KOT SATGARAH the GATEWAY to SOON VALLEY (2019)

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Date of Visit February 02, 2019

 32°33'23.21"N,  72°24'44.23"E

The embankment dam like structure of Kot Satgarah raises many questions in once mind. What could be the reason of construction of this structure? Why this location chosen for this construction? What is the historical background of this structure?  Let’s discuss in detail all aspect of this site.

The site of Kot Satgarah is located in north of small village named Katha Marsal. In ancient times a route that connect plains of Punjab to Peshawar passes from this valley. On gateway of this valley the Site of Kot Satgarah was constructed. Also, in past things of archeological importance discovered from nearby village of Katha Sanghral, which further proven presence of human in suburbs of this area.

The word ‘Kot Satgarah’ is combination of two words, ‘Kot’ and ‘Satgarh’, in Soon valley ‘Kot’ normally refers to a plateau located at some high land but here it may be used for small fort, which was act as check post at gateway of this valley. The site is located at junction of two rivers coming from sources of rugged mountains of Noshera and Chambal.  Also many small mountains streams merge in these rivers and finally fall in downstream in river Jhelum. 

The construction of Kot Satgarah is at least five centuries old.  Construction materials used in this structure taken from the queries of lime and red stones.  At present only a rectangular embankment wall standing, which have rough dimensions in foots of 25 x 75.  The embankment wall was further fortified with bastion columns along with the length. Most of the portions of structure destroyed with time.  Also, in embankment wall seven spillways opening present, for continuous flow of water after maintaining some head at upstream. There is stairway present to reach top of deck. Also there is vertical shaft present in structure which has trench opening that connects with all spillways.

In Pakistan, this is the one of the oldest dam structures present. The purpose of this structure must be to protect downstream villages from flash floods as well.

Local people attribute construction of the Kot Satgarah with Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri, Who came to this region in middle of fifteen century. However no historical writing proved this fact that this embankment checks post constructed by him.

There is need of conducting studies to properly investigate the exact era of this construction. The route on which this site was constructed has seen convoys, Hindu Jogi’s, religious pilgrims and Buddhist Monks, since the ancient ages and there are solid chances that the present edifice may be constructed on some old foot prints.

Sincere efforts required from all concerned departments to look after this heritage and rehabilitate this site of great historical importance.

            

                 

NURSHINGH PHOWAAR TEMPLE, SOON VALLEY (2019)

 February 02, 2019

(All images copyright 2019 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

In the year 2019, we embarked on a memorable hike from Nurshingh Phowar to Katha Sagral. The entire trek was a feast for the eyes, offering breathtaking scenery with its limestone formations, rugged mountains, coal mines, rivers, fossils, waterfalls, and historic sites such as Nurshingh Phowar and Kot Satgarah.

During my journey, I came across a book on Soon Valley written by Muhammad Sarwar Khan Awan. In his book, he mentioned that in ancient times, this route extended all the way to Peshawar. The Soon Valley itself has been a treasure trove for archaeologists, as they have discovered remnants of numerous prehistoric Hindu temples and forts. One such temple stands in Nurshingh Phowar.

According to historical accounts, the origins of this place are intertwined with a Hindu Sadhu named Nurshingh Das. Legend has it that he arrived in the valley and was captivated by the serene and tranquil environment, prompting him to commence his meditation there. It is believed that a spring emerged from the adjacent mountains where the Sadhu sat. In honor of Nurshingh Das, his followers constructed a temple in the area.

The temple, constructed using limestone bricks, features a rectangular shape with a dome. Its appearance suggests that it may have been built upon the foundations of an older temple. Interestingly, the worship room inside the temple does not house any deity.

Adjacent to the temple, there is a pond that is filled with water sourced from the spring flowing down from the neighboring mountains. Prior to the partition of India and Pakistan, an annual festival used to be celebrated at this site during the month of Beesakh. Hindu pilgrims from various regions would gather here during that time.

Between 1831 and 1839, Ranjit Singh granted Gulab Singh the jaegers (land grants) of salt mines and the surrounding areas in Pakistani Punjab. A stone with Gurumukhi script can be found at the site, bearing an inscription that translates to:

"The mighty one could be found by only the true Guru (teacher)

15th Poh (a month in the Punjabi calendar), 1887

The land belongs to Nurshingh Phowar, given by Gulab Singh."

The exact period when Nurshingh Das arrived in the valley remains unknown. Nevertheless, it is crucial to take strong measures to protect and preserve this site of significant historical interest. The temple and its surroundings hold immense value, not only for their architectural and religious significance but also for the insights they provide into the region's ancient past.