Chattar Plain of Manshera which was named after Sikh General Raja Chattar Singh Attariwalla

April 29, 2014

The journey along the Shinkiari-KKH route takes travelers through serene pine plantations, gradually ascending into a captivating bowl-shaped region known as Chattar Plain. This picturesque area derives its name from Sikh General Raja Chattar Singh Attariwalla, who once served as the Governor of Hazara province and held a prominent military position within the Sikh Empire during the reign of Maharaja Duleep Singh in Punjab.

Raja Chattar Singh actively participated in the Second Anglo-Sikh War, bravely leading Sikh forces against the British. Born to Jodh Singh Attariwalla, he had two sons named Raja Sher Singh Attariwalla and Avtār Singh. Raja Sher Singh notably dealt a devastating blow to the army of the British East India Company during the Battle of Chillianwala. Interestingly, Raja Chattar Singh's daughter, Tej Kaur, was betrothed to Maharaja Duleep Singh. However, after the conclusion of the First Anglo-Sikh War, the British Resident, Sir Frederick Currie, failed to honor the betrothal agreement.

Upon the passing of his father in August 1815, Chatar Singh inherited substantial estates and dedicated himself to farming and managing his properties. In 1843, after the assassination of Maharaja Sher Singh, he rose to political prominence. Additionally, his daughter Tej Kaur was betrothed to Maharaja Duleep Singh. In the same year, he assumed the role of Governor of Peshawar, and the following year, the Council of Regency recommended him for the title of Raja. However, Raja Chattar Singh graciously requested that the title be conferred upon his son, Sher Singh.

Appointed as the Governor of the Hazara province in 1848, Raja Chattar Singh found himself in conflict with Captain James Abbott, the British Deputy Commissioner of the Hazara District. Captain Abbott accused Raja Chattar Singh of conspiring against British authority in Punjab. Sir Frederick Currie, the British Resident in Lahore, responded by commissioning an investigation led by Captain John Nicholson. The investigation not only exonerated Raja Chattar Singh but also justified the defensive measures he had taken to protect the besieged capital of Hazārā from Abbott's Muhammadan mercenaries. Despite this vindication, Currie effectively dismissed Raja Chattar Singh and confiscated his estates. Moreover, the failure of the British Resident to honor the betrothal between Raja Chattar Singh's sister and Maharaja Duleep Singh prompted Raja Sher Singh to change sides. In the Second Anglo-Sikh War, Raja Sher Singh inflicted a significant blow upon the British during the Battle of Chillianwala but was ultimately defeated in the subsequent Battle of Gujrat. Following these events, Raja Chattar Singh and his sons, Raja Sher Singh and Avtār Singh, were first imprisoned in Allahabad and later at Fort William in Calcutta.

The decline of the Durranis cleared the path for the rise of the Sikhs under Ranjit Singh. The Sikhs invaded Mansehra in 1818, facing resilient resistance from its inhabitants. When the Sikhs gained control over Mansehra, it became annexed to Punjab. Ultimately, in 1831, during a fierce battle at Balakot, Syed Ahmad Shaheed lost his life, solidifying Sikh control over Mansehra. However, with the demise of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the Sikh Empire began to disintegrate.

During the Sikh invasion of Hazara, Painda Khan Tanoli, the tribal chief of the Tanolis, valiantly rebelled against the governors appointed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Painda Khan's rebellion against the Sikhs persisted from around 1813 until Sikh power declined in 1845. During this time, his son Jehandad Khan blockaded no less than 22 Sikh posts in Upper Tanawal, ultimately sparing the lives of the surrendering soldiers as the servants of a fallen empire.

Simultaneously, other chiefs of Hazara also rose in arms against the Sikh presence in their land. The Muslim population faced severe restrictions under Sikh rule, leading them to invite Syed Akbar of Sitana to become the King of Hazara and wage a holy war against the Sikh invaders. Nuvab Khan of Shingri and Sardar Ghulam Ahmad Khan Tarin joined as Syed Akbar's "Wazirs," while Pir Khan united with the Jaduns, Khan-i-Zeman brought the Tarkheylies, and the Swatis of Publi, along with the Mushwanis, contributed to the battle. For two months, they besieged Diwan Mulraj, the Kardar, in the fort of Harkishengarh (at Haripur). Eventually, after several valiant repulses, they forced the garrison to surrender by cutting off their water supply.

On March 19, 1846, a peace treaty was signed between the Sikhs and the British, resulting in Raja Gulab Singh acquiring Kashmir and Hazara from the British in exchange for 7,500,000 rupees. However, due to widespread civil disorder, Raja Gulab Singh requested the British government to take over Hazara in exchange for the Jammu-Jhelum belt. The British accepted this proposal and assumed control of Hazara. James Abbott was appointed to restore peace in Hazara, and upon his arrival, he defeated Sikh General Chuttar Singh, completely removing Sikh influence from the region. In 1849, as part of the ex-Sikh Lahore/Punjab kingdom, Hazara was formally annexed to British India.

My Visit to Koto Hydropower Project site at Pre-Bidding Stage

April 16, 2014  

The 40.8-megawatt KOTO Hydropower Project is run of river scheme located in the lower Deer District 246 kilometers away from the Capital city of Islamabad. The project is five kilometers upstream of Koto village on the Panjkora river and the powerhouse is located near KOTO village.

Pakhtunkhawa Energy Development Organization (PEDO) has financed the project worth 133.64 Million US dollars. The expected commissioning date is June 2020. The project will supply 40.8 Megawatt of power and generate 205 Gigawatt hours of energy annually which will assist in meeting the power demand of the country and also help reduce load shedding. On completion, it will generate revenue of 1970 million rupees annually at full capacity and help overcome power outages in the province

During heavy rains and a recent flood in river Panjkoorra, some components of the Koto hydropower Project were badly affected. The commissioning date of the project may be delayed due to recent damages.

I visited the project site during the pre-bidding phase in 2014.

The Cauliflower Fields of Rajgarh LAhore

13th November 2022

My mom was cooking Cauliflower in the morning, and my father asked her do u know what I remembered whenever u cooked cauliflower at the home? My mom replied yes the cauliflower farms of #rajgarh Chauburji, now that area is concrete jungle not a single inch of plot left in that vicinity

A British- Era Flood monitoring Check Post on Old route of River Ravi

 Pictures from 2010 to 2021

If one travels on the M-11 motorway from Lahore, the bridge on river Ravi lies roughly at 6 kilometers from the start.

This six-kilometer of road constructed on the old dry bed of the River Ravi. The level of this bed is thirty to forty feet down from the road and was present in the form of dunes. The locals called them 'Ravi Bhela'. For many years it was a hideout for criminals. I am used visiting this area for the last fifteen years without considering harmful consequences in mind.

The topic of discussion here is an old British-era check post that used to be present till the last few years. It was already vandalized years ago and recently I found it disappeared, luckily I have taken a photograph of it a few years back.

standing at check post

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

Old dry Bed of River Ravi

ＢＥＧＵＭＰＵＲＡ ＧＡＲＤＥＮ ＧＡＴＥＷＡＹ (2014)

  January 14, 2014

Situated a mere thirty meters away from the Nawab Zakirya mosque and Mehal, stands a site of immense historical significance. This location boasts a tall and impressive multifold arch, once a grand architectural marvel, now inhabited by local residents. Continuing beyond this arch, one can find a floor constructed with bricks dating back to the glorious Mughal era. However, despite its remarkable heritage, this site has suffered from neglect by the responsible authorities and is now in a state of distress, desperately requiring preservation and conservation efforts. Regrettably, it is presently being utilized as a dwelling, with a blatant disregard for its profound historical value.

The proximity of this site to the Nawab Zakirya mosque and Mehal attests to its close association with the rich cultural and architectural heritage of the region. The tall multifold arch, once a magnificent structure that undoubtedly commanded attention, now serves as a backdrop for the daily lives of local residents. Its architectural grandeur, a testament to the skills and craftsmanship of the past, still captivates those who behold it.

Continuing beyond the arch, one is greeted by a floor constructed using bricks from the Mughal era. These bricks, weathered by time, carry the weight of history within their very composition. Each brick tells a story, connecting the present to a bygone era, where the Mughal empire reigned supreme.

My Visit to Cypress Tomb Lahore 2014

  January 14, 2014

Cypress Tomb (Saruwala Maqbara) is in close vicinity of the Gulabi Bagh and lies directly north of Dai Anga's tomb, it is not accessible from there due to the various buildings that have been constructed in the area. No doubt, at one time the gardens of these sepulchers were inter-connected.

To visit the unusual monument of Cypress Tomb, you will have to take a left turn on Begampura Road going east on G.T. Road. Turning right (east) through a locality known as Sharif Park and turning left again (north) you will reach your destination. The tomb, however, is not directly visible, because of the houses that surround the monument. But once the location is pointed out and as you turn left, you will not have any difficulty in locating it since it is only slightly set back from the road, and is accessible by car.

The tomb of Sharf-un-Nisa Begam is popularly known as 'Saruwala' Maqbara because of images of cypress trees rendered in square ceramic tiles, rather than the tile mosaic seen in Gulabi Bagh Gateway, as a decorative feature. The begam was a sister of Nawab Zakariya Khan, governor of Lahore during the reign of Emperor Mohammad Shah.

The tomb was the last worth-nothing building of the later Mughal Period constructed at Lahore in 1745. The tower-like form, sporting slightly battered walls, is unique in itself. The tomb for its unusual shape and facade decoration of the cypress motif is considered to be the jewel of Mughal architecture in Lahore.

The building was constructed to cater to Sharf-un-Nisa Begam's requirement of daily visits to the first-floor chamber, 16' above the ground. There, after reading the Holy Quran she would deposit the holy book as well as her jeweled sword, descending using a removable wooden ladder. After her death, she was buried in the same chamber, along with a copy of the holy book and her jeweled sword. Respecting her wishes to keep her mortal remains out of sight and inaccessible, all openings were blocked up, providing a blank appearance in the battered walls on all four sides.

Due to the desecration carried out on this 18th-century tomb during the Sikh rule—it was believed that the tower contained treasure and breaking open the grave, the holy book, and the jeweled sword was removed—decorative features are extant only in the upper part of this two-story structure.

Square in the plan, the tomb is a solid, tower-like tapering brick structure with chajja near the top of the dome. The chamber is covered by a single dome of a four-sided pyramidal shape. The drum has a low neck. A band of color-glazed tiles runs around the neck of the dome. It is embellished with the attributes of Allah in superb calligraphy. The burial chamber can only be approached by the use of a moveable ladder. The idea behind such a structure is that even the grave of the purdah-observing lady should be kept out of the public's view. The low-pitched four-sided pyramidal dome, over a double drum, is a unique feature of this tomb. The dome is covered with glazed tiles in blue and white colors finished in zig-zag patterns. The projecting chajja (eaves), and a pyramidal low roof, similar to the one seen in the tomb of Hazrat Mian Mir provide a fitting termination.

The exterior of the tomb is embellished with colorful cypress trees. These cypresses, four on each side, are intercepted by little blooming flower plants, all in enameled square tile mosaic work on the plaster base. The tomb was surrounded by a large garden at the time of its construction; now it is hemmed in by houses, leaving a small garden used by the local youth to play cricket, as is the case in many of the remaining tombs' gardens.

Remains of Mahabat Khan Garden Lahore 2014

 January 14, 2014

Once a splendid oasis, this garden now stands in ruins, a forgotten relic of the Chahar Bagh Gardens that once graced the road to Shalimar Gardens, a testament to the opulence of the Mughal nobility. Situated to the west of the Shalimar Gardens and south of Baghbanpura, the garden was once encircled by a towering masonry wall. Sadly, the passage of time has taken its toll, and much of the garden has been encroached upon by the local populace, leaving only fragments of the original wall intact.

In local parlance, this garden is fondly referred to as "Saithan di Bagheechi." The ancient gateway, located on the western side, bears the marks of time, while additional stories were added by Parsi merchants from Bombay who owned the property in the late 1800s. A newer gateway once stood to the north, but it now exists only in traces, engulfed by the houses that surround the garden. On the eastern and southern sides, there were once rooms and chambers constructed with sturdy bricks, but these structures have long since vanished. To the south, a modest mosque once graced the garden, though it has undergone extensive renovations.

The garden's creation is attributed to Mahabat Khan, also known as Khan-e-Khanan, Yamin-ud-Daula. Born as Zamana Beg, he was the son of Ghyur Beg from Kabul. In his autobiography, Emperor Jahangir writes of Zamana Beg, stating, "Zamana Beg, son of Ghayur Beg, held the dignity of 500 when I was Crown Prince. Upon my accession, he received the title of Mahabat Khan and a mansab of 1500 and was appointed Paymaster of my household."

In the seventeenth year of Jahangir's reign, Mahabat Khan was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army with a mansab of 7000. He was sent to confront Shah Jahan and emerged victorious in a battle near Allahabad. Mahabat Khan passed away in 1634, having achieved the prestigious position of Khan-e-Khanan and serving as the head of the military administration. Shah Jahan made arrangements for Mahabat Khan's eldest son, who eventually ascended to the Governorship of Kabul, inheriting his father's title.

Subsequently, Maharaja Ranjit Singh bestowed the garden upon Faqir Aziz-ud-Din, who diligently cared for its upkeep. Following Faqir Aziz-ud-Din's demise, his successor, Faqir Charagh-ud-Din, sold the garden to Jahangirji & Co., a Parsi merchant group.

In the heart of the garden, now in a state of ruin, rests a substantial masonry grave atop a spacious platform. Both Chishti and Sarwar attribute this tomb to Mahabat Khan. Curiously, Latif's historical account of Lahore makes no mention of this grave. Mahabat Khan passed away in the Deccan region in 1634, and his body was transported to Delhi, where he was laid to rest on the grounds of the shrine of Qadam Sharif. Hence, the identity of the interred individual in Mahabat Khan's Garden remains a mystery, at least for now. It is plausible that the Mahabat Khan associated with this garden is an entirely different figure, given the existence of numerous other individuals bearing the name Mahabat Khan throughout Mughal history. For instance, one of Zamana Beg's own sons was bestowed with the title Mahabat Khan upon his father's demise.

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