Tracing Roots: A Journey into Lahore's Anglo-Indian History with Rob Cranenburgh

In my article titled "Lahore's Timeless Charm: Unveiling the Enchanting Tale of Victoria Park and its Bygone Anglo-Indian Community," The article delves into the interesting history of Charing Cross and Victoria Park in Lahore, uncovering details about the Anglo-Indian community that lived there before 1947.

(link to my article https://aliusmanbaig.blogspot.com/2023/06/lahores-timeless-charm-unveiling.html)

To my surprise, Rob Cranenburgh, currently residing in the UK, reached out to me, initiating a heartwarming conversation. His grandmother was an Anglo-Indian born in Lahore and baptized at Sacred Heart Cathedral School, adding a personal touch to Lahore's history.

"Hey Ali, I'm good thanks, and you? I found your feed to be very interesting! I’d love to visit Lahore," Rob shared, setting the stage for a delightful exchange.

His simple request held profound meaning: "The next time you are near the cathedral, I’d love it if you could take a picture for me. I will share it with my uncle; he is over 80, and I know he would love to see it." This small request became a bridge connecting our shared interests and heritage.

Rob's grandmother was born in 1918 in Lahore, she was baptized in the Sacred Heart Cathedral, a grand Catholic Cathedral. Rob recalled memories of a time when Lahore had a more significant Anglo-Indian population, a community that dwindled after the Independence of British India in 1947 and subsequent migrations in the 1950s and 60s.

Rob shared more about his family's connection to Lahore, highlighting his grandmother's mother, who ran a cafe in the city. Born in Lucknow, her mixed heritage added an intriguing layer to their family's narrative.

The conversation unfolded further, unveiling the story of Rob's great-grandfather, Charles James White, an Englishman in the British army. Tragically, he passed away when Rob's grandmother was still a child. After his death, Rob's grandmother and mother left Lahore, making a new home in Calcutta, where she eventually met Rob's grandfather.

I inquired about Rob's grandfather, whether he was a local or Anglo-Indian. The answer revealed, "Yes, also Anglo-Indian, but from an old Calcutta Anglo-Indian family dating back to the late 1700s. So my surname is of Dutch origin. My grandfather's ancestor, we believe, came out to India with the Dutch East India Company."

Rob's fascination with history became evident as he shared insights from conversations with older members of the Anglo-Indian community. The stories reflected a contrast in experiences between those in Pakistan, facing discrimination leading to migration post-partition, and those in India, departing more for economic reasons.

In the simplicity of our conversation, a tale of intertwined histories emerged. Rob Cranenburgh's connection to Lahore, though physically distant, speaks to the universal threads linking us to our roots. Through photographs and conversations, we became witnesses to a story spanning generations and continents, a testament to the enduring power of shared history. I later took pictures of Sacred Heart Cathedral School for Rob, and in 2023, he visited Lahore, standing where his grandmother was baptized—a way to show respect and gratitude to his ancestors.

"Lahore's Timeless Charm: Unveiling the Enchanting Tale of Victoria Park and its Bygone Anglo Indian Community"

2022

(All images copyright 2022 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

In the heart of Lahore, Punjab lies a historic junction known as Charing Cross at the intersection of Queens, Montgomery, and Mall roads. This area was originally part of a neighborhood called Donald Town, named after Sir Donald McLeod, the Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab from 1865 to 1870. 

In 1901, a magnificent white marble pavilion was constructed at Charing Cross to commemorate Queen Victoria's jubilee as the first Empress of India. This grand pavilion housed a splendid bronze statue of Queen Victoria, cast in London in 1900. The statue was placed in a beautiful garden that occupied the very spot where the majestic Punjab Assembly Hall stands today. The pavilion, along with the statue, became a cherished landmark and a symbol of honor until 1951.

Adjacent to the Punjab Assembly and Faletti's Mosque, one can find Queen Victoria Park, which serves as a reminder of Lahore's British colonial history. Stretching from Beadon Road to Cooper Road, the park encompasses the areas now occupied by the Indus Hotel and Panorama. It was once the prime locality and home to many Anglo-Indian families until the partition of India in 1947 and a few years later.

The Anglo-Indian community, characterized by their mixed Indian and British or European heritage, had a unique cultural identity influenced by both Indian and Western traditions. English was often their primary language, and they embraced Western customs while incorporating Indian elements into their lifestyles, such as Indian cuisine and music.

Victoria Park, with its charming houses and lawns, was a significant hub for the Anglo-Indian community. The atmosphere was filled with the melodies of saxophones and gramophones, and families enjoyed tea and conversations on the front lawns. The picturesque setting of Victoria Park evoked a sense of nostalgia and a feeling of being transported to a different place. Outside of Victoria Park, Mall Road in Lahore held a captivating allure, where open-air restaurants graced its path. The melodious strains of jazz gently filled the air, invoking a mesmerizing ambiance that beckoned couples to sway to its enchanting rhythm. Lahore, in its timeless elegance, unfolded a mosaic of unforgettable moments, weaving together music, dance, and the magic of the city's spirit.

Over the years, many Anglo-Indians made the difficult decision to leave India and Pakistan, seeking better prospects and security. The partition brought about political changes and religious tensions that left them uncertain about their place in the newly formed countries. Migration became a viable option, and countries like the United Kingdom, Australia, Canada, and other Commonwealth nations became destinations for their relocation.

Today, Victoria Park has undergone significant transformations. The tall shopping plazas and modern architectural structures have replaced the old buildings, and only a few balconies remain as reminders of its past. The Anglo-Indian community has dispersed across the globe, but the memories of their vibrant culture and the harmonious coexistence of diverse communities in Lahore linger on.

As, I wandered through the streets of Victoria Park and took photos, beholding those few remaining balconies, my mind was transported to a golden past. It was a time when diverse communities of different religions and cultures coexisted harmoniously in this city. The remnants of Victoria Park serve as a window to that era, where the spirit of unity prevailed amidst the architectural grandeur. Yet, the passage of time has cast its inevitable spell. As the concrete jungle expands, the vibrant tapestry of the past slowly fades away, leaving behind only echoes of a bygone era.