Gurdwara Bhai Bannu

 23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

Guru Arjan Sahib Ji, the revered fifth Guru of the Sikhs, embodied a profound devotion to God, exemplified selfless service, and embraced universal love. His divine wisdom and spiritual excellence were priceless treasures that he generously shared with society. Guru Arjan Sahib Ji stood resolute in upholding his principles, ultimately sacrificing his own life and attaining a martyrdom that remains unparalleled in the annals of human history.

The place where Bhai Bannu Ji, a devoted disciple of Sat Gur Arjan Sahib Ji, resided was located at this sacred site. It was here that the revered 'Bhai Bannu wali bir (volume) of Granth Sahib' was diligently preserved in book form.

During the reign of Sikh rulers, under the noble command of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, an awe-inspiring Gurdwara was constructed adjacent to the holy tank. Regrettably, a significant portion of the endowed land later fell into the possession of priests. Nonetheless, this magnificent darbar continues to exist, despite the accumulating dust on the once-vibrant tank. Outside the Gurdwara, a bustling vegetable market has emerged, obscuring its serene surroundings. The walls of the Gurdwara are adorned with exquisite floral frescoes, adding to its beauty and splendor.

For further exploration and detailed insights into this significant Gurdwara, we have the book 'Historical Sikh Shrines in Pakistan' by Iqbal Qaiser available in our library.

Bhai Bhanu, an ardent Sikh during the time of Guru Arjan, earned the honorable title of Bhagat (devotee) due to his unwavering piety and devotion. Guru Arjan Sahib Ji appointed him as a messenger to spread the enlightening teachings of Guru Nanak in Muzang, Lahore. Through his soul-stirring kirtan (devotional singing) and profound exposition of sacred scriptures, Bhai Bhanu, as eloquently described in Bhai Mani Singh's "Sikhan di Bhagat Mala," successfully inspired numerous individuals to embrace the sublime path of Sikhism and its way of life.

Black-winged Stilt in aerial combat with Crow

Lahore 

 

The elegant Black-winged Stilts and the cunning crows engage in intriguing encounters. While Black-winged Stilts are not designed for aggressive physical combat like chickens and wildfowl, their graceful aerial maneuvers are usually enough to deter challengers. However, if a passing gull provokes them, the stilts can use their sharp bills to strike where it hurts. Despite this, they are no match for a determined crow seeking a meal.

 

Governor Kirpa Ram of Kashmir: Triumphs, Trials, and the Forgotten Baradari of Kunjah

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

Diwan Mohkam Chand, a prominent figure in Punjab's history, held the position of chief minister (Diwan) under Maharaja Ranjit Singh during the Sikh Empire. His contributions were instrumental in shaping the political and administrative landscape of Punjab during a crucial era.

In December 1827, Maharaja Ranjit Singh appointed Diwan Mohkam Chand's grandson, Diwan Kirpa Ram, as the governor of Kashmir. Kirpa Ram's responsibilities included paying an annual tribute of 26 lakhs of rupees in cash, along with pashmina and shawl's worth 14 lakhs. Prior to this appointment, Kirpa Ram had held significant positions in Hazara and the Jalandhar Doab. Historian Griffin commended both father and son, recognizing them as exceptional governors of Kashmir. Known for their integrity and incorruptibility, they embarked on notable construction projects and established breathtaking gardens in Srinagar.

During Kirpa Ram's governorship, Kashmir faced several challenges. In 1828, a devastating earthquake struck, causing extensive damage to buildings and houses. Subsequently, a cholera epidemic further compounded the region's troubles. Additionally, rebellions led by the Bambas and Kakkas, instigated by Sayyid Ahmad Brelvi, posed significant threats to Kirpa Ram's governance.

In January 1831, Raja Faiztalab Khan of Bhimbar was expelled from his state by Raja Dhian Singh. Seeking refuge, Faiztalab sought shelter with Kirpa Ram in Srinagar. Dhian Singh persuaded Maharaja Ranjit Singh to dismiss Kirpa Ram for his act of defiance. Consequently, Kirpa Ram was imprisoned in Lahore. Recognizing the detrimental consequences of punishing honest and capable officers, a group of influential nobles in the Lahore Durbar advocated for Kirpa Ram's release during a conference on February 22, 1831. Eventually, the Maharaja freed Kirpa Ram upon payment of a fine amounting to 9 lakhs of rupees for his defiance. Disillusioned by the experience, Kirpa Ram requested permission to join his father in Banaras, but his appeal was denied. Instead, he received permission to visit Jawalamukhi. As a gesture of consolation, the Maharaja granted him the jagir (landed estate) of Kunjah, which had an annual worth of 3 lakhs, on December 14, 1831.

However, Kirpa Ram's bitterness regarding his imprisonment persisted, as he regarded it as a stain on his honor. Rejecting the notion of being treated like a common criminal, he chose not to return to Lahore and crossed into British territory. Despite attempts by the Sandharivalia chiefs and Maharani Chand Kaur to bring him back to Punjab, Kirpa Ram never returned. He passed away in Haridwar on November 11, 1843.

Diwan Mohkam Chand, the progenitor of the Diwan family, gained renown as a skilled and successful general. It was largely due to his military prowess that Maharaja Ranjit Singh established himself as the sole ruler of Punjab. However, even Diwan Mohkam Chand's military achievements failed to shield his son Moti Ram and grandson Kirpa Ram from continuous mistreatment, fines, confiscations, and eventual downfall.

The narrative surrounding Diwan Mohkam Chand and his descendants reflects the intricate complexities and challenges faced by influential families at the Sikh Court during this period. It underscores the delicate balance of power, shifting alliances, and the profound impact of political rivalries on the lives of individuals.

Meanwhile, on the outskirts of Kunjah, an abandoned Baradari stands in a state of complete neglect. This deteriorating structure is believed to have been constructed by Kirpa Ram after his exile from Kashmir. Even in its current dilapidated condition, the Baradari whispers stories of its former grandeur. Previously surrounded by a thriving fruit orchard, the Baradari featured tall arched entrances on either side and wells drilled to ensure the orchard's irrigation. Built with small bricks, some parts of the building date back to the mid-19th century. Its architectural design closely resembles that of Mughal buildings found in Punjab.

Over time, the once-lush garden surrounding the Baradari disappeared, giving way to crops cultivated by the local community. While a few arches of the northern entrance gates still manage to stand, they have succumbed to weathering and neglect. It is perplexing to note the lack of concerted efforts by relevant heritage authorities to preserve this historically significant structure.

BARADARI:-

Gateway of Baradari Garden

Old Patwaari Office of Baghbanpura 2014

 February 28, 2014

In the old days, there was a Patwaari office in Baghbanpura Bazaar. It had a beautiful tall wooden arched gateway. Although the Patwaari office moved away from the bazaar, the gateway still remains, but unfortunately, it is in very poor condition.

Gitthian Porian, Baghbanpura Bazaar

March 04, 2014 

In a busy Pakistani bazaar, there was a special old arched gateway called Gitthian Porian. It was a beautiful piece of architecture in the heart of Baghbanpura, Lahore, representing the history and culture of the local community. However, as time moved forward, a new market was built in its place, changing the area forever. In 2014, I had the chance to take a photo of this significant arched gateway. 

 An old arch entrance in baghbanpura, this is combination of two types of arches, the inner one is inverted bell type arch and outer is ogiee circumferential arch

Called Gitthian Porian in local inside old Baghbanpura Lahore

A Hindu Shivala of Pindi Lala

Pindi Lala, a charming little village located just four kilometers south of Jaisak, finds itself nestled amidst a sprawling expanse of marshy wetlands. The village of Pindi Lala, along with its neighboring settlements, is enveloped by the serenity of this vast watery landscape. In close proximity to Pindi Lala, one encounters a small, dilapidated shivala, standing as a testament to the passage of time and neglect. a vibrant community of Hindus and Sikhs had made their home in this very area, coexisting harmoniously. However, with the mass migration to India that followed, the once-thriving settlement was left bereft of its former inhabitants, witnessing a significant decline in its fortunes.

Ruins of Sirkapp Fort Mianwali: A Glimpse into History

The Gazetteer of Mianwali, published in 1915, provides a fascinating account of the ruins of Sirkapp Fort. Perched upon a commanding ridge near the village of Nammal in the Khudri region, this fort stands as a testament to a bygone era. With its strategic location, nestled amidst three sides shielded by hill torrents, Sirkapp Fort is believed to have been the stronghold of Raja Sirkapp, a prominent ruler of the region who lived during the same period as Raja Risalu of Sialkot, ultimately meeting defeat at his hands.

Although time has taken its toll, remnants of the fort's outer wall still remain, albeit in a dilapidated state. The once-thriving enclosure, which likely housed a sizeable garrison, now lies in ruins, with fallen houses and heaps of intricately carved stones scattered about. Notably, the presence of ancient water lifts, constructed to transport water from the stream below to the hilltop, offers evidence of the fort's advanced engineering.

The Mianwali district has witnessed the convergence of three distinct waves of immigration from different directions. The Awans migrated from the northeast, the Jats and Biluches made their way up the Indus Valley from the south, and the Pathans arrived from the northwest. Presently, the Awans predominantly occupy the eastern part of the district known as Khudri, Pakhar, or Awankari. For nearly six centuries, they have been the primary inhabitants of this vast expanse, and it is plausible that they settled there following the Arab invasions of the seventh century.

However, the claim of the Awans to have originated from Arabia, though fervently held, lacks substantial proof. It is more likely that they migrated from the east and can trace their ancestry back to the Rajputs, who, due to intermarriage with lower clans, may have assimilated and abandoned their caste identity. This conjecture gains support from the fact that Phakar, a region within the district, was once a Rajput stronghold, as evidenced by the presence of Raja Sirkapp's fort atop the hillock overlooking Nammal. The legends surrounding Raja Sirkapp and his connections with Raja Risalu of Sialkot continue to be sung to this day, preserving the memory of a bygone era.

Exploring the ruins of Sirkapp Fort offers a captivating glimpse into the rich history of the Mianwali district. The remnants of this once-mighty fortress and the tales they inspire provide valuable insights into the cultural, architectural, and social aspects of the region's past. Preserving and studying these ruins can help us better understand the lives and legacies of the rulers and inhabitants who once thrived within the protective walls of Sirkapp Fort.