Tomri Temple, Baddoki Gosaian, Gujranwala

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23-07-2017 (Date of Visit)

Baddoki Gosaian stands proudly as one of the most historically significant villages in the Gujranwala District. Once it was home to Hindus (largely from the Gosain community), Sikhs, and Muslims before the Partition of India in 1947.

During this pivotal time, numerous Hindu and Sikh families migrated from Baddoki Gosaian to India, while Muslim families from India made the village their new home. Even today, migrant families continue to occupy the homes and lands left behind by those who emigrated.

One of the village's prized possessions is its distinction as the birthplace of Sidh Baba Sai Das, the revered founder of the Gosain/Goswami community, who lived during the same era as Baba Nanak Dev. In the heart of the village, there used to be a significant square-shaped tank, featuring a temple at its center, surrounded by a tree of berries.

It is said that the temple, known as Tomri Sahib, is a Shiv Mandir constructed not by the Hindu community, but by Sikh devotees. This grand complex, comprising the main temple and various adjacent rooms, including two ponds, is a place of spiritual sanctity. Its entrance is adorned with ten stairs encircling one of the ponds, which still stands today. Numerous structures, such as Dharamshala, living quarters, Sikh Samadhi, and other notable features, remain intact within the temple premises.

Tomri Sahib Mandir stands apart from other temples in the area due to its unique characteristics. It lacks primary historical documentation regarding its builder, yet the name "Sahib" predominantly finds usage in Sikh nomenclature, often associated with revered saints, Gurus, or Baba ji figures. Notably distinct, this Mandir boasts a large pond unlike any other in the vicinity, featuring a beautiful walkway constructed with eight arches, all of which have endured the test of time.

Constructed predominantly with small bricks and adorned with delicate touches of white marble, the Mandir holds an enigmatic charm, drawing visitors with its historical allure and spiritual ambiance. Adjacent to the Mandir stands a Banyan tree, echoing this revered site's tranquility and sacredness.

Baddoki Gosaian stands as a testament to coexistence and cultural amalgamation, preserving its rich heritage through the remnants of structures that whisper tales of the past. Tomri Sahib Mandir, in particular, stands as an architectural marvel, a testament to faith and history, embodying the essence of both Sikh devotion and the village's diverse past.

The Hidden tomb of Mohammad Qasim Khan Lahore

#SyedBadruddinGilani  #GumbuzKushtiWala

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

17-12-2023 (Date of Visit)

The Governor House Lahore, is a historic edifice shrouded in tales of dynasties and transitions that have shaped its identity over centuries. At the heart of this imposing structure lies a remarkable piece of history—a hidden tomb from the Mughal epoch of the 16th century, reshaped into a dining hall, stands as a  testament to the magnificence of Mughal architectural prowess.

Dating back to the 16th Century, the upper story of what is now the dining room in the Governor House was initially the final resting place of Mohammad Qasim Khan, a revered maternal cousin of the illustrious Mughal Emperor Akbar. The tomb's sanctity is underscored by the fact that Khan's grave still lies beneath the very room that once echoed with Mughal legacies and regal splendor.

However, the tomb's narrative has been steeped in intriguing controversies, sparking debates among eminent historians. Syed Muhammad Latif and Kannahiya Lal, two renowned scholars, have presented conflicting accounts regarding the tomb's occupants. Lal insists that Saint Syed Badruddin Gilani was interred here, while Latif credits Qasim Khan for the honor.

The historical backdrop surrounding the tomb extends beyond its spiritual significance. Once an adjacent ground used for wrestling matches, known as 'akhaara,' the tomb was also referred to as Gumbuz Kushti Wala—a testimony to its multifaceted past.

During the reign of Ranjit Singh, the tomb underwent a transformative phase when Jamadar Khushal Singh erected a residence around it. Eventually, this property transitioned into the possession of Deputy Commissioner Major MacGregor, who, in 1859, converted it into the distinguished Government House during the lieutenant governorship of Robert Montgomery.

The evolution of the structure continued, retaining the original tomb on the ground floor. John Lockwood Kiping, along with his protege Bhai Ram Singh, curated the interior and furnishings of this revered site. Today, the tomb of Muhammad Qasim Khan remains within the precincts of the Governor House, Lahore, echoing the majesty of its Mughal origins.

The architectural magnificence of the tomb is evident in its design—four doorways enclose the two-story structure, with a stairway adorning its northern facade. Delicate craftsmanship adorns the interior with four columns rising majestically, creating a split-level appearance. The exterior boasts twelve arched niches in bricks, while the interior features four doors adorned with eight mehrabi dar around.

The dome, a masterpiece in itself, showcases four skylights illuminating the sanctum. Following the province's annexation, the British acquired this hallowed structure and the surrounding land for a meager sum of Rs. 2,500. Remarkably, while maintaining the mausoleum's integrity, additional rooms were constructed atop the square platform encircling the tomb, elevating its stature and necessitating a grand, sweeping staircase as the main entry point.

Since the inception of Pakistan, the Governor of Punjab/West Pakistan has inhabited and conducted official duties within this hallowed building, signifying its enduring significance in the region's administrative landscape.

The Governor House stands not just as a symbol of governance but as a custodian of heritage, preserving tales of nobility, transitions, and architectural finesse that resonate through the annals of time.

Echoes of St. Mary Magdalene: Tales from Lahore's Past and Colonial Dynamics

St. Mary Magdalene Church is one of Lahore's largest and oldest worship centers. Its construction in 1856 AD spanned six years and cost Rs. 90,000 at that time. 

A visitor named Kim Whysall-Hammond, also known as The Cheeseseller Wife, commented on October 3, 2020, on my article on St. Mary Magdalene Church. She shared the discovery of a prize awarded to her mother in 1934 for regular attendance at St. Mary Magdalene Church when her mother was merely 6 years old. Her father served in the RAF.

Expressing gratitude for the information and the beautiful photos of the church, Kim shared that her mother often recounted her childhood in Lahore. She mentioned her mother's expulsion from school due to befriending individuals from the local community. During my childhood, I also attended school there for twelve years.

This narrative also illustrates the Colonial British's behavior towards locals, depicting a segregationist stance where interaction with the local population was discouraged.

Exploring the Historical and Architectural Marvels of St. Andrew's Church Empress Road Lahore

Located gracefully along Empress Road in Lahore, St. Andrew's Church stands as a remarkable blend of architectural finesse and historical significance. It encapsulates not only a rich past but also showcases exquisite craftsmanship.

More than just an architectural marvel, St. Andrew's Church holds deep significance in catering to the spiritual needs of the Christian community, particularly the railway workers seeking solace and unity in their faith. Its establishment in 1860, coinciding with the construction of the Lahore Railway Station, marked not only progress in transportation but also symbolized regional development.

Commencing within a modest room in 1872, the church steadily expanded to its present grandeur, culminating in its completion in 1910—an enduring testament to exceptional architectural finesse and unwavering dedication.

The church's architectural splendor is evident in its intricate details, adorned with elaborate designs reflecting the craftsmanship of Lahore's Colonial era. Its soaring spires represent faith and hope, while the commanding facade bears witness to time's passage and the resilience of this revered structure.

Beyond its physical presence, St. Andrew's Church embodies interconnected narratives of faith, history, and architecture. Its enduring presence on Lahore's skyline serves as a symbol of continuity and reverence for all touched by its profound legacy.

Architecturally, the church epitomizes the Neo-Gothic style, also known as Gothic revival—a prevailing style introduced by the British in Lahore during the mid-1800s. Recognizable for its lofty elevations, domes, arches, and columns, this style significantly influenced numerous colonial-era buildings in Lahore, including the nearby Railway Headquarters.

The crucial role played by British General Officer Sir James Abbott in the church's construction is commemorated in Lahore through Abbott Road and Abbottabad city in Pakistan, named in his honor. Differing from traditional Gothic Church construction, this church's design complements the adjacent Railway Headquarters, featuring similar arches and sloping elements. Bricks were predominantly used in its construction, a hallmark present in most colonial-era buildings in Lahore, such as the Town Hall and Aitchison College.

With nearly 150 years of existence, renovations occurred a century later, incorporating galvanized roofing for weather resilience, a transition from DC to AC electrical wiring, and flooring replacements. The bell tower, distinguished by its dome instead of a conical roof, proudly displays a St. Andrew cross at the front. The dome, resting on ribbed columns and arched windows of varying heights, stands out as a captivating feature.

Another notable aspect is the use of red stone in the steps, reminiscent of the Redstone seen in Lahore's Badshahi Mosque, echoing elements of Mughal architecture. The interior design mirrors the Neo-Gothic style, integrating domes and Ionic columns. Stained glass artifacts, depicting biblical stories through painted glass, serve as a unique educational element referred to as the "poor man's Bible." Certain entrances feature Roman and Greek-style glass designs, further enriching the church's architectural diversity.

St. Andrew's Church stands not only as a testament to architectural brilliance but also as a living embodiment of the merging of cultures, histories, and faiths—a revered icon in Lahore's vibrant heritage.

Additionally, within the precincts of St. Andrew's Church in Lahore lies the mausoleum of Mullah Muhammad Saleh Kamboh. The tomb had a varied history; during the Sikh rule, its dome was used to store gunpowder. Later, when the British took over, it was converted into a residential quarter. Stories suggest that when the church was built in 1872, a priest moved in. Some accounts indicate that the British relocated the coffins of Muhammad Saleh and Inayat Ul Lah to the shrine of Hazrat Ali Rangrez before repurposing the area as a residence.