The forgotten Haveli of Kharak Singh in Lahori Gate

 (All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, are author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

In the era preceding Sikh rule in Lahore, the red-light area confines its place within the Lahori Gate. This area thrived as a cultural hub, hosting renowned dancers who resided in houses distinguished by their prominent wooden balconies. Among these, Poori Bai and Mai Daru Haveli stood as elegant architectures within Lahori Gates, both owned by accomplished dancing girls, and remnants of their presence still exist in some form today.

Born on February 9, 1801, Kharak Singh, the eldest son of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, grew up steeped in the Sikh martial tradition, actively participating in various military expeditions. Following his father's demise in June 1839, Kharak Singh ascended the throne.

During Ranjit Singh's reign, several structures, including the Kharak Singh mansion, were added to the Lahore Fort. This mansion still stands as a testament to the historical legacy of the fort.

The 1882 publication of 'Tareekh e Lahore' by Kanhya Laal shed light on another magnificent Haveli in Lahori Gate owned by Kharak Singh. The Haveli was known for hosting dance and drinking parties, with its sheer size accommodating even Maharaja's elephants and horses. After the British takeover of Lahore in 1857, the Haveli fell into disrepair, its bricks pilfered by locals. British administrators eventually sold the land to Lala Nihal Chand, a contractor for the colonial government. He transformed the site into an elegant Hindu temple with a curvilinear spire adorned with intricately designed Rathas.

Following the partition of British India, the temple also faced a dilapidated fate. Interestingly, Kharak Singh's only son, Maharaja Nau Nihal Singh, had a magnificent Haveli located just 350 meters away. Fortunately, this Haveli was repurposed into Victoria School and stands as one of the elegant architectures in the walled city of Lahore to this day.

Unhappy with the influence wielded by Chet Singh Bajwa, who served as Kharak Singh's tutor, Raja Dhian Singh Dogra spread rumors concerning a covert scheme to surrender Punjab to the British, disband the Sikh army, and divert a significant portion of state revenue. These baseless allegations led to the estrangement of the court and Nau Nihal Singh from Kharak Singh. Chet Singh met his demise in the Maharaja's residence on October 9, 1839, followed by the poisoning of Kharak Singh. Within six months, he found himself confined to his sickbed, eventually succumbing to the poison on November 5, 1840. 

On October 8, 1839, Dhian Singh instigated the dethronement of Kharak Singh, clearing the way for Nau Nihal Singh to assume the role of de facto ruler.

A flock of Green-Winged Teal flying over Lahore - Birding Report, January 13, 2024

Birding Report - Lahore, Pakistan - January 13, 2024

Species Observed: Green-winged Teal

Location: Near Sialkot Motorway Interchange along the Ring Road, Lahore

Weather Conditions: Foggy skies, cold winds

Flock Size: 50 to 70 individuals

Observations:

On the crisp morning of January 13, 2024, a bird-watching trip near the Sialkot Motorway Interchange along the Ring Road in Lahore unfolded into an exhilarating encounter with a substantial flock of Green-winged Teals. The weather conditions, marked by foggy skies and brisk winds, provided an optimal backdrop for observing these graceful waterfowl.

The Green-winged Teal (Anas crecca), a petite dabbling duck celebrated for its vibrant plumage and distinctive markings, is not a common find in the Lahore region. 

The flock, numbering between 50 to 100 individuals, was dispersed across a shallow pond adjacent to the motorway, creating a picturesque scene against the misty surroundings. The chilly winds appeared to have prompted these ducks to congregate, enhancing the beauty of their collective presence.

The males, easily distinguishable by their striking green wing patches and chestnut-colored heads, stood out from the more subtly colored females. Their iridescent markings shimmered in the diffused sunlight, casting a touch of brilliance upon the muted winter landscape.

Engaged in their typical dabbling behavior, the Green-winged Teals were actively foraging for aquatic plants, insects, and small invertebrates. Despite the challenge of limited visibility due to the fog, the air resonated with the soft quacking calls of the teals, contributing to the serene ambiance of the wetland area.

This birding experience not only unveiled the beauty of these teal ducks but also underscored the importance of preserving and cherishing the diverse avian life that frequents the region's wetlands.

In conclusion, the sighting of the Green-winged Teals near the Sialkot Motorway Interchange stood as a highlight for birders in Lahore, emphasizing the significance of safeguarding these critical habitats for migratory waterfowl.

Coots Return to Lahore - Birding Report, January 13, 2024

Birding Report - Lahore, Pakistan - January 13, 2024

Species Observed: Coots (Fulica spp.)

Location: Near Sialkot Motorway Interchange along the Ring Road, Lahore

Weather Conditions: Foggy skies, cold winds

Observations:

A decade ago, you could spot coots all over Lahore during winter, making ponds a lively sight. Sadly, due to hunting and more buildings popping up, these charming birds disappeared from the city.

But in January 2024, near the Sialkot Motorway Interchange along the Ring Road in Lahore, I saw something wonderful. A bunch of coots was hanging out in a pond—a bit like the good old days in Lahore.

Watching these innocent birds, I thought about how much Lahore has changed. The return of coots feels like a small sign of hope, maybe showing that people are starting to care more about keeping a balance between growing the city and saving nature.

 I'm hopeful that folks in Lahore will understand how important these birds are and to live together with nature and take care of the special ecosystems that make our city lively and diverse.

Tracing Roots: A Journey into Lahore's Anglo-Indian History with Rob Cranenburgh

In my article titled "Lahore's Timeless Charm: Unveiling the Enchanting Tale of Victoria Park and its Bygone Anglo-Indian Community," The article delves into the interesting history of Charing Cross and Victoria Park in Lahore, uncovering details about the Anglo-Indian community that lived there before 1947.

(link to my article https://aliusmanbaig.blogspot.com/2023/06/lahores-timeless-charm-unveiling.html)

To my surprise, Rob Cranenburgh, currently residing in the UK, reached out to me, initiating a heartwarming conversation. His grandmother was an Anglo-Indian born in Lahore and baptized at Sacred Heart Cathedral School, adding a personal touch to Lahore's history.

"Hey Ali, I'm good thanks, and you? I found your feed to be very interesting! I’d love to visit Lahore," Rob shared, setting the stage for a delightful exchange.

His simple request held profound meaning: "The next time you are near the cathedral, I’d love it if you could take a picture for me. I will share it with my uncle; he is over 80, and I know he would love to see it." This small request became a bridge connecting our shared interests and heritage.

Rob's grandmother was born in 1918 in Lahore, she was baptized in the Sacred Heart Cathedral, a grand Catholic Cathedral. Rob recalled memories of a time when Lahore had a more significant Anglo-Indian population, a community that dwindled after the Independence of British India in 1947 and subsequent migrations in the 1950s and 60s.

Rob shared more about his family's connection to Lahore, highlighting his grandmother's mother, who ran a cafe in the city. Born in Lucknow, her mixed heritage added an intriguing layer to their family's narrative.

The conversation unfolded further, unveiling the story of Rob's great-grandfather, Charles James White, an Englishman in the British army. Tragically, he passed away when Rob's grandmother was still a child. After his death, Rob's grandmother and mother left Lahore, making a new home in Calcutta, where she eventually met Rob's grandfather.

I inquired about Rob's grandfather, whether he was a local or Anglo-Indian. The answer revealed, "Yes, also Anglo-Indian, but from an old Calcutta Anglo-Indian family dating back to the late 1700s. So my surname is of Dutch origin. My grandfather's ancestor, we believe, came out to India with the Dutch East India Company."

Rob's fascination with history became evident as he shared insights from conversations with older members of the Anglo-Indian community. The stories reflected a contrast in experiences between those in Pakistan, facing discrimination leading to migration post-partition, and those in India, departing more for economic reasons.

In the simplicity of our conversation, a tale of intertwined histories emerged. Rob Cranenburgh's connection to Lahore, though physically distant, speaks to the universal threads linking us to our roots. Through photographs and conversations, we became witnesses to a story spanning generations and continents, a testament to the enduring power of shared history. I later took pictures of Sacred Heart Cathedral School for Rob, and in 2023, he visited Lahore, standing where his grandmother was baptized—a way to show respect and gratitude to his ancestors.

The Last Refuge of Lesser Whistling Ducks in DHA Lahore

In Phase-8 of DHA Society Lahore, close to the buzzing BMW Motorrad center, where the persistent roar of heavy bikers' engines fills the air all day long. In this very area, there once existed a pond, its existence miraculously spared after a disagreement over its purchase price arose between neighboring villages and the DHA authority. This pond stood as one of the last sanctuaries for the breeding of Lesser Whistling Ducks within Lahore city. Witnessing these birds gracefully gliding over the pond each day was a breathtaking spectacle. I've also captured photographs of the pheasant-tailed Jacana, various weavers, and Moorhens in this serene setting.

Situated at the core of DHA, this pond had eluded the attention of hunters until a tragic turn of events. Regrettably, one fateful day, a hunter stumbled upon the flock of Lesser Whistling Ducks here and ruthlessly ended their lives. 

Subsequently, the once-thriving pond gradually dried up, potentially linked to a resolution between the DHA authority and the neighboring villagers.

The pond dried

This sad series of events has marked the end of the last refuge for Lesser Whistling Ducks in Lahore, a habitat that existed until 2021 but exists no more.

The serene pond in Phase-8, DHA Lahore, once home to Lesser Whistling Ducks, faced a tragic demise. Reflecting on DHA's construction over agricultural lands, there's an important realization with better planning, we could have preserved the green spaces, trees, and habitats that were once there. Instead of erecting a concrete jungle, we could have created sanctuaries for the flourishing birdlife amidst the urban sprawl and ensure their survival amid human development.

Use of Numerological Precision in Mughal-Era Islamic Poetry of the Subcontinent

Ilm-e-Jafar, also known as 'Jafr' or 'Jafr-e-Jamia,' is an ancient Islamic method that combines divination and numerology. This mystical practice involves letters, numbers, and symbolic interpretations, in the past providing a way for practitioners to seek guidance, predict events, and explore the esoteric.

My interest in this practice was piqued by an encounter with a poetic verse on a Mughal-era tomb (Sheikh Mohtram) in Lahore from the 17th century. 

"The guide who led people towards salvation, "He whose heart resembled Solomon's and wisdom Asaf's, "Shah Muhtaram, the saintly soul of God, "Transitioned from this life to the assembly of the departed righteous; "As I sought his departure date, "A sound and virtuous mind revealed: "Subtract five from the sentence, saying: "May he enter the highest paradise!"

This stanza appears to eulogize a revered figure, Shah Muhtaram, who is depicted as a guide leading people towards spiritual salvation. The stanza mourns his passing from the earthly realm to the realm of the departed righteous. The stanza speaks of Shah Muhtaram's remarkable qualities, comparing his heart to Solomon's (known for his wisdom and compassion) and his wisdom to Asaf's (a figure known for his insight and knowledge). It refers to him as a saint of God, emphasizing his spiritual significance. When attempting to find the date of his death, the stanza provides a cryptic clue: "Deduct five from the following sentence and say: 'May he enter the high paradise!'" This suggests that the solution to determining the date of Shah Muhtaram's passing involves subtracting the number five from the mentioned sentence, likely resulting in a date or a significant clue. The verse, when translated, revealed a message about revered individuals who had passed away, suggesting a method to determine their date of death. It involved subtracting five from their date of death and praying for their admission into the highest paradise.

The numerical value of the last verse, according to the Abjad system, was 1107. Following the method in the previous verse, subtracting 5 from this value resulted in 1102, which aligned with the Hijri year of death of the Saint buried in the tomb. This practical application of Ilm-e-Jafar served as an intriguing demonstration of its effectiveness.

Ilm-e-Jafar is a structured practice that takes on multiple forms and is not arbitrary. In the past, poets in the sub-continent often included the dates of significant events, births, or deaths within their verses, demonstrating their literary expertise and scholarly status, and celebrating these moments.

In essence, Ilm-e-Jafar is not just a mystical art, but a structured system that combines symbolism, numbers, and interpretations, reflecting the depth of Islamic traditions and scholarship.

Shrimati Janki Devi Jamiat Singh free Maternity Hospital Macloed Road Lahore

Janki Devi Hospital is a maternity care facility on Abbott Road in Garhi Shahu, Lahore, Pakistan. It has been serving the people of Lahore for over 89 years. Dr. Jamiat Singh, an assistant professor at King Edward Medical College, established this hospital in memory of his late wife, who tragically passed away during childbirth in 1935. Dr. Singh's aim was to create a safe place for pregnant women and newborns who faced serious health issues back then. He worked hard to gather donations from generous people and organizations to build a modern hospital with top-notch maternity care services.

Spanning across a large 15-kanal land, Janki Devi Hospital became a source of hope for many families seeking compassionate care. It had advanced medical facilities like private rooms, gynecology wards, a children's ward, a dental unit, an operation theater, a lab, a medical store, and more, all designed to ensure patients' comfort and well-being.

Despite challenges, including the difficulties of partition, the hospital continued its mission. Today, Janki Devi Hospital symbolizes kindness, resilience, and innovation, inspiring future generations.