23rd April 2023
(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)
For quite some time, I had been longing to visit the captivating site of Ali Baig's tomb. Coincidentally, my grandmother's ancestral village is situated a mere four kilometers away from this historically significant location. As I approached the tomb, a serene canal gracefully flowed nearby, not only adding to the allure of the surroundings but also meandering through my grandmother's village.
However, my anticipation was tinged with a sense of melancholy. Years ago, a tragic incident unfolded in this very canal, claiming the lives of my father, uncle, and cousin. The memories of their untimely demise lingered within my family, casting a shadow over my visits to this place.
The town of "Hanjeera" is situated approximately six kilometers north of Mano Chak - Helen Road in the Mandi Bahauddin district. In this town, amidst the fields, stands a historical tomb in the typical Mughal octagonal style. The construction of this tomb dates back to 1588 and it belongs to Mirza Sheikh Ali, a figure with a significant historical background.
During the reign of Akbar the Great, also known as Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar, he led the Mughal Empire from 1556 to 1605 and undertook numerous military campaigns to expand and consolidate his rule over the Indian subcontinent. Among these campaigns, one noteworthy endeavor was against the Gakhars, a powerful tribe residing in the present-day region of Pakistan. The Gakhars controlled territories in northern Punjab and parts of the Salt Range, posing a potential threat to Mughal authority and the stability of Akbar's empire. The conflict between Akbar and the Gakhars began around 1561 and lasted for several years.
Not much is known about the history of Sheikh Ali Baig, except that he held a high-ranking position in Akbar's court and tragically lost his life during the battle against the Gakhars.
Turning our attention to the architectural aspects of the tomb, we find that it is situated on a raised platform approximately five feet above the natural ground level. Two staircases are present at the front of the platform, providing access to the top. During our visit, we observed ongoing restoration work at the tomb. Additionally, the tomb features a hidden basement chamber where the actual grave of Shaikh Ali Baig is located, along with two unidentified graves—a common practice seen in many Mughal tombs in Punjab. A small tunnel opens at the front of the platform, leading to the basement chambers.
The primary characteristic of Mughal octagonal tombs is their distinct octagonal shape. Unlike traditional square or rectangular tombs, these structures boast eight sides, creating a visually striking and symmetrical form. The eight octagonal faces of the tomb in "Hanjeera" are divided into two sets: one set features tall four-centered arches with marbleless pishtaqs and spandrels, while the other set consists of recessed arches adorned with muqarnas. The pishtaqs were once adorned with vibrant floral paintings, as described in a late 19th-century gazetteer, although much of this decoration has been lost over time. The interior chamber of the tomb follows a square plan.
In close proximity to the tomb, approximately 50 meters southwest, weathered remnants of a small mosque can still be observed. This adds to the historical significance of the site, showcasing the presence of multiple architectural elements in the vicinity.
Overall, the tomb in "Hanjeera" stands as a testament to the Mughal architectural style, particularly in its octagonal design and distinct features. It's historical significance and ongoing restoration efforts make it an intriguing site to explore for visitors interested in Mughal heritage.
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| Picture before renovation |
