My Visit to Chitral Fort (2013)

June 10, 2013

Chitral, a region that is currently part of the North-West Frontier Province of Pakistan, was once an independent state in 1895. Although situated beyond the border of British India, it fell within the sphere of British influence as it owed allegiance to Kashmir. The year 1895 marked a tumultuous period in Chitral's history when the reigning Mehtar (ruler) was assassinated by one of his brothers who sought to claim the throne for himself.

In response to the power struggle and the ensuing instability, Surgeon Major George Robertson, the British Political Agent stationed in Gilgit, led a small military force to Chitral. However, their arrival was met with an additional challenge in the form of Umra Khan, a formidable Pathan chieftain, who had invaded Chitral from the south. To further complicate matters, Sher Afzal, another claimant to the rulership, had arrived from Afghanistan and aligned himself with Umra Khan. Robertson, refusing to accept either claimant, instead installed the younger brother of the late Mehtar, Shuja-ul-Mulk, as the provisional ruler.

As tensions escalated, the invading Pathans were joined by local factions, intensifying the conflict. In a bid to protect themselves and maintain control, the British officers, Indian soldiers, and civilians sought refuge within the fortified Chitral Fort, where they were joined by the newly appointed Mehtar and others, amounting to a total of approximately 540 individuals. What followed was a grueling siege that endured for six weeks. Meanwhile, two relief columns were dispatched to Chitral, one from Gilgit and the other being the larger Chitral Relief Force from the south, both braving the treacherous mountainous terrain in their efforts to provide assistance.

The story of the siege and its subsequent relief became one of the most captivating and dramatic episodes in the annals of Victorian military history. The campaign involved several forts, many of which still stand today and are visible to visitors. These forts serve as tangible reminders of the heroic struggles and sacrifices made by those involved in the defense of Chitral Fort and the subsequent efforts to relieve the besieged garrison.

Visitors to the region have the opportunity to witness firsthand the remnants of these historic forts, each holding a unique story and offering glimpses into a significant chapter in Chitral's past. These fortifications stand as enduring symbols of resilience and bravery, honoring the individuals who defended Chitral against overwhelming odds and ensuring that their legacy lives on in the collective memory of both locals and visitors alike.

Khudabad Mosque Dadu 2009

 July 6, 2009

KHUDABAD, district Dadu, was the capital of Sindh for a long time during the Kalhora Raj. One of the Kalhora rulers, Mian Yar Mohammad Kalhoro, built a very beautiful mosque in the capital over 300 years ago. It is called Jamia Masjid Khuda Abad, which is situated on the road that leads to Sehwan Sharif from Dadu.

 

The mosque is beautiful and spacious. About 5,000 people can offer prayers at a time. When I visited it recently, I found its calligraphy and artwork to be very attractive.

 

With the passage of time, the mosque got eroded and damaged. Considering the beauty, architectural design, and historical background of the mosque, the Sindh government should carry out repairs and renovation of the mosque at the earliest.

Tomb of Bibi Jawindi

February 9, 2014

The Tomb of Bibi Jawindi in Uch Sharif, Pakistan, is a culturally significant monument with a rich history. It is one of the five monuments in Uch Sharif currently on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Built-in 1493 by Dilshad, an Iranian prince, the tomb was dedicated to Bibi Jawindi, the great-granddaughter of the famous Sufi saint Jahaniyan Jahangasht.

Situated in the southwest corner of Uch, a city founded by Alexander the Great, in Punjab province's Bahawalpur state, the tomb is a prime example of the region's vibrant "shrine culture." Uch Sharif is renowned for its numerous monuments and shrines, and the Tomb of Bibi Jawindi stands out as an architectural masterpiece.

The exterior of the tomb is octagonal in shape and consists of three tiers. The top tier supports a dome, while the interior features thick angled walls, creating a circular space that spans two stories in height. The tomb is adorned with intricate decorations, including Islamic scriptures, carved timber, and vibrant blue and white mosaic tiles called faience.

Supported by eight tapering towers at each corner, the base tier is surrounded by a compound that has been preserved in its original desert-like state, with most of the area covered by cemented graves. The tomb is surrounded by green vegetation, thanks to nearby river tributaries and canals.

Along with the Tomb of Bibi Jawindi, the proposed property in Uch Sharif includes four other remarkable monuments. Among them is the tomb and mosque of Jalaluddin Bukhari, a 14th-century Central Asian Sufi. The brick-built tomb boasts intricate wooden pillars supporting a flat roof adorned with glazed tiles featuring floral and geometric designs. The adjacent mosque features a spacious hall with wooden pillars and a flat roof decorated with enameled tiles both inside and outside.

Connecting these structures are a series of domed tombs. The first tomb, built by Jahaniyan Jahangasht for Baha’ al-Halim, features three tiers, an octagonal base, and a dome. Similarly, the second tomb, constructed for Bibi Jawindi around 1494, and the third tomb, dedicated to the architect, showcase elaborate architectural elements such as carved timber, cut and molded brickwork, and blue and white faience mosaic tiles. These tombs' basement walls taper and are supported by eight engaged tapering corner towers, adding to their grandeur.

Despite erosion over time, the distinct profile, construction techniques, and decorative interiors of these three tombs remain visible, offering a glimpse into their historical and artistic magnificence.

In conclusion, the Tomb of Bibi Jawindi and the accompanying monuments in Uch Sharif are invaluable cultural treasures. Their exceptional architectural design, craftsmanship, and historical significance make them deserving candidates for recognition as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Poori Bai Haveli Lahori Gate

14th September 2013

During the era preceding Sikh rule in Lahore, the red light area was situated within the confines of the Lahori gate. It served as a hub for various renowned dancers who resided in this area. An interesting architectural feature that could be observed in each house was the presence of windows adorned with prominent wooden balconies.

Among these historical residences was a Haveli, currently in a dilapidated state, located in Mohalla Pir Shirazi. This particular Haveli once belonged to Poori Bai, a highly esteemed dancer of her time. Prior to the partition of India, this grand structure was widely known as the 'Poori Bai Haveli.' However, following the establishment of Pakistan, the Haveli underwent a change in name and became known as the 'Noori Building,' reflecting the new residents who inhabited it.

Having heard of its rich history, I embarked on a visit to this Haveli on the 14th of September 2013.