The Forgotten Fair of Footsteps: The Honorary Shrine of Sakhi Sarwar and Rai Bahadur Seth Ajudha Peeshad’s Dharamshala in Lahore

(I could not have written this article without the guidance and invaluable insights of Dr. Zishan.)

November 2024

Once upon a time, Lahore hosted a unique and vibrant event, often called the Fair of Footsteps. Officially linked to the arrival and meditative practices of Hazrat Sakhi Sarwar in the city, the fair was, in truth, a curious mix of eccentricities and oddities. Originally held near the Baradari of Wazir Khan in Bagh Nakhlah, it was relocated outside Lahori Gate after the establishment of a Sikh cantonment displaced it from its original location.

The relocation transformed the stretch between Lahori Gate and Anarkali Police Station into a bustling hub of frenetic activity. A chaotic mix of people thronged the area, drummers roamed with instruments slung around their necks, singing and celebrating. The crowd was diverse, even controversial, as performers and prostitutes mingled freely with individuals from all walks of life.

At the heart of this lively gathering stood Chauki Sakhi Sarwar, believed to mark the meditation site of Lakh Daata Hazrat Sakhi Sarwar. However, as Nur Ahmad Chishti noted, the chauki was allegedly a fabrication by the “Pherais” to exploit the saint’s legacy for personal gain. Over time, as the fair declined and the Pherais could no longer profit, they sold the property.

The new owners, Sanatan Dharmis, transformed the site into a Dharamshala in memory of their late father. A *Dharamshala* is an Indian religious rest house, with *dharma* meaning "religion" and *shala* meaning "sanctuary." These rest houses are primarily built for pilgrims and often serve as religious endowments. The building, an architectural jewel of its time, bore the following inscription:

Dharamshala

In honor of the esteemed Rai Bahadur Seth Ajudha Peeshad, Honary Magistrate in 1934,

This monument was built by his devoted sons: Seth Ram Rattan, Ram Narayan, and Shadi Lal,

To preserve their father's legacy.

Established on the 5th of November, 1937, in New Anarkali, Lahore.

The Partition of 1947 disrupted the Dharamshala's serene existence. Migrants moved in, partitioning its open courtyard with makeshift walls to create cramped living spaces. Over the years, whispers of the Fair of Lakh Daata’s Footsteps resurfaced, intertwined with the site's forgotten history.

My good friend Dr. Zishan explored the place a few years ago and shared its story. A resident woman claimed to have received a divine sign in her dream, urging the revival of the chauki. Acting on her vision, a modest shrine was built in the loft, draped in a green cloth inscribed with sacred verses. An annual celebration on the 12th of Rabi-ul-Awwal was initiated to honor the saint.

Intrigued, I decided to visit the site in November 2024, wandering through the narrow, bustling streets of Anarkali Bazaar. The building was in an advanced state of decay, as Dr. Zishan had described. Its crumbling walls and faded arches stood as silent witnesses to a forgotten legacy.

Pushing open a creaking wooden door, I stepped into the dimly lit interior. The silence was oppressive, broken only by the faint echo of my footsteps. A narrow staircase led upward, where a sliding gate marked the entrance to the shrine. Beyond the gate lay a small, honorary grave—a symbolic reminder of Sakhi Sarwar’s meditation site. Surprisingly well-kept, the tomb was adorned with mosaic glass, suggesting that someone still cared for the sacred space.

As I stood there, a strange heaviness enveloped me. The air was thick with the weight of forgotten stories, unspoken prayers, and an aura of solemn reverence. The modest shrine, hidden within this dilapidated structure, seemed to radiate an enduring spirit. Walking back through the neglected arches, I couldn’t shake the sense that I had brushed against something profound—a fragment of Lahore’s layered history that lingers quietly, waiting to be remembered.

A forgotten Mughal Era Architecture in Lahore that no longer Exists

2018

( All pictures are taken by me, kindly respect copyrights. Please respect these rights and do not use the images in any vlogs, articles, or other media without permission)

Many are familiar with the graceful Mian Khan Tomb and Baradari, a well-preserved 17th-century structure at Shiwala Chowk in the Singhpura area of Bhogiwal, Lahore. This baradari is the resting place of Nawab Mian Khan, son of Nawab Saadullah Khan, the distinguished Prime Minister of Lahore under Emperor Shah Jahan.

Adjacent to this historic site stands the "Baradari Wali Masjid," also attributed to Nawab Mian Khan. Although its architecture may lack the grandeur of other Mughal-era buildings, it remains a significant historical landmark. Growing up in this area, I watched the mosque transform over time. Its once-beautiful domes and intricate arches—originally crafted with Mughal-era bricks—were gradually obscured by layers of cement plaster due to limited preservation efforts. Fortunately, I managed to capture its original beauty in photographs.

Inside the mosque, a small room to the south serves as the Imam’s residence, though this space is closed to the public. The square structure, with its slightly sunken plinth below the natural soil level, resembles a Mughal tomb. Its walls, reaching 10 to 12 feet in height, rise to meet corner squinches that support an interior dome, while the roof appears flat from the outside. Mughal-style niches, and small recessed alcoves typical of the era, adorn the interior, adding to its elegance and reinforcing its connection to the grand architectural tradition. Sadly, the entire building has been whitewashed, blending it into the surroundings and repurposing it as a mosque for the local community.

One intriguing tale, shared by local elders, tells of an escape tunnel within this Mughal-era room, rumored to have provided a quick escape during times of attack. Though the entrance to this tunnel remains visible, it has been sealed for as long as anyone can remember, leaving its true age, purpose, and length a mystery.

Rare Cotton Pygmy Goose Sighting in Lahore

( All pictures are taken by me, kindly respect copyrights) 

27th October 2024 (date of sighting)

The past two weeks of birdwatching had been unusually quiet. The smaller birds that normally flit around were nowhere to be seen, replaced by just a few scattered waders and ducks. It felt as though the seasonal changes had driven most of my feathered friends into hiding, and I found myself wondering if today would be just as uneventful.

The afternoon started calmly, with a soft breeze rustling the reeds and distant calls from a few waterfowl. I kept scanning the water’s edge, hoping for something special. Then, suddenly, a Cotton Pygmy Goose appeared! This tiny bird, with its beautiful plumage, stood out brightly against the calm reeds. It was a rare sight in Lahore, a delightful surprise that brought back all the thrill of birdwatching.

As I watched this little gem, memories of past sightings at this same spot came to mind. I remembered my excitement at seeing a Great Bittern here a few weeks back—another bird that rarely shows up around Lahore. I also recalled glimpses of other beautiful birds like the Garganey, the shy Barred Buttonquail, and the graceful Glossy Ibis. Each of those encounters had felt like a gift, and today’s sighting was no different. 

Today's sighting of the Cotton Pygmy Goose rekindled my passion for birdwatching, highlighting the unexpected wonders of nature. This experience emphasizes the value of patience and perseverance, encouraging birdwatchers to explore Lahore's avian history and observe changes in habitats and bird populations.

Rare Sighting of the Oriental Turtle Dove in Lahore

( All pictures are taken by me, kindly respect copyrights) 

05th October 2024 (date of sighting)

On October 5, 2024, while visiting Lahore Safari Park, I was met with an unexpected sight: a flock of six Oriental Turtle Doves, elegantly perched within the Giraffe enclave. This was a rewarding experience and a remarkable occurrence given the limited sightings of these doves in the Lahore region.

Oriental Turtle Dove: A Rare Guest in Lahore:-

The Oriental Turtle Dove (Streptopelia orientalis) is generally found in the northern regions of Pakistan—Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit-Baltistan, and the northern parts of Punjab. Among the five commonly seen dove species in Pakistan—the Eurasian Collared Dove, Red-Collared Dove, Laughing Dove, Spotted Dove, and Oriental Turtle Dove—the latter is arguably the rarest in the Lahore area. 

Historically, the Oriental Turtle Dove was documented in Lahore’s vicinity by A.J. Currie in 1916 in *The Birds of Lahore and Its Vicinity*. His account covers various bird sightings in Lahore’s outskirts, including Attari and Mureedka. Currie’s documentation, including Oriental Turtle Doves, has shaped our understanding of avian species distribution in the region. Since then, there have been few, if any, confirmed records of this species from Lahore, particularly in the age of digital photography, making this recent sighting a true milestone.

Dove Species in Pakistan:-

Each dove species in Pakistan has a particular range, adding layers of diversity to the avian ecosystem:

1. Eurasian Collared Dove and Laughing Dove are the most common doves in Pakistan, seen nearly everywhere except in Gilgit-Baltistan.

2. Red-Collared Dove is more localized, with a stronghold in Punjab and some areas of Sindh.

3. Spotted Dove is found primarily in northern Punjab and parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.

4. Oriental Turtle Dove typically frequents Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit-Baltistan, and northern Punjab, making my sighting in Lahore highly unexpected.

A Brief History of Vagrant Doves in Pakistan:- 

Pakistan has seen occasional vagrant sightings of European dove species in select areas like Balochistan and Gilgit-Baltistan, though these have been rare and largely undocumented since the early 20th century. Given the prevalence of digital cameras, recent vagrants are likely to be documented, yet sightings remain scarce. This rarity adds to the intrigue surrounding my encounter with Oriental Turtle Doves in Lahore, possibly indicating a shift in range or migratory habits.

Observing the Flock:-

The doves appeared settled, resting peacefully among the trees, their plumage blending beautifully with the surrounding greenery. Each had a mix of soft browns and subtle grays, with a characteristic black and white neck pattern distinguishing them from other doves. The flock remained undisturbed, offering ample time for observation and photography.

Significance of the Sighting:- 

This sighting reconnects us with Lahore’s ornithological past, highlighting the unexpected return of the Oriental Turtle Dove to the city. It encourages birdwatchers to continue exploring and observing changes in habitats and the dynamics of bird populations. Additionally, it provides an opportunity to reflect on Lahore's avian history. Whether this is a unique occurrence or indicative of a broader trend will be a topic of interest for future research and observation.