Ali Usman Baig

Tuesday, 6 June 2023

Langh Lake Larkana: The hidden heavon for Migratory birds

22nd February 2020

Langh Lake, situated in Larkana, is a hidden haven for migratory birds. Once a vibrant and flourishing destination for these majestic creatures, it now remains obscured and overlooked. Langh Lake, once a vibrant emblem of its illustrious history and a sanctuary for nearly 20,000 migratory birds voyaging from Siberia to India, now stands as a chilling testament to the gross negligence of authorities.

Despite being under the purview of provincial departments, Langh Lake has suffered from neglect, allowing unchecked growth of wild bushes and vegetation to dominate the landscape. These encroachments have even covered the signboard bearing the lake's name, rendering it invisible along the main highway.

Spanning an expansive 98 acres, Langh Lake is a lesser-known gem among the wetlands of Sindh. Tucked approximately 12 kilometers south of Qambar, it boasts a wildlife sanctuary established in 1972 and re-notified in 1982.

At the heart of Langh Lake lies its true allure—the plethora of migratory birds that grace its shores during their journey from Siberia to India. Serving as a vital stopover point, the lake provides respite and sustenance to these winged travelers, with a significant number choosing to extend their stay until the end of February. Furthermore, Langh Lake serves as a waypoint for birds continuing their migration to Badin and beyond.

Despite its faded state, Langh Lake's significance as a sanctuary for migratory birds cannot be understated, making it a true hidden heaven for these awe-inspiring creatures.

Monday, 5 June 2023

A detailed note on the Life of Shaikh Muhammad Ismail, a Renowned 16th Century Religious Preacher, also referred to as Mian Wadda

The grave of Shaikh Muhammad Ismail, also known as Mian Wadda, is nestled one mile south of the exquisite Shalimar Gardens. During the reign of Akbar, in the year 1008 A.H. (1599 A.D.), Shaikh Muhammad Ismail constructed an adjoining school, known as Madrassa, with the primary aim of imparting Quranic education. The Madrassa boasted numerous cells to accommodate faqirs (Sufi ascetics) and a splendid mosque.

Shaikh Muhammad Ismail was born in the year 995 A.H. (1586 A.D.) as the son of Fatehulla, grandson of Abdullah, and great-grandson of Sarfaraz Khan. He became a devoted disciple of Makhdum Abdul Karim, a revered Muslim saint from Langar Makhdum on the banks of the Chenab River. With time, Shaikh Muhammad Ismail acquired immense knowledge and wisdom, establishing his Madrasa in the Mohalla Telpura, situated in the suburbs of Lahore. This esteemed institution provided comprehensive education in theology, jurisprudence, Hadis (sayings of the Prophet Muhammad), and Tafsir (commentary on the Quran). Thousands of individuals benefited from the teachings of this renowned scholar and moralist, who gained widespread recognition far and wide.

Shaikh Muhammad Ismail passed away in the year 1095 A.H. (1683 A.D.), during the reign of Aurangzeb, having lived for a century. In accordance with his wishes, no dome was erected over his grave. To ensure the sustenance of his institution, Aurangzeb generously granted a vast tract of land.

In addition to his remarkable legacy, it is worth noting that Muhammad Ismail, hailing from the village of Tarkranm in Potohar, held the esteemed title of hafiz-e-Quran (someone who has memorized the entire Quran). His father, Fateh Ullah, descended from a line of agriculturists and rests in peace in the village of Jabba on the Chenab River. Mian Wadda's family relocated to Langay, where he commenced his educational journey under the tutelage of the revered Muslim saint, Makhdum Abdul Karim.

After serving under Makhdum's guidance, Muhammad Ismail embarked on his Quranic studies in Langay and subsequently moved to Lahore. In Lahore, he found himself at Tailipura mosque, which had relatively low attendance, yet his spirit remained restless. Upon receiving counsel from a devout individual, he embarked on a forty-day retreat, known as chilla-nashini, at the mausoleum of Data Ganj Bakhsh—a revered saint. The impact of this spiritual journey was profound, as the mosque in Tailipura became so inundated with students that it necessitated a relocation to another mosque west of the Daras area.

Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's final resting place is his grand mausoleum, situated on Shalamar Link Road in Lahore, Pakistan. This sacred site serves as a testament to his unwavering commitment to the Quran, his extensive contributions to education, and his enduring influence on knowledge and spirituality.

Sunday, 4 June 2023

Unveiling: the Mysterious Quarter of "Wada Mian Dars Graveyard" - The Haunted Kothris

Shaikh Muhammad Ismail, born in the year 995 A.H. (1586 A.D.), held an illustrious lineage as the son of Fethullah, the grandson of Abdullah, and the great-grandson of Sarfaraz Khan. His life took a transformative turn when he became a devoted disciple of Makhdum Abdul Karim, a highly revered Muslim saint hailing from Langar Makhdum, situated along the banks of the Chenab River. Over time, Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's thirst for knowledge led him to accumulate immense wisdom, ultimately leading him to establish his prestigious Madrasa in the Mohalla Telpura, located in the suburbs of Lahore.

This esteemed institution under Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's guidance provided comprehensive education in various fields, including theology, jurisprudence, Hadis (the sayings of the Prophet Muhammad), and Tafsir (commentary on the Quran). The Madrasa became a beacon of knowledge, attracting thousands of individuals who eagerly sought to benefit from the teachings of this renowned scholar and moralist. Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's influence spread far and wide, garnering him widespread recognition and respect.

In the year 1095 A.H. (1683 A.D.), during the reign of Aurangzeb, Shaikh Muhammad Ismail passed away after living for a remarkable century. As per his wishes, no dome was erected over his grave, reflecting his humility and simplicity. Aurangzeb, acknowledging the importance of preserving Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's legacy, generously granted a vast tract of land to ensure the continued sustenance of his esteemed institution.

During a visit to Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's grave last year, I came across an intriguing story that adds an air of mystery to the surrounding area. It is said that after his passing, burials began to take place around his grave, eventually transforming the vicinity into a graveyard known as "Wada Mian Dars graveyard." In this graveyard stands a quarter constructed with small Mughal-era bricks. Curiously, this building has been abandoned, and according to my host, a resident of the area, it was known as the "Jina wali Kothari" or the "Residence of Jins." The folklore suggests that the jinns (supernatural beings) were also students of Mian Saheb (a respectful title for Shaikh Muhammad Ismail). Behind this quarter, there is a fortification wall constructed using the same Mughal-era bricks, adding further intrigue to the setting. While the veracity of the story remains uncertain, the abandoned quarters continue to stand, evoking an aura of mystery that dissuades anyone from venturing inside, even during daylight hours.

A 16th Century Shrine of "Khaki Shah" in Harbanspura area of Lahore

December 06, 2014

In Lahore, there is a shrine situated in the Sahfi colony area of Harbanspura. This shrine dates back to the 16th century, and it is devoted to Saint "Khaki Shah," who holds great significance for the local community. Every year, from the 26th to the 28th of the Punjabi month called "Har," a lively three-day festival takes place at this shrine, attracting many devotees and visitors.

In 2014, I had the privilege of visiting this historical site accompanied by my friend Kashif Ghurki, who happened to be a native of the area. While not much information is available about Saint Khaki Shah's life, it is known that he passed away in 1561 AD, during the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar. The saint had chosen a serene location on the outskirts of the city to engage in his religious and spiritual practices, known as "Chilla." During a Chilla, one undergoes seclusion and isolation, dedicating oneself to prayer, meditation, and introspection.

Over time, the fame of Saint Khaki Shah spread, eventually reaching the ears of the Mughal emperor Akbar. Impressed by the saint's devotion and influence, Akbar granted him a parcel of land. The construction of the shrine itself is relatively new, but remnants of the past can still be found in the small residential quarters adjacent to the tomb. These structures utilize old, small-sized bricks from the Mughal era, providing a glimpse into the historical significance of the site.

However, in recent years, my friend Kashif informed me that a dispute has arisen concerning the land on which the shrine stands. The Press Club Society claims ownership of the land, leading to a legal battle between the parties involved. It is unfortunate to witness such a dispute over a place that holds great spiritual and cultural value to the community.

Lahore, known as the "City of Saints," is dotted with shrines in every locality, serving as a testament to the spread of Islam throughout the land. Each shrine represents a unique connection to the past, offering a glimpse into the rich heritage and religious traditions that have shaped the city's identity.

Saturday, 3 June 2023

Lal Haveli, also known as Mai Daru de Haveli, located within the walled city.

September 18, 2013

(Based on Majid Sheikh's article on 'Mai Daru de Haveli' and its owner's mystery.)

2013

In 2013, during a photo walk, I captured a photograph of the exterior of Lal Haveli, which is also known as "Mai Daru de Haveli." It is a captivating old building constructed by Maharajah Ranbir Singh, the son of Maharajah Gulab Singh from the Dogra Jamwal Rajput clan. The haveli served as the residence of Mai Daru, a courtesan associated with Maharajah Partap Singh. It is located in Lohari Gate and was the preferred place for the Maharajah to stay when he visited Lahore.

The haveli, made of red bricks and featuring beautiful wooden 'jharokhas,' had a prime location in Lohari and Bhati Gate bazaars, making it highly sought after during the Sikh era due to its proximity to the bustling trade at Chowk Chakla.

Unfortunately, during the partition in 1947, many historic buildings were destroyed by migrating Muslim traders. This destructive trend continued as influential traders, affiliated with different political parties, took advantage of property transfers.

After the partition, numerous traders from across the border settled in Lahore and quickly occupied vacant shops and buildings in the northern areas, leading to the deterioration of the southwest areas, including the housing in Lohari Bazaar.

As a result, the ownership of Lal Haveli became unclear, especially after it endured attacks during the 1947 riots and the burning of the nearby Shahalami area. Despite facing these challenges, Lal Haveli remained standing, but neglect now poses the greatest threat as the building is falling apart. Urgent action is needed to preserve this historical site.

The ground floor of the haveli, which used to face the bazaar, has been converted into shops with crude concrete columns and slabs protecting iron shutters. The once-beautiful facade of the haveli has been damaged, and the shops are divided by rough brick walls.

Inside the building, the original layout with a central courtyard still exists. However, the balconies are empty, contributing to a melancholic atmosphere amidst the decay. Despite this, the stories associated with the haveli bring some joy.

Understanding the significance of Lal Haveli requires knowledge of Maharajah Partap Singh, the third Dogra ruler of Jammu and Kashmir. He ruled from 1885 to 1925 and would visit Lal Haveli twice a year for budget discussions. Maharajah Partap Singh was highly respected and established commendable healthcare and education institutions. Mai Daru's association with such an enlightened ruler adds to her importance.

Mai Daru, known for her poetry, played a significant role in the haveli's history. Classical music sessions were held on the rooftop when the Maharajah visited on weekends. Exploring the building reveals how the top floor transforms into an open courtyard, providing a peaceful escape from the busy bazaar.

It is crucial to unravel the mystery surrounding the ownership of Mai Daru's haveli and preserve it for public use. This effort would benefit the people and safeguard our cultural heritage. Despite the challenges, it is important to protect our past as it often lays the foundation for our dreams.

2023