Tuesday, 16 August 2022

The 17th Century Shigar Fort in Baltistan 2015

 July 26, 2015


The Shigar Fort means The Fort on Rock is an old fort of Baltistan and Pakistan located in the town of Shigar. It was built in the 17th century by the Raja of Amacha Dynasty of Shigar.

The fort has been restored by Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan (AKCSP-P), the Pakistan arm of the Aga Khan Historic Cities Programme. After restoration, the Fort was converted to a museum and luxury hotel managed by Serena Hotels. The restoration process took place from 1999 to 2004 and cost approximately US$1.4 million.


The Old Fort-Palace


The original Fong-Khar was founded on top of a platform that rises 5m from the ground and partly surrounds a gigantic cone-shaped rock (thus, the origins of the name, Fong-Khar, or “Palace on the Rock”). Although the Old Fort Palace as it is now restored appears to be one structure, upon closer examination, it is actually a collection of three separate buildings, built adjacent to each other at different times and with different engineering and workmanship. During the restoration of the site, these three structures were identified as Modules I, II, and III.


Module I is the oldest part of the original structure estimated as being 400 years old. It can easily be interpreted as a single, clearly conceived, and executed structure, with a distinct and noble architectural expression. The original usage of this structure can be identified through its sequence of rooms including the entrance hall, grand audience hall, retiring rooms for the ruler, and kitchen.

Module II is estimated to have been constructed approximately 100 years after the original Fong-Khar, with Module III following another 150 years later. Both Modules II and III were composed of residential rooms for the royal family, some more elaborate than others.


Old House


The building to the south of the Old Fort Palace is now known as Old House. Its lower floor accommodated a horse stable, a cattle pen, and storage for animal feed. It appears to have existed as the royal stable for as long as Fong-Khar itself. The upper floor of this structure was added much later by the raja as new residential accommodation when the Old Fort Palace was abandoned in the middle of the 20th century.


Amacha Garden and Baridari


The fort’s Baradari pavilion

It is not known when this decorative square pool – the central feature of the garden – was built, or what its initial appearance was like. Early in the 20th century, a pavilion was built on the central platform of the pool by Raja Muhammad Adam Khan, the father of the present Raja Muhammad Ali Saba. At the time of the takeover of the site by the conservation team, exquisitely carved marble bases that would have supported free-standing and attached columns could still be found on the central platform. The artistic quality of these marble bases approaches the perfection of Kashmiri buildings of the high Mughal style. Knowing that nothing of a quality approaching that of these column bases was built anywhere else in Shigar at the time the pavilion was built in the early 20th century, one can deduce that the column bases have a provenance in an earlier building.


The Raja’s Mosque

The Raja’s public mosque is a handsome and ornate building adjacent to the entrance to the complex and is of significant antiquity and artistic value. It is similar in form and ornament to other mosques in the Shigar area: a single four-bayed room with central column support and a veranda on the eastern side

















































Monday, 15 August 2022

Sheranwala bagh baradari Gujranwala

July 2, 2017

Time and Tide wait for none. How great Kingdoms of the past that rules the land for generations vanish from pages of history.

Mahan Singh son of Charhat Singh of the Sukkarchakkia misl, was young in years when his father died. During his minority, his mother, Mai Desan, carried on the administration, with the help of her brothers. As soon as he came of age, Mahan Singh embarked upon a career of conquest. He took the fort of Rohtas back from Nur ud-Din Bamezai. Aided by Jai Singh Kanhaiya, he advanced upon Rasulnagar. The powerful Chattha chief, Pir Muhammad, offered him stiff resistance but was at last overcome. The town was occupied and renamed Ramnagar.
As Mahan Singh returned from his victorious campaign, he received the news of a son having been born to him on 13 November 1780. He named his son Ranjit Singh, Victor in War, and celebrated the event with great rejoicing. Continuing his campaign of conquest, Mahan Singh took Pindi Bhattian, Sahival,' Isa Khel, and Jhang. He then seized Kotli Loharan, in the neighborhood of Sialkot. In 1782, he, like his father, got involved in the affairs of Jammu. Taking advantage of the internecine feud between the Jammu brothers, he plundered the town, collecting a huge booty, which he refused to share with his partners, the Kanhaiyas. Mahan Singh won over Jassa Singh Ramgarhia to his side, and both of them challenged the Kanhaiyas near Batala. In the battle that followed, Jai Singh's only son, Gurbakhsh Singh, was killed, and the Kanhaiyas suffered a defeat. Later, Sada Kaur, widow of Gurbakhsh Singh, betrothed her daughter, Mahitab Kaur, to Mahan Singh's only son, Ranjit Singh.
Mahan Singh's next target was the Bhangi misl. He picked up a quarrel with his brother-in-law, Sahib Singh Bhangi, after the death of his father, Gujjar Singh Bhangi. Sahib Singh shut himself up in the fort of Sodhra, which was invested by the Sukkarchakkia chief. During the protracted siege, Mahan Singh fell seriously ill with dysentery and was forced to retire. He died in April 1790.
Baradari in Sheranwala Bagh, Gujranwala was built in 1788 on orders of Sardar Mahan Singh. Sheranwala Bagh was destroyed by rioters in 1992 in the wake of the demolition of Babri Masjid in India. It is later restored by respective departments.
When I visited the site, I found an old man sleeping in the middle of that Baradari. This scene was simple but made me lose for a while to think, about how the time clock turned around. From the beginning of the establishment of the great Sikh Empire in Punjab and the vanishing of everything in two centuries




Shrine & Mosque of Hazrat Shaikh Hamid Qari Soharwardi in 2014 & 2022

January 2014

The walled enclosure containing Hamid Qari's grave and mosque is located in close proximity of the tomb of Ali Mardan Khan. Infact, to access this enclosure, you have to use the same passageway that is used to access Ali Mardan Khan's tomb in the Pakistan Railways property. Approximately 3/4 of the way through the passageway, a passage veers on the left, and leads to the large enclosure with a shrine and the historical mosque.

As you enter inside the enclosure, you are awed by the peace and serenity that pervades here. Chitter chatter of local birds and the sound of the leaves rustling in the wind are enough to put you in a trance just like the saint's recitation of the Quran would have done to the people of his time. Hamid, son of Husn-e-Alam was a man of great learning in Lahore during the reign of Muhammed Shah. He was born in Lahore in 1660 AD. He used to recite the Quran in a beautiful musical voice, on which account he was called Qari. He died in 1752 AD.
Near the southern wall of the enclosure is a well and two wash chambers. Beside them is the mosque that Hamid Qari built himself. He ran a school in the mosque to give religious instruction to the children. The single domed mosque has three arched entrances with the middle one being larger than the other two. Over the central arch of the mosque, the following verses are inscribed:
Khudawand ra shukr daram biyad - Chah khush masjid az dast-e-maskeen nihad
Khard guft dar saal tarikh aan - Ze aafaat dauran zwalash mabad
I have to offer thanks to God - for His having enabled this humble person to build a mosque
Reason said for the date of its foundation - May it never suffer from the calamities of the world
The last verse gives 1141 AH (1728 AD) as the date of the foundation of the building. To the north of the mosque is a room for the dervishes. In front for the courtyard of the mosque is the water tank (no longer in use). To the north of the water tank is another enclosure containing the grave of Hamid Qari on a platform. The grave and the platform have been much renovated now but fortunately the mosque and the well are still relatively unaltered from original.

Grave and mosque in 2013-14


Tomb in 2022



2022 mosque

Mosque 2022

Mosque 2022

Mosque 2022

Mosque 2022





Rani Mahal Rohtas 2013


May 5, 2013

The Rani Mahal (Queen's palace) is near Haveli Man Singh. It is a one-story structure. It originally had four rooms but the only room remains standing today. The foundation of the four rooms can still be seen today. It is not an original part of the fort and is an example of Hindu architecture and was built around the same time as the Haveli Man Singh. Some historians have also written that Rani was the sister of Man Singh. 

The room still standing today is about 20 feet high and beautifully decorated on the inside and outside. The roof of the dome-like room is like a flower. The inside of the roof is decorated with flowers, geometrical patterns, and faux windows. The room is about 8 feet by 8 feet.





Rani Mahal in background of Haveli Man Singh


Sunday, 14 August 2022

The Last left Haveli in Baghbanpura Bazaar 2014

 March 04, 2014 




Baghbanpura Bazaar, one of Lahore's longest markets, holds a significant historical connection to the Main family. Amidst the bustling row of shops, one building stood out in Baghbanpura Bazaar - the Mian Saheb Haveli, a residence of the esteemed Mian family. The first floor boasted an elegant arcade adorned with a series of beautiful multifoil arches. The front elevation showcased Gothic-inspired columns and other captivating elements. Sadly, the building has fallen into disrepair, with the wooden planks of the roof deteriorating and collapsing.

However, the property remains a subject of dispute, currently locked under a court order. The Mian family, hailing from the Arain tribe of the Punjab region, carries a rich lineage. Originally from Areha Jericho in modern-day Palestine, they entered the Indian Subcontinent with Umayyad Arab General Muhammad bin Qasim in 711 A.D. Over the centuries, the family has made significant contributions to the region and owned the land near Baghbanpura, which eventually became the site of the renowned Shalimar Gardens. In 1641, the family received custodianship of the Shalimar Gardens from the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in exchange for the land.

Today, the descendants of the Mian family of Baghbanpura reside in various new localities of Lahore, carrying forward their legacy and heritage.