The Last Hindu Temple of Haveli Lakha and History of the Town

2023

Haveli Lakha is a town in the Okara District of the Punjab province in Pakistan. The history of the city dates to the Mughal Empire. The town was believed to be founded by a Mughal emperor named Akbar. During the British colonial era, Haveli Lakha was a part of the Montgomery district.

The name "Haveli Lakha" is derived from two words: "Haveli" and "Lakha". "Haveli" is a Persian word that means "mansion" or "palace", while "Lakha" is a Punjabi word that means "one hundred thousand". According to local tradition, the town was named after a wealthy person named Lakha, who owned a large mansion in the area.

In the 18th century, the Sikhs under the leadership of Bhangi Misl captured Haveli Lakha and made it a part of their territory. Later, the town was ruled by the British Raj after they annexed Punjab in the mid-19th century.

In the 19th century, Haveli Lakha became an important center of agriculture and commerce. The town was known for its cotton and wheat production, and it had a thriving market where traders from nearby towns and villages came to buy and sell goods.

After the partition of India in 1947, Haveli Lakha became a part of Pakistan. Today, the town is a bustling urban center with a growing population and a vibrant economy.

Before the partition of 1947, a diverse community comprising different religions used to live in Haveli Lakha. One still can find remains of a number of elegant pre-partition Hindu buildings inside the city. Which are now mostly occupied by the migratory families that settle here since the partition of 1947. In Haveli Lakha one pre-partition Hindu Temple is still present inside the Government Elementary School No.2. The school has also name Mandar Wala School.  After partition, no Hindu family left in Haveli Lakha, and the temple was used as a school building. With the passage of time cracks appeared and with no care and maintenance the heritage of Lakha is left in a decrepit state.

The structure consists of a single-story square “Sanctum” which was designed for placing the housing deity. In the sanctum room, a corner squinches portion is filled with extended flower bouquet elements made of lime. Around all four sides of the sanctum assembly hall for devotees present in Hindu terminology it is called “Ayatana”

From the square sanctum structure, the main temple curvilinear spire (tower, sikhara) is raised, which is a common type of northern Indian Shrine (Latinas). For the construction of the curvilinear spire, small dimensions of bricks are used which are different from the ground floor of the temple.

A crowning ornament on the top of the shikara is present; it is called “Amalaki” in Hindu terminology this support an embedded spire that might be gold plated at the start of its construction.

On the external walls of temples, you will see a double facet and a vertical offset projection. In Hindu temple architecture, it is called “ratha”.

The Indus Valley State Railway (IVSR)

The Indus Valley State Railway was a narrow-gauge railway system that operated in the Sindh province of present-day Pakistan during the early 20th century. The railway was built to serve the agricultural areas of the lower Indus Valley and was primarily used to transport crops such as cotton, wheat, and rice.

The Indus Valley State Railway was established in 1901 by the British Indian government and operated until 1929 when it was merged with the North Western State Railway. The railway had a total length of about 130 miles (209 kilometers) and connected the cities of Hyderabad, Tando Adam, and Mirpur Khas.

The railway was originally built with 2 ft 6 in (762 mm) narrow-gauge tracks but was later converted to 3 ft 6 in (1,067 mm) gauge tracks in order to improve its efficiency. The railway also had a number of steam locomotives, which were later replaced by diesel locomotives in the 1950s.

Today, the Indus Valley State Railway is no longer in operation, but the railway tracks and some of the historic locomotives can still be seen in museums in Pakistan. The railway is considered to be an important part of Pakistan's railway heritage and a testament to the country's colonial history.

History of Narrow Gauge Railways tracks in Pakistan

Pakistan inherited a vast network of narrow-gauge railways from the British colonial era, which connected various parts of the country. These lines were mainly built to transport goods and raw materials like coal, cotton, and wheat.

The narrow-gauge railway tracks in Pakistan were primarily laid in the mountainous regions of the country, where standard-gauge tracks were impractical due to the terrain. Some of the famous narrow-gauge railway lines in Pakistan include the Khyber Pass Railway, which connects Peshawar to Landi Kotal, and the Bolan Pass Railway, which connects Quetta to Sibi.

However, over the years, many of these narrow-gauge railways have become outdated and uneconomical, leading to their closure. Today, only a few narrow-gauge railway tracks are operational in Pakistan, mainly used for tourist purposes.

Overall, the narrow-gauge railway tracks in Pakistan have a rich history and played a significant role in the country's development, especially in the early days of its existence. However, their relevance has diminished over the years due to technological advancements and changes in transportation trends.

The narrower gauge enables tighter curves to be taken, especially in valleys and in generally difficult terrain. It is also shorter than normal railways, thus requiring less space at train stations.

Mari-Indus Railway (Bannu-Tank line)

Daud Khel–Lakki Marwat Branch Line –was one of several branch lines in Pakistan, operated and maintained by Pakistan Railways. The line began at Daud Khel Junction and ended at Lakki Marwat Junction. The total length of this railway line was 92 kilometers (57 mi) with 7 railway stations. It was known by locals as "choti rail" since it was the only 762 mm (2 ft 6 in) narrow gauge railway in the country. The line was dismantled in 1995. The rail line was originally built by NWR as the Trans–Indus Railway in 1913, which extended from Kalabagh station to Bannu station. The line was then further extended in 1916 to reach Tank Junction station, which today is part of the Bannu–Tank Branch Line. The line was also sometimes referred to as the Mari-Indus Railway.

Narrow gauge railway bridge on Indus at Kalabagh

Narrow gauge railway bridge on Indus at Kalabagh

Narrow gauge railway bridge on Indus at Kalabagh

Narrow gauge railway bridge on Indus at Kalabagh

Pakistan Railway Network Map

Mari Indus Railway 

Kalabagh Bridge over Indus

Kalabagh Bridge

Mari Indus Railway Station

Mari Indus Railway Station

Mari Indus Railway Station 

Closure of Narrow gauge

• Zhob Valley Railway (Boston–Zhob), a 294-kilometer narrow gauge railway, closed in 1985 and was dismantled in 2008.
• Dandot Light Railway, 10-kilometer narrow gauge railway, closed in 1996.
• Daud Khel–Lakki Marwat Branch Line, 144 km narrow gauge railway, constructed in 1913, dismantled in 1995.
• Bannu–Tank Branch Line, a 122-kilometer narrow gauge railway, constructed in 1913, was dismantled in 1995.
• Kohat–Thal Railway, 100-kilometer narrow gauge railway, constructed in 1903, was abandoned in 1991.

Rescuing and giving Refuge to Dhoni Chand Bhagat & Leelawanti ( 1947 Partition Stories)

My forefathers used to live in Rangpura Sialkot for the last three hundred years. In 1947, Pakistan came into being, at that  time my father was just five years old. During these days his elder brother was a renowned dispenser doctor and was practicing in Rangpura, he was very famous in society as well. My grandfather was working in Indian Railways in those days. My grandfather's four other brothers and several cousins also used to live in Rangpura at that time.

The partition led to the forced migration of millions of people across the newly drawn borders. Hindus and Sikhs migrated to India from Pakistan, while Muslims migrated to Pakistan from India.

Riots and violence also started in Rangpura, Muslims were the majority in Sialkot at that time. People were attacked and killed based on their religious affiliation.

Dhoni Chand Bhagat was a Hindu, who used to live in Rangpura, his life was also at risk when a mob came after him for killing, my father's elder brother Dr. Abbas Baig came to his rescue and bring him to his home and gave him refuge in a barn.

Dhoni Chand Bhagat was not the only Hindu to whom my uncle had given refuge in his home. During partition days, Leelawanti the soul sister (منہ بولی بہن) to my uncle, also stayed in our Rangpura home for months. In haste her family left her alone in Sialkot  Later she left for Ludhiana and came back once after many years with her son to meet my uncle. My father was also grown up till then and she has a glimpse of Leelawanti in his mind and at first instance, she recognized her. 'Leelawanti Baji' were the first words that came from his mouth, she met everybody with affection and that was also her last visit to Pakistan.

Dhoni Chand Bhagat decided to stay in Pakistan. After many years of partition of Hindustan, he died in Sialkot. My father and uncle attended his cremation ceremony and used to share that story with me as well. There was a place named Marian used to present near Pul Aik in Sialkot where the cremation of the deceased Hindu's bodies took place.  The body of Dhoni Chand was washed and dressed in new clothes and then placed on a bier. The funeral procession is led by his eldest son. As the procession makes its way to the cremation ground, prayers and hymns were recited also Patasa (Sweet), and coins were distributed among kids, also there was a flute and drum player present in the procession. 

At the cremation ground, the body was placed on the funeral pyre made of wood. The eldest son of Dhoni Chand Bhagat lighted the pyre, and the body was consumed by the flames. My father told me the pyre was remain in flames for three days  After the cremation, the ashes were collected and sent to be in a sacred Ganga.

The partition of India remains one of the most tragic and violent events in modern history, and its legacy continues to be felt today. However, I feel a bit proud of my forefathers that they did not become part of this violence and helped other humans in need without considering their different religious affiliations. 

 

Old Mai ka Mandir, Katri Bawa Walled City of Lahore, Lahore

 January 20, 2013

A pre-partition temple stands in Katri Bawa inside the walled city of Lahore. Not much known about the history of this temple.

The famous Halwa of Kalabagh

In #Kalabagh streets the local sweet is Halwa made from semolina in fat like ghee or oil, and adding a sweetener like sugar syrup, its taste, and looks are totally different from the Doda the commonly found Halwa on the eastern bank cities of Indus.

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐇𝐈𝐒𝐓𝐎𝐑𝐈𝐂𝐀𝐋 𝐊𝐀𝐋𝐀𝐁𝐀𝐆𝐇 𝐑𝐀𝐈𝐋𝐖𝐀𝐘 𝐁𝐑𝐈𝐃𝐆𝐄 𝐎𝐅 𝐁𝐑𝐈𝐓𝐈𝐒𝐇 𝐄𝐑𝐀 1927

24th February 2018

Kalabagh Bridge is a historic bridge located in the Punjab province of Pakistan, spanning over the Indus River near the town of Kalabagh. The bridge was constructed during the British colonial era in 1927-28 to connect the districts of Mianwali and Dera Ismail Khan.

The bridge was designed by Sir Alexander Rendel, a British engineer who was also responsible for the construction of other notable bridges in India, including the Lansdowne Bridge in Sukkur and the Godavari Bridge in Rajahmundry.

At the time of its construction, the Kalabagh Bridge was considered to be a major engineering feat, as it was one of the longest bridges in the region, with a total length of 1,300 meters. The bridge consisted of 14 spans, each measuring 91 meters in length, and was built using reinforced concrete.

HISTORY FROM THE ARCHIVES 

The construction of a bridge over the Indus at or near Kalabagh was considered for many years. So the first surveys were carried out in 1888 followed by an investigation from 1919 to 1924. Finally, in 1927 the project costing Rs. 40.36 lac was approved for construction. No provision for the roadway was made. The bridge carried a single-line broad gauge railway.

The bridge will connect the broad gauge (5-6″) system of the railway on the east of the Indus with narrow gauge (2_6″) to the west. With the completion of the bridge, an alternative and direct route is available from Lahore to Waziristan. Commercially and strategically the bridge will play an important role.

The site of the bridge is about 1.25 miles below the gorge from which the Indus emerges into the plains) the course of the river at this site is stable. The character of the river bed at this site is such that from the left (Mari) bank half the width of the bed consists of an uppermost layer of fine sand covering a layer of coarser and sharper sand with small pebbles. The uppermost layers of sand disappear as the deep water channel is unapproached. Below this is a compact stratum averaging 45″ thick of boulders set hard in the sand. The bed of the deep water channel in the other half of the river consists of loose pebbles and boulders above the compact boulder bed. An alternative proposal of a combined weir for Thal canal head works and a railway bridge was earlier rejected mainly because the site of the weir would be 4500′ long instead of 2500′ at the adopted site.

The Punjab irrigation records showed that an extraordinarily high flood occurred in the year 1878, which was calculated as from 757,000 to 770,000 cusecs. For the design of the bridge, the maximum flood was taken as 8 lac cusecs. But there occurred in 1929 a flood of higher magnitude during the currency of work and the help at the bridge site rose to 705.3′. It. Was estimated as 12,00,000 cusecs.

The design was changed accordingly, adopting 12 lac cusecs as peak flood discharge. Waterway provided initially consisted of 9 spans of 250′ clear (263′ center to center of piers). After the flood of 1929, it was decided that the bridge should be extended to cover the full width of the river between the Mari and Kalabagh banks. This entailed an extension of the bridge at the Mari end by 4 spans of 175’_4″ c/c. Girders of standard m.l. 1926 (for 22.5-ton axle loads and a train of 2.3 tons per foot run behind the engine) are designed to carry a single broad gauge line of railway. The live load is carried directly on an open flooring of cross girders and stringers by n-type trough trusses with curved top chords and eight sub-divided panels, the maximum depth of the truss being 30-7.5″. The load is transmitted to the piers through knuckle bearings. Temperature and elastic extension are provided for by roller bearings at one end of each span, there being one pair of fixed and one pair of roller bearings on each pier. Piers was initially designed to be made of concrete blocks but later it was intended to construct mass concrete 1:2.5:5 to avoid handling of blocks. Piers will rest on 2 feet-thick 1:2:4 reinforced concrete base keyed to the top of wells. The maximum intensity of pressure at the base of the pier is 9.5 tons per square foot.

The wells were of twin octagonal type 38′-3″ long by 22′.1.5″ wide. The steining is 6 11.75″ thick, leaving two circular dredging holes each 8 2″ in diameter. The depth of wells fixed were those considered probable safe depths. Deep water wells were taken 40ft into the boulder stratum leaving 36 ft of the well and pier exposed at high flood levels. As some of the wells had to be sunk in deep water and as it was considered that pneumatic sinking would be necessary after the lighter soil had been penetrated and the compact boulder stratum encountered, all well

Curbs took the form of caissons which would permit the attachment of air domes and shafts for pneumatic work. Initially, ten wells were proposed to be sunk. But after the addition of 4 spans, three more wells were added.

Position at the end of the working season 1928-29 was that sinking of 5 wells was complete. The wells were plugged, r.c pier footing and 5 6″ of pier masonry were built. The sinking of 4 more wells was in progress whereas work on the 10th well was not commenced. The characteristic feature of the season's work was the realization of the necessity for pneumatic sinking. It became evident to the contractor that opens dredging in the compact boulder stratum gave very slow progress and was in fact impossible below a certain level. Therefore by march, 1929, the contractors had obtained a pneumatic sinking set. Precaution against scour was taken by protecting wells with pitching. This was necessitated by a flood of 1929 which had caused the tilting of wells.