2022
(All images copyright 2022 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)
In the heart of Lahore, Punjab lies a historic junction known as Charing Cross at the intersection of Queens, Montgomery, and Mall roads. This area was originally part of a neighborhood called Donald Town, named after Sir Donald McLeod, the Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab from 1865 to 1870.
In 1901, a magnificent white marble pavilion was constructed at Charing Cross to commemorate Queen Victoria's jubilee as the first Empress of India. This grand pavilion housed a splendid bronze statue of Queen Victoria, cast in London in 1900. The statue was placed in a beautiful garden that occupied the very spot where the majestic Punjab Assembly Hall stands today. The pavilion, along with the statue, became a cherished landmark and a symbol of honor until 1951.
Adjacent to the Punjab Assembly and Faletti's Mosque, one can find Queen Victoria Park, which serves as a reminder of Lahore's British colonial history. Stretching from Beadon Road to Cooper Road, the park encompasses the areas now occupied by the Indus Hotel and Panorama. It was once the prime locality and home to many Anglo-Indian families until the partition of India in 1947 and a few years later.
The Anglo-Indian community, characterized by their mixed Indian and British or European heritage, had a unique cultural identity influenced by both Indian and Western traditions. English was often their primary language, and they embraced Western customs while incorporating Indian elements into their lifestyles, such as Indian cuisine and music.
Victoria Park, with its charming houses and lawns, was a significant hub for the Anglo-Indian community. The atmosphere was filled with the melodies of saxophones and gramophones, and families enjoyed tea and conversations on the front lawns. The picturesque setting of Victoria Park evoked a sense of nostalgia and a feeling of being transported to a different place. Outside of Victoria Park, Mall Road in Lahore held a captivating allure, where open-air restaurants graced its path. The melodious strains of jazz gently filled the air, invoking a mesmerizing ambiance that beckoned couples to sway to its enchanting rhythm. Lahore, in its timeless elegance, unfolded a mosaic of unforgettable moments, weaving together music, dance, and the magic of the city's spirit.
Over the years, many Anglo-Indians made the difficult decision to leave India and Pakistan, seeking better prospects and security. The partition brought about political changes and religious tensions that left them uncertain about their place in the newly formed countries. Migration became a viable option, and countries like the United Kingdom, Australia, Canada, and other Commonwealth nations became destinations for their relocation.
Today, Victoria Park has undergone significant transformations. The tall shopping plazas and modern architectural structures have replaced the old buildings, and only a few balconies remain as reminders of its past. The Anglo-Indian community has dispersed across the globe, but the memories of their vibrant culture and the harmonious coexistence of diverse communities in Lahore linger on.
As, I wandered through the streets of Victoria Park and took photos, beholding those few remaining balconies, my mind was transported to a golden past. It was a time when diverse communities of different religions and cultures coexisted harmoniously in this city. The remnants of Victoria Park serve as a window to that era, where the spirit of unity prevailed amidst the architectural grandeur. Yet, the passage of time has cast its inevitable spell. As the concrete jungle expands, the vibrant tapestry of the past slowly fades away, leaving behind only echoes of a bygone era.
