Elum Mountain, located in the Buner district, has held great significance for the Hindu community for centuries. Revered as a divine site and a place of pilgrimage, it is known as Jogian Sar among the locals and Ram Takhat (God's Throne) among Hindus. According to Hindu beliefs, Lord Ramchandra, the deity, spent time meditating on this mountain during his pilgrimage, known as binbas. As a religious practice, Hindus visit this sacred site every year in June, although the number of pilgrims has somewhat decreased in recent years.
The name Jogian Sar signifies the peak of the Jogis or Yogis, attributed to the presence of a few Hindu Sadhus (monks) who choose to meditate and reside on the mountain throughout the year. Atop this revered mountain, one can find the remains of ancient temples and a man-made pool carved entirely out of solid stone. This pool serves as a collection point for rainwater, considered holy by the Hindus.
A remarkable structure in the vicinity is the grand stupa of Amluk Dara, which, although now in ruins, still commands attention. Once standing as tall as the Pantheon in Rome, it is situated at the foot of Jogian Sar. This stupa was just one among many Buddhist structures in the kingdom of Udyāna, a prominent region along the Silk Road.
Amluk Dara lies on the route followed by Hindu devotees from lower Swat during their annual visit to the sacred peak of Mount Elum, which serves as a majestic backdrop to the stupa. Even during Buddhist times, the mountain's summit was a revered destination for pilgrims and may have been associated with legendary tales that have persisted to this day.
This area, owing to its strategic location connecting North India with Central Asia, has historically been of great importance. It often marked the borders of larger empires, with rulers from India unable to expand further north due to the mountainous terrain, while rulers from beyond the mountains faced challenges in extending their domains into the Indian plains. Notably, the renowned conqueror Alexander the Great waged significant battles in this region during his campaigns in Central Asia. His army marched east from the city he founded in Kapisa, known as Alexander on the Caucasus (Bagram), and fought numerous battles to gain control of the area. Some of these battles took place in the Swat valley, culminating in Alexander's successful siege of Aornos, an apparently impregnable mountain where locals had sought refuge. Identifying the precise location of this ancient battle has intrigued scholars for over a century, with Pir Sar and Mount Ilam being the most probable candidates.
Legend speaks of the Apalala, a serpent king residing in a high mountain lake in the Hindu Kush. Each year, the Apalala demanded a grain offering from the people residing in the Swat river valley, which flowed from the lake. When the people refused to make the offering, the Apalala flooded their lands as an act of revenge. Seeking help, the people turned to Buddha, who came to the valley, converted the Apalala, and left his footprint on a rock as a symbol of his visit. This footprint, now preserved in the local museum, serves as a reminder of Buddha's presence. The Swat River still floods, and for centuries, the valley remained a significant center of Buddhism. The choice of Amluk Dara and its central stupa was influenced by the landscape, with the fertile Swat valley portraying a picturesque setting with blooming flowers, lush hedges, and trees.
Scholars have highlighted the close connection between monasteries and the Indian concept of a garden, featuring pleasure groves and arbors. The establishment of monasteries often aimed to assimilate them into the cultural category of gardens. The selection of monastery sites considered the framing of views within the garden, which later travelers also noted. This careful selection of sacred spots added to the charm and allure of these places.
During its prime, news of Udyāna's Buddhist sites and temples spread along the Silk Road, carried by monks and merchants, with the mountain valley becoming part of the itinerary for pilgrim monks en route to India. The Chinese monk Faxian was among the first to record his visit to Udyāna around 403 AD. He stayed for several months, visiting the Buddha's footprint, the rock where Buddha dried his clothes, and the place where he converted the "wicked serpent." Faxian documented the presence of 400 Buddhist monasteries in the region.
The historical and religious significance of Elum Mountain, Jogian Sar, and the surrounding areas make them captivating destinations for pilgrims, scholars, and enthusiasts interested in exploring the cultural heritage and ancient wonders of the region.
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| Elum Mountain (Jogian Sar) in Background |
