My Visit to Baltit Fort in 2014

August 1, 2014

Baltit Fort is a fort in the Hunza valley, near the town of Karimabad, in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of northern Pakistan. Founded in the 8th century CE, it has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative list since 2004. The Mirs of Hunza abandoned the fort in 1945 and moved to a new palace down the hill.

My visit to Kharpocho Fort, Skardu in 2003

My father, an avid traveler, explored the remote regions of northern Pakistan in the early 1980s. It is from him that I inherited my love for mountains and nature. In the summer of 2003, during our vacation, we embarked on a memorable trip to Gilgit Baltistan. After spending a few days in Gilgit, where we visited the Kargah Nullah Buddhist site, we continued our journey to Skardu city. One of the highlights of our visit was the Kharpocho Fort, which required a bit of hiking to reach. Perched atop a hill, the fort offered a breathtaking view of the entire cityscape. Accompanied by three friends from university, we carefully captured each moment on our film roll camera, cherishing the experience.

Known as the "King of Forts," this magnificent structure is situated in Skardu city, within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Renowned Australian mountaineer and filmmaker, Greg Child, described the fort as being strategically positioned above the confluence of rivers, providing an awe-inspiring vista of the Rock of Skardu.

Originally constructed by King Ali Sher Khan Anchan in the late sixteenth century, the fort's significance attracted the attention of General Zorawar Singh, a member of the Dogra Rajput clan serving under Maharaja Gulab Singh. Recognizing its strategic location, General Zorawar Singh occupied the fort as part of his military campaigns to incorporate the Baltistan region into the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir. However, in 1857, under the guidance of Ranbir Singh, the fort was completely demolished. Even Mughal emperor Aurangzeb had made unsuccessful attempts to capture the fort.

During the First Kashmir War in 1947, the fort played a crucial role. The Jammu and Kashmir State Forces, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Sher Jung Thapa, were stationed within its walls. The fort came under siege by the Gilgit Scouts and rebel troops aligned with the Pakistan Army. On February 11, 1948, a fierce battle ensued between the Pakistani forces and the Skardu garrison stationed in the fort. After a six-hour confrontation, the attackers were forced to retreat. However, they returned on February 14, continuing their assault on the fort with intermittent fire. The siege persisted for over six months, and due to dwindling supplies of ammunition and rations, the Kashmiri forces were eventually compelled to leave the fort in small groups on August 13, 1948. Tragically, on August 14, the fort fell to the invaders, with most of the remaining defenders reportedly losing their lives, except for Colonel Thapa and his Sikh orderly, who were taken as prisoners. As a result, Skardu became a part of Pakistan-controlled Kashmir, later renamed Gilgit-Baltistan.

Lucky Shah Mosque and Spring Jamshoro-Dadu 2009

 July 6, 2009

The shrine of saint Shah Sadaruddin Lakyari (Lakki Shah Sadar) is located on the Jamshoro-Dadu national highway, south of Sehwan. The place is also famous for sulfur springs for curing skin diseases. This was originally the site of a Hindu Shiva Temple on the bank of springs of Lakki Shah Sadar, but there is also a Muslim shrine here now. About eleven miles to the south of Sehwan is a small village of “Lakki” and about two miles from this village there are hot water springs that flow from the mountains. Since the flow of water was continuous it was also called “Dhara Tirath.” The springs bubble out at the base of an immense wall of rock, with a sponge-like texture and swirling lines, that rears straight up behind the Hindu temple. The nearby cave where Shah Sadar meditated is now a Muslim shrine.

Thanks to my colleague Mr.Zia I was able to see this amazing place famous for its mysterious spring, people there thought after taking a bath they were cured of all skin diseases. But do not be too fascinated by it, it is only a sulphuric water spring. 

Lucky Shah Shrine 

My visit to Manthal Buddha Rock Skardu (2003)

June 2003

 

During student days, we decided to do a little hike to Manthal Buddha Rock on the foot from Skardu city. When we reached to Rock site heavy rain started, and we did not have any rain cover at that time, In this picture, we were sitting behind the buddha rock under a tree waiting for a stoppage of rain. 

Centuries have passed, yet the watchful gaze of Buddha endures over the tranquil town of Skardu in Gilgit-Baltistan (G-B). Carved in stone, the sage continues to emanate wisdom to those who seek it, although sadly, there are few who do.

Perched on the edge of Manthal village, adjacent to a stream from Satpara Lake, the pale and smooth granite, known as the Buddha Rock, is a relic believed to have been carved between the 8th and 10th centuries. It represents a glorious bygone era when individuals sought enlightenment in the footsteps of the "One Who Woke Up."

The rock bears witness to a vanished tradition and holds significance beyond borders. However, it languishes on the outskirts of Manthal village, neglected and forgotten by the world.

According to Pakistani folklore, the rock remained unknown until British traveler Jane E. Duncan documented it in the early 1900s. Duncan's encounter with the rock brought it to the attention of German scholar August Hermann Francke, who deciphered the Tibetan inscription on the rock and published it, unveiling its magnificence to the world.

Nevertheless, evidence suggests that the rock and its Tibetan inscriptions were noticed earlier. GT Vigne, a British explorer, reproduced the carvings and inscriptions in 1836 and 1838, while AGA Durand published a photograph of the entire rock in 1899.

The ancient relief on the rock depicts Siddhārtha Gautama, the present-time Buddha, at its center. Surrounding him are twenty smaller Buddhas representing the past, with future Buddhas, known as Maitreya, standing on both sides. The carving, known as the "Council of all Buddhas," holds deep significance in the Buddhist tradition and lends its name to the village.

The Tibetan script, although incomplete in places, instructs followers of Gautama to preserve and care for the sculpture. It emphasizes the faithful ones' responsibility to maintain the brightness of the sculptures and keep the offering place clean to prevent decay. Only one part of the script remains visible today, but when Duncan examined the rock, the entire script—with a few missing characters—was intact.

The purpose of the square hole above the Buddha's head, as described by Duncan, remains a subject of debate. Some believe it was used to hold a light, while others suggest it once supported a beam and roof to protect the carving. The square recess and cuts on the edges indicate the presence of a canopy that shielded the paintings on the rock face.

Preservation of the site is essential to safeguard its history. Many believe that the location played a vital role in the spread of Buddhism and attracted pilgrims from distant places. However, concrete evidence regarding its exact use remains elusive.

Despite its historical and cultural significance, the Buddha Rock has not been recognized as a UNESCO heritage site, nor has it been included in Pakistan's Tentative List. Organizations like the Baltistan Culture and Development Foundation (BCDF) have initiated efforts to protect and promote the site. BCDF has constructed a boundary wall around the rock, deployed a security guard, and collaborated with the government's tourism department to build a nearby tourist hut.

While the true story behind the rock may never be fully revealed, its unique composition and depiction of all Buddhas make it an invaluable piece of art. As part of a larger group of Buddhist relics in the region, the rock carving in Skardu stands out for its high-quality craftsmanship and emphasis on the cosmic nature of Buddha.

Baltistan's Buddhist heritage gradually faded over time, replaced by the advent of Islam. The religion's preachers called for the abandonment of the past, resulting in the deterioration and destruction of religious sites and monuments. Today, only a handful

 of artifacts, including the Buddha Rock, remain as enigmatic remnants of "Little Tibet's" ancient legacy.

Gopal Brothers Cloth Merchant Pre-partition Building in Islampura Lahore

 February 5, 2014

In the vibrant city of Lahore, amidst the bustling streets of Islampura, there stands a remarkable testament to the architectural grandeur of pre-partition India. This elegantly designed building, with its rich historical significance, continues to capture the imagination of all who encounter it. Once belonging to the renowned Gopal brothers, prominent cloth merchants of their era, it serves as a living testament to the cultural and commercial heritage of that bygone era.

The Gopal brothers were esteemed figures in the thriving textile industry of their time. Their building, a true gem of architectural brilliance, showcases intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail. It stands tall, proudly defying the passage of time, its facade reflecting the elegant blend of Hindu architectural elements and influences of the region.

While the building itself is a sight to behold, its true allure lies in the stories and memories that have been woven into its very fabric. As one steps inside, a sense of nostalgia permeates the air, transporting visitors back to an era when the Gopal brothers reigned over their cloth empire. The walls seem to whisper tales of bustling trade, vibrant colors, and the melodious sounds of negotiation and camaraderie that once filled the halls.

Pre-Partition Houses in Historical Villages of Tehra

January 27, 2018

Tehra Village is located near mahfoozpura garrison. it was populated by Dogars 500 years back.

My visit to Nawankot monuments Lahore (2014)

February 5, 2014

The lost jewel of architecture in Lahore The so-called Nawankot Monuments are the remains of the eastern wall of the tomb garden of Zeb-un-Nisa, comprising two corner turrets and the eastern gate. This relationship is difficult to distinguish in the crowded district, as the monuments are hemmed in on all sides by contemporary houses and roads. In the Mughal era, the three Nawankot monuments were linked together by a brick wall forming the eastern edge of the garden and were in turn linked to two turrets that delineated a square area of greenery with Zeb-un-Nisa's tomb at the center. No trace of the western turrets and walls survive and the gardens have disappeared under urban sprawl. The Nawankot monuments themselves are in considerable danger from the effects of neglect, urban encroachment, vandalism, and environmental stress.