Monday, 29 August 2022

The 17th century shrine of Hazrat Miskin Shah Amri Lahore

28th August 2022


Located at the beginning of Shami Road, adjacent to the Shell petrol pump, stands the shrine of Hazrat Miskin Shah Amri, representing an architectural marvel from the middle Mughal period. Hazrat Miskin Shah Amri, originally known as Inayat Ullah, was a revered disciple of Hazrat Mian Mir Saheb (RA) and left a profound impact on the spiritual realm. He passed away in 1647 A.D., leaving behind a legacy of devotion and enlightenment. The shrine was established in his honor under the patronage of Prince Dara Shikoh, a notable figure of that time.

The shrine's dome is situated at the center of a sturdy masonry platform, serving as a prominent feature of the architectural ensemble. The walls of the shrine were once adorned with intricate enameled pottery work, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship. However, during the Sikh era, these embellishments were unfortunately removed, diminishing the splendor of the shrine.

The original tomb of Hazrat Miskin Shah Amri featured an elegant dome supported by a small brick masonry structure. Remarkably, this original structure has survived the test of time and remains intact. However, an additional small structure has been erected on the western side of the original tomb, adorned with four smaller domes and four minarets. These later additions contribute to the visual grandeur of the shrine. Notably, the embellishments added to the shrine over time include decorative elements in shades of dark green and other colors, enhancing its aesthetic appeal.

The shrine of Hazrat Miskin Shah Amri stands as a testament to the architectural and spiritual heritage of the Mughal era. Despite the loss of some of its original embellishments, the shrine continues to draw devotees and visitors who seek solace and spiritual connection within its sacred space.












Friday, 26 August 2022

The Deepest Stepwell (Baoli) of Pakistan located at Rohtas Fort

 May 5, 2013


There are three Stepwells present at the site of Rohtas Fort. The deepest one has more than 148 steps to reach up to the water table of the well. The stairs are so wide that even war elephants and horses could drink water. The staircase is provided with arch beams at various intervals for support and bracing of side walls. The well is dried up for many years and is protected as a historical monument,

It is pertinent to mention here that the subject structure is the deepest stepwell in Pakistan. 















Thursday, 25 August 2022

Mehrab Wali mosque & Shrine of Syed Aaram Mehmood (RA) Lahore

20th August 2022


Situated to the east of Garhi Shahu near the Railway Stadium, this historically significant 17th-century mosque has undergone extensive renovations over time. It is located on Nawazish Street, which can be accessed from Mughalpura Road. The original construction of the mosque was commissioned by Nawab Jafar Khan, a prominent figure who held the prestigious title of haft-Hazari or Commander of seven thousand during the reign of Shah Jahan. His father, Nawab Sadiq Khan, was also an esteemed noble in the court of Jahangir.

Nawab Jafar Khan constructed the mosque as a testament to his spiritual devotion and reverence for his saint, Syed Aaram Mehmood, who was laid to rest within the mosque's courtyard. The architectural style of the mosque was distinctive and noteworthy. It was intentionally built about 15 feet above the surrounding land to safeguard it from potential flood damage. Access to the mosque is gained through a flight of steps located on the southern side. Although the mosque has been completely reconstructed in recent times, remnants of the original western wall can still be observed from a narrow street to the west of the mosque. Additionally, the original mehrab, from which the mosque derived its name, has been preserved.

Themosque's construction is intriguing due to the presence of a small rectangular room in the form of a mehrab on the western wall. The actual mehrab, however, was situated along the western wall of this rectangular room, resulting in the mosque being referred to as having two mehrabs. The imam would stand in the mehrab at the very front, while the rectangular portion immediately behind the imam was reserved for Nawab's family. The remaining prayer chamber at the back was utilized by the general public.

The courtyard of the mosque was also enclosed by walls, within which the graves of Jafar Khan (d. 1659) and his son Kazim Khan, along with the grave of Syed Aaram Mehmood, were situated. This aspect led to the mosque being referred to as the Hujra of Nawab Jafar Khan in earlier records.

During the time of Latif, a renowned historian, much of the original structure of the mosque was still intact. However, the northern and eastern walls had collapsed due to heavy rains during the reign of Maharaja Sher Singh, approximately half a century earlier. Presently, the mosque is under the care of the descendants of Muhammed Nawazish Ali Shah, whose magnificent mausoleum stands within the mosque's courtyard. The caretaker of the mosque shared that the area remained abandoned until 1905, with thick bamboo groves covering the land. In 1905, Muhammed Nawazish Ali Shah responded to a dream in which he was urged by Syed Aaram Mehmood to restore and revive the mosque. Nawazish Ali cleared the overgrowth, revitalized the mosque, and attended to the shrine of Aaram Mehmood. He passed away in 1948 and was buried in the courtyard, near the foot of Aaram Mehmood's grave. In 1952, their disciples erected a splendid mausoleum with two domes over the graves of Aaram Mehmood and Nawazish Ali Shah. The complex also contains several other graves, including the domeless grave of the mosque's founder, Nawab Jafar Khan, which remains hidden among the walls of modern constructions.


























Wednesday, 24 August 2022

The Alluring Dilapidated Dome of Albert Victor Block Mayo Hospital

December, 2017

How the East India Company conquered the Sikh Empire and then established hospitals for the sailors and soldiers. Calcutta General hospital was opened in 1769. The First medical college in South Asia was in Bombay established in 1835 as Calcutta Medical College and the second in 1845 as Grant Medical College in Bombay. Lahore Medical School which later became King Edward Medical College and later upgraded to a medical university was established in 1860. This was the third medical college established in Indo-Pak Sub-continent. Twenty-seven students passed the first Doctors Examination in 1863 from this institution. It was in 1910 that it was renamed King Edward Medical College. 

Sir Ganga Ram was a noted civil engineer of his time. Most of Lahore’s landmark buildings, dating back to the British era, were designed and constructed under his supervision. Notable among these are the Lahore High Court, the General Post Office, the Lahore Museum, the Mayo School of Arts (now the National College of Arts), the Ganga Ram Hospital, the Aitchison College, the Chemistry Department of the Government College University, Lahore; the Albert Victor wing of Mayo Hospital; Hailey College of Commerce (now Hailey College of Banking and Finance); Ravi Road House for the Disabled; and Lady Maynard Industrial School. The British government awarded him the title of Rai Bahadur for his enormous contributions in the field.

Lady Aitcheson Hospital one of the affiliated hospitals with KEMC was established in connection with Lady Dufferin’s program for the provision of healthcare to women. Its building was completed in 1889. The Foundation stone of the Albert Victor Memorial Hospital was laid by Sir James Lyall Lt. Governor of Punjab on May 14th, 1890 which consisted of three separate buildings constructed adjacent to Mayo Hospital. It was formally inaugurated on January 1st, 1892. It was in 1909 that the facilities of May Hospital, Albert Victor Block, and Lady Aitcheson Hospital were expanded. It was then renamed Kin Edward Medical College on December 21st, 1911. Lady Willingdon Hospital was established in 1933. In 1936 it was recognized for MBBS degrees by the General Medical Council of the UK.


The picture was taken in 2017

The picture was taken in 2018

1909 Photo


Photos of the inside view of Dome 

Photos of the inside view of Dome 

Photos of the inside view of Dome 

Photos of the inside view of Dome 

Photos of an inside view of Dome 

Lt. Col. Dr Ilahi Bakhsh- Physician of Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah

 Lt. Col. Dr Ilahi Bakhsh -- Physician of Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah and paternal grandfather of Dr Mark Salman Humayun (inventor of the bionic eye)

Lt. Col. Dr Ilahi Bakhsh, MD, MRCP was born in 1904 in Chak Mughlani, district Jullundur, East Punjab to a family of eye specialists Hakims. A direct ancestor had been the personal physician to the ruler of the Punjab, Maharaja Ranjit Singh.
Ilahi Bakhsh left for England at age 16 and studied medicine at Guy's Hospital, the University of London, and Oxford. At age 43 he become the first Muslim to be appointed Principal of King Edward Medical College in Lahore at a time when the entire British and Hindu faculty had just left Pakistan. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh led the herculean task of not only rebuilding the college but also leading the development of medical education throughout Pakistan. When he died in 1960, an eminent contemporary Col. Dr. S.M.K. Mallick proclaimed Ilahi Bakhsh as the real father of King Edward Medical College and of modern education throughout Pakistan. His other work includes a monumental 2,335-page treatise Modern Medical Treatment published in 1956. Ilahi Bakhsh was a medical visionary and a revered physician who is remembered for his lifelong care of the neediest as well as for his treatment of the Quaid-i-Azam and Allama Iqbal.
Lt. Col. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh was a medical visionary and a respected physician who is remembered for his lifelong care of the needy as well as for his treatment of the Quaid-i-Azam and Allama Iqbal. In “With the Quaid-i-Azam during his last days,” Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh provides a detailed account of Quaid’s treatment at Ziarat and Quetta, and his final journey to Karachi.
The author was among a select group of people who had personal contact with the Quid-i-Azam during his last days. He also sheds light on the personal traits of Quaid-i-Azam. The author has provided meticulous details about his treatment of Quad-i-Azam. The most revealing part of the book is the author’s vivid narrative of Quaid’s final travel from Quetta to Karachi on the day he passed away.
Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh’s account provides an opportunity for historians and researchers to seek answers to a key question: who is responsible for the criminal neglect in making the logistical arrangements which led to Quaid’s death on September 11, 1948?”
Ilahi Bakhsh was born in 1904 in Chak Mughlai, district Jullunder, East Punjab, to the family of eye specialist Hikmah. At age 16 he went to England, to study medicine at Guy’s Hospital, the University of London, and Oxford. In 1947 at age 43, Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh became the first Muslim Principal of King Edward Medical College, Lahore, at a time when the British and Indian faculty had left Pakistan. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh also played a pivotal role in laying the foundation of modern medical education in Pakistan. He has also authored “Modern Medical Treatment” published in 1956.
Recalling his admiration for Quaid-i-Azam, Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh writes, “I loved the Quaid-i-Azam as my own father and know he had begun to like me very much. Whenever I met him during my professional visits he always greeted me with a smile. Whenever I requested him to do anything concerning his treatment he always respected my advice.”
In the foreword, Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah writes, “Col. Ilahi Bakhsh was sent for during the second half of July 1948, when the Quaid-i-Azam’s health suddenly took a turn for the worse. Ever since he came to Ziarat, Col. Ilahi Bakhsh toiled ceaselessly and left nothing to be desired in his treatment of the Quad-i-Azam. The recovery that manifested itself during the initial stages of his treatment did not endure for long. But as far as the medical experts were concerned, they rendered sincere and yeomen services and did everything to arrest the disease, but God willed otherwise…The Quid-i-Azam fought all his battles single-handed, with courage, fortitude, and determination. Often his firm adherence to what he considered to be right and his tenacity of purpose was misunderstood by lesser people as obstinacy. He never wanted to share his sorrow with others. He suffered patiently and alone, until at last, alas, it was too late. And even then, he would have preferred to fight all alone…the Quaid-i-Azam was anxious that the nature of his ailment should not be divulged even to me. Even after his ghastly ailment was known to him, he remained perfectly calm and unperturbed. He knew full well, how people loved him and wanted to spare them a deep agony as far as he could. When he died, at his bedside, there was nobody except his doctors and myself!... For several years before his death, there was a constant tug of war between his physicians who warned him to take long intervals of rest and short hours of hard work, but he did exactly the opposite, knowing full well the risk he was running, but cheerfully pursuing the task he had set himself, the attainment of Pakistan and the events that followed. After the establishment of Pakistan and the events that followed, he worked harder still. Often his doctors complained to me that he ignored their advice. Nor could I persuade him to pay enough attention to his failing health. His frail body could bear the burden no longer. His unconquerable spirit helped him to ignore the dark forebodings, writ large in his failing health…The Quid-i-Azam is no more. He lived so that Pakistan may come into being. He died so that Pakistan may live. Pakistan Zindabad.”
When Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh arrived in Ziarat he noticed that the Quaid was too weak and was not eating much. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh with the help of Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah prepared a special menu for the Quaid. In this regard, the author writes, “By the end of the third week in August he was having much more food and digesting it…He was very fond of spaghetti, and among the fruits he liked were peaches and grapes…One day Miss Jinnah told me that Quaid-i-Azam wanted to know if he could take some suji ka halwa. I was a bit hesitant, but Quaid-i-Azam was very keen, I told her there would be no harm in allowing him a small quantity, provided only a very small amount of clarified butter was used in preparing it. She then informed me that her brother enjoyed the halwa with purees, and wanted to know if he could have some in case he asked for them. I told her that he should take only halwa. I gave the same advice to the Quad-i-Azam when I saw him later, but he said ‘You do not know the type of purees I mean. They are not like those you see in the bazaar, and are very light.’ He then went on to explain to me how they were prepared, and I could see how keen he was to have them.”
Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh declined to let Quaid have the purees at that stage. That evening when Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh visited the Residency, Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah informed him that Quaid-i-Azam had taken halwa and enjoyed it very much. When Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh asked her if Quaid-i-Azam had taken the purees also, in reply she only smiled. When Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh asked Quaid-i-Azam if he had taken the purees with halwa, the Quaid replied, “Yes, only one, and I am none the worse for it, and hope to have my usual dinner.”
Quaid-i-Azam was known for his punctuality and he wanted others to follow that habit. One day Quaid-i-Azam agreed to see Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh at 8 o’clock in the morning. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh wanted to give some extra time to Quaid to rest so he arrived at 8:35 am; Quaid-i-Azam said to Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh, “ But I told you to come at 8. I expect my doctors to be punctual.”
Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh recalls that when he first examined the Quaid-i-Azam at Ziarat he found his bedroom littered with files though Quaid was too weak to do much work. While the Quaid’s doctors were busy treating him, Quaid always wanted to keep abreast of the state of affairs and his mind was preoccupied with the future of Kashmir. The author recalls, “Once, when his temperature was high and he was restless, Miss Jinnah had heard him mutter something about it. On another occasion, in a similar condition, he had been distinctly heard to say, ‘The Kashmir Commission have an appointment with me today, why haven’t they turned up? Where are they?’ His rambling worried us, but we were greatly moved by this evidence of his abounding solicitude for Kashmir. To the last this unresolved problem continued to prey on his mind and engage his deepest thoughts and feelings.”
The author also narrates his experience of weighing the Quaid-i-Azam, “We were shocked to note that his weight was only 80 lbs…and his height was 5’ 10 ½” … this was after four weeks of normal temperature and on a very nourishing and adequate diet… I guessed he must have gained 8 to 10 lbs during the last four weeks. If we had weighed him then, he could not have been more than 70 lbs. He told me that his lowest weight, reached after an illness some years ago, was 90 lbs and that his normal weight was just under 8 stones.”
The author also cites a joyous occasion in Quaid’s treatment. When doctors suggested to the Quaid that that the sooner he goes to Karachi the better it would be for his walking exercises, the Quaid replied, ‘Go slow. Don’t hustle me. I do want to get up and walk about but am not sufficiently strong yet. Don’t think I am not keen to go out of bed, and don’t apply to me the treatment which a doctor did to a woman who said she couldn’t walk. She was seriously ill and confined to bed for many months. When she recovered from her illness, the doctor told her to get up, but she said she was too weak to do so. After about a week the doctor again told her to get up, but she continued to malinger. After that another doctor was consulted, who examined her from head to foot, and said there was nothing wrong with her, she must get up and walk about, but she refused to follow his advice too.’ Then the Quaid paused for a few seconds and looking at Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh with his piercing gaze, continued, ‘Then another doctor came, who like you was all for quick action. He set fire to the bed without her knowledge, and made the feigning patient jump out of it and takes to heels.’ And then the Quaid laughed and said, ‘Don’t do that with me.’ All doctors joined in the laughter.
Quaid-i-Azam was a man of principles. He never used national exchequer for himself or allowed anyone to do that. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh also praises the Quaid for his unique trait: “He never accepted anything from anybody without paying for it.” When the authors tried to convince Quaid to order some woolen pajamas for him, the Quaid said, “Listen, Doctor, take my advice. Whenever you spend money on anything, on anything, think twice whether it is necessary, in fact, essential, or not.”
When doctors noticed a swelling on the Quaid’s leg they informed him that they would like to move him from high altitude Ziarat to low altitude Quetta on August 13, 1948. The Quaid objected to the date; he told Col. Ilahi, “Have you considered that the 14th of August is the first Anniversary of Independence, and you want me to move on its eve? This is impossible. The earliest would be the 15th.” After arriving in Quetta, when Col. Ilahi Bakhsh told the Quaid that the height of Ziarat was too much for him and that after some improvement his condition stopped improving. The Quaid smiled and replied, “Yes, I am glad you have brought me here. I was caught in a trap at Ziarat.”
On the morning of August 16th, Quaid’s doctors had him X-rayed and his blood examined. The X-ray picture showed improvement; the hemoglobin and red cells had risen by 20 percent, the white cell count had fallen to the normal limit, and the sedimentation rate had improved by 50 percent. In the evening when Quaid-i-Azam was informed that his X-ray picture showed an improvement of 40 percent in the condition of his lung. The Quaid enquired, “How long will it take it to be 100 percent?” Col. Ilahi Bakhsh writes this was an embarrassing question as we knew it would be almost impossible for him to be completely cured.
In Quetta, Quaid-i-Azam developed an infection. Col. Ilahi Bakhsh and other doctors informed Miss Fatima Jinnah that unless a miracle happened, there was no chance that the Quaid-i-Azam would survive for more than a day or two. Karachi was told to have an ambulance and a nurse ready at the Mauripur airport. Arrangements were made to fly Quaid-i-Azam to Karachi. Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh asked for Quaid’s permission. The author recalls the conversation with Quaid:
‘Sir, would you like to go to Karachi?’
‘Yes.’
‘Sir, would you like to move by plane, would you like to leave within a few minutes?’
‘All right.’
Recalling the trip to the Quetta airport, the author writes, “We were at the aerodrome at two. As the Quaid-i-Azam was being taken on a stretcher to the plane, the crew gave him a salute. To our astonishment, he returned it promptly. He was so weak that he found it difficult to turn in bed, and could not even cough without an effort. We marveled how he had mustered the energy to return the salute so briskly. It was a memorable gesture, symbolic of his sense of duty and discipline even on the verge of death.”
Remembering the plane that was used to transport the ailing Quaid, Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh writes, “The front cabin next to the engine had four cushioned seats; two of which could be converted into a bed. The Quaid-i-Azam was to lie on this improvised bed…Soon we were flying at a height of 7,000 feet and I was looking through the glass window at the rugged scenery of the Quetta hills...the Quaid-i-Azam would take the oxygen for about five minutes and then try to remove the mask, but each time I spoke to him he would look at me, smile and allow me to readjust it…by that time we had left hills and were flying at a height of 4 to 5 thousand feet. I did not consider it necessary to give any more oxygen. The most difficult and risky part of the journey was over…The excellent way in which the Quaid-i-Azam had borne it stirred a faint hope within me…I looked through the window at the flooded areas of Sindh below, and mused over nature’s hostility to our infant state.”
Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh recounts that the plane landed at the Mauripur Aerodrome at 4:15 pm and that there was an ambulance waiting to transport the Quaid, but there was no nurse present. Recalling the arrival in Karachi, the author writes, “It was rather warm Karachi but not uncomfortable as there was a strong breeze...Miss Jinnah and the nurse from Quetta sat in the ambulance, while the Military Secretary, Dr. Mistry, and I followed in the Governor General’s Cadillac. The luggage and the servants were in the truck behind us. We moved from Aerodrome to the Governor-General’s House, a distance of about 9 to 10 miles, at a very slow speed. We had hardly gone four miles when the ambulance stopped. Wondering what had happened, I got out and found that there had been a breakdown due to engine trouble. The driver assured us that he would soon put it right, but fiddled with the engine for about twenty minutes, and the ambulance would not start. Miss Jinnah sent the Military Secretary to fetch another ambulance. ..It was very oppressive in the ambulance, and the Quaid-i-Azam was perspiring in spite of continued fanning by the nurse and the servants…his clothes were wet with perspiration, and with a fairly strong breeze blowing there was a risk of exposure. I examined him and was horrified to find his pulse becoming weak and irregular…what a catastrophe if, having survived the air journey, he were to die by the roadside…I kept on looking distractedly towards the town, but there was no sign of an ambulance. Many trucks and buses were passing up and down, but none of them could be safely used. I felt utterly forlorn and helpless. After an excruciatingly prolonged interval, the ambulance appeared at last. We quickly shifted Quid-i-Azam into the new ambulance and resumed our unhappily interrupted journey…we reached our destination at 6:10 pm, almost two hours after we had landed…I was with the Quaid-i-Azam at 9:15, and on examining him found the pulse feeble and slightly irregular, and there was cold sweat with cold extremities. I hastened to give him an injection of a heart tonic and ordered a circulatory stimulant to be given by mouth but he could not swallow…after another injection…I said reassuring the Quaid-i-Azam, ‘Sir, we have given you an injection to strengthen you, and it will have an effect. God willing, you are going to live.’ The Quaid-i-Azam shook his head and said faintly, ‘No, I am not.’ These were the last words he spoke to anybody before he died about half an hour later.”
On the special role of Quaid-i-Azam, Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh observes, “God had created him as a blessing for the Muslims of this subcontinent, and he had now deemed it fit to take him away from us, and we would never see the like of him again.”
The book concludes with the author’s sense of appreciation for serving the Quaid-i-Azam: “I…thanked God for having chosen me to serve the Father of the Nation during the last days of his life, a melancholy privilege of which I will never cease to cherish the unfading memory.”
After going through Dr. Ilahi Bakhsh’s account, one wonders that someone in the higher echelons of government must have known about the nature of Quaid’s lung disease. To date, a number of questions remain unanswered: why was he sent out to the high altitude, low oxygen, place called Ziarat? Who was responsible for the deliberate act of sending a Mohenjodaro vintage ambulance with no nurse to receive a very frail Quaid at the Mauripur airport? Why it took so long for the second ambulance to arrive while Quaid was sweating in the ambulance that had broken down? Historians and researchers ought to search for answers to these questions.
Today, there are thousands of Pakistani physicians practicing in every corner of the globe; their collective assets are worth tens of billions of dollars; one wonders why don’t they act collectively to bring a positive change in providing healthcare services to the masses in Pakistan? Why don’t they follow the example of Col. Ilahi Bakhsh’s dedicated service?
The book is an interesting read for all book lovers. It is an important historical document; it also sheds light on the personal traits of a great man known as the Quaid-i-Azam (the great leader) Mohammad Ali Jinnah.

Shai Masjid Chitral

 June 10, 2013


Shahi Masjid is a piece of magnificent architecture. The Shahi Masjid was built by Shujaul Mulk in 1924 A.D. Shujaul Mulk was the Mehtar of Chitral or more to say the ruler of Chitral from 1895 to 1936. The building of the Masjid is truly an amazing piece of architecture with pure white marble and engraved art. The architecture truly represents the culture and tradition of Chitral aristocrats. It is located on the bank of the Chitral river adjacent to the Chitral Fort. 

Tuesday, 23 August 2022

Dewan Chand Residence in Walled City Lahore

March 24, 2013

A four Storey tall pre-partition building still stands in the narrow streets of  Kocha Haider Palawan inside the Goomti Bazaar. The residence was constructed in 1934 by a Hindu named Dewan Chand.