Saturday, 09 August 2020 (Date of Visit)
(All pictures and the
writeup is author integral property, please respect copyright)
Last year, a friend of mine shared a picture of a
pre-partition Haveli located in the small town of Kanjrur. Upon seeing the
picture, I was immediately struck by its castle-like appearance.
As someone who has been deeply interested in
historical architecture in Pakistan for years, I found it surprising that I had
never come across this building before. Intrigued, I decided to visit the site
of this magnificent Haveli the very next day.
Kanjrur is a union council in Tehsil Shakargarh,
Narowal district. The town derives its name from a prominent Sufi figure known
as Kanju Peer, whose tomb is located in the village.
Situated approximately 15 kilometers from Narowal
city, Kanjrur is positioned on the banks of the Basantar River. The Basantar
River is a tributary of the Ravi River that flows through Punjab and Himachal
Pradesh. It holds historical significance as it was the site of the Battle of
Basantar, a crucial battle fought during the Indo-Pakistani War of 1971 in the
western sector of India (December 4–16, 1971).
The construction of this grand Haveli in Kanjrur is
attributed to a wealthy Hindu landlord named Dewan Chand. It is believed that
the Haveli was built in the early 19th century, making it over a hundred years
old. Prior to the partition of India, a substantial number of Hindu families
resided in Kanjrur, and the village was home to four Hindu temples.
According to local accounts, Dewan Chand erected
this magnificent mansion for his family. The outer walls of the Haveli are
heavily fortified, featuring bastions at each corner and reaching a width of 7
feet at certain points. The approximate dimensions of the Haveli are 100 x 102
feet. The Haveli consists of three stories and underground compartments, with
the height of the outer facade and boundary walls measuring over 35 feet. In
the middle of the outer facade, a Jharoka (balcony) was once situated,
providing a view of the outside. Unfortunately, the garden and gateway in front
of the Haveli have been destroyed over time.
Additionally, the Haveli contains an escape tunnel
beneath the front wall, which was constructed for emergency purposes. Markings
of bullets can also be observed on the front elevation, hinting at a mysterious
history that begs further investigation.
It is worth noting that most parts of Kanjrur,
including this Haveli, are situated atop an ancient mound, adding to the
historical allure of the site.
Dewan Chand, known for his philanthropy, also
established a school in the town, which still exists to this day. Dewan Chand's
family migrated to India before the partition of 1947. Currently, the Haveli is
inhabited by several families who have settled there after their own
migrations. Unfortunately, the building suffered significant damage during the
2005 earthquake.
The Haveli of Kanjrur stands as a testament to the
architectural and historical heritage of the region, drawing visitors with its
imposing structure and fascinating past.
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| Crossing Basanter River |
