Gurudwara Chota Nanakiana at Manga, Distt Lahore (2020)

05-12-2020

Manga, located in the last district of Lahore on the way to Multan, is a town steeped in history, tracing its roots back several centuries. Within the district of Lahore lies a Gurudwara, a place of worship for Sikhs, which, despite being reduced to rubble, still retains its outer structure. This particular Gurudwara holds immense significance as it is associated with Guru Nanak, the revered founder and first Guru of Sikhism, as stated in the Scroll.in article.

Situated approximately 35 kilometers from the city of Lahore, Gurudwara Chota Nankiana Sahib stands as another remarkable place of religious importance. It is here that Guru Hargobind Ji, the sixth Sikh Guru, stayed on his return journey from Nankana Sahib. While the area encompassing 50 acres is exempted from land revenue, the building itself remains hollow, having been burnt down during the tumultuous period of Partition. The tragic circumstances leading to its destruction are believed to be a result of a group of Sikh devotees refusing to leave the Gurudwara, prompting a violent mob to set it ablaze.

The ownership of the land where the Gurudwara once stood now belongs to Late Justice Maulvi Mushtaq, who constructed the Aligarh Public School on the premises. The pond that was part of the Gurudwara now falls under the jurisdiction of Pakistan's Department of Fisheries. In Sikhism, any place where a Guru resides or stops becomes sacred. This belief holds true for Gurudwara Chota Nankiana Sahib, as it was during Guru Nanak's journey that he, along with his companions Mardana and Bhai Bala, crossed the river Ravi and briefly halted in Manga. Wherever Guru Nanak stayed, he would impart his teachings, and it is through this spiritual connection that Gurudwara Chota Nankiana Sahib was eventually constructed.

The gurudwaras around the world, including this one, bear witness to the religious and cultural history of Sikhism, often considered as manifestations of miracles or the profound teachings of the Gurus. The remnants of the Gurudwara in Manga and the hollow structure of Gurudwara Chota Nankiana Sahib serve as reminders of the resilience and enduring faith of the Sikh community, even in the face of adversity. These sites hold a deep significance for followers of Sikhism, drawing devotees and visitors alike to reflect on the spiritual heritage and profound impact of the Gurus' teachings.

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An ancient Mound of Eminabad (2020)

AN ANCIENT MOUND OF EMINABAD

Relevance: Archeological Mound 

Date of Visit:- 23 August 2020

(All pictures in this blog are taken by me, kindly respect copyrights)

In the southern part of Eminabad lies the remains of an ancient mound, a testament to the passage of time. This particular mound, believed to be two thousand years old, once belonged to the illustrious Kingdom of Raja Rasalu, the younger brother of the renowned historical figure Pooran Bhagat.

Fascinatingly, the bricks used in the construction of many of Eminabad's old buildings were sourced from this very mound. In times past, this mound stood grandly, stretching across a kilometer in radial distance. However, over the course of a few decades, much of its elevated terrain has been flattened and repurposed as agricultural fields. Yet, traces of its former glory persist, with scattered debris and fragments of pottery dotting certain areas of the land.

Additionally, Eminabad was once graced with the presence of two other mounds on its outskirts. Sadly, the relentless passage of time has caused these mounds to fade into obscurity, and only a few individuals possess knowledge of their precise locations.

QILA GUJJAR SINGH (2018)

 22-04-2018

#2018 

Qila Gujjar Singh, a residential area located within the boundaries of Lahore, gained its name from being designated as a "fort" in April 1765. During that time, the city was divided among three Bhangi Sardars: Gujjar Singh, Lahina Singh, and Sobha Singh. The portion of land outside the walled city of Lahore, approximately five square miles towards the Shalamar side, was allocated to Sardar Gujjar Singh.

To demarcate his "kingdom," Sardar Gujjar Singh constructed an entrance gateway, and since then, the area has been known as Qila Gujjar Singh (Fort Gujjar Singh). Although ruled independently by Sardar Gujjar Singh, the enclave remained part of the city of Lahore. During the British era, the railway station and police lines were built in this area.

Gujjar Singh Bhangi, one of the triumvirate who ruled over Lahore for thirty years before its occupation by Ranjit Singh, was the son of a modest cultivator named Nattha Singh. Strong and robust, Gujjar Singh received the vows of the Khalsa from his maternal grandfather Gurbakhsh Singh Roranvala, who gifted him a horse and enlisted him as a member of his band. As Gurbakhsh Singh grew older, he appointed Gujjar Singh as the leader of his band. Soon, this band merged with the force led by Hari Singh, the head of the Bhangi Misl of chiefship. Gujjar Singh embarked on a career of conquest and plunder.

In 1765, along with Lahina Singh (adopted son of Gurbakhsh Singh) and Sobha Singh (an associate of Jai Singh Kanhaiya), Gujjar Singh captured Lahore from the Afghans. As Lahina Singh held a senior relationship, being his maternal uncle, Gujjar Singh allowed Lahina Singh to take possession of the city and the fort, while Gujjar Singh himself occupied the eastern part of the city, which was then a jungle. Gujjar Singh built a mud fortress and invited people to settle there. He also dug wells for water supply and constructed a mosque for the Muslim population. The area, where the present-day railway station of Lahore is located, still bears his name and is known as Qila Gujjar Singh.

Gujjar Singh went on to capture Eminabad, Wazirabad, Sodhra, and around 150 villages in Gujranwala district. He then seized Gujarat from Sultan Muqarrab Khan by defeating him under the city's walls in December 1765, establishing Gujarat as his headquarters. In the following year, he expanded his territory by capturing Jammu, Islamgarh, Punchh, Dev Batala, and extending his control as far as the Bhimbar hills in the North and the Majha country in the south. During Ahmad Shah Durrani's eighth invasion, Gujjar Singh and other Sikh Sardars offered strong resistance. In January 1767, when the Durrani commander-in-chief arrived in Amritsar with 15,000 troops, the Sikh Sardars routed the Afghan horde. Shortly after, Gujjar Singh laid siege to the famous Rohtas Fort, held by the Gakkhars, with the assistance of Charat Singh Sukkarchakia, who had friendly relations with him and gave his daughter, Raj Kaur, in marriage to Gujjar Singh's son, Sahib Singh. Gujjar Singh subdued the warlike tribes in the northwestern Punjab and occupied parts of Pothohar, Rawalpindi, and Hasan Abdal.

Gujjar Singh passed away in Lahore in 1788.

An old and abandoned Hindu temple in Kanjrur. (2020)

09 August, 2020

Kanjrur is a small town located  6 km from the Kartarpur. Before partition, it was pre-dominant with the Hindu population. Also, there were several Hindu temples present in Kanjrur. 

After the partition none of the Hindu family stayed there, sadly most of the temples were dismantled in the reaction of the Babri Masjid incident. 

In this picture, one can see a small abandoned temple around which Local children are playing. The structure consists of a single-story square “Sanctum” which was designed for placing the housing deity. In the sanctum room corner squinches portion filled with extended flower bouquet element made of lime. Around all four sides of the sanctum assembly hall for devotees present in Hindu terminology it is called “Ayatana”

From the square sanctum structure main temple curvilinear spire (tower, sikhara) is raised, which is a common type of northern Indian Shrines (Latinas). 

An old Eidgah Eminabd (2020)

AN OLD EIDGAH IN EMINABAD

Relevance: Muslim Architecture 

Date of Visit:- 23 August 2020

(All pictures in this blog are taken by me, kindly respect copyrights)

Article No.1 on Eminabad

South of #Eminabad, remnants of an old mound still exist, it is supposed that it is two millennium years old and was the part of great Raja #Rasalu (the younger brother of famous historical character Pooran Bhagat) Kingdom. 

It is also interesting to mention here that all the old buildings of Eminabad have been constructed from the bricks taken from this mound. 

In this picture, the wall and gateway is of old Janezagah present in one of the graveyard of Eminabad. The place was very mysterious and having graves of mughals soldiers as well that were constructed of old bricks. Also there were trees which are more than a century old. Dnt know why i could not able to take my DSLR out , took this shot from mobile.

Dancing Girl, Mohenjo-Daro – Art from the Indus Valley Civilization' (2020)

22 February, 2020

Mohenjo Daro,Sindh

Pakistan

This statue is a cultural artifact reflecting the aesthetics of a female body as conceptualized during that historical period.

The bronze girl was made using the lost-wax casting technique and shows the expertise of the people in making bronze works during that time.

The statuette was named “Dancing Girl” based on an assumption of her profession. She is one of two bronze artworks found at Mohenjo-Daro that shows a more natural pose than compared to other more formal figures.

The statuette has large eyes, a flat nose, healthy cheeks, curly hair, and a broad forehead. She is a tall figure with long legs and arms, high neck, subdued belly, and sensuously modeled.

The girl wears some bangles and a necklace. She has 25 bracelets on her left arm and four bangles on her right arm and is holding an object in her left hand. Her long hair styled as big bun rested on her shoulder.

The Statue of Priest King Mohenjo-Daro (2020)

The Statue of Priest King
22 February, 2020

He is the iconic representation of Indus civilization. He dates to 2200-1900 BC

In 1927, a seated male soapstone figure was found in a building with unusually ornamental brickwork and a wall-niche. Though there is no evidence that priests or monarchs ruled Mohenjo-daro, archaeologists dubbed this dignified figure a "Priest-King." The sculpture is 17.5 centimetres (6.9 in) tall, and shows a neatly bearded man with pierced earlobes and a fillet around his head, possibly all that is left of a once-elaborate hairstyle or head-dress; his hair is combed back. He wears an armband, and a cloak with drilled trefoil, single circle and double circle motifs, which show traces of red. His eyes might have originally been inlaid

Remains of Bakhar/Bukkur Fort (Island), Sukkur (2020)

23 February 2020

All photos are owned 

Bakhar During our trip to Sukkur, we planned to visit Bakhar Fort. Unfortunately, we were unable to obtain permission to visit this historical site, as it is located on a small island named Bakhar in the Indus River, between the towns of Rohri and Sukkur. Currently, the premises of the fort are occupied by an army school, and access is restricted to the general public.

Despite being unable to enter the fort, we managed to capture a few pictures of the site from the opposite bank of the Sindh River at Satyan Jo Aastan, known as the "Seven Sister Graves."

The island itself has an irregular shape, approximately 2 furlongs broad in the North-South direction and 4 furlongs long in the East-West direction. The entire island is encompassed by the fortification wall, which runs along the outer periphery and touches the waters of the Indus. The western portion of the island is inhabited and features barracks and a parade ground, but it lacks any prominent monuments except for a shrine and a ruined mosque. However, the presence of brick bats, pottery shards, and heaps of earth scattered throughout the area suggests that this part of the island once contained numerous buildings. The fortification wall, which used to encircle the entire island, has mostly disappeared, except for a few remnants here and there, particularly in the southern and northwestern sides. The wall was constructed using burnt brick tiles, primarily measuring 12"x12"x21½" in size, although various sizes of bricks were likely used for repair purposes. Several bastions, with semi-circular and elliptical shapes, still stand, alongside gateways of different sizes, now partially obscured by rubble. The fortification wall is approximately 5 feet thick, but in some places, it reduces to only 2 feet in thickness, while its height ranges from 10 to 10 feet.

The fort is divided into two equal parts by a railway line. The western part of the fort contains only two buildings—a modern shrine or tomb and a mosque constructed with burnt bricks and mud. The eastern part, however, only exhibits scattered foundations of walls.

Bakhar Fort, also known as Bakhar (meaning "Dawn") as named by Sayyid Muhammad Al-Makki in the seventh century of the Hijri calendar, is situated on a limestone rock island. The island is oval in shape, measuring approximately 800 yards long by 300 yards wide, and stands at a height of about 25 feet. According to historical records from 1912, the Superintendent of Land Records and Registration in Sindh stated that the area of Bukkur Island was 255,292 square yards, equivalent to 49 acres (20 hectares). Presently, Bukkur Island is occupied by an Army public school and the tomb of Sayyid Sadruddin, the son of Sayyid Muhammad Al-Makki.

The fortress of Bakhur was constructed using brick on a low rocky island made of flint, located 400 yards from the left bank of the Indus and slightly less distance from the eastern side of the river. Its walls were fortified with loopholes and flanking towers that sloped towards the water's edge, with a maximum height of twenty feet. The fortification featured a gateway on each side, facing Roree and Sukkur, as well as two smaller wickets. The interior of the fort was densely populated with houses and mosques, some of which extended above the walls, including parts of the rock itself. The fort had an approximately oval shape, measuring 800 yards in length and 300 yards in breadth. Although the rock had been pared and scraped in certain areas, Bukkur Fort derived its strength not from its structures, but from its strategic position

In 622 H. (1225 A.D.), Shums-ud-deen led an army to Oochch with the intention of overthrowing Nasir-ud-deen, who had entrenched himself at Bukkur. During this campaign, Shums-ud-deen detached Nizam-ul-Moolk to Bukkur, but Nasir-ud-deen attempted to escape by boat, which tragically capsized in a storm, resulting in his drowning.

During the First Anglo-Afghan War in 1839, the fort was armed with a garrison of 100 men from the Khyr poor Ameer and fifteen pieces of artillery. The fort's walls enclosed the entire island, except for a small date grove on the northern side, which provided a potential landing point from the right. The fort could be captured through escalation or breached from the riverbank.

Mohenjo-Daro Alive again

22 February, 2020

Mohenjo-daro was one of the chief cities of the Indus Valley civilization, flourishing in the third millennium BC before its destruction around 1900 BC. Surprisingly, none of India’s pre-British rulers—the Mauryas, the Guptas, the Delhi sultans, or the great Mughals—showed any interest in these ruins.

However, in 1922, a British archaeological survey took notice of the site. A British team then excavated it, uncovering the first great civilization of India, which had remained unknown to any Indian.

This awakening sparked a renewed exploration of India's ancient past. The extensive excavations unearthed a treasure trove of artifacts that revealed the intricate urban planning, advanced craftsmanship, trade networks, and social structure of the enigmatic Indus Valley civilization—an extraordinary testament to their unparalleled achievements.

The acknowledgment of Mohenjo-daro's significance by British archaeologists unveiled a historical narrative that had been dormant for centuries. It served as a catalyst for understanding India's rich ancient heritage, shedding light on a civilization that once thrived but had largely faded into obscurity until rediscovered by the keen eyes of foreign explorers.

Mohenjo-daro, aptly termed "the Mound of the Dead," showcased remarkable sophistication in its urban planning and architectural prowess. The excavations unearthed a vibrant culture, displaying outstanding architectural marvels, artistic expressions, and technological advancements.

The artifacts retrieved from Mohenjo-daro spoke volumes about the daily lives, customs, and societal structures of this ancient civilization. Intricately crafted pottery, exquisite jewelry, meticulously carved sculptures, enigmatic seals, and innovative tools provided glimpses into the lives and craftsmanship of people from millennia past.

The revelation of Mohenjo-daro marked a pivotal moment in history, illuminating an ancient civilization that time had buried. Its rediscovery reshaped India's historical narrative, introducing the world to the marvels of an advanced society that once thrived along the banks of the Indus River.

Today, the Archaeological Museum of Mohenjo-daro in Larkana stands as a guardian of this heritage, preserving and showcasing the treasures excavated from the site. It serves as a bridge to the past, inviting visitors to explore and appreciate the ingenuity and cultural richness of an ancient civilization that remained hidden for millennia.

Adina Beg the Last Muslim Governor of Lahore in Mughal Empire

25-05-2020

Reference

Memories of Lt General HS Panag

Majid Sheikh articles in Dawn

The history of 18th century Punjab would be incomplete without the story of Adina Beg, the son of the soil arain (marginal farmer/sharecropper), who played a pivotal role in every political and military event in Punjab from 1738-1758. At different times, he allied with and fought against all major players, that is, the remnants of Mughals, Afghans, Sikhs and the Marathas. What mattered most was survival and power. Survive he did and powerful he became, briefly ruling Punjab from Indus to Yamuna in 1758. He thus became the first son of the soil Muslim governor of Punjab. Before him, during 500 years of the collective reign of Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire in India, Punjab had Muslim governors. But they were all of foreign origin – Turkic, Central Asians, Persians or Afghans.

Dina (later Adina) was born to one Chunnu, in 1710 in Sharakpur, 30km from Lahore. Abject poverty drove the unlettered arain to work as a domestic servant in houses of Mughal officers in Jullundur or Bist Doab. Proximity to Mughal officers inspired him to join the army, which he did, becoming an accomplished soldier. Ambitious Adina soon became a revenue collector or patwari. Due to his drive and efficiency, he became indispensable to the Faujdar of Sultanpur Sarkar (district) as a revenue collector in a short period. His revenue work took him to Lahore, where he won the confidence of Zakariya Khan, the governor of Lahore. On the death of the incumbent faujdar, he was appointed the new faujdar of Sultanpur.

He adopted a new name – Adina Beg Khan – to hide his arain origin and pretend to be from Turkic aristocracy. After the invasion of Nadir Shah, he quickly brought about relief and order. Zakariya Khan was so impressed that he made him the Nazim or Governor of the entire Bist Doab. His forte was his administrative skill and military prowess. He managed and protected the rich Doab keeping both the people and his superiors in Lahore happy. So much so, that no matter who ruled Lahore or Delhi or whom Adina fought or allied with, he was the natural choice for controlling the ‘revenue rich’ Bist Doab!

Despite directions of successive Lahore governors, he adopted a ‘Mutt and Jeff’ policy against the Sikhs. Sometimes persecuting them but most times remaining in secret alliance with them to maintain his power. Zakariya Khan briefly jailed Adina Beg for falling in revenue arrears. But given his administrative efficiency, he was reinstated as Deputy Nazim of the Bist Doab under Shah Nawaz, the young son of Zakariya Khan. On the death of Zakariya Khan in 1745, Adina Beg assisted Shah Nawaz to seize power in Lahore. But the duo came under pressure from grand Wazir, Qamruddin, at Delhi court. To ward off the threat Adina advised Shah Nawaz to invite Ahmed Shah Abdali to invade India. “Crown to Ahmed Shah, and Wazarat to Shah Nawaz”, said the invite. Never one to put all eggs in one basket, Adina also informed the Delhi court about the “treachery” of Shah Nawaz who was prevailed upon by, the grand Wazir to fight Abdali.

In January 1948 Shah Nawaz and Adina Beg were routed by Abdali outside Lahore. Adina Beg, retreated towards Kangra. The Mughal Army of Muhammed Shah, ‘Sada Rangila’, under his son Ahmed Shah and Wazir Qamruddin, who died in battle, inflicted a surprise defeat on Abdali at Sirhind, March 11-13, 1748. Never to be left out, Adina Beg after a forced march, joined the battle and was wounded proving his loyalty. Abdali retreated back to Afghanistan. The hero of the battle, Mir Mannu, the son of Wazir Qamruddin was rewarded with the governorship of Lahore. Adina Beg was again the natural choice to be the Nazim of Bist Doab. Even after defeating Mir Mannu in 1751, Abdali did not disturb this arrangement.

The best of Adina Beg Khan was yet to come. In November 1753, Mir Mannu suddenly died. A power struggle ensued between his widow, Mughlani Begum and powerful nobles of Lahore and Delhi court. Adina became more powerful. In April 1755 he along with his foes/allies – the Sikhs – showed great enterprise in defeating the Rohillas who had invaded the Sirhind Suba. The grateful Delhi Court also gave him the charge of Sirhind Suba. He now controlled the entire territory from Beas to Yamuna along with tracts in Bari Doab and Kangra. Emboldened, Adina Beg captured Lahore. He now controlled entire Punjab except Multan. His control over Lahore was shot lived as an Afghan force restored Mughlani Begum to power.

Abdali again invaded India in November 1756. Adina Beg retreated to Kangra Hills. Abdali ransacked Delhi, restored Alamgir 2 to power and appointed the Rohilla Chief Najib as the head of the Mughal Army. An outbreak of Cholera in March 1756 forced Abdali to go back.

The subas of Lahore and Sirhind were ceded to Abdali. Abdali appointed his 11-year-old son as the governor of Lahore with his trusted General, Jahan Khan, as his guardian. Due to his efficiency, Adina was again retained as the Nazim of Jullundur Doab. However, he refused to present himself in court or proceed against his allies, the Sikhs with whom he combined to defeat an Afghan force. Threatened by Jahan Khan, Adina Beg played a masterstroke. He invited the Marathas, who were already the kingmakers in Delhi, to invade Punjab. A combined army of Marathas, Adina and the Sikhs first captured Sirhind on March 21, 1758, and then raced to capture Lahore on April 19, 1758. Afghans were chased beyond the Indus. Not wanting to permanently rule Punjab, the Marathas left behind a small army and appointed their own Governor at Lahore, none other than Adina Beg Khan! He now controlled entire Punjab from Indus to the Yamuna. Adina Beg decided to reduce the power of the Sikhs. Before he could do so, on September 15, 1758, he died from a colic attack at the age of 48.

The mercurial Adina Beg Khan had been able to galvanise the sons of the soil punjabi Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs to seize control of Punjab much like Ranjit Singh was to do another 50 years later. He achieved all this in a span of two decades by force of his character, military prowess, administrative skills and diplomacy that focused on ever-changing complex alliances

Chronological Detail of Governor’s & Ruling Empire over Lahore (1526 to 1947)

 All data compiled after taking reference from working of Michael brand and Baksh
#Mughalgovernorsinlahore

My visit to Hiran Minar in Last century (1996-97)

06-05-1996
Pictorial blog
School trip

RAJGAN MOSQUE (2018)

RAJGAN MOSQUE

—All photos by the author

Date of Visit: -      29-03-2018

Masjid Rajgan, renowned for its name and historical significance, was constructed in 1872 by Raja Sultan Jehandad Khan, who happened to be the grandfather of the esteemed senior parliamentarian and former Chief Minister of NWFP, the late Raja Sikandar Zaman Khan. Raja Sultan Jehandad, also known as the founder of the old Khanpur Town, faced a challenging situation when the town was eventually submerged by the creation of Khanpur Lake in the late 70s, leading to the resettlement of its inhabitants in the newly established Khanpur and nearby areas.

According to the accounts of local elders and members of the Khan family, Jehandad Khan invited skilled architects specializing in Islamic Art from Delhi to undertake the construction of the mosque nestled in the picturesque valley. These architects skillfully employed bricks and exquisitely carved black stones in the construction process, lending the mosque its aesthetic allure. The wood used for the doors, cupboards, and roof was imported from the scenic Leepa Valley. The historic mosque, an emblem of ancient Islamic architecture, boasts two prominent minarets and two smaller ones, with a charming dome-shaped minaret gracing its center.

Four of the mosque's arched entrances, along with the main gate, bear striking resemblance to the Jamia Masjid in New Delhi, a masterpiece commissioned by Emperor Shah Jehan during the period of 1650-1656 AD. According to local elders, the finely chiseled black stones utilized in constructing the main boundary wall of Masjid Rajgan were imported from India. However, there are conflicting beliefs among some individuals who contend that the stones may have originated from the ancient city of Taxila, a renowned center of craftsmanship.

Initially designed to accommodate approximately 1,000 worshippers, the mosque now stands abandoned, witnessing the gradual deterioration of its walls with the passage of time. In its prime, the mosque served as a spiritual sanctuary for the local community, attracting devotees and scholars alike.

The palace associated with the mosque was a remarkable architectural marvel in its own right. Crafted with the same skill and precision, the palace featured intricately chiseled stones and timber sourced from the enchanting Leepa Valley. The windows were adorned with exquisite Belgian glass, while Italian tiles embellished the interiors, and French door knobs added a touch of elegance. The construction of this grand palace, complementing the magnificence of Masjid Rajgan, spanned ten years and incurred a total cost of Rs1.2 million in 1872.