingly, all except Hudiara, which is referred to as Hudiara Drain, are now called nullahs. The largest among them is Deg Nullah, stretching 256 km in length and covering a catchment area of 730 km².

Throughout history, Deg Nullah has maintained its significance to this day. In the 1620s, during the reign of Sheikhu, it posed a formidable obstacle for his royal entourage, with its banks swelling due to the ferocity of monsoons. More recently, Deg Nullah witnessed the largest tank battles since the Second World War during the 1965 conflict. Even today, it retains military importance as it divides the Shakargarh salient, which protrudes into Indian-Occupied Kashmir and holds significant strategic implications.

Every corner of our country holds within it thousands of years of history, and the seemingly insignificant Deg Nullah is one such uncelebrated and silent geographical entity. Renowned travel writer Sir Salman Rasheed visited this place a few years ago and shared its historical narrative:

"In the late monsoon of 1620, Emperor Jehangir and his court were encamped at Jehangirabad. October had arrived, yet the monsoon showed no signs of subsiding. As the court prepared to return to Lahore, the rains persisted, pouring down with great intensity.

The Degh River, originating from the hills near Jammu, flows past Sialkot and joins the Ravi south of Lahore, standing between Jehangir's hunting lodge and the city. As the royal caravan approached its banks, they discovered a raging, muddy torrent, impossible to cross even on elephants. For four days, the royal court was stranded until the saturated tents became unbearable for the king and his family.

To prevent future hold-ups on the Degh, Jehangir ordered the construction of a bridge across the otherwise fordable river. To this day, the bridge stands, connecting the village of Kot Pindi Das to the Lahore-Sheikhupura high road.

The bridge consists of two separate structures, around thirty meters apart. The southern structure features two arches, while the main structure is asymmetrical, with a central arch flanked by two smaller arches on one side and one on the other. Unfortunately, the once pristine Degh River, now polluted with untreated waste from the factories of Kala Shah Kaku, flows beneath the bridge, emitting a foul odor.

Thirty years after its construction, in October 1652, Shah Jehan faced a similar situation to his father. The rains persisted, causing the Degh to flood. This time, the floodwaters rose so high that even the bridge was submerged. Once again, the royal camp was forced to halt for four days, as some members of the forward party were swept away by the torrent."

Having planned to visit this site long ago, I was fortunate enough to finally make the journey last Sunday. Located near the village of Kot Pindi Das, roughly 10 km from the University of Engineering Technology Lahore Kala Shah Kaku campus, reaching the site involved traversing dirt roads that wind through the village. The condition of the bridge is currently deteriorating, with significant cracks appearing under the arches, indicating a potential collapse of the entire structure in the near future. Despite its precarious state, the bridge remains operational, with heavy sand-loaded trolleys still crossing it.

This 400-year-old bridge, constructed during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, holds immense historical importance. Regrettably, neither the government nor the archaeological department has made any effort to rehabilitate or preserve this site. In a matter of years, this significant piece of history will be lost forever, slipping into oblivion.

To forestall a future repeat of the hold up on the Degh, Jehangir ordered the throwing of a bridge across the river that is normally fordable. To this day the bridge spans the river and serves as a connection between the village of Kot Pindi Das and the Lahore-Sheikhupura highroad.

Havelis of Khushal Singh and Dhian Singh also known Asif Jah Haveli

It was the beginning of the year 2013 when I conducted a photo walk to visit various historical places in the walled city of Lahore with my friends. These havelis are part of a cluster of havelis known as Chuna Mandi Havelis, a significant group of historic buildings in the Walled City. It currently houses the Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women. Unfortunately at that time, we could not get permission to visit and have to leave the place through the main doorway; At that time, we have a little glimpse of the inside of Haveli from the entrance, which shows magnificent architecture ahead. The photo walk finished but the desire to visit this place ignited badly inside. I wanted to visit this place, I used all my personal contacts, also wrote a letter to Principle of this college for granting permission for visit; requested a Walled city director, and also asked many senior architecture lovers but all efforts were in vain. Three years passed, and one day I discussed the same with my good friend Maria Waseem, a historian researcher. After an effort of two months, we finally got permission, Special thanks to her and his husband in this regard.

The College building, with its spacious courtyard and Sikh imagery, is sometimes thought to be the famous haveli or Palace of Raja Dhian Singh, the young Rajput chamberlain of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, but is more likely to be the Palace of Jamadar Khushal Singh (d. 1844). Khushal Singh was a humble doorkeeper who later rose to the exalted position of Lord Chamberlain of Ranjit Singh. Khushal Singh may well have built upon earlier Mughal remains. The large expanse of the compound and the existence of a garden, along with some other pre-Sikh remains, indicate the existence of a large Mughal mansion. This could be the palace of Asaf Khan, brother of Empress Noor Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan. Asaf Khan was an arbiter of taste, and historical sources credit him with building a luxurious palace in Lahore which had cost an exorbitant 20 lakhs at the time. Another haveli in the group, located in the north, also sports a courtyard. It was built by Teja Singh, nephew of Jamadar Khushal Singh. The third extant structure, located on the east of the cluster is considerably smaller in size.

Not long after British annexation, the haveli was fitted up as the first place of public worship for the Christian garrison stationed in the fort and continued to be utilized as such until the tomb of Anarkali began to be employed for divine service in 1851. At this time the palace served as Government District School. Later, as is well known. Government College made its beginning in this building when classes were begun by the first principal of the College, Dr. G. Leitner on January 1, 1864. It was in 1877 when the new college campus was constructed that the haveli was vacated and fell into desolation until its recent restoration.

Seeing the magnificent haveli, one can well believe that its owner must have spent a pretty penny on it. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is as alive today as it was in its days of glory. Instead of being kept under lock and key, it is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to constructive use.

In fact, the college has put its premises to such fascinating use that it is not surprising to find students sitting in a math class that is bang next to a royal bath, or climbing up a dark turret that would lead them to their department. Jharokas and arched niches in the wall make for cozy and picturesque sitting arrangements where girls either partake of a snack or browse over their books. The school canteen, rather than being tucked away in some obscure corner is located right under the main entrance of the mansion, while the computer classroom and lecture hall are in the basement.

What’s more, the rooftops allow a quaint vista of the old city so that you can spot the Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque and even the Minar-e-Pakistan if you climb right to the top. It is no wonder that the haveli is fast gaining popularity as an ideal venue for Basant celebrations.

But, what is most heartening to know is that the heritage site is being properly looked after. Conservation work on the haveli was carried out by the Lahore Development Authority before it was converted into a college.

One does wish though that it could be made accessible to more people, for by and large it is bypassed by tourists visiting Lahore.