Wednesday, 7 June 2023

Sateen Jo Aastan

(All images copyright 2020 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

The Seven Sisters Graveyard, known by the names Sateen Jo Aastan or Sateen Jo Thaan, is a place of deep cultural and historical significance located in Rohri, Sukkur, Pakistan. This sacred site is steeped in local folklore and is closely tied to the practice of Sati in Hinduism, where widows would sacrifice themselves on their husband's funeral pyre. The story revolves around seven sisters who lived in a grand house in Rohri, concealed from the eyes of men due to their extraordinary beauty. Upon learning about the sisters, a Raja commanded his people to bring them before him. Fearing for their safety, the sisters sought divine protection through prayers to Allah. Miraculously, the ground beneath their dwelling opened up, causing the sisters to either vanish or meet their fate.

In 961 A.H., (1554 AD) Mir Abu-al-Qasim took the initiative to construct a tomb at the very spot where the sisters were believed to have disappeared. This tomb, reminiscent of the materials used in the renowned Makli Hill Graveyard, is adorned with Quranic verses meticulously inscribed on its structure. Inside, the tomb is graced with the elegance of blue marble, symbolizing the rich Sindhi culture. While the tomb may be relatively small in size, it offers visitors a serene and captivating view of the Indus River. From there, one can catch a glimpse of the enchanting sight of blind dolphins swimming and the renowned Sukkur Bridge, adding to the picturesque charm of the location.

Initially intended to be named Qasim Hill, the tomb became more popularly known as Sateen Jo Thaan or Astana. Deep inside the tomb lies the resting place of the seven sisters, concealed within a sacred cave that is strictly off-limits to men and cameras. Only women are permitted to visit these graves and offer their prayers. Sateen Jo Aastan has gained a reputation for its mystical powers, attracting women from distant regions, such as Balochistan, who seek intercession for their ailments and well-being.

Within the tomb complex, there is also a small mosque situated on the upper level, adorned with vibrant blue, turquoise, and white tile-work, presenting a visual treat for visitors. Legend has it that Mir Qasim, the patron of the tomb, used to entertain his friends and courtiers during full moon nights with enchanting music, delicious mangoes, sweets, honey, and refreshing watermelons within this splendid complex. Unfortunately, the passage of time has taken its toll on the site, resulting in deterioration, yet it remains a favored destination for picnickers and tourists.

Adjacent to the tomb, on a leveled platform atop a smaller hill, lies a collection of intricately carved gravestones similar to those found in the Makli Hill of Thatta. These graves are adorned with chain ornaments and bear Arabic quotations from the Quran. Among them, the principal grave belongs to Mir Qasim, one of the Sabzwari Shahids, dating back to 1018 AD. This hill has become known as Than Qasim Shah or the Hill of the Seven Virgins due to its association with the legendary seven sisters.

On the southern side of the hill, a building called Satbhain stands, hosting a row of shallow rooms adorned with colorful tiles. It is believed that these rooms were once occupied by the seven sisters themselves. Ascending around 25 stairs leads visitors to the top of the cave, where additional graves, including that of Governor Bakhar Mir Abul Qasim Namkeen, can be found. The remaining graves are dedicated to the family members of the governor and other Syeds.

The historical and religious significance of Sateen Jo Aastan marks it as an extraordinary site. Despite being recognized as

 A world Heritage site, the government's neglect has resulted in damage to its infrastructure, particularly during times of flooding from the nearby Indus River. It is of utmost importance for the government to take responsibility for the preservation and maintenance of such culturally and historically significant places. These sites serve as a reflection of our rich heritage and deserve to be safeguarded for future generations to appreciate and cherish.