Kashmiri Gate Walled City

February 18, 2018

Kashmiri Gate is one of the thirteen gates of the Walled City of Lahore in Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan. The gate gets its name as it faces in the direction of Kashmir. Inside there is a shopping area and market that is called "Kashmiri Bazaar" and a girls' college. This college, built upon an old haveli belonging to a Shah, is a beautiful example of Mughal architecture.

The Last Hindu Temple of Sant Nagar (Islampura) Lahore 2014

 February 5, 2014

During the British Raj in the 1930s, Lahore witnessed a transformation in the development of its middle-class neighborhoods. This period saw the establishment of localities such as Krishan Nagar and Sant Nagar. However, following the partition of India and the subsequent independence of Pakistan in 1947, a significant migration of Hindu residents occurred, leading to a shift in the demographic makeup of these areas. The once vibrant Hindu communities gave way to a predominantly Muslim population, turning Krishan Nagar and Sant Nagar into residential quarters primarily occupied by Muslims.

In 1992, a series of protests by Muslim groups calling for a change in the nomenclature of these localities were finally heard. As a result, Krishan Nagar and Sant Nagar were officially merged and renamed Islampura, meaning 'Islam Town'. This name change aimed to accurately represent the religious composition of the area and reflect the dominant Muslim population residing there.

Nestled just behind the Lahore Secretariat building, in the adjacent streets of Sant Nagar, there once stood an ancient Hindu temple complex. In 2014, I had the opportunity to visit this site and capture photographs of its remnants. The temple, constructed with bricks from the British era, indicated that it was built in the later years, likely after 1940.

Although the passage of time had taken its toll, the temple spire still stood as a testament to its former glory. However, a significant portion of the complex had been destroyed during the riots of 1992. These violent incidents were triggered by the aftermath of the Babri Masjid controversy in India, and unfortunately, the temple complex in Sant Nagar fell victim to the ensuing unrest.

The remains of this Hindu temple complex serve as a poignant reminder of the shared history and cultural diversity that once thrived in the area. While the temple itself suffered damage and destruction, its presence resonates with the collective memory of a community that has experienced both unity and division throughout the years. It stands as a tangible link to the past and underscores the importance of preserving historical sites as a means of honouring our shared heritage.

Visiting such sites offers an opportunity to reflect on the complex history of Lahore and the enduring spirit of its people. It encourages us to cherish the multicultural fabric of our society and work towards building a future where diverse religious and cultural identities can coexist harmoniously. By acknowledging and respecting the past, we pave the way for a more inclusive and understanding society.

Bhai Karam Singh Gurdawara Jhelum

 August 26, 2017

During my visit to Jhelum in 2017 for official purposes, I had the fortunate opportunity to explore the revered Gurdwara Bhai Karm Singh. Nestled along the River Road, near the banks of the beautiful River Jhelum, this sacred site held great significance. Although the building had undergone a transformation over the years, once serving as a police station, it had been lovingly restored to its original purpose.

As I approached the Gurdwara, its front elevation immediately captivated me with its awe-inspiring architectural design. The facade was adorned with a series of four-centered arch windows, exquisitely crafted in brick masonry. Each window boasted a segmented shades pattern, adding a touch of elegance to the overall composition.

At the center of the building stood a tall arch gateway, which served as the main entrance. The ground floor featured a wooden door, complemented by a brick shade with a segmented arch design. Above this entrance, a row of typical four-centered windows gracefully adorned the facade, embellished with multifoil pointed banding executed in brickwork. The first floor was distinguished by parapet walls adorned with intricate Jhali patterns, showcasing the skilled craftsmanship of the era. Moreover, small minarets adorned each corner of the building, adding a touch of grandeur to the overall structure.

While the exact date of construction for this historic Gurdwara remains unknown, the sign plates on display indicated its origins could be traced back to the early 1920s. This further emphasized the historical significance and rich heritage associated with this sacred site.

Visiting the Gurdwara Bhai Karm Singh was a truly enriching experience. The architectural splendor and meticulous craftsmanship exhibited in its design, coupled with its spiritual importance, made it a truly remarkable place to explore. It served as a testament to the cultural and religious diversity of the region, leaving a lasting impression on my mind.

Chakdara Fort (2014)

April 15, 2014

Chakdara has been an important center for the last 3500 years and is littered with remains of the Gandhara grave culture, Buddhist sites, and Hindu Shahi forts. The ancient route from Afghanistan via Nawa Pass and Swat River crosses at Chakdara.

The Mughals built a fort here, known as Chakdara Fort in 1586, occupied in 1895 by the British, who built the present fort in 1896 and were forced to defend it during the Siege of Malakand in 1897.
This small picket on a hilltop is famous, as Sir Winston Churchill, in 1895, when he was a lieutenant and was accompanying Malakand Field Force, spent a week in this picket, when this place was surrounded by a Lashkar of local tribesmen.

One can only see this fort from the outside as it is in use of Frontier COP. 

My visit to 12th Century Ramkot Fort in 2013

 May 5, 2013

Ramkot Fort is an ancient fort situated in Azad Kashmir, Pakistan currently beside the Mangla Dam. It is accessible by boat, 13 kilometers away from Dina and 79 kilometers by road from Mirpur, Azad Kashmir to Dadyal town. The fort is accessible from Sikah village from the Dadyal side and Mangla through boats which take approximately 30 minutes. Three sides of the hilltop are surrounded by the Jhelum River, which falls into the huge reservoir of Mangla Dam. It was built by a 12th-century Gakkhar chieftain named Toglu as recorded by the traveler and geologist Frederick Drew in his book.

Haveli of Man Singh Rohtas (2013) & (2017)

May 5, 2013

August 25, 2017

There are no major palaces in the Rohtas Fort except for the structure built by Raja Maan Singh called the Haveli of Maan Singh (Maan Singh Palace). Man Sing (Man Singh I) (December 21, 1550 – July 6, 1614) was the Kacchwaha King of Amber, a state later known as Jaipur. He was a trusted general of the Mughal emperor Akbar, who included him among the Navaratnas, or the 9( nava) gems(Ratna) of the royal court. Maan Singh Haveli was built on the highest point of the fortress. It’s not the original part of the fortress. On the whole, this fort is built in Afghan-Persian style but the balconies have Hindu architecture and the same balconies can be seen in Haveli Maan Singh. So far it’s unknown that what exactly the cause of the destruction of Haveli Maan Singh. 

Though it’s not the result of natural calamities, however, archeological investigations have begun now to reveal the facts.

The Historical Remains of Buddhu's Brick Kiln

December 25, 2014

The once lofty brick kiln of Buddhu was situated just south of GT road opposite the present-day University of Engineering and Technology. There is also a tomb in the area erroneously ascribed to Buddhu but which in actuality contains the graves of Khan-e-Dauran Nusrat Jang and his wife. 

Buddhu, son of Suddhu, was a potter during the time of Shah Jehan. Suddhu, who flourished in the time of Jahangir, constructed a number of kilns, in the vicinity of Lahore, to supply burnt bricks for the royal edifices, as well as the palaces of the nobles at Lahore. It is said that the fire in the kiln, known after the name of Buddhu, was extinguished as a consequence of the curse of a faqir, named Abdul Haq, a disciple of Mian Mir. Abdul Haq was turned away by Buddhu's servants on a cold rainy day when he came to the kiln to warm himself. The faqir cursed Buddhu and his kiln remained unserviceable ever after. During the reign of Ranjit Singh, General Avitable, the French Officer in his army, built a beautiful summer house on top of the kiln but no trace of it exists now.

Buddhu's main brick kiln likely no longer survives, although I have not scoured that area personally at least one of the other kilns built nearby still survives to this day. This kiln is located close to the tomb of Ali Mardan Khan on the east side of Walton Road. One can still see the rows of burnt bricks that were never removed.