Saturday, 13 March 2021

A Bull-Cart Race in Cholistan (2021)

21st February 2021


We were deep in the desert when we found out about a nearby bullcart race. We decided to check it out. People from various far-flung areas, tobas, and villages had gathered there. They had prepared a special racetrack by clearing the desert shrubs and leveling the path. The local police were also present in their vehicles. This was a rematch between the same bulls from the previous month. We positioned ourselves at a distance, took out our cameras, and waited for the race to start. But when it did start, we were in for a surprise. Hundreds of bike riders supporting their respective bulls started moving alongside the bulls. We had not expected this; we thought only bull carts would be involved. So, we quickly moved aside to stay safe. Within seconds, we were the only ones left there, even our driver had gone towards the end of the 5 km race. All we could see was a massive cloud of dust. The police vehicle that came at the end took us to our booked jeep. The white bull took revenge from last month and won the race this time, along with a hefty prize. It was a nerve-wracking experience that could have easily led to injuries. Those bike riders looked like something out of a Western movie as if they were heading for a battle. Maybe they were inspired by Ertugrul and imagined their bikes were horses. In Punjab, Pakistan, there's a tradition that's as exciting as the region itself - bullcart racing. This practice is deeply rooted in Punjab's agricultural heritage and has been captivating both participants and spectators for generations. This article explores the world of bullcart racing, from its historical origins to its cultural significance. Bullcart racing has its origins in Punjab's agricultural history. It started as a simple amusement for farmers who used bullock carts for transportation and farming. Over time, these friendly races evolved into a full-fledged sport, becoming an integral part of Punjab's culture. The heart of bullcart racing is the magnificent bulls themselves. They are carefully bred and trained for intense competition. Owners invest a lot of time and resources in ensuring their bulls are not only powerful but also agile. These bulls, often unsung heroes, showcase incredible strength and determination on the racing tracks, embodying Punjab's agricultural spirit. Bull cart races take place on specially designed tracks in open fields or arenas. Teams compete to guide their bull carts through the course with both speed and precision. The real challenge isn't just about going fast but also maneuvering skillfully to navigate obstacles. These races often happen after the harvesting season and bring farmers and villagers together, creating an atmosphere of excitement and community. Bull cart racing is more than just a sport; it celebrates Punjab's rich agricultural heritage. These races often coincide with local festivals and fairs, becoming a focal point for communal joy and togetherness. They highlight the deep connection between humans and animals, emphasizing the vital role that bulls have played in Punjab's agriculture for generations. Despite its deep cultural roots, bullcart racing faces challenges, particularly regarding animal welfare. Ethical concerns have sparked discussions, prompting organizations and authorities to take action. Efforts are underway to ensure that racing practices are conducted humanely, striking a balance between tradition and ethical considerations.

















Friday, 12 March 2021

An archeological Mound in Kala Shah Kaku (2020)

Tibba Kala Shah Kaku

Date of visit: 23/082020

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)


 31°44'10.28"N,  74°15'40.66"E





The site of this mound can be seen while traveling on Grand trunk road in Kala Shah Kaku. According to the Archeological Department of Pakistan, this mound belonged to 8 to 16th Century AD time zone. Tibba Kala Shah Kaku was one of the series of mounds that populated along the Bagh Bacha river(one of the tributaries of river Ravi in the ancient past). However, A. Cunningham did not mention this mound in his writings, while writing on the Bagh-Bacha mounds. 


The original site of Bagh-Bacha mounds lies twenty-seven kilometers in the west of the Tibba Kala Shah Kaku. 


The details about metropolises of Bagh-Bacha mounds were firstly found from the writings of Chinese Monk Hieun Tsang., who has visited India in the 6th century AD. Later these mounds were grouped by  A. Cunningham in the 18th century AD. 


For a long ago, the two-third land of Tibba Kala Shah Kaku has been occupied by private property owners. In a small portion of the total area of the mound, a graveyard has been present, on the surface of which one can still see debris and pottery items.


Site Location Map








Thursday, 11 March 2021

An old Mound in Narang Mandi (2020)

Date of visit: 08/082020

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)



 31°55'10.48"N, 74°32'14.55"E




There are series of villages and small towns in Punjab which are constructed on existing old mounds. While traveling on Kala Hatai-Narang Mandi Road, one can see series of ancient mounds. Among these, the tallest one is standing near Narang Mandi near a small village of Alipur Syedan. The site of this mound is located 7 kilometers in the west of River Ravi. The rough diameter of this mound is 335 meters. On top of this mound a tomb and graveyard present. But one can still see debris and pottery items spread over the surface.  A few decades back the area of this mound spread over more than two kilometers. Now, most of the ground of this mound flattened and converted into fields for agriculture use. 

One more interesting thing about the location of this mound is that it lies in a place that falls under the Kingdom of  Great Raja Rasalu (the younger brother of the famous historical character Pooran Bhagat)  two Millenium back. But still, archaeological excavations needed to be done to investigate from which period this site has belonged. 

Few historians believe that this site is one of the Ambh Kappi metropolises. But this theory is wrong as the location of Ambh Kappi is 60 kilometers south of this site. 

Location Map


























Tuesday, 2 March 2021

GURDWARA MAL JI SAHIB KANGANPUR (2021)

Date of visit: 31 January 2021

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Guru Nanak’s legacy continues to live in several hidden corners of Pakistan. Part of this legacy is two gurdwaras with the same name — Gurdwara Mal Ji Sahib. While one among them at Nankana Sahib recently got a quiet makeover, the other with the same name at Kanganpur in Kasur continues to lie forgotten since Partition. Both gurdwaras are in Pakistan’s Punjab province.

KANGANPUR is a large village along Kasur-Lodhran the railway line in the Lahore district of Pakistan, had a historical Sikh shrine dedicated to Guru Nanak. It is said that once Guru Nanak accompanied by Bhai Mardana came to this village, but the villagers treated them with gross indifference. They did not even let them put up in the village. Before departing, the Guru blessed them saying, "Vasde Raho May you live happily here" and went to the next village, Manak Deke, 3 km away. The inhabitants of this village warmly welcomed the visitors and extended to them their wonted hospitality. On leaving this village, Guru Nanak remarked, "Ujjarjdo May you be dispersed." Bhai Mardana was puzzled and questioned the Master about his strange way of blessing the wicked and cursing the virtuous. The Guru explained that in the former case he had wished the ill-mannered residents of Kanganpur to stay where they were so that they did not spread their sullenness to people elsewhere, whereas he expected the people of Manak Deke to spread goodness by their gentle example. The Gurdwara Sahib at Kanganpur used to attract devotees especially on the first of every Bikrami month. It was the site of a largely attended religious festival on the first of the month of Chet (mid-March) every year, until it was abandoned in August-September 1947.




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Thursday, 18 February 2021

Memories of meeting with Great Mike Horn during K2 Base camp Trek 2015

2015

The trek from Jhula to Paiyue presented a moderate challenge, yet the rugged terrain and long hikes made it quite strenuous. I found myself hiking alone, determined to reach the campsite of Paiyue as quickly as possible. Suddenly, to my astonishment, I spotted a figure approaching from the opposite direction. With a burst of excitement, I called out, "Is that Mike Horn?" To my delight, he responded, "Yes, it is." Overwhelmed by the moment, I embraced him and eagerly shared how his videos had showcased Pakistan's true beauty to the world. His surprised expression spoke volumes when I conveyed the immense love and respect he had garnered in Pakistan.

Unfortunately, I hadn't brought a camera with me, and my friends were trailing about a kilometer behind us. Despite these setbacks, I mustered the courage to request a picture with Mike Horn and expressed my desire to hike alongside him. He graciously agreed, but humorously remarked that I would have to cover double the distance. Undeterred, I even contemplated going back to Askole just to capture that moment with him. His smile and reassuring pat on my shoulders gave me the confidence to continue. Together, we embarked on the hike.

As we trekked side by side, Mike Horn proved to be an extraordinary individual. He passionately expressed his belief that the foreign media often portrayed an inaccurate and misleading image of Pakistan, while emphasizing the country's innate beauty and warmth. He even mentioned the possibility of joining the Pakistan cricket team as a consultant, having worked with Waseem Akram for the Kolkata Knight Riders for three years. He shared his experience as a consultant for the South African cricket team and his presence during the World Cup match where Pakistan emerged victorious, albeit reluctantly admitting his disappointment in South Africa's defeat. Additionally, he revealed plans to return to Pakistan in winter to undertake the daunting challenge of climbing Nanga Parbat.

The encounter with Mike Horn during that arduous hike left an indelible impression on me. His genuine admiration for Pakistan and his relentless pursuit of adventure showcased his remarkable character. We walked together, bound by a shared appreciation for nature's wonders and a desire to challenge ourselves.





Tuesday, 16 February 2021

Gurdwara Hado Sahari & Memories of Baba Virsa Singh Virik (2021)

 Date of visit: 31 January 2021

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)


Gurdwara Building & Grave on right

In August 1947, when, after three hundred years in India, the British finally left, the subcontinent was partitioned into two independent nation-states: Hindu-majority India and Muslim-majority Pakistan. Immediately, there began one of the greatest migrations in human history, as millions of Muslims trekked to West and East Pakistan (the latter is now known as Bangladesh) while millions of Hindus and Sikhs headed in the opposite direction. Many hundreds of thousands never made it.

Across the Indian subcontinent, communities that had coexisted for almost a millennium attacked each other in a terrifying outbreak of sectarian violence, with Hindus and Sikhs on one side and Muslims on the other—a mutual genocide as unexpected as it was unprecedented. In Punjab and Bengal—provinces abutting India’s borders with West and East Pakistan, respectively—the carnage was especially intense, with massacres, arson, forced conversions, mass abductions, and savage sexual violence. Some seventy-five thousand women were raped, and many of them were then disfigured or dismembered.

My  article is a retrospection of memories of Baba Virsa Singh Virik about Hado Sahari village of district Kasur in Pakistan, where he was born in 1931 and lives there till the partition of 1947.

Hado Sahari village is located 7 kilometers from district Kasur and 50 kilometers from Lahore city. It lies on a natural mound.  Baba Virsa Singh was born in a Sikh Jatt family, for centuries his family's only source of living was farming and livestock. Before the partitioning of British India, in Hado Sahari village mostly Virik Jut’s clan used to live.

Along Hado Sahari there were four other villages of Virik Jut’s (Nathoke, Gagga, and he has forgotten the name of one village of Virk’s) in Lahore. In the proximity of Hado Sahari, most of the villages were of Bhullar Jut’s.  Baba Virsa Singh never went to school, every day he drew his cattle to Kot Murad in Kasur for Grazing and returns home in the evening.

He shared an interesting story about how his ancestors came to this village and decide to settle here.  Five generations back, a boy name Sahari lives with his widow mother in a village in Sheikhupura. 

At that time in villages, there used to be only one oil mill.  Oil sold and given to every home on their turn, that is once a week. The oil mill owner maintains a weekly register for that.

One day some guests have arrived at Sahari's house, his mother sends him to the oil mill shop to bring oil, so she could be able to cook some food for his guests. It was not the Sahari family's turn of the day of getting oil, the oil mill the owner refused and returns him home empty-handed.  The guests were hungry, Sahari's mother did not want to send them without serving food, so she came along his son to the oil mill shop and requested him to lend him the oil of somebody else turn and gave them oil back on their turn.

The person whose turn of getting oil was dew that day came to the oil mill shop and when he came to know that his turn oil taken by somebody else, he got angry and called Sahari's mother in the Panchayat (villagers court) the next day. The Sahari's mother was embarrassed in front of Panchayat and warned for doing such an act again in the future. She took this insult to heart, grabbed his son along, and left the village in the south direction at night. Both the mother and son walked for many days and reached the place where the present village of Hado Sahari is located. They decided to settle here.

There are two Villages by the same name i.e., Sahari in tehsil and district Kasur, and have earned the name Hado Sahari (Hardo in ‘Persian’ means both). The Gurdwara Sahari Pir is in the outskirt of the Village and there is a grave present adjacent to it. The present custodian of this place told this grave to belong to Sahari Pir. It was interesting for me to find a Sikh Gurudwara and Grave at the same place as both are symbols of two different religions.

How the young Sahari turned to 'Sahari Pir' is also a very interesting story and shared by Baba Virsa Singh Virik in his oral interview. (one can find on YouTube, 'Hardo Sahari, Kasur to Sanghe, Mansha by Sanwal Dhami, santalinama-252).

Sahari was a Sikh Virk Jatt, after settling in the village he started his living by harvesting a few seasonal vegetables and having few domestic animals.

If you travel to Kasur there is a small town named Basti Sheikh Bhago present, here the tomb of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A is still standing. This shrine is one of the oldest in Kasur. Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan RA settled in the area even a century earlier than Baba Bullah Shah. This shrine is roughly 7 kilometers from the present Hado Sahari village.

Tomb of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A


One-night thieves came to Hado Sahari and stole most of the domestic animals from the village and took them to the nearest town of Kot Murad in Kasur.

Sahari's animals were also among the stolen, along with the other villagers he also started searching and found out few clues that their animal was taken to Kot Murad. The thieves, who stole the animal found that villagers reached after them. It was an era of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A living in Kot Murad khan.  The thieves reached to the Sheikh and persuaded repentance for their sin and promised they will leave stealing in the future if their lives were protected from villagers.  Which he accepted, and with his manifestation, he changed the looks of animals. The stolen animals were shown to villagers and Sahari; the villagers could not guess that these were their animal and were returning in despair but Sahari came in front of Hazrat and asked what bribe he took from the thieves to change the looks of animals. Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A smiled and said only a true soul can found this secret. Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A also announced to Sahari that he will become a saint in the future. 

Mosque of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A

Mosque of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A

Mosque of Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R.A


Hazrat Sheikh Bhago Sultan R. A’s statement went true in future years, Sahari becomes a saint and people still know his name by Pir Sahari Chhina. Sahari was born in the Sikh Virik Jatt family when he died his last will was that his body shall be buried instead of cremation. Hence a controversy arose between Sikhs and Muslims that whether Sahari died as a Muslim or Sikh.

According to Sikh's, Pir Sahari Chhina Jatt became a great saint after becoming a Sikh of Guru Amar Das Ji and the Gurdwara built in this memory. The building is strong being new. 85 ghumaon of land granted to the Gurdwara is in this Village. The Muslims of the Village call this place Sahari Pir. A sheet of cloth with Quranic verses covers his grave now and Muslim Villagers recite Quran. A fair is held annually. Muslim fakir_ looks after the Shrine.

Now come to Baba Virsa Singh Virik during the partition of 1947 three of his father's brothers were murdered, he lost all his property, he luckily crossed the border with his elder sister. He is now living a happy life with his grandchildren in the village of Varnala in Indian Punjab. He stills remember his early days of his life in Hado Sahari village. Many years back after partition, he sent a letter to Hado Sahari's postal address, that he is coming to Lahore for a religious tour from India and if somebody knows him from the village should come to meet him.  At the partition, an eight-year boy from his family was left behind in the village. The boy converted his faith to Muslim, so his life was forgiven. He still remembers Baba Virsa Singh and after receiving his letter he took all his family to Lahore to welcome Baba Virsa. It was the time of the '80s, unfortunately, Baba Virsa Singh Virik was mistakenly arrested last minute before coming to Pakistan under the charges that he is a member of the Akali movement. His host that arrived from his native village of Hado Sahari waited for him for fifteen days, but he was not able to come.

Baba Virsa Singh Virik never able to come to Pakistan again to see his birthplace  but he still remembers every inch of that village.








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