Phulra Fort, Fort Abbas Cholistan

22nd February, 2021

( All pictures are owned, kindly respect copyrights) 

 for text consulted  book 'Ancient Cholistan' by Dr. Muhammad Rafique Mughal

#Fortsincholistan

In the ancient chronicles of history, Phulra stands as a revered symbol of time's passage, its origins buried in the distant past long before the rise of the Vikas, the ancestors of Bhikaner, left their mark on the sands of time. By the year 1166 H., this age-old fortress had endured the trials of time, its once-majestic structure worn down, a mere shadow of its former glory. It was during this period of decline that Karam Khan Arbani, the descendant of Qaim Khan, the visionary behind Qaimpur, took up the noble cause of restoring Phulra to its former grandeur. With unwavering dedication, he meticulously repaired its crumbling walls, using sturdy bricks and mud, resurrecting the fort and breathing life back into its ancient stones.

Within Phulra's sturdy walls, near its western side, lay a remarkable marvel—a well made of solid materials, reaching an impressive depth of 118 feet and measuring 4 feet in circumference. This well, a rare find in the arid expanses of Cholistan, provided water as sweet as nectar, a precious lifeline in the midst of the barren land. The fort's corners were adorned with tall towers, each concealing an inner chamber, a testament to the clever planning of its builders. The north-western tower, constructed from enduring burnt bricks, stood as a silent witness, holding the secrets of centuries past.

In the south-eastern part of the fortress stood a three-story house, its upper floor transformed into a charming bungalow. Inscriptions on its weathered facade commemorated its master, Muhammad Akram Khan Daudpotra, who, in the holy month of Ramazan in the year 1166 H., declared his mastery over the palace, forever etching his name into Phulra's history. Just beyond the fortress's boundaries, three carefully crafted wells stood, their stucco walls protecting the precious treasure of sweet water—a true oasis amidst the harsh desert sands.

Beyond the tranquil echoes of Phulra, in the vast expanse stretching eastward from Bahawalpur to Bikaner, lay other settlements—Marot and Maujgarh. Despite the challenging terrain, these communities thrived, engaging in bustling trade with neighboring states. Phulra, perched on the very edge of Bikaner, boasted a lively marketplace, a bustling center of activity amid the otherwise quiet desert. The fortress, once a shining example of architectural brilliance, now stood as a reminder of its former glory, its once-proud walls weathered by the passage of time. A trench, now filled with the sands of ages, once encircled its perimeter—a poignant reminder of its past grandeur. The ramparts, rising high above the desert floor, showcased an artistic touch, their battlements adorned with tasteful decorations, a tribute to the craftsmanship of its long-forgotten builders.

Above these ancient stones, the Kiladar’s house soared, its silhouette creating a striking scene against the desert sky. From the northern perspective, the fortress presented a picturesque harmony—a seamless blend of ancient history and natural beauty. Here, the walls met the waters of a vast expanse, surrounding a small island adorned with lush trees—an oasis of calm amidst the harsh desert surroundings. Amidst the silent guardians of Phulra stood three powerful guns, their presence a reminder of the fortress's enduring vigilance—a sentinel guarding the sands of time.

In the esteemed records of Colonel Todd, Phulra and Marot emerged as crucial elements in the intricate tapestry of the region's history. Phulra, with its ancient lineage, earned its place among the 'Nakoti Marooka' during the earliest days of Pramara domination—a testament to its enduring importance through the ages. Colonel Todd, in his insightful reflections, speculated about ornate inscriptions belonging to the Jains, precious relics of a bygone era, waiting patiently to be discovered amidst the sands of Phulra. Within the hallowed confines of this fortress, Lakha Phoolni once resided—a name engraved in the annals of the desert's oldest traditions. In the shadow of Phulra's ancient walls, he lived—a contemporary of legends like Sid Rae of Auhulwara and Udyadit of Dhar—his legacy intertwined with the very stones of this venerable fortress, a living testament to the enduring spirit of gone era.

Meghwal: Guardians of Ancient Cholistan

In the heartland of northwest India and the sweeping landscapes of Pakistan, resides a resilient community known as the Meghwal, or Meghwar, with cultural roots delving deep into history. Traditionally, they were the stewards of the land, cultivating fields along the banks of the Hakra River, herding cattle, and mastering the art of weaving. The Meghwals also recognized as Megh and Meghraj, primarily practiced agriculture until the drying of the Hakra River forced them into the vast deserts of Cholistan, leaving behind a legacy of ancient traditions and crafts.

One of the hallmarks of the Meghwals is their exceptional contribution to the art of embroidery and the textile industry. Their skilled hands have woven stories into the fabric, preserving their heritage through intricate stitches and vibrant colors. Despite the winds of change, the Meghwals have held steadfast to their roots, their essence as the sons of the soil intact, even amidst the process of desertification that transformed their ancestral lands into grazing fields.

Cholistan, once a cradle of the great Indus civilization, has witnessed the Meghwals persevering, their customs and rituals untouched by time. While cultural exchanges have left a mark, their adherence to age-old traditions remains unyielding. It is their steadfastness in preserving their rituals that sets them apart, a testament to their rich cultural heritage.

Historically, the Meghwals were recognized as Chamars and fell within the Shudra category in the structured system of Hindu caste. They once resided in regions like Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Marwar, West Punjab, and along the sacred banks of the Yamuna River. Over time, they migrated to the present-day Cholistan, which was once part of the Ex-state of Bahawalpur (1727), possibly belonging to Bikaner or Jaisalmer. Census records from 1901 confirm their presence in Cholistan, where they are divided into two distinct groups: Sindhi Meghwals and Marwari Meghwals.

Despite sharing sub-castes such as Gundhair, Lelarh, Jaipal, Parhad, and Punwaar, the Meghwals prefer not to intermingle, even within their own communities. An intriguing cultural distinction emerges between the Sindhi and Marwari Meghwals, evidenced by their social practices and customs. While Sindhi Meghwals residing in Drewar Fort maintain their unique identity, they do not intermarry with Sindhi Meghwals from Yazman, showcasing the subtle yet significant differences within their community.

These resilient Meghwals have become an integral part of various regions, including present-day Bahawalpur in Pakistan, Thar in Sindh, and Rajasthan in India. In Cholistan, they primarily engage in shepherding and cobbling, their handmade shoes adored by the local Saraiki populace. It's important to note that the Meghwals are not refugees but the ancient custodians of Cholistan. Many of them are registered voters, and some have been allocated land by the Pakistani government for agricultural pursuits.

For those who ventured into urban areas, diverse professions such as masonry, carpentry, contracting, and mechanics have become their means of livelihood. Yet, amidst changing landscapes and evolving professions, the Meghwals have held on to the thread of their identity, speaking the Marwari language and passing down their rich heritage to future generations.

In the heart of Cholistan, the Meghwals stand tall as guardians of an ancient legacy, weaving the tapestry of their culture with resilience, skill, and unwavering pride. Their story is not just one of survival but a celebration of heritage, reminding the world of the enduring spirit of a community deeply rooted in the sands of time.

KHAAK NASHEEN

 

In the depths of time, where shadows play,

A soul emerged, in the twilight's gray,

Khaak Nasheen, in the dust, it lies,

A spirit bound, 'neath endless skies.

In every grain, a tale untold,

A saga vast, of courage bold,

Khaak Nasheen, in the earth, it dreams,

Of ancient lands and flowing streams.

Through eons past and ages gone,

It's seen the rise of many a dawn,

Khaak Nasheen, whispers of the earth,

In every whisper, wisdom's birth.

Beneath the sun, 'neath moon's soft glow,

In whispered winds that softly blow,

Khaak Nasheen, a melody profound,

In every echo, secrets found.

A metaphor for life's embrace,

In every heart, in every space,

Khaak Nasheen, the essence true,

In every me, in every you.

So let us learn from dust and stone,

From ancient tales, from times unknown,

Khaak Nasheen, in its silence, speaks,

Of strength in frailty, the spirit it seeks.

In every soul, the dust resides,

A truth that in our hearts abides,

Khaak Nasheen, a reminder kind,

In every moment, wisdom we find.

The tomb of Muhammad Maruf Khan Kehrani, the founder of Maujgarh Fort.

 Monday, ‎22 ‎February ‎2021, ‏‎11:21:50 am

Muhammad Maruf Khan Kehrani founded Mojgarh in the year 1743. His square tomb, adorned with glazed tiles and topped by a single dome, stands approximately 400 yards south of the fort. The construction of this tomb was completed by Maruf Khan's son, Jan Muhammad Khan, and his successor, Umar Khan, in 1757. 

Among the various iron plaques adorning its main door, one bears the names of Jan Muhammad Khan and Muhammad Maruf Khan, along with the gate's construction date in Persian (A.D. 1797) and the name of the builder, Sri Ram, an ironsmith. Mojgarh was a destination visited by notable individuals such as Elphinstone and Masson.

On our way back to Lahore, pressed for time, we captured pictures of the tomb from our car.

"Exploring the Kargah Buddha Site in Gilgit Baltistan: A Journey Back to 2003"

In 2003, during our university summer break, my friends and I planned a trip to Gilgit Baltistan. We found out there were discounted air tickets for students, but it was still expensive for us. So, we took an 18-hour Natco bus ride from Rawalpindi on Karakoram highway and finally reached Gilgit city.

To our surprise, the days were warm, but the nights were chilly. Gilgit city didn't have much to offer, except for relaxing by the river. A local suggested we visit a Buddhist site 9 kilometers away. We hitched a ride on a tractor trolley and a short hike led us to the Kargah Buddha site.

Kargah Buddha, locally known as Yashani, is a 15-feet tall statue carved on a mountain about 150 feet above the ground. It's a unique archaeological site, a 7th-century Buddha figure deeply carved into solid rock. This site is located outside Gilgit city and was once a center of Buddhism from the 3rd to the 11th century.

According to the renowned Japanese scholar Dr. Haruko Tsuchiya, this figure is of chambs style, distinct from Gandhara Art. It's a Buddhaisatta vs Maitreya figure, similar to the one found in Mulbelandakh. This site provided us with a fascinating glimpse into ancient Buddhist history amidst the stunning landscapes of Gilgit Baltistan.

Gilgit City

Kargah Nala

Kargah Nala

Hiking towards Kargah Nala