Exploring Kasur: A Journey Through History, Architecture, and Forgotten Streets

 

Kasur, one of the oldest living cities of Punjab, carries the silent echoes of centuries-old history, culture, and architectural grandeur. Known as the city of Baba Bulleh Shah, Kasur’s heritage extends beyond its famous Sufi saint. It was once a fortified city of twelve gates, its foundations linked to the legendary Kusha, son of Lord Rama. Over time, Kasur flourished as a center of trade, spirituality, and culture under Mughal, Sikh, and British influence.

In the heart of Kasur, beyond its bustling bazaars and the shadow of modernity, lie the narrow, labyrinthine streets of Kot Rukandin and the old quarters. These forgotten enclaves are treasure troves for any keen eye—crumbling Mughal-style gateways, intricately carved wooden balconies, colonial-era buildings, and weathered inscriptions narrate tales of a glorious yet fading past.

On my recent photography tour, I walked these streets with my camera, seeking to preserve the overlooked fragments of Kasur’s architectural heritage. In Kot Rukandin, I stumbled upon fading archways, Sikh-era havelis, and old Jain temples that still stand resilient amid decay. Every street corner seemed to unveil a hidden doorway, a carved plaque, or an abandoned smadhi—all lost in time yet whispering stories of the people who once called them home.

This visual journey wasn’t just about architecture—it was about connecting with the soul of Kasur, capturing its silent resilience, and shedding light on its neglected historical layers.

The Arch Gateway of Fazal Manzil, Kasur

Amid the historic alleys of Kot Rukandin in Kasur, the red-brick gateway of Fazal Manzil rises with quiet dignity — a relic of early 20th-century Muslim architectural finesse. Constructed in 1326 Hijri (1908 AD) by Fazal Din, this gateway is a rare surviving specimen of vernacular Mughal-Punjabi style, blending craftsmanship, religious devotion, and poetic sensibility into a single facade.

Architectural Details

The structure's central feature is a four-centered arch rooted in Indo-Islamic tradition, housing a tall wooden gate. The arch is bordered by intricately inlaid brickwork, and the spandrel area above it hosts a large leaf motif carved in relief. This section is adorned with brick jaali (lattice) work, offering decoration and ventilation.

A brick border resembling miniature pillars forms an extended shade, leading upward to a jharokha-style balcony. This gallery, resting on ribbed brick brackets, is capped with a parapet that supports three small wooden arched windows, painted in green. Each window is framed with a delicate brick arch, collectively crowned by a larger unifying brick arch. The visual cohesion is enhanced by filleted brick lines spreading from the arches, connecting the entire upper composition into a unified architectural rhythm.

The thoughtful layering of material and form reflects not just local building practices, but also a deep appreciation for proportion, ornamentation, and symbolic meaning.

Five Inscriptions: 

Perhaps the most spiritually profound element of Fazal Manzil’s gateway is the presence of five engraved plaques, embedded into the brick facade. These inscriptions combine Qur’anic verses, Persian poetry, and devotional expressions, representing the religious ethos and cultural pride of the builder.

🪧Plaque 1 – Qur’anic Verse (Arabic)

قُلْ إِنَّ الْفَضْلَ بِيَدِ اللَّهِ يُؤْتِيهِ مَن يَشَاءُ ۗ وَاللَّهُ وَاسِعٌ عَلِيمٌ
(Surah Aal-e-Imran, 3:73)
Translation:
"Say: Indeed, all bounty is in the hand of Allah—He grants it to whom He wills. And Allah is All-Encompassing, All-Knowing."

This verse anchors the gateway in divine gratitude and faith, attributing all blessings to the will of Allah.

🪧 Plaques 2 & 4 – Persian Poetry in Praise of the Prophet (ﷺ)

محمد عربیؐ کہ آبروئے ہر دو سرا است
کسی کہ خاک درش نیست خاک بر سر او

Translation:
"Muhammad, the Arab, is the honor of both worlds (this world and the hereafter).
He who does not become the dust of His feet, let dust be upon his head!"

This poetic couplet emphasizes the central role of the Prophet Muhammad (ﷺ) in the spiritual world and conveys deep reverence through Sufi-inflected imagery.

🪧 Plaque 3 – Historical Dedication (Urdu)

بذریعہ فضل دین، ۱۳۲۶ ہجری (مطابق ۱۹۰۸ عیسوی)
Translation:
"By Fazal Din, in the year 1326 Hijri (corresponding to 1908 AD)."

A simple but important inscription that gives the mansion its historical context and credit to its builder.

🪧 Plaque 5 – Arabic Devotional Phrase

لَا حَوْلَ وَلَا قُوَّةَ إِلَّا بِاللَّهِ
Translation:
"There is no power and no strength except with Allah."

This phrase is often recited to acknowledge divine control over all matters, especially when human strength falls short.

Fazal Manzil’s gateway is not merely an entrance—it is a physical expression of an era when architecture reflected identity, devotion, and artistry. The inscriptions, motifs, and layout together create a narrative where faith and form are interwoven.

Sadly, the building is in an extreme state of neglect, and the inner portions of the mansion have been dismantled over time.

.

A Local Gurduwara in Kasur with Unkown History

 

Another structure with an elegant entrance stood quietly in Mandir Wali Gali, half hidden behind years of dust and silence. I paused in front of it, drawn in by its graceful archway and the way the morning light fell across its weathered bricks. There was something about it—dignified, yet almost forgotten. Later, over a casual conversation, my friend from Kasur, Amjad Ali Zafar, shared that this building was once a local Gurdwara. That single detail shifted everything. Suddenly, the structure wasn’t just bricks and mortar—it was a sacred space, once alive with prayers, gatherings, and quiet rituals of everyday faith. Unlike the more prominent Jain temples nearby, this Gurdwara had slipped beneath the surface of memory. And yet, standing there, I felt the presence of stories still clinging to its walls—of families, festivals, and farewells, echoing softly in the narrow lane.

Gurdwara Sat Sang Sabha, RA Bazaar, Lahore

Gurdwara Sat Sang Sabha was a small local Sikh gurdwara located in the heart of RA Bazaar, Lahore. It functioned as a neighborhood place of worship before the Partition of 1947 and is believed to be associated with the Sat Sang Sabha movement, which began in Lahore in 1873 as part of a broader wave of Sikh religious and social reform.

The Sat Sang Sabha aimed to revive Sikh identity, encourage moral discipline, and eliminate superstitious practices by returning to the teachings of the Guru Granth Sahib. It played a significant role in laying the groundwork for the later Singh Sabha movement, which had a transformative effect on Sikh society during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Lahore, as the intellectual and cultural hub of Punjab, was central to this revivalist spirit, and local gurdwaras like this one likely served as nodes for spiritual discourse and reformist activity.

After Partition, with the migration of the Sikh population to India, the gurdwara was abandoned. Today, the structure still survives, though it has been repurposed into residential use. Its architectural elements—such as arched doorways or remnants of the prayer hall—may still offer quiet hints of its original identity, but they are increasingly at risk of being lost to time and urban expansion.

Though modest in scale, Gurdwara Sat Sang Sabha stands as a silent testament to the once-thriving Sikh presence in Lahore and the reformist currents that shaped modern Sikh thought.

Gurudwara Guru Singh Sabha Dharampura, Lahore

This former Gurudwara Guru Singh Sabha archway stands discreetly in the rushy bazaar of Dharampura (now Mustafaabad), Lahore. Once marking the entrance to a small local Sikh place of worship, this arched gateway is the only surviving element of the Gurudwara. Over time, shops have taken over the lower portion, and only the upper part of the arch remains visible above the market crowd. A faded Khanda symbol can still be seen at the top center, silently bearing witness to its Sikh heritage.

The Gurudwara Guru Singh Sabha was historically linked to the Singh Sabha Movement. This major Sikh reform initiative began in the late 19th century to promote education, religious clarity, and community revival. The Sri Guru Singh Sabha Lahore was officially established on 2 November 1879, with key figures like Diwan Buta Singh and Gurmukh Singh playing foundational roles (Discover Sikhism, Wikipedia).

Today, nothing else remains of the original Gurudwara structure—only this lone arch survives, surrounded by commercial activity, stripped of its religious function but retaining deep historical and cultural value.

Dharampura is one of Lahore’s most historic and culturally layered localities. Established in 1583 by Emperor Akbar as a designated settlement for Hindus, it continues to echo its old identity despite being officially renamed Mustafaabad after the 1947 Partition. To this day, locals affectionately refer to it by its original name, Dharampura.

Located between the Walled City of Lahore and the Lahore Cantonment, this working-class area still preserves subtle yet telling signs of its rich, pre-Partition religious and cultural diversity.

A special thanks to Dr. Zishan Ahmed for guiding me to this hidden spot. Without his help, I could not have reached it in a million years—it lies deep within a narrow, overcrowded market bustling with female customers. If you plan to visit, try doing so early in the morning, when the market is still waking up; otherwise, there’s hardly space to place a foot.

The Atlas Weighbridge: A Legacy at Kasur Junction

At Kasur Junction, a cast-iron platform scale, bearing the name “Atlas Weighbridge & Engineering Co., Howrah,” stands as a silent reminder of the colonial era. Manufactured by Atlas Weighbridge, a prominent engineering company in Howrah, West Bengal, these mechanical scales were widely used across railway stations, grain markets, and depots during the British colonial period.

Founded in the late 19th century, Atlas Weighbridge & Engineering Co. quickly became known for its precision engineering and durable products. Specializing in the design and manufacture of mechanical weighbridges, the company played a pivotal role in outfitting India's expanding railway network and commercial hubs with reliable and accurate weighing equipment. At its peak, Atlas was synonymous with quality in the field of industrial and transport-scale manufacturing.

The scale at Kasur Junction, built without the need for electricity, relies on counterweights and levers to accurately weigh goods. The inscription “To Weigh 5 CWT” indicates a capacity of 254 kilograms, typical for mid-sized cargo. This scale, though rusted, remains functional, offering a glimpse into the past where these precise instruments played a crucial role in maintaining fair trade and safe loading practices in India’s colonial railway system.

Today, the scale at Kasur Junction isn’t just a piece of old machinery—it’s a living piece of history. It stands quietly, still doing its job, a reminder of the skilled craftsmanship and ingenuity that went into its creation. While the world around it has embraced modern technology, this humble scale remains a symbol of the past, still functional and steadfast. In a way, it feels as though it has witnessed the passage of time, from the colonial era to today, serving as a bridge between the past and the present.