Friday, 30 August 2019

My Visit to Stepwell (Baoli) at Wan Bhachran Constructed in Sher Shah Suri Era (2018)


25.02.2018
(All images copyright 2018 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)



I became aware of this Baoli through an article I read in the daily newspaper back in 2007. The article provided detailed information about the historical significance of this structure and expressed concern about the lack of efforts by government and historical departments to preserve the site.

Water holds significant importance in Hindu mythology, representing a boundary between heaven and earth, known as tirtha. The sacredness of water is widely acknowledged across the subcontinent, evident in the extraordinary and monumental architecture that showcases the engineering achievements of designers and builders in the region. Stepwells, considered manmade tirthas, served not only as sources of drinking water but also as cool sanctuaries for bathing, prayer, and meditation. The concept of stepwells may have originated to ensure water availability during periods of drought.

Evidence of steps leading to water levels in artificially constructed reservoirs can be found in sites of the Indus Valley Civilization, such as Dholavira and Mohenjo-Daro. Mohenjo-Daro, for instance, features cylindrical brick-lined wells that may serve as predecessors to stepwells. The earliest examples of rock-cut stepwells in India date back to 200-400 AD.

The Uperkot caves in Junagadh contain the earliest known bath-like pond reached by steps, dating back to the 4th century. Nearby, the Navghan Kuvo, a well with a circular staircase, is another example. Its construction is attributed to the Western Satrap (200-400 AD) or Maitraka (600-700 AD) periods, though some suggest a later date in the 11th century. Additionally, the nearby Adi Kadi ni Vav was constructed either in the second half of the 10th century or the 15th century.

Stepwells in Dhank, Rajkot district, date back to 550-625 AD, followed by stepped ponds in Bhinmal (850-950 AD). The construction of stepwells reached its peak during Muslim rule from the 11th to 16th century. Initially utilized as an art form by Hindus, the practice of constructing stepwells became more prevalent during this period due to the harsh climate and water scarcity in regions like Gujarat and Rajasthan. Wells were seen as the most reliable source of continuous water supply.

The stepwells, known as vavs, came to be more than just water sources. The architectural design around the wells transformed them into subterranean retreats. A typical vav consists of two elements: a vertical shaft with a thick surrounding wall to maximize water retention, and a series of imposing flights of steps built over an inclined passage leading from the ground level to the water level deep below.

Sher Shah Suri and Wan Bhachran Baoli

Sher Shah Suri, the founder of the Sur Empire in northern India, left a lasting legacy during his brief reign from 1540 to 1545. Among his achievements were the construction of the Grand Trunk Road, the introduction of civic and military reforms, the issuance of the first Rupiya coin, and the establishment of a speedy postal system across the subcontinent. His foresight and futuristic vision can be observed in the facilities along the Grand Trunk Road, designed to cater to travelers’ needs.

Wan Bhachran, located in Mianwali District of Punjab province in Pakistan, was a town and administrative subdivision. The term 'Wan' means 'a well' in Punjabi, while 'Bhachran' refers to the Bhachar clan predominant in the region. Sher Shah Suri built this baoli (stepwell) in the 16th century as part of his efforts to construct similar structures along the routes taken by his army. This baoli served as a source of fresh water not only for humans but was also designed to accommodate large animals like elephants.

The availability of freshwater attracted settlers to the area, and the first tribe to establish itself there was the "Bachar Tribe," contributing to the name "Wan Bhachran," meaning "The Well of Bachars." It was previously known as "Khichi" before the colonial period but later recognized as "Wan Bhachran." The main tribes in the area include Bhachar, Miana Bhatti, Thethia Rajputs, and Ghanjera.

Baoli at Wan Bhachran: Location and Architecture

The coordinates of Wan Bhachran baoli are 32°25'1.08"N and 71°41'44.93"E.

The baoli consists of two main parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers, and steps providing access to the well. The lift well has an inner diameter of 19.26 ft and is constructed using kiln bricks with a wall thickness of approximately 2 ft.

The inclined landing portion of the baoli has a width of 8 ft and a length of 100 ft. The last buried tunnel section spans 80 ft in length.

At the start of the stairway, two minarets stand, resembling medieval pillars known as 'Kos Minarets.' These minarets were constructed to ensure visibility from a distance for passing caravans and travelers.

Overall, baolis like the one at Wan Bhachran exemplify the ingenuity and architectural prowess of their builders, while also serving as important water sources and places of retreat and contemplation in the arid regions of the subcontinent.

After eleven years, in 2018, I had the opportunity to visit this place. To my dismay, the condition of the site was appalling. The well was filled with garbage, dense bushes had grown around the staircase, and sewage from nearby houses had contaminated the area. It was disheartening to see that no fencing or rehabilitation work had been undertaken by the responsible authorities to protect this site for future generations. This historical gem is at risk of disappearing within a few short years.

It is disconcerting to witness the neglect and lack of preservation efforts towards such an important historical edifice. The article I had read in 2007 had already raised awareness about the need for action, but it seems that little has been done since then. The authorities should recognize the significance of this site and take immediate steps to restore and protect it, ensuring its survival for future generations to appreciate and learn from

















Friday, 26 July 2019

Sabeena of Sheringal Desan


Sabeena is a daughter of Shepherd who is living at meadows of Desans. Sabeena Born along with her twin brother. Unfortunately, the boy died at early age. Her father still remember the demise of boy. Her father offered us lunch, in which all dishes are made from cow milk.
Pahar ki choti per aisa lunch. Though despite of such a lavish free food we were not able to eat more than a bite as our stomachs are not used to such pure food and tongue was unfamiliar to its taste. So took pickle out of bag and enjoyed the bread (roti). Sun rays were so hot here that mobile gave error. Shutting down due to over heating. It's house of Brother of our guide. On seeing us from a distance that we changed path towards their house. I saw fresh smoke coming out of chimney as women started making food ready. No words said. Neither they could have heard us from such a distance. We only changed our direction and they started cooking. I have seen this hospitality before so it was lovely to see it again. Kohistani people are the most misunderstood people in Pakistan.
Location: Sheringal Dasaan




Wednesday, 24 July 2019

Butterflies of Swat


Trekking is not only name of traversing some certain land. You can document many interesting things like topographical features, mountains, streams, locals foods, birds, fossils, plant types, flora fauna and many more things.

I found elven species of butterflies in Swat during my recent four days visit, without the help of my friend Ackram Awan it could be impossible to learn about there ids.



















Monday, 22 July 2019

Birds of Utror, Swat


I recently spent four days in Utror surroundings, in this tour visited Desan, Spinkhwar lake, Shahi Bagh, Gabral, and Karkara lake. Along mesmerizing mountains, waterfalls, lakes, and natural scenes also sighted some beautiful birds.

Euroasian Goldfinch (Grey-Crowned) Carduells caniceps vigors
Spotted in the way of Karkaray Lake rom Gabral 15-07-2019
I am not into birding, taken this shot just casually during trekking in Shahi Bagh upper swat. learning about there names is fun. Plumbeous water red start at shahi bagh utror swat 15/7/2019
Not a clear picture looks to me blue rock thrush spotted at karkaray lake gabral
Shahi Bagh Swat has a feeling of nostalgia in it. The most amazing thing there is part of the land which is like an island, river water flowing there from all directions a wooden bridge connects it. There are many waterfalls and a few glacial lakes on top of mountains. On the upstream side, there is a lush green meadow. The area is covered with pine, almond, and paper trees. Saw some amazing varieties of birds there but sadly did not take tele lens. 
saw this yellow-breasted green finch (female) there
 yellow-breasted green finch (male) Shahi Bagh
Black Red Start 17/07/2019
Spotted it  at altitude of 3600 meter after crossing Desan
Blue Fronted Redstart
Spotted it  at an altitude of 3600 meters after crossing Desan
Grey wagtail
Spotted in the way of Karkaray Lake rom Gabral 15-07-2019

Sunday, 7 July 2019

KHUKA ALSO NAMED AS NATAIN BAOLI/STEPWELL (2018)


Date of Visit:- 09-11-2018
(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)

Inside View of landing/Stair Portion


Inside View of landing/Stair Portion

My acquaintance with Khuka Baoli came from website, ‘Stepwells Atlas” way back in 2015.  I visited Jhelum few times but could not able to visit this site due to always shortage of time. Also,  I was little bit baffled about the directions to reach my desired spot.  
However, I planned  my journey on the help of coordinates from Lahore and reached Rohtas fort. On outside front of Talaqi gate, Gurdwara Choa Sahib Site located, where Baba Guru Nanak is believed to have created water spring during one of his Udasi journeys.
A dirt road named ‘Shah Muhammad Shaheed’, running along the outer periphery of the fort and took westwards turn from Choa Shaib and crosses Kahan River to reach Rajopindi. Shah Muhammad Shaheed road is actually located on old Grand trunk road footprints. 
Rajopindi is another historical site, where a Mughal era Sarai is located. I could not stop here because of shortage of time.
On further travelling on same road in north direction, we reached at junction of Gattar-Dina Road. On left side of this junction a small village named Natain is located and on right side Khuka Village is located. Our desired site is located on ancient GT road that passes between these two villages roughly 850 meters from Gattar-Dina Road. Interestingly the step well is famous by two names “Khuka Baoli” and “Natain Baoli” derived from these villages.

Google Earth imagery showing Natain and Khuka village along the stepwell
At last, we reached to this site; Stepwells usually consist of two parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and the surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers and steps which provide access to the well.

The inclined landing portion has width equal to 5.38 meters and length 28.66 meters. The last buried tunnel portion is 4.00 meter in length. The diameter of vertical shaft (well) was roughly 6 meters.
The Step well, vertical shaft is converted into pumping stations by locals.
The well is used as a pumping Station

Google Earth imagery

Vertical Shaft/ Well
Sadly, no historical document and proof have been found about this structure, which could helpful in approximation of time period of this construction. Step well, Gujarati (vav), Hindi (baoli or baori), subterranean edifice and water source, an architectural form that was long popular throughout India.

However, it is believed that the present Baoli is constructed in Mughal period of somewhat reign of Emperor of Akbar or Jahangir.

















 On return, we took Gattar Dina road, and have to cross under this r British era passage