Sabeena of Sheringal Desan

Sabeena is a daughter of Shepherd who is living at meadows of Desans. Sabeena Born along with her twin brother. Unfortunately, the boy died at early age. Her father still remember the demise of boy. Her father offered us lunch, in which all dishes are made from cow milk.

Pahar ki choti per aisa lunch. Though despite of such a lavish free food we were not able to eat more than a bite as our stomachs are not used to such pure food and tongue was unfamiliar to its taste. So took pickle out of bag and enjoyed the bread (roti). Sun rays were so hot here that mobile gave error. Shutting down due to over heating. It's house of Brother of our guide. On seeing us from a distance that we changed path towards their house. I saw fresh smoke coming out of chimney as women started making food ready. No words said. Neither they could have heard us from such a distance. We only changed our direction and they started cooking. I have seen this hospitality before so it was lovely to see it again. Kohistani people are the most misunderstood people in Pakistan.

Location: Sheringal Dasaan

Butterflies of Swat

Trekking is not only name of traversing some certain land. You can document many interesting things like topographical features, mountains, streams, locals foods, birds, fossils, plant types, flora fauna and many more things.

I found elven species of butterflies in Swat during my recent four days visit, without the help of my friend Ackram Awan it could be impossible to learn about there ids.

Birds of Utror, Swat

I recently spent four days in Utror surroundings, in this tour visited Desan, Spinkhwar lake, Shahi Bagh, Gabral, and Karkara lake. Along mesmerizing mountains, waterfalls, lakes, and natural scenes also sighted some beautiful birds.

Euroasian Goldfinch (Grey-Crowned) Carduells caniceps vigors
Spotted in the way of Karkaray Lake rom Gabral 15-07-2019

I am not into birding, taken this shot just casually during trekking in Shahi Bagh upper swat. learning about there names is fun. Plumbeous water red start at shahi bagh utror swat 15/7/2019

Not a clear picture looks to me blue rock thrush spotted at karkaray lake gabral

Shahi Bagh Swat has a feeling of nostalgia in it. The most amazing thing there is part of the land which is like an island, river water flowing there from all directions a wooden bridge connects it. There are many waterfalls and a few glacial lakes on top of mountains. On the upstream side, there is a lush green meadow. The area is covered with pine, almond, and paper trees. Saw some amazing varieties of birds there but sadly did not take tele lens. 
saw this yellow-breasted green finch (female) there

 yellow-breasted green finch (male) Shahi Bagh

Black Red Start 17/07/2019
Spotted it  at altitude of 3600 meter after crossing Desan

Blue Fronted Redstart
Spotted it  at an altitude of 3600 meters after crossing Desan

Grey wagtail
Spotted in the way of Karkaray Lake rom Gabral 15-07-2019

KHUKA ALSO NAMED AS NATAIN BAOLI/STEPWELL (2018)

Date of Visit:- 09-11-2018

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)

Inside View of landing/Stair Portion

Inside View of landing/Stair Portion

My acquaintance with Khuka Baoli came from website, ‘Stepwells Atlas” way back in 2015.  I visited Jhelum few times but could not able to visit this site due to always shortage of time. Also,  I was little bit baffled about the directions to reach my desired spot.  

However, I planned  my journey on the help of coordinates from Lahore and reached Rohtas fort. On outside front of Talaqi gate, Gurdwara Choa Sahib Site located, where Baba Guru Nanak is believed to have created water spring during one of his Udasi journeys.

A dirt road named ‘Shah Muhammad Shaheed’, running along the outer periphery of the fort and took westwards turn from Choa Shaib and crosses Kahan River to reach Rajopindi. Shah Muhammad Shaheed road is actually located on old Grand trunk road footprints. 

Rajopindi is another historical site, where a Mughal era Sarai is located. I could not stop here because of shortage of time.
On further travelling on same road in north direction, we reached at junction of Gattar-Dina Road. On left side of this junction a small village named Natain is located and on right side Khuka Village is located. Our desired site is located on ancient GT road that passes between these two villages roughly 850 meters from Gattar-Dina Road. Interestingly the step well is famous by two names “Khuka Baoli” and “Natain Baoli” derived from these villages.

Google Earth imagery showing Natain and Khuka village along the stepwell

At last, we reached to this site; Stepwells usually consist of two parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and the surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers and steps which provide access to the well.

The inclined landing portion has width equal to 5.38 meters and length 28.66 meters. The last buried tunnel portion is 4.00 meter in length. The diameter of vertical shaft (well) was roughly 6 meters.
The Step well, vertical shaft is converted into pumping stations by locals.

The well is used as a pumping Station

Google Earth imagery

Vertical Shaft/ Well

Sadly, no historical document and proof have been found about this structure, which could helpful in approximation of time period of this construction. Step well, Gujarati (vav), Hindi (baoli or baori), subterranean edifice and water source, an architectural form that was long popular throughout India.

However, it is believed that the present Baoli is constructed in Mughal period of somewhat reign of Emperor of Akbar or Jahangir.

 On return, we took Gattar Dina road, and have to cross under this r British era passage  

  

Shingardara Stupa (2019)

As you travel along the scenic river Swat, specifically from Barikot to Odigram, you will come across several Buddhist monuments that dot the landscape. Among these remarkable structures, the most notable is the stupa located at Shingardar, also spelled as Shankardâr. According to local legend, this stupa holds a connection to a legendary king named Uttarasena.

Legend has it that King Uttarasena, under the command of his master, collected and safeguarded the relics of Buddha within this magnificent stupa. The significance of this historical figure and the sacred relics stored within the stupa have contributed to its esteemed reputation.

However, it is worth noting that the stupa associated with King Uttarasena was not constructed during the late fifth century BCE, which marked the period after Buddha's ascent to Nirvana. Rather, it was built during the sixth century CE, indicating a considerably later timeframe. The architectural features of the stupa, particularly the presence of "Greek" pilasters, exhibit Greek influences, further supporting this later dating.

The stupa of King Uttarasena stands as an imposing structure, its grandeur captured in the accompanying photographs. In the second photo, the foreground reveals a road that cuts through the stupa's foundation. While this act can be seen as an unfortunate act of vandalism, it inadvertently provides us with a better understanding of the monument's immense size. The stupa itself measures a striking eighteen meters, with its foundations extending a significant eight meters below the surface.

Within the stupa's basement, there exists a hole that has been utilized by treasure hunters seeking to acquire the sacred relics of Buddha. This stupa, in comparison to the one at Zurmala, not only surpasses it in size but also boasts superior preservation due to its relatively more recent construction.

The stupa of King Uttarasena stands as a testament to the rich Buddhist heritage in the region, inviting visitors to appreciate its historical significance and architectural splendor. It serves as a tangible reminder of the profound impact Buddhism had in shaping the cultural and artistic landscape of the Swat Valley.

The Ancient Bazira of Alexander (2019)

The Ancient City of Bazira and in the background Scared Hindu Shahi mountain Jugianosar

Bazira, the ancient city associated with Alexander the Great, is situated in the southern region of the Swat Valley within the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province of Pakistan. Positioned approximately 20 km (12 mi) away from both Mingora and Butkara, it serves as the gateway to the Swat valley and is home to an approximate population of 25,000.

The exploration of the ancient town of Bazira, located beneath the modern settlement of Barikot, has been carried out by the Italian Archaeological Mission (later renamed ISMEO) since 1984, under the guidance of Giuseppe Tucci. Over the years, these excavations have uncovered intriguing ruins, shedding light on the city's historical significance.

During the 1980s and 1990s, the expeditions unearthed remains of an Indo-Greek town dating back to the reign of King Menander I in the 2nd century BCE. However, starting from 2011, a new excavation in the southwestern corner of the site revealed even older settlements. One of these pre-Indo-Greek layers has been dated to the mid-3rd century BCE, placing it within the Mauryan era. It is believed that an earlier settlement existed before being conquered and possibly destroyed by Alexander the Great during the 4th century BCE. Additionally, in close proximity to Bazira, a village belonging to the Gandhara grave culture, spanning the 7th to 8th century BCE, was also discovered. Delving deeper into history, the oldest layer beneath Barikot dates back to 1000-1100 BCE, representing an ancient village of that era.

At its peak during the 2nd century BCE, the town of Bazira covered an area of approximately 12 hectares (30 acres), including the acropolis, or about 7 hectares (17 acres) excluding it. The city was protected by a defensive wall fortified with massive rectangular bastions. Numerous artifacts have been unearthed during the excavations, providing insights into the daily life of Bazira's inhabitants. These artifacts range from coins and pottery to weapons. Among the notable discoveries are significant items highlighting the Buddhist history of Bazira, such as a large green-schist statue of Siddhartha Buddha riding his horse Kanthaka, and a carved representation of a stupa adorned with two lions. Another intriguing statue depicts an unknown deity seated on a throne, characterized by long, curled hair, and holding a wine goblet along with a severed goat head, possibly representing Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, or another local deity.

During the Kushan Empire, Bazira thrived as a major town. However, a series of earthquakes in the 3rd century CE caused extensive devastation. Combined with the decline of the Kushan Empire, these factors ultimately led to the abandonment of Bazira by the end of the 3rd century.

The archaeological excavations at Bazira offer valuable insights into the rich history of the region, tracing back through different cultural and historical periods. The artifacts and structures discovered at this site provide glimpses into the daily lives, religious beliefs, and cultural influences that shaped Bazira over time.

 

Indo Greek Defensive Walls

Indo Greek Definsive Wall

Indo Greek Defensive Wall