REMNANTS OF ARCH BRIDGE of MUGHAL ERA on CHHOTI DEGH & ITS STORY of DEMISE

 February 26, 2018

by Ali Usman Baig

A few years ago, I had the opportunity to visit a remarkable bridge that dated back 400 years to the Mughal Era. This architectural marvel was situated on Degh Nala and captured my interest after reading an extensive article about it by Sir Salman Rasheed. Intriguingly, Sir Salman Rasheed's article also mentioned another Mughal-era bridge located on a branch of the Degh known as the Chhoti or Lesser Degh, not far to the west.

For a considerable period, I struggled to pinpoint the exact location of this place. However, after much effort, I finally succeeded and visited the site last Sunday. As I arrived, I noticed the remnants of the collapsed bridge scattered across the stream, a stark reminder of its former grandeur.

The length of the bridge was measured to be 30 meters, identical to the Mughal Era Bridge situated on the main Degh River. It was an arch bridge, featuring four arches with a center-to-center distance of 7.5 meters. Construction of the bridge is believed to have taken place in the later decades of the sixteenth century.

An analysis of the chemical and mineral composition of the Mughal mortar renders, and plaster from the seventeenth century revealed the presence of coarse materials such as bricks, kankar pieces, and slag, along with fine aggregates like river sand. These materials were typically combined with a calcite lime binder. The specific ratio of binder to aggregate varied depending on the functional requirements of each masonry unit. The chemical composition, both major and trace elements, indicated the use of locally available raw materials in the construction of these historical monuments. In the current bridge, the construction comprised Nanak Shahi bricks internally reinforced and filled with calcite lime mortar.

Arch bridges, which have been utilized for over 3000 years, remain one of the most popular bridge designs. During the Roman Empire, stone and wood arch bridges gained significant popularity, with architects successfully constructing over 1000 stone arch bridges across Europe, Asia, and North Africa. Remarkably, many of these bridges have endured to this day. Contrary to the belief that the 1976 flood led to the collapse of the bridge I visited, it appeared that the disintegration of the arch members originated from the top crown. Arch bridges primarily rely on compression to bear loads. The failure I observed seemed to result from overloaded vehicles frequently crossing the bridge, ironically serving as a common route for heavily loaded tractor trolleys for decades. Evidently, the Mughal architects did not anticipate such substantial wheel loads when designing the bridge.

The remnants of the bridge include the remains of 2-foot-high, 40-meter-long roadside wing walls that run on both ends of the bridge along the road. These walls are accompanied by columns at the beginning of each wing wall, making the bridge visible from a distance. It is worth noting that the length of the bridge is nearly double the current width of the Nala, indicating that the Nala has significantly narrowed over time due to reduced water flow in the River Ravi. Presently, a new bridge has been constructed over the debris of the collapsed one.

In the past, this bridge served as a crucial crossing point for the military troops of the Mughal and Sikh armies. It witnessed the passage of numerous centuries. Sadly, no relevant authority has ever taken the initiative to restore or protect this historical gem, instead attributing its destruction to floods.

It is disheartening to witness the fading away of such a significant piece of history, lost forever to the sands of time.

  Looking towards Debris

 Wing Walls

 new bridge & old bridge

 Another view

 Disintegration from Crown

 Pillars at crown wall

 view of debris from new bridge

 wing wall

 Debris

 Another view of wing wall

 Wing Wall

 Arch

Google earth view 

Mamdot Villa

20-01-2018

Nawab Shah Nawaz Khan, born in 1883 in Mamdot, holds a significant place in the history of the All-India Muslim League. One of his notable contributions came in March 1940 when he played a pivotal role in organizing the historic session of the party in Lahore. Known for his unwavering commitment, Sir Shah Nawaz Mamdot generously shouldered all the expenses for the session, highlighting his dedication to the cause.

During the years from 1937 to 1947, Sir Shah Nawaz Mamdot emerged as one of Quaid-e-Azam's most trusted and loyal associates. His unwavering support and commitment to the vision of Quaid-e-Azam earned him the status of a trusted lieutenant. Throughout this period, Sir Shah Nawaz Mamdot stood by the side of Quaid-e-Azam, actively participating in various political endeavors and contributing to the growth and progress of the All-India Muslim League.

The Mamdot villa, situated in Lahore, held special significance in the life of Quaid-e-Azam. 

Kot Ramdas

Kot Ramdas, the Ruin of Gurdwara & Grave of Muslim Saint in Sikh Smadi

Visited the place: 02-07-2017

(All pictures are owned, kindly respect copyrights)

Kot Ramdas is a small village, which is situated some three miles South of Nandipur. 

Outside of this village, in green fields, a two-story, square, British-era building is standing. At first glance, the building does not give you any impression that this was an old Gurdwara. Locals told before the 1947 Partition, KOT Ramdas was a Sikh populated Village. After, Pakistan came into being; no Sikh family left in Kot Ramdas as they migrated to India. From then, it was converted and used as a girl’s school. A few years back the top roof which was resting on wooden beams has been collapsed and also it created cracks on walls.  The building is in no use now and in extremely critical condition and can be fallen down at any time.  

Nobody knows the exact history and year of construction of this Gurdwara. However, the building structural member’s configuration and construction material usage give a rough idea that it must have been constructed in the early years of the Nineteenth Century.

The most interesting element of fascination in the front elevation is the multifold arch entrance. Also, the arrangement of square windows and closed brick masonry arches in the front elevation wall was magnificently designed.

In front of Gurdwara, we found the remnant of a brick masonry wall, which was used as a Sarovar in past. Sarovar/sacred pools are considered to have curative properties because of the continual prayers of Sikh scripture recited in the vicinity.

On the backside, of this Gurdwara three well-constructed Smadi’s are present. Unfortunately, the inner walls which once painted with fresco artwork are whitewashed. However, the outer walls' paintwork is still in original colors up to some extent. On top of Smadi’s roof domes are present with equal partitioned lining and artwork.

Well, constructed Smadi’s is a sign that Sikhs living in KOT Ramdas village before the 1947 partition must be wealthy and rich. There is also a fourth Smadi’s which is located at some distance from Gurdwara.

In one Smadi, you will find a grave, which is told to be of a Muslim Saint.  This Smadi was tried to be converted into a Tomb. However, Locals told that it was an illegal failed attempt to occupy the Gurdwara’s land.

In past, there was also a well in the vicinity, which was filled with time.

One more interesting thing is the carved painting of a peacock on the backside boundary wall.

There is no research and writing specifically done on this Gurdwara. My purpose in visiting this place was to document this place before it got vanished from my eyes forever.

One last thing, which hurts me after visiting this place, was that this building was used as a school for more than five decades.  When I visit this place, there were children playing in the vicinity of this gurdwara, most of them telling proudly their parents got an education in this building in past. Now the building taking its last breath, this building was their first institute of schooling, which is now turned into ruins.

Everybody has childhood memories, specifically associated with their schools. I don’t know how the old alumnus of this school feels, as their childhood memories turned into ruins and debris.

I wished they at least have taken some steps to preserve their school if not doing this for a Gurdwara building.

 (ELEVATION)

 (ELEVATION)

 (SMADI)

 The Smadi Converted into Shrine

 (Three Smadi's)

 (Fersco Art Work)

 (ELEVATION)

 Gurdawara and Smadi's in Background

  Ruins

 Elevation

 Smadi's

 The carved Peacock Painting on Boundary Wall

 Krishna Painting

 Elevation

 Smadis

 The Muslim Grave in Smadi

 Smadi

 (Author)

 (Smadi)

 (another View)

(04th Smadi)

The Brick Tomb of Sheikh Sadan Shaheed

02 November 2017

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)

A few years ago, a friend of mine, Dr. Muzamil, shared a picture of an extraordinary tomb with me, sparking my curiosity. The intricate cut-brick decoration adorning the walls of this structure left me awe-struck. Never before had I witnessed such unique architecture in Pakistan. I initially believed it to be a one-of-a-kind masterpiece, but as it turned out, I was mistaken.

This tomb is believed to have been constructed during the Khiljis dynasty, which followed the Muslim Tughlaq, Ghorids, and Slave dynasties from 1320 to 1413.

The tomb of Muhammad Harun, an Arab governor of Makran in the early 8th century A.D., is considered to be the oldest Muslim tomb in Pakistan. This square brick structure features a chamber covered by a low dome. The second specimen in this series is the so-called tomb of Khalid Walid, located in the village of Khattichaur near Kabirwala.

The final example in this series is the tomb of Sheikh Sadan Shaheed, situated near the village of Jalaran, along the Muzaffargarh-Jhang road. This brick tomb stands on a raised platform, approximately two meters above the surrounding ground. The intricate cut-brick decoration distinguishes this tomb, placing it in a unique position among the early funerary buildings in Pakistan. Its design reflects the influence and continuation of Hindu-Buddhist architectural elements, a feature rarely found in early Muslim structures in the country. Inside the square chamber, the use of corner squinches creates an octagonal shape through corbelled brick courses.

I had the opportunity to visit this tomb last year in early November, on a Thursday. To my amazement, there was a large gathering of followers, who had arrived with their families on tractor trolleys from nearby villages to pay their respects and offer tribute. Adjacent to the tomb, there was a small mosque where people recited the Quran and some tied ribbons of hope at the entrance. Several stalls were set up, offering pastries, bangles, sweets, and shawls adorned with Quranic verses.

The tomb is located approximately 2.5 kilometers from the Chenab River. Local legends are associated with this sacred site. One story suggests that when Sheikh Sadan Shaheed passed away, the locals buried him on nearby sand dunes and constructed the tomb there. The initial location differed from the current site. It is said that Sheikh Sadan Shaheed was a follower of Taunsa Sahib, and the first shrine was intended to be built at a higher elevation than the Taunsa Sahib Shrine. Over time, as a token of gratitude from his followers, the shrine gradually descended from the top of the nearby sand dunes.

The second myth associated with this tomb is that no roof can be constructed atop it.

Although the authenticity of these legends and stories remains uncertain, one undeniable truth about this tomb is that it symbolizes the rich civilization and heritage of our land. The intricate cut-brickwork is a testament to the skilled craftsmanship of the past. Efforts must be made to preserve this national heritage and ensure its survival for future generations to appreciate and admire.

    (ELEVATION)

   (followers binding ribbons of hope at entrance)

 (Elevation)

 (Elevation)

 (Women Reciting Quran)

 Followers from nearby villages

 stalls

 Binding ribbon of hope

  locals thought the original location of this tomb was at top of this sand dune

 local from nearby villages came for offering there gratitude

 Nearby Mosque

 Inside View of Tomb

 locals

 Author

 local villagers

Chenab in background