Thursday, 18 February 2021

Memories of meeting with Great Mike Horn during K2 Base camp Trek 2015

2015

The trek from Jhula to Paiyue presented a moderate challenge, yet the rugged terrain and long hikes made it quite strenuous. I found myself hiking alone, determined to reach the campsite of Paiyue as quickly as possible. Suddenly, to my astonishment, I spotted a figure approaching from the opposite direction. With a burst of excitement, I called out, "Is that Mike Horn?" To my delight, he responded, "Yes, it is." Overwhelmed by the moment, I embraced him and eagerly shared how his videos had showcased Pakistan's true beauty to the world. His surprised expression spoke volumes when I conveyed the immense love and respect he had garnered in Pakistan.

Unfortunately, I hadn't brought a camera with me, and my friends were trailing about a kilometer behind us. Despite these setbacks, I mustered the courage to request a picture with Mike Horn and expressed my desire to hike alongside him. He graciously agreed, but humorously remarked that I would have to cover double the distance. Undeterred, I even contemplated going back to Askole just to capture that moment with him. His smile and reassuring pat on my shoulders gave me the confidence to continue. Together, we embarked on the hike.

As we trekked side by side, Mike Horn proved to be an extraordinary individual. He passionately expressed his belief that the foreign media often portrayed an inaccurate and misleading image of Pakistan, while emphasizing the country's innate beauty and warmth. He even mentioned the possibility of joining the Pakistan cricket team as a consultant, having worked with Waseem Akram for the Kolkata Knight Riders for three years. He shared his experience as a consultant for the South African cricket team and his presence during the World Cup match where Pakistan emerged victorious, albeit reluctantly admitting his disappointment in South Africa's defeat. Additionally, he revealed plans to return to Pakistan in winter to undertake the daunting challenge of climbing Nanga Parbat.

The encounter with Mike Horn during that arduous hike left an indelible impression on me. His genuine admiration for Pakistan and his relentless pursuit of adventure showcased his remarkable character. We walked together, bound by a shared appreciation for nature's wonders and a desire to challenge ourselves.





Tuesday, 16 February 2021

Gurdwara Hado Sahari & Memories of Baba Virsa Singh Virik (2021)

 Date of visit: 31 January 2021

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)


Gurdwara Building & Grave on right

In August 1947, when, after three hundred years in India, the British finally left, the subcontinent was partitioned into two independent nation-states: Hindu-majority India and Muslim-majority Pakistan. Immediately, there began one of the greatest migrations in human history, as millions of Muslims trekked to West and East Pakistan (the latter is now known as Bangladesh) while millions of Hindus and Sikhs headed in the opposite direction. Many hundreds of thousands never made it.

Across the Indian subcontinent, communities that had coexisted for almost a millennium attacked each other in a terrifying outbreak of sectarian violence, with Hindus and Sikhs on one side and Muslims on the other—a mutual genocide as unexpected as it was unprecedented. In Punjab and Bengal—provinces abutting India’s borders with West and East Pakistan, respectively—the carnage was especially intense, with massacres, arson, forced conversions, mass abductions, and savage sexual violence. Some seventy-five thousand women were raped, and many of them were then disfigured or dismembered.

My  article is a retrospection of memories of Baba Virsa Singh Virik about Hado Sahari village of district Kasur in Pakistan, where he was born in 1931 and lives there till the partition of 1947.

Hado Sahari village is located 7 kilometers from district Kasur and 50 kilometers from Lahore city. It lies on a natural mound.  Baba Virsa Singh was born in a Sikh Jatt family, for centuries his family's only source of living was farming and livestock. Before the partitioning of British India, in Hado Sahari village mostly Virik Jut’s clan used to live.

Along Hado Sahari there were four other villages of Virik Jut’s (Nathoke, Gagga, and he has forgotten the name of one village of Virk’s) in Lahore. In the proximity of Hado Sahari, most of the villages were of Bhullar Jut’s.  Baba Virsa Singh never went to school, every day he drew his cattle to Kot Murad in Kasur for Grazing and returns home in the evening.

He shared an interesting story about how his ancestors came to this village and decide to settle here.  Five generations back, a boy name Sahari lives with his widow mother in a village in Sheikhupura. 

At that time in villages, there used to be only one oil mill.  Oil sold and given to every home on their turn, that is once a week. The oil mill owner maintains a weekly register for that.

One day some guests have arrived at Sahari's house, his mother sends him to the oil mill shop to bring oil, so she could be able to cook some food for his guests. It was not the Sahari family's turn of the day of getting oil, the oil mill the owner refused and returns him home empty-handed.  The guests were hungry, Sahari's mother did not want to send them without serving food, so she came along his son to the oil mill shop and requested him to lend him the oil of somebody else turn and gave them oil back on their turn.

The person whose turn of getting oil was dew that day came to the oil mill shop and when he came to know that his turn oil taken by somebody else, he got angry and called Sahari's mother in the Panchayat (villagers court) the next day. The Sahari's mother was embarrassed in front of Panchayat and warned for doing such an act again in the future. She took this insult to heart, grabbed his son along, and left the village in the south direction at night. Both the mother and son walked for many days and reached the place where the present village of Hado Sahari is located. They decided to settle here.

There are two Villages by the same name i.e., Sahari in tehsil and district Kasur, and have earned the name Hado Sahari (Hardo in ‘Persian’ means both). The Gurdwara Sahari Pir is in the outskirt of the Village and there is a grave present adjacent to it. The present custodian of this place told this grave to belong to Sahari Pir. It was interesting for me to find a Sikh Gurudwara and Grave at the same place as both are symbols of two different religions.

How the young Sahari turned to 'Sahari Pir' is also a very interesting story and shared by Baba Virsa Singh Virik in his oral interview. (one can find on YouTube, 'Hardo Sahari, Kasur to Sanghe, Mansha by Sanwal Dhami, santalinama-252).

Sahari was a Sikh Virk Jatt, after settling in the village he started his living by harvesting a few seasonal vegetables and having few domestic animals.

If you travel to Kasur there is a small town named Basti Sheikh Bhago present, here the tomb of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A is still standing. This shrine is one of the oldest in Kasur. Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan RA settled in the area even a century earlier than Baba Bullah Shah. This shrine is roughly 7 kilometers from the present Hado Sahari village.

Tomb of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A


One-night thieves came to Hado Sahari and stole most of the domestic animals from the village and took them to the nearest town of Kot Murad in Kasur.

Sahari's animals were also among the stolen, along with the other villagers he also started searching and found out few clues that their animal was taken to Kot Murad. The thieves, who stole the animal found that villagers reached after them. It was an era of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A living in Kot Murad khan.  The thieves reached to the Sheikh and persuaded repentance for their sin and promised they will leave stealing in the future if their lives were protected from villagers.  Which he accepted, and with his manifestation, he changed the looks of animals. The stolen animals were shown to villagers and Sahari; the villagers could not guess that these were their animal and were returning in despair but Sahari came in front of Hazrat and asked what bribe he took from the thieves to change the looks of animals. Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A smiled and said only a true soul can found this secret. Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A also announced to Sahari that he will become a saint in the future. 

Mosque of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A

Mosque of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A

Mosque of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A


Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R. A’s statement went true in future years, Sahari becomes a saint and people still know his name by Pir Sahari Chhina. Sahari was born in the Sikh Virik Jatt family when he died his last will was that his body shall be buried instead of cremation. Hence a controversy arose between Sikhs and Muslims that whether Sahari died as a Muslim or Sikh.

According to Sikh's, Pir Sahari Chhina Jatt became a great saint after becoming a Sikh of Guru Amar Das Ji and the Gurdwara built in this memory. The building is strong being new. 85 ghumaon of land granted to the Gurdwara is in this Village. The Muslims of the Village call this place Sahari Pir. A sheet of cloth with Quranic verses covers his grave now and Muslim Villagers recite Quran. A fair is held annually. Muslim fakir_ looks after the Shrine.

Now come to Baba Virsa Singh Virik during the partition of 1947 three of his father's brothers were murdered, he lost all his property, he luckily crossed the border with his elder sister. He is now living a happy life with his grandchildren in the village of Varnala in Indian Punjab. He stills remember his early days of his life in Hado Sahari village. Many years back after partition, he sent a letter to Hado Sahari's postal address, that he is coming to Lahore for a religious tour from India and if somebody knows him from the village should come to meet him.  At the partition, an eight-year boy from his family was left behind in the village. The boy converted his faith to Muslim, so his life was forgiven. He still remembers Baba Virsa Singh and after receiving his letter he took all his family to Lahore to welcome Baba Virsa. It was the time of the '80s, unfortunately, Baba Virsa Singh Virik was mistakenly arrested last minute before coming to Pakistan under the charges that he is a member of the Akali movement. His host that arrived from his native village of Hado Sahari waited for him for fifteen days, but he was not able to come.

Baba Virsa Singh Virik never able to come to Pakistan again to see his birthplace  but he still remembers every inch of that village.








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Friday, 12 February 2021

Fatmal Marrhi of Kanganpur (2021)

 

Date of visit: 31 January 2021

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)


Elevation of Edifice and double story elegant gateway


 

Elevation of Samadhi from the second floor of two story gateway

A tall edifice by the name of Fatmal Marrhi with elegant double story entrance gateway standing 200m south of the village of the same name, 1 km north-west of village Patuke, 500 meters south of an abandoned canal khanwala branch, 3.5 km north-west of Kanganpur (Rasool pur).

District: - Kasur

Tehsil: - Chunian

Mauza/Khasra: Fatmal



 

Description of Architectural Elements of Structure: -

 

Plan, Ground, and above: -

Octagonal melon-shaped ribbed dome.

 

External Description: - 

 

Main Entrance. facade and other sides

The Fatmal Marrhi is constructed on a 1m high square platform measuring 16 x16m. A double story gateway has been constructed on the eastern side of the platform. The main entrance has been provided through a cusped arched opening within an architrave surmounted by archivolt and flanked by octagonal bastions. The upper story consists of three pavilions, one each on bastions and one above the entrance structure. The arcuate (bent in the forms of the bow) bastion pavilions are crowned with ribbed cupolas and eaves above the entablatures, while the central pavilion has three arched openings on the eastern side and one each on the remaining three sides. The top is provided by a curved eave followed by a sail (passage vault). Access to the upper pavilion has been provided through open stairways located on the southern and western sides. The entrance arch spandrels and curvature below the eaves are decorated with fresco design. 

 

The main structure of the Marrhi is octagonal in plan. From the outside, it looks like a double story building due to a continuous projected hand above the large arched panels. Each side of the octagon has a large rectangular recessed frame having a multicusped blind arch resting on pilasters and another recessed rectangular frame inside the blind arch. Four entrances have been provided from four rectangular frames within blind arches. The larger frames are flanked with small niches on each side. The portion above the projected band has a pilaster on each corner. The side of the octagon is decorated with false aches in the form of a projection niche in the middle and two holes on the side. The top of the wall has an eave following the octagon. Parapet has a series of pinnacles on it. The melon-shaped dome has been from a circular drum. Finial of the dome is missing.

 

Decoration and Inscriptions: -

 

The Fatmal Marri has been lavishly decorated with colorful fresco paintings on the spandrels of the multicusped blind arches which have been decorated in arabesque style. Space on both sides of these arches has frames decorated with the designs of flowers and the frames above the arches depict battle scenes of war and recreational activities such as dancing, musical festivities, and hunting. The pendentive is also decorated with such scenes and floral design. 


Fresco Painting image 1

Fresco Painting image 2

Fresco Paiting image 3

Image taken from inside the Samadhi

Fresco Paiting 

Fresco Paiting

The edifice has doors provided at all four corners, destroyed by vandalism 

It seems that fire is used inside the edifice

most of the fresco paintings destroyed 

Fresco painting 

Fresco Paiting

Floral Paiting 


Floral painting

floral painting

Floral Painting

View from Inside Samadhi

Floral Painting


 

Interior Descriptions:

 

Roof/Dome(s)

The ceiling of the central pavilion is decorated with fresco paintings depicting the floral design. Murals depicting human figures and other scenes are the portion above the arches. The cupolas on the gateway bastion are also decorated with sunflower motifs. The dome had floral decoration, most of which has faded away with time.

View of two story entrance gate way

Entrance gateway

View of Main Building

Roof view Mural paintings


 

Well, /Pond: A water well and the pond is found south of the gateway.

 

On the wall of the well, a commemorative plaque is present but could not be able to read it. 

 

Escape Tunnel: - Beneath the main edifice an escape tunnel is present. It ends 300 meters south of the complex. With the time it collapsed, we could not investigate it personally. 

 

Period and Current Condition: -

 

There is an inscription writing found over the main entrance arched gateway but not in a condition of decipherability. Unfortunately, locals who live in close villages belong to migratory families who settled here after the India partition of 1947. They do not know anything about the history of this place. Hence exact period and year this place is constructed are unknown. 

From building architecture, it looks it belongs to the late eighteenth century. 

Like many other historical structures, the Fatmal Marrhi is also being near to vanish because of vandalism, neglect of relevant departments, and time to time diggings by treasure hunters. 

 

 








Pond 

Well