Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) of Kot Diji (2020)

 

Date of Visit: - 23^rd February 2020 (R)

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

Outer Elevation of Building

When it comes to Sheesh Mahal, one thinks about the 'Mirror Palace,' which is present inside the Lahore Fort its construction was ordered by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1631 and completed in the year 1632. However, another building with a similar name is present in Pakistan at Kot Diji in the province of Sindh. Its construction is attributed to Mir Fateh Ali Khan. 

Mir Fateh Ali Khan established the Talpur dynasty after defeating the Kalhoras at the Battle of Halani. Mir Fateh Ali Khan, also declared himself the first Rais, or ruler of Sindh, in the aftermath of this, Khairpur becomes the hometown of the Talpur’s. The Khairpur state was ruled under Talpur’s from the period (1783 to 1955). Also, Khairpur became famous for its historical monuments, palaces, forts, and artistic buildings. 

The Talpur architecture features a combination of various elements that have roots derived from Islamic, Mughal, Rajasthani, and British buildings.  Talpur rulers hired engineers, masons, and artisans from all parts of the sub-continent for bringing innovation and new styles to their construction. 

I traveled to Khairpur last year, after visiting Kot Diji Fort and the ancient archaeological mound present there, we wanted to see the Oak Mahal, but its permission was canceled at the last minute. Our guide told us that we have a chance to see another historical building located a few kilometers from the fort named 'Sheesh Mahal of Kot Diji,'. 

After reaching the site, we met with a guard, who welcomes us in a very unfriendly manner. However, after a little talk with our guide who was also a local, he gave us permission for only five minutes to visit the place. 

Sheesh Mahal is a two-story building that has dimensions of 92 x 118 feet. There is a main hall in the center, which must be a darbar for royals in the past. The darbar walls are partitioned into equal-distance wooden door entrances on all four sides. These doors have elegantly designed circular arched ventilators at the top, which are decorated with multicolor glasses.

The darbar hall is rich in architectural embilshments, geometric patterns, and murals. The intricated design on the roof of mosaic work is something unique and a treat to watch also I have seen it in very less buildings in Pakistan,  

Another distinctive element of this building is the fresco floral paintings present on the roof and walls. The use of glass in different design patterns was so skillfully done and amazing to watch. It is also told by our guide that this is a Jodhpuri style of work. It is also noted that the building's interior doors are half-round. In a semi-circle area, tinted glass pieces are used. Earlier, I have seen such a type of glass design in many old buildings in Chiniot city. 

The interior of Main Hall, amazing floral patterns on walls and roof. Also one can see the half-round door with tinted glass on semi arched portions 

Corridors present along the length on both sides of the building. These corridors are supported with semi-circular arches having multifold facades on one end resting on circular Greek-style columns on the outside. 

 

 

Entrance 

Floral design on roof and walls 

Wooden Doors

Car Porch

Entrance

View from inside

Lights were off or either not available I have to use high iso for taking pictures 

Car Porch

Me

Another view of interior

Bath Rooms

Royal Bathroom and tub

 

 

 

     

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A Stepwell (Baoli) at Thokar Niaz Baig (2017)

 

 (All pictures taken by the author shall not be used anywhere without permission)

Date of visit:- 14 October 2017

Before the partition of 1947, the town of Thokar Niaz Baig was located 7 miles outside of the city of Lahore. 

 

The history of this town is not much known; however, some references can be found in Tahrikh-e-Lahore, written by Kanhaiya Lal about a Bhadrakali Mandir, which was the main attraction of the town. 

On every Baisakhi, a major festival was celebrated at this temple. Baisakhi also has religious significance for the Sikhs community as the foundation of the Panth Khalsa on this day by the Guru Gobind. There was a place dedicated in town especially for this festival. It used to have a large pond and an old Banyan tree on the temple premises. Luckily, this Banyan tree still standing at this place. However, the pond disappeared from the scenes due to the construction of newly built houses. 

Before Pakistan came into being, the land of Niaz Baig belongs to Bhadrakali Mandir. The area has somehow an equal population of Sikh, Muslim, and Hindu communities. After 1947 most of the houses of this area allotted to migrated Mewati families. An old man of this cast told us that this place has many fruit gardens in which many seasonal fruits were available used to be available some sixty years back. 

 

Around the Bhadrakali temple, many ancillaries’ buildings used to exist; also, there were four small temples (remains of one which still can be found), a step-well (Baoli),

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A Historical Haveli in Kanjrur, Narowal (2020)

 

 Saturday, 09 August 2020 (Date of Visit)

(All pictures and the writeup is author integral property, please respect copyright)

 

Last year, a friend of mine shared a picture of a pre-partition Haveli located in the small town of Kanjrur. Upon seeing the picture, I was immediately struck by its castle-like appearance.

As someone who has been deeply interested in historical architecture in Pakistan for years, I found it surprising that I had never come across this building before. Intrigued, I decided to visit the site of this magnificent Haveli the very next day.

Kanjrur is a union council in Tehsil Shakargarh, Narowal district. The town derives its name from a prominent Sufi figure known as Kanju Peer, whose tomb is located in the village.

Situated approximately 15 kilometers from Narowal city, Kanjrur is positioned on the banks of the Basantar River. The Basantar River is a tributary of the Ravi River that flows through Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. It holds historical significance as it was the site of the Battle of Basantar, a crucial battle fought during the Indo-Pakistani War of 1971 in the western sector of India (December 4–16, 1971).

The construction of this grand Haveli in Kanjrur is attributed to a wealthy Hindu landlord named Dewan Chand. It is believed that the Haveli was built in the early 19th century, making it over a hundred years old. Prior to the partition of India, a substantial number of Hindu families resided in Kanjrur, and the village was home to four Hindu temples.

According to local accounts, Dewan Chand erected this magnificent mansion for his family. The outer walls of the Haveli are heavily fortified, featuring bastions at each corner and reaching a width of 7 feet at certain points. The approximate dimensions of the Haveli are 100 x 102 feet. The Haveli consists of three stories and underground compartments, with the height of the outer facade and boundary walls measuring over 35 feet. In the middle of the outer facade, a Jharoka (balcony) was once situated, providing a view of the outside. Unfortunately, the garden and gateway in front of the Haveli have been destroyed over time.

Additionally, the Haveli contains an escape tunnel beneath the front wall, which was constructed for emergency purposes. Markings of bullets can also be observed on the front elevation, hinting at a mysterious history that begs further investigation.

It is worth noting that most parts of Kanjrur, including this Haveli, are situated atop an ancient mound, adding to the historical allure of the site.

Dewan Chand, known for his philanthropy, also established a school in the town, which still exists to this day. Dewan Chand's family migrated to India before the partition of 1947. Currently, the Haveli is inhabited by several families who have settled there after their own migrations. Unfortunately, the building suffered significant damage during the 2005 earthquake.

The Haveli of Kanjrur stands as a testament to the architectural and historical heritage of the region, drawing visitors with its imposing structure and fascinating past.

Crossing Basanter River