Shrine & Mosque of Hazrat Khawaja Bihari Lahore

28-08-2022

(All images copyright 2022 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Hazrat Asad Ullah, known as Hazrat Khwaja Bihari, originated from Bihar and made Lahore his home after pledging his allegiance to Hazrat Mian Mir Saheb. He became a renowned disciple of Hazrat Saheb and passed away during Hazrat Saheb's lifetime in 1020 Hijri (1611 AD). His shrine, accompanied by a mosque, is situated in Mian Mir village in Lahore.

Initially, the grave of Hazrat Khwaja Bihari was positioned on an elevated platform, enclosed by a boundary wall constructed of red sandstone. The structure lacked a roof, and it is believed that the tomb was built under the patronage of the Mughal emperor Dara Shakoh. Over time, the followers of the Saint made several additions and modifications to the shrine.

Recently, the tomb has undergone a rehabilitation process, resulting in an exquisitely designed structure. The tomb is square-shaped, featuring intricate geometric designs and floral paintings on all four sides. In front of the three walls, there are four centered arched openings adorned with marble latticework.

The interior of the tomb is adorned with captivating enameled floral patterns, creating a visually appealing ambiance. Additionally, niches are strategically placed throughout the interior, adding to the aesthetic charm of the shrine.

The newly rehabilitated tomb of Hazrat Khwaja Bihari is a testament to the architectural brilliance and artistic craftsmanship of its time. It serves as a place of reverence and spiritual significance for the followers and devotees of Hazrat Khwaja Bihari, attracting visitors from near and far. The intricate details and ornate decorations reflect the devotion and admiration bestowed upon the revered Saint, providing a serene and tranquil atmosphere for reflection and prayer.

Before Renovation

Pre-Partition Houses near Wajid Ali Khan Haveli inside Walled City Lahore

2013

 

Shrine of Shah Inayat Qadiri - The Spiritual teacher of Baba Bullah Shah

28th August 2022

Shah Inayat Qadiri, a spiritual teacher in the Punjab region of present-day Pakistan, played a significant role in the life of Bulleh Shah, an Ashraf Syedi from an "upper" caste background. Seeking a teacher, Bulleh Shah was drawn to Shah Inayat based on his charm and intelligence, and he decided to become his disciple.

However, Bulleh Shah's family, upon learning that he had chosen an Arain, a member of a "lower" caste, as his teacher, strongly objected and tried to convince him to find someone more "worthy." They questioned how an Arain could be a teacher to a Syed. Influenced by his family's opinions and feeling obligated, Bulleh Shah went to Shah Inayat to inform him that he would no longer be his disciple, citing the differences in their castes as the reason for his decision. In response, Shah Inayat is believed to have uttered a profound statement: "You are not Bulleh, you are lost."

After leaving Shah Inayat, Bulleh Shah became increasingly confused. Shah's words kept echoing in his mind, and his longing and love for his teacher became unbearable. He realized that caste should not matter more than his love for Shah Inayat and recognized the grave mistake he had made. Deeply remorseful, he ran back to his teacher, pleading for forgiveness and proclaiming that despite being a Syed, he considered himself of lesser stature than his great Master, who was an Arain.

However, Shah Inayat, displeased with Bulleh Shah's wavering and shallow mindset, sent him away. Desperate to rectify his actions and seeking to make a grand gesture, Bulleh Shah immersed himself in the world of street dancers known as Kanjrs, who were considered to be from the "lowest" caste. For 12 years, he lived among them, learned their dances, and attempted to "become" one of them—a symbolic penance for his earlier discriminatory behavior. Despite his own high caste status as a Syed, Bulleh Shah found solace in performing the dances of the oppressed Kanjr community.

In a climactic act, Bulleh Shah donned women's clothing worn by Kanj*r women and performed a transcendent dance as a final expression of devotion and repentance for Shah Inayat. This dance was accompanied by his song "Tere Ishq Nachaya" (Your Love has Made me Dance). In the song, Bulleh Shah yearned for Shah Inayat and expressed his willingness to sacrifice anything to catch even a glimpse of him. Sensing Bulleh Shah's sincere devotion and repentance, Shah Inayat forgave him.

The song "Tere Ishq Nachaya," written by Bulleh Shah for his "low" caste teacher, has become a cultural staple across large sections of India and Pakistan. It is sung in villages, cities, weddings, and at various functions, transcending religious boundaries. The song has been adapted into qawwali, folk, hip hop, rock, and even Bollywood versions, with Abida Parveen's rendition of the song evoking intense sentiment among listeners.

While Bulleh Shah's story and his association with Shah Inayat Qadiri have gained prominence in history and cultural expressions, questions remain unanswered. Why did Shah Inayat forgive Bulleh Shah and accept him despite the insults? Although Shah Inayat was a celebrated poet and saint, he does not occupy a position of equal eminence in history as Bulleh Shah. Additionally, it is intriguing to consider the perspective of the Kanj*r community, their thoughts on Bulleh Shah's act of "penance" within the context of their own lives, and whether they resisted or embraced his involvement.

Shah Inayat Qadiri, born in 1646 and passing away in 1728, is honored at the Shrine of Shah Inayat Qadri, situated on Queens Road.

The Forgotten Shams Garden and Shrine of Hazrat Shah Shamas Qari Lahore

28-08-2022

The tomb, which dates back to the period of Emperor Shah Jahan, holds historical significance. Originally, it consisted of a raised platform with a simple missionary wall surrounding it. Over time, followers of the saint made various additions to the tomb, incorporating modern construction materials and enhancing its overall appearance.

During Emperor Shah Jahan's reign, he displayed a deep interest in religion and emphasized a stricter adherence to shari'a (Islamic law). Qari Shah Shams, a spiritual mentor, held great significance for Shah Jahan. Following Qari Saheb's death in 1031 Hijri (1622 A.D), Shah Jahan allocated a sizable area of land surrounding the shrine in his honor.

On this land, a garden was cultivated, and it became renowned as Shams Garden during the seventeenth century. Notably, the present-day Race Course Park, Lawrence Garden, and parts of GOR-1 were once encompassed within this expansive Shams Garden.

However, as power dynamics shifted in Lahore over time, the size of Shams Garden gradually diminished. Now, only the shrine remains as a testament to its historical significance. The shrine serves as a reminder of the spiritual legacy and connection between Emperor Shah Jahan and his esteemed spiritual mentor, Qari Shah Shams.

یہ مقبرہ شہنشاہ شاہ جہاں کے دور کا ہے۔ اصل میں، یہ ایک بلند پلیٹ فارم پر ایک قبر تھی جو ایک سادہ مشنری دیوار سے بند تھی۔ سینٹ کے پیروکاروں نے متعدد اضافہ کیا ہے اور اسے جدید تعمیراتی سامان سے سجایا ہے۔
شہنشاہ شاہجہان کو مذہب میں گہری دلچسپی تھی اور اس کے دور کی خصوصیت شریعت کی سختی سے پابندی تھی۔ شاہ جہاں قاری شاہ شمس کو اپنا روحانی مرشد مانتا ہے اور 1031 ہجری (1622 عیسوی) میں قاری صاحب کی وفات کے بعد۔ شاہ جہاں نے روضہ اقدس کے اردگرد زمین کا ایک بڑا رقبہ مختص کیا۔
اس زمین پر ایک باغ ہوا اور وہ علاقہ سترہویں صدی میں شمس باغ کے نام سے مشہور ہوا۔ آج کا ریس کورس پارک، لارنس گارڈن اور GOR-1 کی زمین بھی اس شمس گارڈن کا حصہ تھی۔
لاہور میں اقتدار کی تبدیلی کے ساتھ ہی شمس گارڈن کا سائز کم ہوتا چلا گیا اور اب صرف مزار ہی رہ گیا ہے۔

Baba Shah Jamal who stands against Emperor Akbar

28th August 2022

Baba Shah Jamal, also known as Hussaini Syed, was born in 1588 CE. He hailed from a prestigious lineage, with his father being Syed Ahmad Shah bin Syed Shah Dolat Qattal (Dolat Khishan). Syed Shah Jamal was the seventh descendant of Makhdoom Syed Sadruddin Rajan Qattal, who himself was the son of Makhdoom Syed Sultan Ahmad Kabir Bin Makhdoom Syed Jalaluddin Surkh-Posh Bukhari.

Belonging to the Qadiriyyah and Suhrawardiyya schools, Syed Shah Jamal resided in Ichra during the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar the Great. During this time, Emperor Akbar and his council introduced the Din-i-Ilahi ("Divine Faith"), a syncretic religion aimed at merging the best elements of various religions within his empire. The intention behind this was to foster unity and bridge the sectarian differences that divided his subjects. However, Syed Shah Jamal staunchly opposed Akbar's Din-i-Ilahi and worked tirelessly to guide people back to the true essence of Islam.

Syed Shah Jamal passed away in 1671 CE and was laid to rest at Shah Jamal Colony Tomb, located near Muslim Town and across from Forman Christian (FC) College. The surrounding area was subsequently named Shah Jamal in his honor, serving as a lasting tribute to his contributions and spiritual legacy. His unwavering commitment to preserving the principles of Islam has left a lasting impact on the community.

بابا شاہ جمال 1588ء میں پیدا ہوئے۔ انہیں حسینی سید کے نام سے بھی جانا جاتا ہے۔ آپ کے والد کا نام سید احمد شاہ بن سید شاہ دولت قتال (دولت خیشان) تھا۔ سید شاہ جمال مخدوم سید صدرالدین راجن قتال کی ساتویں اولاد تھے جو مخدوم سید سلطان احمد کبیر بن مخدوم سید جلال الدین سرخ پوش بخاری کے فرزند تھے۔

سید شاہ جمال کا تعلق مکتب قادریہ اور سہروردیہ سے تھا۔ وہ مغل بادشاہ اکبر اعظم کے زمانے میں اچھرہ میں رہتا تھا۔ شہنشاہ نے اپنے مشیروں کی کونسل کے ساتھ مل کر دین الٰہی ("الٰہی عقیدہ") کو ایک ہم آہنگ مذہب متعارف کرایا جس کا مقصد اپنی سلطنت کے مذاہب کے بہترین عناصر (بنیادی طور پر ہندو مذہب اور اسلام؛ عناصر سے بھی لیا گیا تھا۔ عیسائیت، جین مت اور زرتشتی) اور اس طرح فرقہ وارانہ اختلافات کو ختم کیا جس نے اس کے مضامین کو تقسیم کیا۔ سید شاہ جمال نے اکبر کی دین الٰہی سے جنگ کی اور لوگوں کو اسلام کی اصل روح کی طرف واپس لایا۔ اس بزرگ کا انتقال 1671 عیسوی میں ہوا اور انہیں فورمین کرسچن (ایف سی) کالج کے بالمقابل مسلم ٹاؤن کے قریب شاہ جمال کی شاہ جمال کالونی مقبرہ میں دفن کیا گیا۔ ان کے اعزاز میں اس علاقے کا نام شاہ جمال رکھا گیا ہے۔

A Forgotten Dak Chowki (Mail Station) in Lahore

27th August 2022

Nestled behind Shalimar Hospital in Lahore city, a hidden gem awaits those seeking a glimpse into the past - the graveyard and mosque of the revered religious scholar, Chota Mian Saheb. Chota Mian Saheb, the younger brother of the renowned Quranic preacher Mian Muhammad Ismail Suharwardy, known as Mian Wadda, left behind a legacy that still resonates in the hearts of many.

Within the precincts of Chota Mian Saheb's graveyard, a weathered quarter constructed from ancient Badshahi Bricks stands as a testament to the passage of time. These bricks, which later earned the moniker of Lahori bricks, were first employed during the illustrious reign of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. The quarter, boasting a rectangular shape, reveals an extended roof that gracefully covers all four sides. While the walls bear the marks of defaced architectural embellishments, their design patterns harken back to the grandeur of Mughal edifices scattered across the Punjab region. Sadly, an unseemly steel door has been installed on one of the walls, detracting from the original aesthetic charm.

Originally, this quarter served as a Dakh Chowki, a mail station believed to have been erected during the era of Shah Jahan. Many decades ago, remnants of a pond adorned the front of the quarter, presumably providing much-needed refreshment to weary horses during their travels.

Despite its current state of disrepair, the quarter exudes an undeniable historical significance, offering a captivating window into the architectural and functional aspects of eras long gone. The presence of the Badshahi Bricks, with their rich history, and the vestiges of the mail station, serve as poignant reminders of the vibrant Mughal heritage and the pivotal role it played in facilitating communication and transportation during its time.

Standing in the presence of this weathered quarter, one can almost envision the bustling activity that once filled the air. Couriers, mounted on swift horses, would have arrived with news from distant lands, while travelers would have sought refuge within its walls. The quarter stands as a silent witness to the stories of the past, holding within it the echoes of a bygone era.

While the ravages of time have left their mark on this architectural treasure, it remains a cherished reminder of the enduring legacy of the Mughal era. It urges us to appreciate the rich history that surrounds us and to preserve and protect these fragments of the past for future generations to behold and admire. Within the walls of Chota Mian Saheb's quarter, the essence of Lahore's cultural tapestry and its historical grandeur intertwine, inviting all who visit to immerse themselves in the captivating narrative of our shared heritage.

لاہور شہر میں شالیمار ہسپتال کے پیچھے اپنے وقت کے عظیم عالم دین چھوٹے میاں صاحب کا قبرستان اور مسجد موجود ہے۔ چھوٹے میاں صاحب مشہور قرآنی مبلغ میاں محمد اسماعیل سہروردی کے چھوٹے بھائی تھے جنہیں عرف عام میں میاں وڈا کہا جاتا ہے۔

چھوٹے میاں صاحب کے قبرستان کے درمیان پرانی بادشاہی اینٹوں سے تعمیر شدہ خستہ حال کوارٹر ابھی تک کھڑا ہے۔ تعمیر میں بادشاہی اینٹوں کا استعمال (جو بعد میں لاہوری اینٹوں کے نام سے بھی جانا جاتا ہے) مغل شہنشاہ شاہ جہاں کے دور میں شروع ہوا تھا۔ چوتھائی مستطیل ہے، جس کے چاروں اطراف ایک توسیع شدہ چھت ہے۔ دیواروں پر، خستہ حال آرکیٹیکچرل  کی باقیات ہیں۔ یہ ڈیزائن کے نمونے عام طور پر پنجاب کے ارد گرد مغل عمارتوں میں پائے جاتے ہیں۔ دیواروں میں سے ایک پر بدصورت نظر آنے والا فولادی دروازہ نصب کیا گیا ہے۔

یہ سہ ماہی بنیادی طور پر ایک ڈاک چوکی تھی، ایک ڈاک اسٹیشن جو غالباً شاہ جہاں کے دور میں تعمیر کیا گیا تھا۔ چند دہائیاں قبل اس کے سامنے ایک تالاب کی باقیات بھی موجود ہیں جو یقیناً پیاسے گھوڑوں کی خدمت کرتا تھا۔

The Saint who got the powers to command Serpents

Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti Lahore (Pir Sanpon Wala)

20th August 2022

The shrine of Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti is situated in the Begumpura area of Lahore, encapsulated within a walled enclosure. A notable feature within this sacred space is a raised platform that holds two tombs. One tomb is dedicated to Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti himself, while the other honors his son, Syed Barkatullah Shah.

Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti held the esteemed position of being the spiritual guide to Nawab Abdul Samad Khan, known as Diler Jang, who served as the Viceroy of Lahore during the reign of Mahmood Shah. Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti passed away in 1120 A.H. (1708 A.D.), leaving behind a legacy of spiritual guidance and devotion.

Almost a century later, the shrine experienced a resurgence in attention due to a series of mysterious incidents. At that time, Punjab was under the rule of Ranjeet Singh, a Sikh ruler. He stationed a portion of his troops in the vicinity of the shrine. Unfortunately, the behavior of the soldiers was unwise, leading to some being bitten by snakes and subsequently losing their lives. Filled with fear and attributing the calamity to the displeasure of the saint, the troopers abandoned the area. This incident gave rise to the name "Pir Sanpon Wala," meaning the saint with command over serpents.

Over time, the tomb has undergone reconstruction, making it challenging to discern the age and specific construction materials used. The walls of the shrine are adorned with enameled decorations, adding to its visual appeal and mystique.

In the writings of the renowned historian Latief from 1895, reference is made to another tomb in close proximity to Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti's tomb. This tomb, known as "Bagga Gumbad," honored Yahya Khan, the eldest son of Nawab Zakariya Khan. Yahya Khan assumed the role of governor of Lahore under the Mughals in 1745 following the passing of his father. Sadly, no remnants of this tomb remain today.

The presence of shrine of Syed Rahmatullah Shah Chishti, with its rich history and associated legends, serves as a significant cultural and spiritual landmark in Lahore, embodying the devotion and reverence of its followers.

سید رحمت اللہ شاہ چشتی کا مزار لاہور کے علاقے بیگم پورہ میں واقع ہے۔

چاردیواری کے اندر، ایک اونچے چبوترے پر، دو مقبرے ہیں، ایک سید رحمت اللہ شاہ چشتی کی اور دوسری ان کے بیٹے سید برکت اللہ شاہ کی۔ رحمت اللہ شاہ محمود شاہ کے دور حکومت میں نواب عبدالصمد خان، دلیر جنگ، وائسرائے لاہور کے روحانی رہنما تھے اور ان کا انتقال 1120 ہجری (1708ء) میں ہوا۔

ان کے انتقال کے تقریباً ایک سو سال بعد اس سنت کی یاد میں اس وقت ہوا جب ان کے مزار پر کچھ پراسرار واقعات رونما ہونے لگے۔ پنجاب میں سکھ حکمران رنجیت سنگھ کی حکومت تھی۔ اس نے اس سہ ماہی کے قریب اپنے فوجیوں کے ایک حصے کا پتہ لگایا۔ دستے کے جوانوں نے لاپرواہی سے کام لیا، اور ان میں سے کچھ کو سانپ نے ڈس لیا اور مر گئے۔ سپاہیوں پر خوف طاری ہو گیا، اور محلے کو اس خیال کے تحت چھوڑ دیا گیا کہ اس کے ناجائز استعمال کی وجہ سے ولی کی ناراضگی آفت کا سبب ہے، اس لیے لوگ اسے پیر سنپون والا یا سانپوں کا حکم رکھنے والا ولی کہنے لگے۔

وقت گزرنے کے ساتھ ساتھ اس مقبرے کی تعمیر نو کی گئی اور اوجہ سے اس عمارت کی تعمیر میں استعمال ہونے والے تعمیراتی مواد کی عمر اور قسم کو سمجھنا مشکل ہو گیا۔

مشہور مورخ لطیف نے بھی 1895 میں اپنی تحریروں میں اس مقبرے کے قریب ایک اور مقبرے کی موجودگی کا ذکر کیا تھا، 'بگا گمبد'، یہ یحییٰ خان کا مقبرہ تھا، وہ نواب زکریا خان کے بڑے بیٹے تھے، جو اس مقبرے کے قریب ہی موجود تھے۔ اپنے والد کی وفات کے بعد 1745 میں مغلوں کے دور میں لاہور کا گورنر۔ اب اس مقبرے کی کوئی باقیات باقی نہیں رہی۔