The Last left Hindu Temple of Kunjah and history of the town

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

Once a humble village nestled in the Gujrat district, Kunjah has transformed into a vibrant modern town. Amongst the new developments and bustling streets, an old Hindu temple stands tall, bearing witness to a bygone era. This dilapidated structure, dating back to the early 20th century, showcases a vertical spire rising from the sanctum, overlooking what was once a prayer hall but now serves as a residential area. Unfortunately, the fate of this temple mirrors that of many other Hindu temples in Punjab, Pakistan. Adjacent to it, a parking stand now occupies the space that was once a serene pond, an integral part of this sacred temple.

Before the fateful partition of 1947, Kunjah boasted a diverse community, harmoniously coexisting with followers of different religions. Remnants of several elegant pre-partition Hindu buildings can still be found within the city, albeit most of them are now inhabited by migrant families who settled here after the partition. These architectural marvels are a testament to a rich cultural heritage and a reminder of the vibrant past that Kunjah once embraced.

The traces of human settlements in Kunjah can be traced back to the 4th century BC, offering a glimpse into the town's ancient origins. Some historians speculate that the place derived its name from Raja Kanjpal, while others attribute its significance to Ibrahim of Ghazna (1033 to 1099 AD), also known as Ibrahim Bin Masood, who utilized Kunjah as a base for his campaigns in Hindustan. Throughout medieval times, Kunjah remained strategically important, and during the Mughal period, King Alamgir graced the town with his presence. A mosque, named after him, once adorned the area, symbolizing its historical and religious significance.

In its prime, Kunjah was a fortified city, protected by robust walls that served as a defense against invading forces. Not too long ago, remnants of various monuments from the Sikh period could still be found, offering glimpses into the town's illustrious past. These included temples, samadhis, gardens, two palaces, a fort, a grand pool, a gurudwara later converted to a Mazaar, and a shamshan ghat (cremation ground). Regrettably, the passage of time has eroded these historical edifices, leaving only a handful of sites that continue to stand today. The aforementioned Hindu temple, with its weathered grandeur, serves as a poignant reminder of the town's history, while the Baradari from the Sikh era still echoes tales of its former glory.

As Kunjah evolves into a modern town, it is crucial to recognize the significance of its historical heritage. Preserving and safeguarding these remaining historical sites is essential to honor the town's diverse cultural past and to offer future generations a glimpse into their roots. By embracing and cherishing its rich history, Kunjah can pave the way for a harmonious future where the old and the new coexist, bridging the gap between eras and celebrating the town's remarkable journey through time.

Pond

Remains of A 'Dakh Chowki' in Eminabad (2020)

 32° 2'28.82"N 74°15'23.26"E

Relevance: Dakh Chowki, Garden

Date of Visit:- 23 August 2020

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Article-No. 11 on Eminabad

Eminabad is a town located 10 to 15 kilometers southeast of Gujranwala city. The history of this town is quite ancient, it is believed that the town was inhabited during the first century BCE by Raja Salavan of Sialkot.

In Eminabad, before the partition of Hindustan, a large community of Hindus and Sikhs used to live alongside Muslims. One can still find remains of many beautiful architectures of that era present in the forms of Havelis, Gardens, Gateways, Temples, and Gurdwaras.

Near the old Gateway of Eminabad an old structure is standing, local people called it 'Dakh Chowki', however, was a corner bastion of a pre-partition walled Garden. it has a staircase and rooms constructed on one side. 

NURSHINGH PHOWAAR TEMPLE, SOON VALLEY (2019)

 February 02, 2019

(All images copyright 2019 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

In the year 2019, we embarked on a memorable hike from Nurshingh Phowar to Katha Sagral. The entire trek was a feast for the eyes, offering breathtaking scenery with its limestone formations, rugged mountains, coal mines, rivers, fossils, waterfalls, and historic sites such as Nurshingh Phowar and Kot Satgarah.

During my journey, I came across a book on Soon Valley written by Muhammad Sarwar Khan Awan. In his book, he mentioned that in ancient times, this route extended all the way to Peshawar. The Soon Valley itself has been a treasure trove for archaeologists, as they have discovered remnants of numerous prehistoric Hindu temples and forts. One such temple stands in Nurshingh Phowar.

According to historical accounts, the origins of this place are intertwined with a Hindu Sadhu named Nurshingh Das. Legend has it that he arrived in the valley and was captivated by the serene and tranquil environment, prompting him to commence his meditation there. It is believed that a spring emerged from the adjacent mountains where the Sadhu sat. In honor of Nurshingh Das, his followers constructed a temple in the area.

The temple, constructed using limestone bricks, features a rectangular shape with a dome. Its appearance suggests that it may have been built upon the foundations of an older temple. Interestingly, the worship room inside the temple does not house any deity.

Adjacent to the temple, there is a pond that is filled with water sourced from the spring flowing down from the neighboring mountains. Prior to the partition of India and Pakistan, an annual festival used to be celebrated at this site during the month of Beesakh. Hindu pilgrims from various regions would gather here during that time.

Between 1831 and 1839, Ranjit Singh granted Gulab Singh the jaegers (land grants) of salt mines and the surrounding areas in Pakistani Punjab. A stone with Gurumukhi script can be found at the site, bearing an inscription that translates to:

"The mighty one could be found by only the true Guru (teacher)

15th Poh (a month in the Punjabi calendar), 1887

The land belongs to Nurshingh Phowar, given by Gulab Singh."

The exact period when Nurshingh Das arrived in the valley remains unknown. Nevertheless, it is crucial to take strong measures to protect and preserve this site of significant historical interest. The temple and its surroundings hold immense value, not only for their architectural and religious significance but also for the insights they provide into the region's ancient past.

    

SARAI MUGHAL (2018)

Date of  visit 04-03-2018
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Tomb in Sarai Mughal

Ten years back Sir Salman Rasheed wrote enlightening writing about Sarai Chamba and Akbar era tomb near Sarai Mughal.

Sarai Mughal is a small village that lies hardly seven kilometers from the Head Baloki. Last year, I traveled to Sarai Mughal to visit one of the tomb sites. Fortunately, along with that tomb, I found remnants of two more historical edifices in Sarai Mughal Village. Not sure what was the name of Sarai Mughal in the past, but it is named like this due to the presence of a caravanserai in its vicinity. 

An arched gateway standing in the middle of the village constructed from Mughal era bricks. Imran Saeed is another brilliant historical writer who has visited this place and he thought that this could be the only evidence that this place once lies between the ancient route between Lahore and Multan that was called Kakkhan Wali Sarak.

The other landmark, found in this village was ruins of a British-era rest house. The most notable thing about that rest house was that it was also constructed from Mughal era bricks. These Mughal era bricks must be taken from the parts of old Sarai building.

Also, I found many houses in this village which construction done by Mughal era bricks.

Syed Muhammad Ibrahim Daud Bandagi Kirmani (2018)

Date of Visit 06-03-2018

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Syed Muhammad Ibrahim alias Shaikh Daud Bandagi Kirmani was a famous 16th-century saint of the Qadiri order. His grandfather and great grandfather migrated from Kirman to Sitpur, Muzzafargarh in circa 1410. Muhammad Ibrahim was born in Sitpur in 1513 AD (919 AH). After receiving formal religious instruction in Dipalpur and Lahore at the hands of eminent scholars of the time, Shaikh Daud decided to relinquish all worldly and material pursuits and chose for himself the path of esotericism. Shaikh Daud, in the quest of spiritual enlightenment, spent years in extreme worship, complete solitude, and absolute self-denial. Although he obtained sainthood through the "Owaisi tariqat", that is, without recourse to any outward teacher or murshid, Shaikh Daud later joined the Qadiri Order at the hands of Shaikh Hamid Gillani Uchi at Satghara. After formally becoming a member of the influential Qadiri Silsilah, Daud Bandagi Kirmani established his khankah in the remote village of Shergarh (in present-day District Okara) which subsequently became the center of the Qadiri order and started to attract multitudes of people from all walks of life. Daud Bandagi Kirmani through his sanctity, egalitarianism, and compassion converted a large number of Jat and Rajput Hindu tribes of Punjab to Islam. Some of the tribes converted either fully or partially by the saint are, the Chatta's, Cheema's, Virk's, Bajwa's, Tarrar's, Sahi's, Wattoo's, Majhiana's, etc.

Some of the famous disciples of the saint were, Shah Abul Muali Kirmani Qadiri (his nephew and son-in-law), Mullah Abdul Qadir Badaoni (the famous historian during the time of Akbar), Shaikh Jalaluddin alias Behlol Dehlavi (the maternal ancestor of Maulana Abul Kalam Azad), Shaikh Abu Ishaq Muzangi, etc.

Shaikh Daud Bandagi Kirmani passed away in 1575 AD (982 AH). His mausoleum in Shergarh is a splendid example of early Mughal architecture. The interior of the mausoleum is decorated with intricate Naqashi – fresco. On each of the eight interior panels is a Persian couplet by Shah Abul Muali extolling the virtues of the saint. The annual Urs celebration of the Shaikh is held in Shergarh from the 13th to the 17th of March. Tens of thousands of devotees from all parts of the country throng in Shergarh to pay homage to the saint who brought their forefathers into the fold of Islam more than four centuries ago.