𝗧𝗵𝗲 400 𝘆𝗲𝗮𝗿 𝗼𝗹𝗱 𝗠𝗼𝘀𝗾𝘂𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗗𝗮𝗶 𝗔𝗻𝗴𝗮 𝗶𝗻 𝗟𝗮𝗵𝗼𝗿𝗲

January 14, 2014, & 14th August 2022

Located in the Naulakha area, southeast of the fortress-like railway station stands a remarkable Mughal mosque. To reach this architectural marvel, one can embark on a journey from the railway station, or opt for the simpler route of traveling northeast on Nicholson Road from Qila Gujjar Singh Chowk. Continuing straight across Allama Iqbal Road, passing notable landmarks like the Presbyterian Church and Boharwala Chowk, the journey leads to a comparatively narrow road that gracefully curves left, culminating in a gate guarding the railway platform beyond the fence.

Behind the gate on the left resides a mosque, constructed by the esteemed Dai Anga Zeb-un-Nisa, who held the prestigious role of a wet nurse to Emperor Shah Jahan. Her family shared close ties with the Mughal imperial family, with her husband Morad Khan serving as Adawlati, or Magistrate of Bikaner, under Jahangir's rule. Her son Muhammad Rashid Khan, renowned as one of the kingdom's finest archers, valiantly fought in the service of Shah Jahan's eldest son, Dara Shikoh. Zeb-un-Nisa herself earned high regard from Emperor Shah Jahan.

Upon passing through the gate, one is instantly captivated by the awe-inspiring structure of Dai Anga's mosque. While the building has undergone restoration work over time, some elements reflect later-period restorative efforts. Nevertheless, the magnificence of the original structure remains intact.

The mosque's design follows a single-aisle 3-bay plan, a simplified iteration of the Mughals' breathtaking mosque architecture. The prayer chamber is divided into three compartments by lateral arches, with the central bay adorned with exceptional ornamentation. The customary arched recess, deeply embedded in the western wall, serves as the mihrab. Crowned with high double domes resting on squinches composed of eight small arched panels, the mihrab stands alongside flanking counterparts. The side bays, adorned with slightly less intricate embellishments, feature double domes supported by pendentives. Notably, the central compartment projects forward, distinguished by an engrailed arch and a half-dome adorned with tiled panels. Slender pilasters mark the projected frame's corners, while square minarets grace the eastern corners of the prayer chamber, once topped with a carved platform that housed a kiosk.

The exterior surface of the projection, along with the flanking compartments, boasts numerous decorative panels of diverse shapes, sizes, and designs. These panels come alive with mesmerizing fluoridate patterns created through mosaic kashi techniques. The dominant colors in the tilery, both on the exterior and interior panels, encompass shades of blue, orange, and yellow. The facade's division into scintillating multicolored tile mosaics, a favored decorative medium during Shah Jahan's era, resulted in one of the most remarkable facades of that period. The domes, though plastered, feature pronounced cavettos reminiscent of the treatment found at Lahore Fort's Moti Mosque. Anchoring the mosque's imposing character are a central 19' diameter dome flanked by two 16' domes and corner minarets. The central lofty Timurid aiwan alcove, accompanied by two smaller ones, stands resplendent with exquisite embellishments, complementing the facade's allure.

Rising majestically from square bases at the two front extremities are tall minarets, culminating in kiosk-like structures crowned with cupolas. Although they now boast a simpler treatment, it is evident that these minarets were once adorned with tile mosaics, much like those found in Shah Jahan's grandee, Wazir Khan's mosque. The 84' wide platform, likely part of the mosque courtyard in the past, showcases beautifully laid brick flooring arranged in a simple square pattern. Within the courtyard, where the mosque proudly stands, traces of an ablution tank have been discovered, hinting at the existence of a second tank.

According to historical accounts, it is believed that the mosque was constructed in 1045 AH/1635 AD, before Dai Anga embarked on her pilgrimage to Hajj. However, an inscription within the mosque dates back to 1060 AH/1649 AD. The mosque thrived under the patronage of Dai Anga, who generously bequeathed her extensive property for its maintenance, ensuring its frequent visitation by worshippers. As the Mughal Empire waned, the mosque, like many other Mughal monuments, served as Ranjit Singh's military magazine. Following the British annexation of Punjab, Henry Cope, the editor of the newspaper 'Lahore Chronicle,' had the privilege of utilizing the mosque as his residence. However, when the area, formerly known as Mohallah Dai Anga and inhabited by Mughal nobility, was acquired by Punjab and Delhi Railway Co., Cope sold the mosque residence to them for Rs. 12,000, transforming it into the office of the traffic manager for the Punjab Northern State Railway.

In 1903, after Lord Curzon expressed his dismay at the degraded state of numerous historic monuments, including their inappropriate usage, Dai Anga's mosque was rightfully returned to the Muslim community of Lahore.

The mosque mesmerizes visitors with its splendid exterior and equally majestic interior, although it may be considered "simple" in comparison to other Mughal-era mosques. Its octagonal shape is adorned with minarets at each corner, while a central dome is accompanied by two smaller domes on either side. The mosque stands as a testament to the architectural prowess of the Mughals, capturing the imagination and admiration of all who encounter its awe-inspiring presence.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝘆𝘀𝘁𝗲𝗿𝗶𝗼𝘂𝘀 𝗙𝗶𝘃𝗲 𝗛𝘂𝗻𝗱𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗹𝗱 𝗡𝗲𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗻 𝗠𝗮𝘀𝗷𝗶𝗱 𝗼𝗳 𝗟𝗼𝗱𝗵𝗶 𝗘𝗿𝗮

14th August 2022

In the ancient walled city of Lahore, there are two buildings that hold the distinction of being the oldest and most historic. Unfortunately, these remarkable treasures have received little attention and documentation. These buildings are the pre-Mughal mosques known as Khizri Masjid and Neevin Masjid.

In this discussion, we will focus on Neevin Masjid, as it raises certain issues that warrant exploration. Khizri Masjid has faced the challenge of name changes, a common occurrence that reflects our communal mindset. Hopefully, with time and education, a deeper understanding of history will prevail. However, we will also delve into Khizri Masjid in another piece. To reach Neevin Masjid, one must enter through Lahore's oldest gateway, Lohari Darwaza, which served as the main entrance before the expansion of Lahore by the Mughal emperor Akbar. From there, you head towards Naya Bazaar inside Chowk Matti and then turn towards Kucha Dogran. In the middle of this path lies Neevin Masjid.

This unique mosque is located 25 feet below the ground surface, hence the name Neevin, meaning "low" or "below." The mosque's lower position might explain why it was missed by the Muslim invaders, including the last Mughal invader Babar, who flattened much of the walled city. Perhaps previous invaders also overlooked it for the same reason. The question that has always intrigued me is why it is situated 25 feet below the surface, equivalent to the height of a typical two-story building. Before delving into this question, let's first explore some details about the mosque.

Neevin Masjid was constructed around 560 years ago in 1460 AD during the Lodhi rule over Lahore, making it the oldest structure in the original walled city before Akbar's time. The ruler at that time was Bahlul Lodhi, and the governor of Lahore was Haybat Khan. Zulfikar Khan, an influential official in the court, is credited with building this mosque, and some accounts suggest that he lived next to it.

Some might argue that the grave of Ayaz, the beautiful Georgian slave of the Afghan invader Mahmud, is older. Ayaz, who committed suicide on August 10, 1041, was buried outside the city walls. He was not a governor, as some claim, but rather an adviser or helper. The discovery of his grave came long after the construction of Neevin Masjid, and it fell within the new walled city established during Akbar's reign.

One intriguing aspect of Neevin Masjid is that it remained untouched even during periods of non-Muslim rule when the majority of the population was non-Muslim. While the Badshahi Masjid was converted into a horse stable during Sikh rule, and the British used it for residential purposes, Neevin Masjid was never subjected to such treatment. Perhaps its inconveniences made it unsuitable for non-ritual activities.

Although other mosques in the city have faced similar fates, Neevin Masjid stands apart. There was another Neevin Masjid in Yakki Darwaza, but it was reconstructed at street level, losing its unique characteristics. Thankfully, its name was never changed.

Today, Neevin Masjid is well-maintained because the local population funds its repairs and maintenance. The prayer leader of the mosque, who happens to be a local trader, donates his salary to the mosque's fund. Had the mosque been handed over to local authorities, its condition might have been different. Despite the inconvenience of descending 25 large steps to reach the prayer hall, the mosque comfortably accommodates 100 people and serves the local community well.

Now, let's address two important issues that require thoughtful consideration. While there are other possibilities, we will focus on the two most significant ones. It is important to note that no answer can be deemed final, but each possibility holds some merit. Firstly, there is a chance that the Neevin Masjid was constructed in the basement of a destroyed Hindu or Jain temple. Given that Lahore had a sizable Jain population during Mahmud's invasion, this scenario cannot be dismissed. Mahmud razed even the Zarathustran "Sun Temple" at Chuna Mandi, which is now the site of the waterworks, along with other structures, including temples. The presence of a temple's traditional basement beneath the mosque seems plausible, although the depth of 25 feet might be a bit excessive for this possibility. Nonetheless, it holds some substance, and further exploration is necessary.

A few years ago, while working as a journalist covering the activities of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture's efforts to preserve the Shahi Hammam inside Delhi Gate, I observed that the archaeologists were surprised to find that the building's foundations extended deeper both outside and inside. The actual structure's base stood 12 feet below the street level, which explains why the shops surrounding it are situated at a lower level. This discovery raised the possibility that the entire walled city was initially at a lower elevation than the present level.

To explore this idea, I consulted a renowned archaeological expert at Cambridge University who recently gave a lecture on his work in the Bannu Valley. He presented a list of possibilities, suggesting that as old Lahore was encircled by the meandering River Ravi, slush drying and accumulating over time could have increased the surface height. He cited examples from Harappa and his work in Bannu to support this theory. Over 600 years, this scenario is indeed feasible.

However, I raised the point that nearly 150 years ago, the river shifted its course about a mile away. To my surprise, the learned professor replied, "Exactly! This would have left a mound of increased height compared to the outer surface." This explanation resonated with me. Over 600 years and countless flood events, it is reasonable to assume that the outer height of the city could have risen by 25 feet. It is worth noting that the Shahi Hammam, in just 385 years, has an outer street level that is 12 feet below the original level. Traditional water-related structures were typically built at slightly elevated positions, further supporting the plausibility of Neevin Masjid's 25-foot depth over nearly 600 years.

In my opinion, the initial thesis proposed by the esteemed scholar from Lahore Museum did not consider the experience of the Shahi Hammam, as it occurred before his time. His explanation aligned with the prevailing wisdom at the time, but there is much to be learned from archaeological excavations within the walled city. Unfortunately, our tourism experts often prioritize glitz and glamour over what lies beneath our feet. Even our soil holds valuable lessons.

ʙᴇɢᴀᴍ ꜱʜᴀʜɪ ᴍᴏꜱQᴜᴇ ʙᴇɢᴜᴍᴘᴜʀᴀ, ʟᴀʜᴏʀᴇ

23 April 2015 & 14th August 2022

During the early 18th century, Nawab Zakaria Khan and his family undertook a remarkable construction project encompassing not only the mosque but also surrounding structures such as boundary walls, entrance gates, palaces, and gardens. Today, remnants of these magnificent buildings can still be found in close proximity to the mosque, situated on the eastern side of the University of Engineering and Technology in Lahore. The local community affectionately refers to it as the Begam Shahi Mosque, paying tribute to Nawab Zakariya Khan's mother. In official records, it is known as "the mosque with glazed tile work at Begampura."

The Begampura Mosque stands as a resplendent architectural marvel from the late Mughal period in Lahore. Its allure is immediately apparent, with its captivating bangladar roof and vibrant green glazed tiles adorned with intricate floral motifs. Among the mosques in Lahore, it distinguishes itself with its double aiwan, featuring an open courtyard with porticos. While the passage of time has taken its toll, the surviving original section of the mosque is its prayer chamber, rectangular in shape and measuring 70 feet 8 inches by 41 feet 6 inches. This chamber comprises two long bays, divided by broad arches that create four interconnected compartments, flanked by side rooms and a central chamber. The ceilings of these compartments are adorned with splendid vaulted designs, while the façade of the central chamber boasts a concave and curvilinear shape, accentuated by a central rib. Although the three arched openings on the north and south sides are currently blocked, they were originally passageways leading to the courtyard. Inside the chamber, the Qibla wall proudly showcases five niches. Notably, in a departure from the usual arrangement where the central niche takes precedence, this mosque features larger niches on each side, enhancing its distinctiveness. To the east of the aiwan, a spacious courtyard complements the mosque's grandeur.

The mosque's surface ornamentation is a sight to behold, distinguished by the extensive use of square glazed tiles in a captivating yellow hue. The prayer chamber's façade is adorned with inscriptions crafted from glazed tiles, including the Kalima, the fundamental Islamic declaration of faith, as well as a Quranic verse. These intricate details add to the mosque's aesthetic splendor and provide a visual representation of the devotion and artistry of the Mughal era.

The Begampura Mosque stands as a testament to the rich architectural heritage of Lahore and serves as a cherished reminder of the city's vibrant past. Its graceful design, adorned with exquisite glazed tiles and adorned with floral motifs, beckons visitors to immerse themselves in its beauty and immerse themselves in the legacy of Mughal craftsmanship.

Jamia Masjid Tarro Moran

14th August 2022

The Enchanting Tale of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and Moran Sarkar: A Love Story Defying Social Conventions

 

In the annals of history, the formidable Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab is renowned as a one-eyed warrior and empire builder. However, little is known about his love story with Moran Sarkar, an enchanting dancing girl who captured his heart. This forbidden union between a young king and a Muslim nautch girl defied societal norms, leading to both outrage and admiration. Although often overlooked in historical accounts, Moran Sarkar played a significant role in the life of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, as evidenced by the mosque named Jamia Masjid Tarro Moran which stands as a testament to their enduring love.

The Fascinating Tale of Moran Sarkar:

Moran Sarkar, a Muslim nautch girl believed to be from Kashmir and residing in the village of Makhanpur near Amritsar captivated the young Maharaja Ranjit Singh with her mesmerizing performances. Legend has it that Ranjit Singh first encountered her graceful dance in the royal Baradari of Dhanoa Kalan village and was instantly smitten. He bestowed upon her the title "Moran," meaning "peacock," symbolizing her elegance and allure.

 A Bridge and a Vow of Love:

Another tale associated with Moran Sarkar is linked to a small bridge near the Indo-Pak border in Pul Kanjri village, not far from Amritsar. It is said that as Moran was en route to perform at the Baradari, she lost her anklet or shoe in a canal while crossing it. Filled with fury, she declared that she would not perform until a bridge was constructed over the canal. In a display of unwavering devotion, Maharaja Ranjit Singh promptly built a bridge, which stands to this day and is known as "Pul Moran."

The Unconventional Marriage:

Despite the social uproar it caused, Maharaja Ranjit Singh proposed to Moran Sarkar, willingly accepting the conditions she laid down for their union. One such condition was seeking her father's permission, to which the enamored Ranjit Singh humbly complied. The grand marriage ceremony took place in 1802, commencing with processions from Lahore's Shalimar Bagh. Samad Joo Kashmiri, a renowned noble and wealthy businessman, assumed the role of Moran's father during the festivities, even shouldering all the bride's expenses. The wedding itself is said to have transpired in his haveli in Amritsar.

Moran Sarkar's Role as Queen:

After their marriage, Maharaja Ranjit Singh and Moran Sarkar resided in Lahore, where the Maharaja had a splendid haveli constructed for her in the Papar Mandi area within Shah Alami gate. Historical records testify to Moran's capabilities as a competent administrator, with her own court where she attentively addressed people's grievances. She became a trusted confidante and advisor to the Maharaja, earning the title of "Moran Sarkar" bestowed upon her by the local populace. Additionally, at Moran's request, Maharaja Ranjit Singh commissioned the construction of a mosque near her haveli, known today as Jamia Masjid Tarro Moran (Tarro meaning "revolving" in Persian, a nod to Moran's earlier reputation for her swift spinning movements).

Moran's Enduring Legacy:

Moran Sarkar, affectionately known as Mail Moran in Pakistan, holds a revered place in the hearts of the residents of Papar Mandi, Lahore. She is regarded as a benevolent queen who tirelessly worked for the welfare of the people. Notably, during her time, the Sikh empire's mint introduced a series of coins known

Remains of Nawab Zakariya Khan Mahal in Lahore

14th August 2022

Abd al-Samad Khan, who passed away in 1737, held the significant position of the Mughal Empire's subahdar of Lahore Subah from 1713 to 1726, having been appointed by the Mughal emperor Farrukhsiyar. He hailed from the esteemed Ansari family of Panipat and was succeeded in governing Punjab by his son, Zakariya Khan Bahadur.

Zakariya Khan Bahadur continued and expanded upon his father's harsh policies, particularly towards the Sikh community. During his tenure, a considerable number of Sikhs fell victim to severe persecution, and a tragic event known as the Chhota Ghallughara witnessed the loss of thousands of Sikh lives.

In the course of his time in power, Zakariya Khan constructed a palace, or mahal, for his residence near Begumpura in Lahore. Regrettably, today, this once grand structure exists only as a set of ruins, with merely a few walls standing in a deteriorated state, situated in proximity to the Shahi Mosque of Begumpura. The bricks of this mahal were sold off during the governance of three Sikh Chieftains in Lahore, symbolizing the passing of an era and the transformation of historical legacies.

My Visit to 1100 Megawatt Quaid e Azam Thermal Power Visit

 August 22, 2017

 

Quaid-e-Azam Thermal Power (Private) Limited (QATPL) is a Private Company Limited by Shares incorporated under the aegis of the Companies Ordinance, 1984. The QATPL is owned by the Government of Punjab through Energy Department. The objective of the Company is to establish and maintain 1180 MW Re-Gasified Liquefied Natural Gas (RLNG) based Thermal Power Plants in Punjab