Jogian Sar and Amluk Dara Stupa

Elum Mountain, located in the Buner district, has held great significance for the Hindu community for centuries. Revered as a divine site and a place of pilgrimage, it is known as Jogian Sar among the locals and Ram Takhat (God's Throne) among Hindus. According to Hindu beliefs, Lord Ramchandra, the deity, spent time meditating on this mountain during his pilgrimage, known as binbas. As a religious practice, Hindus visit this sacred site every year in June, although the number of pilgrims has somewhat decreased in recent years.

The name Jogian Sar signifies the peak of the Jogis or Yogis, attributed to the presence of a few Hindu Sadhus (monks) who choose to meditate and reside on the mountain throughout the year. Atop this revered mountain, one can find the remains of ancient temples and a man-made pool carved entirely out of solid stone. This pool serves as a collection point for rainwater, considered holy by the Hindus.

A remarkable structure in the vicinity is the grand stupa of Amluk Dara, which, although now in ruins, still commands attention. Once standing as tall as the Pantheon in Rome, it is situated at the foot of Jogian Sar. This stupa was just one among many Buddhist structures in the kingdom of Udyāna, a prominent region along the Silk Road.

Amluk Dara lies on the route followed by Hindu devotees from lower Swat during their annual visit to the sacred peak of Mount Elum, which serves as a majestic backdrop to the stupa. Even during Buddhist times, the mountain's summit was a revered destination for pilgrims and may have been associated with legendary tales that have persisted to this day.

This area, owing to its strategic location connecting North India with Central Asia, has historically been of great importance. It often marked the borders of larger empires, with rulers from India unable to expand further north due to the mountainous terrain, while rulers from beyond the mountains faced challenges in extending their domains into the Indian plains. Notably, the renowned conqueror Alexander the Great waged significant battles in this region during his campaigns in Central Asia. His army marched east from the city he founded in Kapisa, known as Alexander on the Caucasus (Bagram), and fought numerous battles to gain control of the area. Some of these battles took place in the Swat valley, culminating in Alexander's successful siege of Aornos, an apparently impregnable mountain where locals had sought refuge. Identifying the precise location of this ancient battle has intrigued scholars for over a century, with Pir Sar and Mount Ilam being the most probable candidates.

Legend speaks of the Apalala, a serpent king residing in a high mountain lake in the Hindu Kush. Each year, the Apalala demanded a grain offering from the people residing in the Swat river valley, which flowed from the lake. When the people refused to make the offering, the Apalala flooded their lands as an act of revenge. Seeking help, the people turned to Buddha, who came to the valley, converted the Apalala, and left his footprint on a rock as a symbol of his visit. This footprint, now preserved in the local museum, serves as a reminder of Buddha's presence. The Swat River still floods, and for centuries, the valley remained a significant center of Buddhism. The choice of Amluk Dara and its central stupa was influenced by the landscape, with the fertile Swat valley portraying a picturesque setting with blooming flowers, lush hedges, and trees.

Scholars have highlighted the close connection between monasteries and the Indian concept of a garden, featuring pleasure groves and arbors. The establishment of monasteries often aimed to assimilate them into the cultural category of gardens. The selection of monastery sites considered the framing of views within the garden, which later travelers also noted. This careful selection of sacred spots added to the charm and allure of these places.

During its prime, news of Udyāna's Buddhist sites and temples spread along the Silk Road, carried by monks and merchants, with the mountain valley becoming part of the itinerary for pilgrim monks en route to India. The Chinese monk Faxian was among the first to record his visit to Udyāna around 403 AD. He stayed for several months, visiting the Buddha's footprint, the rock where Buddha dried his clothes, and the place where he converted the "wicked serpent." Faxian documented the presence of 400 Buddhist monasteries in the region.

The historical and religious significance of Elum Mountain, Jogian Sar, and the surrounding areas make them captivating destinations for pilgrims, scholars, and enthusiasts interested in exploring the cultural heritage and ancient wonders of the region.

Elum Mountain (Jogian Sar) in Background

Kunala Stupa Taxila

 29-03-2018

33°45'2.27"N,  72°49'50.49"E

MONASTERY VIEW 
Apart from its historical, religious, cultural and legendary background, in the last 2,000 years Taxila was also famous for eye treatment.

In fact officials with the Department of Archaeology and Museums (DOAM) believe that the Christ Hospital Taxila is continuation of that old historical legendary story narrated by folk tellers.

“The Stupa of Kunala sitting 100-feet high to the south-east of Takshasila city – Taxila’s ancient name – was where the blind would come to pray, and many had their prayers answered,” said an official of DOAM.

The official said Kunala was Emperor Ashoka’s beloved son, who was heir to the Mauryan empire. While he was supposed to be the future king, he was blinded by one of Ashoka's wives, Tishyaraksha, at a young age in jealousy, the official said.

The story of Kunala was related to this magnificent Stupa on the top of Sirkap city, founded by Greeks in 2nd century BC, the official said. “He was called Kunala because his eyes were small but beautiful. He was gifted with a sweet voice. But the jealous queen manoeuvred to order that his eyes be put out. A minister hesitated to execute the order.

“When the prince came to know about the royal order, he insisted on obedience to his father's command and a hot iron was put to his eyes.

He wandered with his wife far from his father’s kingdom,” the official narrated, adding that one day Ashoka recognised his son’s voice in his court. On learning his queen’s treachery, Ashoka ordered to put

her to death and Kunala was restored to the court.

According to DOAM official, Prince Kunala’s eyesight was restored by a famous surgeon who got his education in medicine in Taxila, then famous for training and knowledge of medicines, mathematics, grammar, archery, languages, and astronomy etc.

“Archaeological remains of Kunala's Stupa do not co-relate with the story. The masonry style of this Stupa belonged to 2nd century AD whereas Kunala was appointed in Taxila in 4th century BC,” the official said.

“How it was named as Kunala Stupa was not fully confirmed and needed deeper investigation and study.

But it is a fact that Taxila was known for the best eye treatment in those days,” he said, supporting his story with several antiquities found in Taxila, which were used for eye treatment.

Such surgical instruments were on display in Taxila Museum for public.

MONASTERY ROOMS FOR PILGRIMS AND STUDENTS

VIEW OF KHANPUR DAM

STUPA

MONASTERY

MONASTERY

MONASTERY

STUPA

MONASTERY

STAIRS TO REACH HILLTOP MONASTERY

A 20 MINUTES WALK FROM SIRKAPP TO KUNALA , KUNAL SITUATED ON THIS HILLTOP

MONASTERY

KHANPUR DAM MOUNTAINS

A 20 MINUTES WALK FROM SIRKAPP TO KUNALA , KUNAL SITUATED ON THIS HILLTOP

Bhamala Stupa

Largest ‘death of Buddha’ statue and first double halo statue found in Gandhara

29-03-2018

33°49'58.52"N

72°58'34.92"E

Bhamala Stupa is a ruined Buddhist stupa and National Heritage Site near Haripur, Pakistan. The Stupa is different from other stupas found in Gandhara. The ruins date back to the 4th century CE. The ruins are situated very near to the Khanpur Dam. The stupa is cross shaped and looks like an Aztec Pyramid. Bhamala stupa is an archaeological site and is also known as Bhamala Buddhist Complex.

Sir John Marshal first excavated the site in the late 1920s and early 1930s but The site was never studied in depth again. It is nominated at UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The nomination lead to the restoration of the ruins (mainly the Stupa). The site , as of June 2015, is under the control of Department of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Government of Pakistan. The site is believed to be one of the best preserved sites in the Taxila Valley

According to the current understandings, the shape of main stupa is cruciform and it is the biggest surviving example of this shape in Taxila and Gandhara region. There are about nineteen but small votive stupas in courtyard surrounding the main stupa

According to archaeologists this discovery is the largest statue ever found in Gandhara depicting the death of Buddha as well as a ‘double-halo’ Buddha statue, the first of its kind to have been found at the Bhamala Stupa site.

The rare discovery was made during excavations at the Buddhist stupa and monastery dating back to 4th century AD.

According to Dr Abdul Samad, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa director, Department of Archaeology and Museums,  this latest discoveries by the archaeologists have opened new chapters in the history of the ancient Taxila valley civilisation.

“This is one of the few sites in the world to have the cruciform Stupa which was reserved for Buddha himself.”

The death of the Buddha scene is known as ‘Maha Pari Nirvana’. The statue depicting the scene, measures 14 metres in length, and is the largest ever statue of its kind found in the archaeological history of Gandhara civilisation. The image is placed on a 15 metre long platform.

Buddha’s head is missing as the site appears to have been targeted by illegal treasure hunters.

“Other parts of the statue such as the left leg and arms were also found in a damaged condition,” he said.

Other images in terracotta have been found near the Par Nirvana scene. Pari Nirvana scene was exposed from a long chamber to the west of the main Stupa facing towards east. He added that access to this chamber is given through three openings at regular intervals. The chamber is made of stone in semi ashlars masonry. This statue of Buddha with double halos was unique and such a statue had never been found at this site. In the past statues, heads of Buddha statues and coins from the Kushan period had been found at the site.

“In the first leg of this excavation, archaeologists have opened a new chapter in the archaeological history of the Taxila valley. Through the recent discoveries, it has been confirmed that the site dates back to 3rd century CE. Recently discovered Buddha heads are made in baked soil which dates to the third century, rejecting archaeologist John Marshal’s claim from 1930 that the site was from 12th century CE.”

During this leg of excavations, other relics such as a carnelian seal depicting what appears to be the Gaja Lakshmi deity, one of the forms of Hindu goddess Ashta Lakshmi have been discovered. Other relics with Kashmiri influence have added new dimensions to what we know about these ancient civilizations. Several terracotta and stucco Buddha statues and copper coins were discovered at this site which date back to the Kidara-Kushan period (4 to 5 CE). This indicates that Bhamala was not isolated from main Taxila. Material found in Bhamala could improve our understanding of Buddhist culture, development and contact in this region.

The success of the Bhamala Stupa study would also encourage other archaeologists to come to Pakistan.

The Bhamala complex was different from other sites in Taxila valley.

The stupa, shaped like a cross, resembles Aztec Pyramids and such constructions had only been found in Kashmir, in the past. Main stupa was cruciform and there were about 19 small votive stupas in the courtyard surrounding the main stupa.

During the recent excavation, a total of 510 relics were discovered, which included terracotta, stucco sculptures as well as iron objects including nails, hooks, door fittings, hair clips, copper artifacts and 14 coins from the late Kushan period.

 main stupa i 

main stupa is cruciform 

Buddhist  monastery

 Buddhist  monastery

 double-halo’ Buddha statue, 

 main stupa is cruciform 

main stupa is cruciform 

main stupa is cruciform 

MONASTERY OF LAL JAS RAJ DEPALPUR

Situated in the northeastern part of the historic city of Depalpur, lies a hidden gem known as the monastery of Lal Jas Raj. This architectural marvel showcases a fusion of exquisite elements, including intricately decorated doors with latches, elegant jharokhas, captivating bay windows, and masterfully crafted cut brickwork. However, the most captivating aspect of this ancient site is the spiritual significance it holds for the local people, who venerate Lal Jas Raj as a revered guru.

Interestingly, our visit to this monastery was not originally part of our itinerary. In fact, we were completely unaware of its existence until our friend Adnan Tariq, a knowledgeable local resident of Depalpur, enlightened us about this remarkable place. Little did we know that we were about to discover a hidden treasure of historical and cultural significance.

The origins of Depalpur itself are shrouded in mystery and various theories surround its foundation. One account attributes its establishment to Raja Deva Pala, a figure about whom historical records provide scant information. Nevertheless, the antiquity of Depalpur is beyond doubt, as the ground level on which the present-day houses stand aligns seamlessly with the ramparts of the city's fort. The abundance of ancient coins found in this area further attests to Depalpur's existence as far back as the time of the Indo-Scythians. Historical records trace the mention of Depalpur to the military campaign of Muhammad bin Qasim in 714 AD when he advanced toward Kashmir after capturing Multan. However, the discovery of ancient coins suggests that the city had already thrived for centuries prior to this event.

According to an alternative source, Raja Dipa Chand, the founder of Depalpur, played a pivotal role in the establishment of the city. Lal Jas Raj, the monastery's namesake, was the beloved son of Raja Dipa Chand. Tragically, Lal Jas Raj met a fateful end, being swallowed by the earth due to a curse inflicted upon him by his stepmother, Rani Dholran. Overwhelmed by grief and in remembrance of his beloved son, Raja Dipa Chand erected this monastery as a testament to their bond. Today, the chamber within the monastery has fallen into disrepair, with jammed doors and a stairway repurposed for storage. The structure itself stands as a poignant symbol of the passage of time, its once-grand stature now succumbing to the ravages of nature.

Local residents fondly recall the grand annual "mela" (fair) that used to take place within the monastery's grounds. This festive gathering brought people together, fostering a sense of community and celebration. Additionally, the monastery served as a sacred site for Hindu devotees to perform the Sardukahr, a religious ceremony. However, since the partition, the influx of visitors has dwindled, and the monastery now stands in solitude, longing for the days when its halls echoed with laughter and devotion.

These captivating details and historical accounts are sourced from the esteemed Archaeological Survey of India, specifically from the 1872-73 report authored by Alexander Cunningham, the Director General of the organization. Through diligent research and exploration, these accounts shed light on the rich heritage and cultural significance that the monastery of Lal Jas Raj possesses.