Ali Usman Baig

Date of visit: 17th June 2018

The Ancient Mughal Era Bahmanwali/Chak 46 bridge

Saifur Rehman Dar, one of the most renowned archaeologists from Pakistan, has left an indelible mark on the field of archaeology with his significant contributions. In his seminal article, "Caravanserais along the Grand Trunk in Pakistan," Dar sheds light on the ancient origins of the Grand Trunk Road, a historic highway that stretches across several Indian states, from Calcutta to Peshawar, with a history dating back approximately 2500 years.

In his survey conducted from 1987 to 1989, Sir Saifur Rehman Dar meticulously documented the remnants that still existed along the Grand Trunk Road. In his survey, he highlighted:-

“The Sheranwala Gate replaced the Khizri Gate that once stood in the Walled City of Lahore. The Mughal King Akbar built the Khizri Gate as one of the thirteen gates along with a fortified wall. Today, only six gates remain, and the Sheranwala Gate, also known as the Khizri Gate, the gate was located near the flowing Ravi River, hence the name Khizri. Boats used to dock near the gate, allowing people from Lahore to travel across the Ravi River to the beautiful Shahdara area. At Shahdara, the best preserved Sarais in all of Pakistan. Originally built during the Suri period as its mosque still testifies, the present edifice with its three magnificent gateways dates back to Shah Jahan's period. As it was sandwiched between two great monuments, the Mausoleum-Garden of Jahangir and the Mausoleum-Garden of Asif Khan. Continuing the journey, the road passes through Rana Town, where two Baolis once added to the scenic beauty until they were unfortunately filled in later. The route then leads to Bahmanwali/Chak 46, where a crossing over the Nullah Deg is marked by an ancient bridge and the remnants of a Sarai.”

Throughout history, the significance of Deg Nullah has endured and continues to hold importance even today. The origins of the Degh River can be traced back to the hills near Jammu, and its course takes it past Sialkot until it joins the Ravi River south of Lahore. The major tributaries of river Ravi: Ujh, Bein, Basantar, Deg, and Hudiara. Among these tributaries, Deg Nullah stands out as the largest, stretching across an impressive length of 256 km and encompassing a catchment area of 730 km².

Of notable historical significance, the ancient bridge at Bahmanwali/Chak 46 is believed to have been constructed during Emperor Jahangir's reign, making it approximately 400 years old. Alongside the Bahmanwali/Chak 46 bridge, there are three additional Mughal-era bridges constructed on the Degh River. These bridges can be found at Kot Pindi Das, situated 13 kilometers south, and at Javed Town in Choti Degh. Furthermore, another notable structure is a two-story Mughal-era bridge located near Tapiala Dost Muhammad.

The archaic Mughal-era bridge, spanning an impressive 250 feet, boasts three stately arches and is fortified by embankments at both ends. With an approximate width of 18 feet, the bridge is adorned with protective walls, serving as a testament to the architectural finesse of the time. Shah Jahan, a prominent Mughal emperor, expanded the boundaries of the empire to the western regions, stretching beyond the Khyber Pass towards Ghazna and Kandahar. To ensure the efficient transportation of supplies and swift communication for military forces, the Grand Trunk Road played a pivotal role in the bygone era. Situated on this renowned thoroughfare were the Mughal-era bridges that spanned the mighty Degh Nullah, standing as prominent landmarks along the route.

In 2018, following a visit to the site of Sarai Pukhta, as mentioned in the Dar survey, our journey led us to a mound located at the precipice of the Degh Nullah, specifically at Chak 46.

In ancient times, if we move towards the northwest of the Ravi River, there was another river called Bagh Bacha. It was a tributary of the Ravi River, and it might have originated from Degh. The area between these two rivers is quite interesting because it is filled with many old mounds including the impressive Bagh Bacha metropolises.

Moving to the northwest of the river Ravi, in the ancient past, the Bagh Bacha River, a tributary of the Ravi which could also originate from Degh, used to flow. Notably, the land situated between these two converging rivers is adorned with numerous ancient mounds, including the remarkable Bagh Bacha metropolises.

Continuing the journey along the Grand Trunk Road, one encounters more captivating sites. Sarai Shaikhan, also known as Pukhta Sarai, features a splendid, paneled gateway and an ancient well in ruinous condition. The road leads further to Tapiala Dost Muhammad, passing through Kot Bashir, where remnants of a Chhaoni site and a baoli whisper stories of the past. Dera Kharaba, with its own baoli, adds to the allure of the journey. Tapiala Dost Muhammad, with its commanding mausoleum, sets the stage for exploration towards Pull Shah Daula. An ancient bridge over the Nallah Deg, along with the striking monuments at Baba Jamna, bears witness to the historical significance of this route.

Through the meticulous research and documentation carried out by Saifur Rehman Dar, the rich historical heritage of the Grand Trunk Road and its surrounding areas is brought to light, offering valuable insights into the ancient civilizations and their remarkable architectural achievements.