Ali Usman Baig

Tuesday, 27 June 2023

Discovering the Mysteries of Pir Chinasi and Pir Hasimar in Pakistan-Controlled Kashmir

June 03, 2012

In the captivating landscape of Pakistan-controlled Kashmir, standing amidst the towering Himalayan Mountain range, lie two prominent peaks: Pir Chinasi and Pir Hasimar. Crowned with Muslim shrines, these mountains have become symbols of spiritual significance. However, the true history of the saints interred at these locations remains elusive.

The Influence of Tibet:

Centuries ago, before Islam held sway in the region, these mountains attracted Tibetan monks seeking solitude and spiritual contemplation. It is believed that the names "Hasimar" and "Chinasi" have their roots in the Tibetan language. The presence of Buddhist monasteries on these peaks during that era is plausible. As time passed, subsequent generations of Muslims considered these sites sacred and constructed shrines atop them, thus blending the spiritual traditions of Buddhism and Islam.

The Tale of Pir Chinasi:

One intriguing story associated with Pir Chinasi originates from a local shepherd. Long before the shrine was built, he frequented the peak and one day felt a mysterious presence following him, an unseen creature lurking in the shadows. This encounter left him bewildered and compelled him to construct a shrine at the peak. The shrine came to be known as Pir Chinasi, named after Chinasi Peak. This enigmatic tale raises questions for those seeking the precise historical origins of names behind these peaks.

Exploring Pir Hasimar:

Situated at an elevation of 3,179 meters above sea level, Pir Hasimar Peak awaits intrepid adventurers. A moderate-level one-day trek spanning 12.5 kilometers offers stunning vistas and unforgettable experiences. Setting off from Pir Chinasi, the trail leads you to Pir Hasimar, In this trek, you can witness the breathtaking panoramas of the Kashmir Valley. From there, you have the option to descend towards Gari Dupatta or retrace your steps along the same path. Moreover, this trek can serve as a gateway to further exploration, guiding you toward Kafir Khan in the Leepa Valley. We did that trekking in the year 2012.

The historical origins of both these stories remain shrouded in mystery, leaving us to ponder the tales that have been passed down through generations. As you embark on the trek to Pir Hassimar, you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views of the Kashmir Valley, capturing the essence of this enchanting region.

Sunday, 25 June 2023

The Five tributaries of River Ravi

The River Ravi, known for its historical and present significance, is enriched by several important tributaries. These tributaries, namely Ujh, Bein, Basantar, Deg, and Hudiara, have shaped the landscape and contributed to the vitality of the river throughout history. Let's explore each of these tributaries in detail to understand their characteristics and contributions.

1. Baein:

Originating in Jammu to the north of Shakargarh, the Baein is a substantial sandy torrent that traverses through the heart of the Tahsil Falls before merging with the River Ravi. Formed by the combined waters of the Tarnah and Bhabban, it receives additional inflow from the Hodla at Khanna and the Dehr at Saroch. The riverbed of the Baein expands to over a mile wide in certain sections, predominantly comprising deep sand. During colder seasons, only a shallow narrow stream of water flows through it. However, owing to its rapid slope, the Baein is prone to sudden and violent floods during the rainy season, resulting in frequent loss of life.

2. Basantar Nallah:

Adjacent to Deg Nallah on the left, Basantar Nallah is another significant tributary of the River Ravi. Its catchment area shares proximity with Deg Nallah. The mainstream of Basantar Nallah possesses a steeper slope and eventually joins the River Ravi approximately seven kilometers south of Narowal City, about 95 kilometers upstream from the outfall of Deg Nallah into the River Ravi. The contribution of Basantar Nallah adds to the volume and flow of the River Ravi.

3. Ujh River:

The Ujh River holds tremendous importance as the second most significant river in the Kathua district. It originates from the Domal Structure of Seojdar in the middle Himalayan ranges. Stretching 65 kilometers within the district, with an average width of about 1.2 kilometers, the Ujh River serves as a lifeline for the region. The main tributaries of the Ujh River are the Naaz and Bhinni Nullahs of Billawar. To harness its water resources, the Ujh Barrage has been constructed at Village Jasrota. The Ujh River caters to various needs, including drinking water supply. It also feeds several small canals and Khuls, enabling irrigation of agricultural lands in the district. Moreover, the river facilitates the transportation of timber from the hills to the plains in large quantities. Additionally, it provides essential construction materials such as sand and stones. Originating from the Ramkot Fort side of Jammu, the Ujh River flows through Kathua before entering Pakistan.

4. Deg Nallah:

Originating in Jammu and Kashmir, Deg Nallah comprises two branches known as the Devak River and the Basantar River. These branches merge to form Deg Nallah near the Lehri check post, approximately 14 kilometers northeast of Zafarwal town. From there, it follows a southwesterly course, crossing significant landmarks such as Zafarwal-Chawinda Road, Pasrur-Narowal Road, and the railway line near Qila Soba Singh. It further crosses the Marala-Ravi (M.R.) link canal, the Bambanwala-Ravi-Bedian-Dialpur (BRBD) Canal, and the Muridke Distributary. As it progresses downstream, it crosses the Pakistan Railways Lahore-Peshawar main line, the G.T. Road, the Motorway M-2, the Lahore-Faisalabad section of Pakistan Railways, and the Lahore-Sheikhupura road. Deg Nallah terminates at the Deg Diversion channel, where it joins the River Ravi, 18 kilometers downstream from Shahdara town. Notably, Deg Nullah holds prominence among the tributaries due to its remarkable length of 256 kilometers and a catchment area encompassing 730 square kilometers.

5. Hudiara Drain:

The Hudiara Drain stretches over a length of 98.6 kilometers, with 44.2 kilometers located in India and 54.4 kilometers in Pakistani territory. Although technically referred to as a drain, it plays a significant role as a tributary of the River Ravi, contributing to its overall flow and water resources.

The tributaries of the River Ravi collectively enhance the river's vitality and have shaped the region's landscape throughout history.

Friday, 23 June 2023

The Ancient Mughal Era Bahmanwali/Chak 46 bridge

Date of visit: 17th June 2018

The Ancient Mughal Era Bahmanwali/Chak 46 bridge

Saifur Rehman Dar, one of the most renowned archaeologists from Pakistan, has left an indelible mark on the field of archaeology with his significant contributions. In his seminal article, "Caravanserais along the Grand Trunk in Pakistan," Dar sheds light on the ancient origins of the Grand Trunk Road, a historic highway that stretches across several Indian states, from Calcutta to Peshawar, with a history dating back approximately 2500 years.

In his survey conducted from 1987 to 1989, Sir Saifur Rehman Dar meticulously documented the remnants that still existed along the Grand Trunk Road. In his survey, he highlighted:-

“The Sheranwala Gate replaced the Khizri Gate that once stood in the Walled City of Lahore. The Mughal King Akbar built the Khizri Gate as one of the thirteen gates along with a fortified wall. Today, only six gates remain, and the Sheranwala Gate, also known as the Khizri Gate, the gate was located near the flowing Ravi River, hence the name Khizri. Boats used to dock near the gate, allowing people from Lahore to travel across the Ravi River to the beautiful Shahdara area. At Shahdara, the best preserved Sarais in all of Pakistan. Originally built during the Suri period as its mosque still testifies, the present edifice with its three magnificent gateways dates back to Shah Jahan's period. As it was sandwiched between two great monuments, the Mausoleum-Garden of Jahangir and the Mausoleum-Garden of Asif Khan. Continuing the journey, the road passes through Rana Town, where two Baolis once added to the scenic beauty until they were unfortunately filled in later. The route then leads to Bahmanwali/Chak 46, where a crossing over the Nullah Deg is marked by an ancient bridge and the remnants of a Sarai.”

Throughout history, the significance of Deg Nullah has endured and continues to hold importance even today. The origins of the Degh River can be traced back to the hills near Jammu, and its course takes it past Sialkot until it joins the Ravi River south of Lahore. The major tributaries of river Ravi: Ujh, Bein, Basantar, Deg, and Hudiara. Among these tributaries, Deg Nullah stands out as the largest, stretching across an impressive length of 256 km and encompassing a catchment area of 730 km².

Of notable historical significance, the ancient bridge at Bahmanwali/Chak 46 is believed to have been constructed during Emperor Jahangir's reign, making it approximately 400 years old. Alongside the Bahmanwali/Chak 46 bridge, there are three additional Mughal-era bridges constructed on the Degh River. These bridges can be found at Kot Pindi Das, situated 13 kilometers south, and at Javed Town in Choti Degh. Furthermore, another notable structure is a two-story Mughal-era bridge located near Tapiala Dost Muhammad.

The archaic Mughal-era bridge, spanning an impressive 250 feet, boasts three stately arches and is fortified by embankments at both ends. With an approximate width of 18 feet, the bridge is adorned with protective walls, serving as a testament to the architectural finesse of the time. Shah Jahan, a prominent Mughal emperor, expanded the boundaries of the empire to the western regions, stretching beyond the Khyber Pass towards Ghazna and Kandahar. To ensure the efficient transportation of supplies and swift communication for military forces, the Grand Trunk Road played a pivotal role in the bygone era. Situated on this renowned thoroughfare were the Mughal-era bridges that spanned the mighty Degh Nullah, standing as prominent landmarks along the route.

In 2018, following a visit to the site of Sarai Pukhta, as mentioned in the Dar survey, our journey led us to a mound located at the precipice of the Degh Nullah, specifically at Chak 46.

In ancient times, if we move towards the northwest of the Ravi River, there was another river called Bagh Bacha. It was a tributary of the Ravi River, and it might have originated from Degh. The area between these two rivers is quite interesting because it is filled with many old mounds including the impressive Bagh Bacha metropolises.

Moving to the northwest of the river Ravi, in the ancient past, the Bagh Bacha River, a tributary of the Ravi which could also originate from Degh, used to flow. Notably, the land situated between these two converging rivers is adorned with numerous ancient mounds, including the remarkable Bagh Bacha metropolises.

Continuing the journey along the Grand Trunk Road, one encounters more captivating sites. Sarai Shaikhan, also known as Pukhta Sarai, features a splendid, paneled gateway and an ancient well in ruinous condition. The road leads further to Tapiala Dost Muhammad, passing through Kot Bashir, where remnants of a Chhaoni site and a baoli whisper stories of the past. Dera Kharaba, with its own baoli, adds to the allure of the journey. Tapiala Dost Muhammad, with its commanding mausoleum, sets the stage for exploration towards Pull Shah Daula. An ancient bridge over the Nallah Deg, along with the striking monuments at Baba Jamna, bears witness to the historical significance of this route.

Through the meticulous research and documentation carried out by Saifur Rehman Dar, the rich historical heritage of the Grand Trunk Road and its surrounding areas is brought to light, offering valuable insights into the ancient civilizations and their remarkable architectural achievements.