Ali Usman Baig

Shahdara, a historic town located in the northern suburbs of Lahore, can be reached by crossing the river Ravi. In the 15th century, it served as the entrance gateway for the Lahore and Mughal emperors. The town is renowned for its Mughal architectural sites, picturesque Mughal gardens, and the Tomb of Jahangir, which houses the remains of the Mughal Emperor, his wife Empress Nur Jehan, and his brother-in-law Abdul Hasan Asaf Khan. With the construction of these historical monuments, Shahdara began to expand. Prior to the partition of 1947, it was home to a diverse community comprising individuals from various religions.

Within Shahdara, there exists a neighborhood named 'Pari Mohalla,' which still retains its identity from pre-partition times. Before the partition, the Khatri clan of the Hindu community resided in this neighborhood. A significant structure in 'Pari Mohalla' is the grand mansion that consists of 103 rooms, each with its own door and window. Atop the mansion's roofs, there were once statues of fairies, but over time, they fell due to strong winds or other unknown factors. Sadly, the original exterior of 'Pari Mahal' was not preserved, and much of its architectural embellishment has been lost under cement plaster.

During my visit, I had the opportunity to meet and interview several local elders from 'Pari Mohalla' to gather information about the neighborhood's history. One elder shared that before the partition, many families in the area were involved in the gold business in Hindustan (India). They constructed remarkable residential buildings adorned with elegant architectural elements. While I was able to write about various buildings and the remnants of Hindu temples in 'Pari Mohalla' and the surrounding street, I couldn't find much information specifically about 'Pari Mahal.' However, it is likely that the other small buildings and temples in the street were all part of 'Pari Mahal.'

A few years after my visit, I posted an article on Twitter about the 'Pari Mahal temple.' To my surprise, I received a message from Hemant, a historical enthusiast from India. He expressed his happiness upon learning that I had visited 'Pari Mahal' and shared that his father was born in 'Pari Mahal' of Shahdara before migrating to India in the 1950s. Hemant was kind enough to provide me with his father's email address, and we began corresponding. In our conversations, I felt a strong sense of familiarity, as if I were speaking with a relative or uncle. Hemant's father, SM Sarin, shared detailed historical information about the 'Pari Mahal' in his email, which sheds light on its exact history.

In his email, SM Sarin mentioned that his son, Hemant Sarin, had forwarded my blog on Shahdara to him and expressed his appreciation for the vivid description. SM Sarin explained that his father and grandfather were wealthy Khatri landlords who owned around two thousand acres of land in and around Shahdara, including orchards of Malta, wheat belts, and rice fields, extending into the Sheikhupura district. 'Pari Mahal' was constructed around 1920 as a gesture of gratitude ('Shukrana') to a deity. Prior to his birth, all previous infants in the family had died during childbirth, and his mother prayed for the survival of her future children. The mansion housed only SM Sarin's family and no one else until the partition. SM Sarin's ancestors also built a hundred smaller residences ('Kothries') on the periphery of 'Pari Mahal,' where the labor force known as "Kamas" lived. This was likely done for security purposes. Today, 'Pari Mahal' accommodates over a hundred migrant families.

SM Sarin elders used to recount stories of how "Maa di Daal" (a type of lentil) was ground in large quantities as a substitute for cement, as cement was not available during those times. Instead of big INTS, only small tiled Nanakshahi bricks were used for construction. There used to be a railway station named Kote Radha Kishan, and Radhe Shah was the real brother of SM Sarin's grandfather, Behari Shah. Although they were one big family, each had their own separate estates. During the British era, British troops were stationed in, Pari Mahal, for Chanmari purposes.

Addressing the notion of 'Pari Mahal' being haunted, SM Sarin clarified that there was no truth to such claims. After the partition, their family was allotted lands in Karnal District, India. SM Sarin also provided information about another prominent mansion in Shahdara called 'Kala Mahal,' which was owned by his father's stepbrothers and their father, Radhe Shah. The family had a close relationship, but their estates were separate. During the British era, British troops were stationed at 'Pari Mahal' for Chamari purposes.

SM Sarin expressed his gratitude for the trip down memory lane to his birthplace, Shahdara, and thanked me for providing a detailed account. He requested more information and photos of their ancestral home, as well as the bazaar of Shahdara town. He also mentioned the close ties between Shahdara's old and new residents, highlighting the warm receptions his family received during their visits to Lahore and the welcoming of Shahdara residents in his house in Delhi.

I am delighted to have connected with the actual residents of 'Pari Mahal,' who have now settled in various cities in India and are renowned as a family of lawyers.

"After sharing the pictures of SM Sarin's ancestral home with him, he sent me a heartfelt message expressing his gratitude and emotions. Here is his message:

"Hello, Usman Beta,

I have received the pictures you shared of our ancestral home, and I must say, they have evoked a flood of emotions within me. It feels as if I have traveled back in time, reliving the cherished memories associated with 'Pari Mahal.' I am deeply grateful to you for taking the effort to capture and share these images with me.

Looking at those photographs, I can't help but be overwhelmed by a sense of nostalgia. Every corner of the mansion holds a story, every wall whispers the voices of our ancestors. It brings back memories of the days when only our family resided in that grand mansion, standing tall as a symbol of our prosperity and togetherness. The sight of those hundred rooms, each with its own door and window, brings back vivid memories of my childhood.

I can still remember the prayers and hopes that went into the construction of 'Pari Mahal.' It was a testament to the strength of our family's bond, a grateful offering to the divine for the survival and well-being of our future generations.

Please convey my warm regards and blessings to your elders, and let them know how deeply touched I am by your kindness. I would also like to know more about you, your family, and your background. Thank you once again for bringing back the essence of 'Pari Mahal' into our lives.

With love and best wishes,

SM Sarin"