The Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi

Visit Date:-11-10-2012

Location of Site:- N 34 19 15,E 71 56 45

Takht-i-Bhai, Mardan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

All Pictures are  owned

Brief Synthesis

The Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi and Neighbouring City Remains at Sahr-i-Bahlol are one of the most imposing relics of Buddhism in the Gandhara region of Pakistan. The inscribed property is composed of two distinct components both dating from the same era.

The Buddhist Ruins of Takhi-i-Bahi (Throne of Origins) are a monastic complex, founded in the early 1st century A.D., and are spectacularly positioned on various hilltops ranging from 36.6 meters to 152.4 meters in height, typical for Buddhist sites. The complexes cover an area of around 33ha.

The Buddhist monastery was in continual use until the 7th century AD. It is composed of an assemblage of buildings and is the most complete Buddhist monastery in Pakistan. The buildings were constructed of stone in Gandhara patterns (diaper style) using locally dressed and semi-dressed stone blocks set in lime and mud mortar.

Today the ruins comprise a main stupa court, votive stupa court, a group of three stupas, the monastic quadrangle with meditation cells, a conference hall, covered stepped passageways, and other secular buildings.

The Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi in their setting, architectural form, design, and construction techniques are the most characteristic examples of the development of monastic and urban communities in the Gandharan region between the 1st to 7th century AD.

Integrity

Due to the location of on the Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi on high hills, they escaped successive invasions and are exceptionally well preserved.

The boundaries of the ancient fortified city of Sahr-i-Bahlol are well defined with part of the fortification walls still intact although in deteriorated condition. The site is increasingly threatened by encroachments, although the growth of settlements occurred already before 1911 when they were declared protected monuments under the Ancient Monuments Preservation Act. Houses have been built directly on top of the ancient ruins and only remnants of the perimeter wall survive. The present boundaries of the property are considered inadequate due to the increasing urbanization.

The inscribed property is also threatened by several other factors including uncontrolled vegetation resulting in one of the main causes of decay, inadequate drainage, and lack of security to prevent unauthorized animal and human encroachment and illegal digging. Pollution from local factories and vehicular traffic is also a serious threat adding to the deterioration of the site.

Authenticity

The Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi have a high authentic setting as it continues to occupy their original hilltop location. The authenticity of form and design has been preserved and the layout of the monastic complex and buildings are visible. The authenticity of materials as well as traditions and techniques of construction is retained in the stone construction in Gandhara patterns (diaper style). The stone sculptures were removed to the Peshawar Museum and the stone inscription of the Gondophares is preserved in the Lahore Museum.

The neighboring ancient city remains at Sahr-i-Bahlol are endangered by urban expansion. The original sculptures from the site have been removed and are housed in the Peshawar Museum. The Management Plan notes the lack of documentation and the lack of a skilled workforce of artisans trained in the traditional techniques of diaper patterns.

Protection and management requirements

Both component parts of the Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi and Neighbouring City Remains at Sahr-i-Bahlol were identified as protected monuments under the Ancient Preservation Act (1904) and subsequently under the Antiquity Act (1975) of the Federal Government of Pakistan. Proposals are under consideration to amend and strengthen the Antiquities Act. The Takht-i-Bahi ruins are owned by the federal Department of Archaeology, and the Sahr-i-Bahlol ruins are private property, owned by the local Khans. The government has established a Sub Regional Office with appropriate professional, technical, and watch ward staff and has allocated financial resources through an annual budget. As well a public sector development program is provided to maintain and preserve the site through regular and rigorous repair and conservation programs. Management responsibilities lie with the Provincial Department of Archaeology (Province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa) situated in Peshawar. A Master Plan for the Buddhist Ruins of Takht-i-Bahi and Neighbouring City Remains at Sahr-i-Bahlol was prepared in 2011. Intended as a working document for site custodians, it is also designed to provide a detailed holistic framework for the conservation of the inscribed property and sets out principles for management using a prioritized plan of action covering several areas of concern from site conservation to visitor management. The threat of urbanization identified above indicates that the boundaries of the property are inadequate. As a result, a revision of the property boundaries is being seriously considered along to acquire the land around the site and create a larger buffer zone. To control urbanization, the entire mountain area of 445 hectares was recently declared the “Archaeological Reserve” by the provincial government of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. There remains a need for more adequate documentation of the remains and for enhanced capacity building for craftsmen in traditional building techniques.

 Information Board About Site

 RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILL (SITE-1)

OTHER RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILL (SITE-2)

ANOTHER RUIN OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON THE HILLTOP(SITE-3)

    RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILLTOP(SITE-1,2&3)

RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILLTOP(SITE-1,2&3)

                        RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILLTOP(SITE-3)
       LARGE DIAPER MASONRY WALL CONSTRUCTION OF 2ND TO 3RD A, D PERIOD

  RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILLTOP(SITE-2)EXCAVATIONS ARE STILL IN PROCESS

 MEDITATION CELLS ALSO CALLED VIHARAS WHERE BUDDHIST MONKS ABODE

 ON THE LEFT SIDE  MEDITATION CELLS ALSO CALLED VIHARAS WHERE BUDDHIST MONKS ABODE ON THE EXTREME RIGHT THE WALLS ARE OF A CONFERENCE ROOM 

 RUINS OF MEDITATION CELLS, SEMI ASHLAR & DIAPER MASONRY  2ND TO 6TH A.D      PERIOD OBSERVED 

MONKS HOUSES ALSO NAMED VIAHARAS, SEMI ASHLAR & DIAPER MASONRY  2ND TO 6TH A.D   PERIOD

 MONKS HOUSES ALSO NAMED VIAHARAS, SEMI ASHLAR & DIAPER MASONRY  2ND TO 6TH A.D   PERIOD

 MONKS HOUSES ALSO NAMED VIAHARAS, SEMI ASHLAR & DIAPER MASONRY  2ND TO 6TH A.D   PERIOD

 RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILL (SITE-2)

 STANDING IN FRONT OF MEDITATION CELLS

 MONKS RESIDENCE PLACE 

 MEDITATION CELLS  IN THE BACKGROUND

 MEDITATION CELLS  IN THE BACKGROUND, VORTEX STUPAS 

   VORTEX STUPA AND BUDDHIST COURT AND MEDITATION CELLS  IN BACKGROUND

  VORTEX STUPA AND BUDDHIST COURT AND MEDITATION CELLS  IN BACKGROUND

 MEDITATION CELLS 

  VORTEX STUPA AND BUDDHIST COURT AND MEDITATION CELLS  IN BACKGROUND

 VORTEX STUPA AND BUDDHIST COURT AND MEDITATION CELLS  IN BACKGROUND

  VORTEX STUPA AND BUDDHIST COURT AND MEDITATION CELLS  IN BACKGROUND

 CONFERENCE ROOM

 MEDITATION CELLS 

 MEDITATION CELLS 

 MEDITATION CELLS FOR MONKS 

 UNDERGROUND MEDITATION CELLS 

 THREE STUPA COURT 

 THREE STUPA COURT

 THREE STUPA COURT

   RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILLTOP (SITE-3)

 ANOTHER VIEW OF THE INSIDE OF MEDITATION CELLS 

 ENTRANCE  TO MONASTERY 

 MEDITATION CELLS 

 ANOTHER VIEW 

 THREE STUPA COURT

 THREE STUPA COURT

 THREE STUPA COURT

 THREE STUPA COURT

 CONFERENCE ROOM 

 MONASTIC QUADRANGLE 

  MONASTIC QUADRANGLE, LARGE DIAPER MASONRY 2ND TO 3RD A.D 

 LIVING QUARTERS OF MONKS 

   MONASTIC QUADRANGLE, LARGE DIAPER MASONRY 2ND TO 3RD A.D 

 LIVING QUARTERS OF MONKS 

 VORTEX STUPA

         MONASTIC QUADRANGLE, LARGE DIAPER MASONRY 2ND TO 3RD A.D 

 CONFERENCE ROOM 

 CONFERENCE ROOM 

 RUINS 

 RUINS OF MONASTERIES SPREAD ON HILLTOP (SITE-5)

 RAIN WATER DRAIN

The Forgotten Mahan Singh Garden and his Samadhi in Lahore

22-04-2018

Samadhi

One of the cherished memories from my childhood is the sight of an old structure standing proudly between Naz Cinema and St. John Church as I crossed Mission Road in Lahore. During that time, some of our relatives resided near Civil Lines College in Lahore, and whenever we visited them, we would hire a Tonga from Lahore Railway Station. The usual route would take us through Lakshami Chowk, and occasionally Tonga would turn from Mission Road into Bansaanwala Bazaar, Shah Alam, until finally reaching our last stop, Daata Sahib. It was during these journeys, approximately thirty years ago, that I first became acquainted with this intriguing edifice.

As a child, I couldn't discern the difference between a 'Samadhi' and a 'Mandir.' Whenever I inquired about this particular structure from my father, he would always refer to it as a 'Mandir' and explain that this area was once inhabited by a thriving Hindu community before the Partition of 1947.

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit this edifice. I discovered that it is, in fact, a 'Samadhi' dedicated to Mahan Singh. Situated within the housing quarters of St. John Church, the area encompassing St. John Church and Naz Cinema is also known as "Mahan Singh ka Bagh" (Mahan Singh's Garden).

Although not much historical information is available about Mahan Singh, it is believed that he was an esteemed courtier during the reign of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh. The Maharaja granted him this land as a token of appreciation. When examining historical records, the only name that matches that of Mahan Singh during Maharaja Ranjeet Singh's era is that of Sardar Raja Mahan Singh Mirpuri (d. 1844). Sardar Raja Mahan Singh Mirpuri was a renowned general in the Sikh Khalsa Army and served as the second-in-command to General Sardar Hari Singh Nalwa. He earned the title of Raja from Maharaja Ranjit Singh for his conquests in Haripur, Nowshehra, and Peshawar. The town of Mansehra derives its name from him. During a hunting expedition of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in Lahore, Mahan Singh, who was in search of employment at the time, caught the Maharaja's attention by single-handedly slaying a leopard with his sword. Impressed by his bravery, the Maharaja enlisted him into the army under the renowned General Hari Singh Nalwa.

Mahan Singh played a pivotal role in the battles of Peshawar and Kashmir. He also showed remarkable courage during the siege of Multan in 1818, where he was seriously wounded on two occasions. Eventually, he rose to become the second-in-command to Hari Singh Nalwa. In April 1837, he valiantly defended the Jamrud Fort against Afghan invaders, even concealing the news of Hari Singh Nalwa's demise until reinforcements arrived from Lahore.

Following the death of Hari Singh Nalwa, Mai Desan, his widow adopted Mahan Singh as her son and arranged his marriage into a Mohan family from Gujranwala, following Muhiyal traditions. Tragically, Sardar Raja Mahan Singh met his untimely demise in 1844 when mutiny erupted within the Sikh Khalsa Army, and he was murdered by his own soldiers.

Regrettably, the Samadhi is currently in a state of disrepair and is being used for storage purposes. Nonetheless, traces of fresco artwork can still be observed within the premises. The approximate coordinates of this site are 31°34'4.62"N, 74°19'13.55"E

Another view of Samadhi

Inside View of Samadhi

Inside View of Samadhi

Inside Roof 

 Another View of Samadhi

This place  was used to be Mahan Singh Garden

 This place used to be Mahan Singh Garden

Google Earth Location View

BURJ MALKA HANS

06-04-2018

It is square burnt brick burj (bastion) supported with mud bricks. A staircase is located on north side. It is located outside the village of Malka Hans in fields. The burj seems to be part of fort boundary wall, with passage of time bricks from walls taken for construction of houses in nearby villages. 

No, history has been found about this structure. The old villagers told it is standing in fields for centuries. Also it is told some paranormal activities have been observed near this edifice. That’s the only reason which saved it  from destruction.

Special thanks to Pakistan Archaeological department who have documented this place. However, I wish they have done some effort to preserve this place as well. 

Nawab Raza Ali Khan and his Red Bungalow in Lahore

22-04-18

Fateh Ali Khan, a Kazilbash Nawab, led the distinguished Turkish family of the Kazilbash tribe, which initially migrated from the western Caspian coast (now part of Russian territories) alongside Nadir Shah, the renowned invader of India. They settled in Kabul, wielding significant influence and authority while holding hereditary estates.

Several family members, while under their Eastern Master, provided invaluable assistance to the government during the First Afghan Campaign.

In 1839, during the British Army's initial entry into Kabul, Ali Raza Khan, an ancestor of the current Nawab, rendered invaluable services to the government, particularly in the realm of commissariat supply. Later, in 1857, he made substantial sacrifices while raising a substantial force. In recognition of these deeds, he was granted a talukdari comprising 147 villages, yielding an annual income of around Rs. 15,000. In 1864, he was bestowed with the hereditary title of Nawab and settled in Lahore.

The present bungalow is believed to have been constructed by Nawab Ali Raza Khan. Its approximate location is 31°34'6.35"N 74°20'4.06"E.

 Front Elevation

 Arches

Side Elevation 

The Hidden Mosque of Saleh Sindhi of 17TH Century

22-04-2018

(All pictures are taken by me, please respect copyright)

Saleh Sindhi Mosque is hidden on the premises of a private property on Shahrah-e-Bin Badis (earlier Empress Road). As you proceed north on the road, just past the St. Anthony's (Don Bosco) Church and across from the Pakistan Railway Headquarters, you will find a gate on your left into a large compound known as Nawab Palace, belonging to Lahore's well known Nawab Qizilbash family.

Side Elevation

From the main road you will not be able to view this 17th century Shahjahani mosque, since it lies hidden behind foliage at the rear of the interesting British-period brick mansion. Since it is private property, you will need permission to enter the grounds and then ask to view the ancient mosque. The caretakers are normally very cooperative and will accompany you to the rear of the sprawling compound.

Side Elevation

The mosque is impressive in its pristine purity of whitewashed surfaces. No evidence of any decoration is visible today in this single-aisle 3-bay mosque. The original simple cusped arches leading into the prayer chamber today carry modern-day doors to secure the mosque. Even so, there is no major intervention or tampering visible in the historic structure, except in the use of plaster in the lower part of walls in a vain attempt to arrest the rising damp. This mosque appears to be one of the few Mughal mosques which have not suffered large-scale renovation/restoration. Thus, it is invaluable for the study of original mosque structures of the period. The usual 3-dome arrangement, with a larger dome in the middle flanked by two smaller domes, all topped by pinnacles is graceful in its execution. The courtyard, no longer very large, has been redone and the brick flooring mentioned by Latif is no longer extant. Kanhaiya Lal believes that the mosque once existed in the midst of a large garden.

View from Adjacent Street

Front Elevation

Historian Latif credits Muhammed Saleh Sindhi, with the construction of the mosque. Muhammed Saleh, a wealthy amir (noble) at the royal court, was appointed diwan by the governor of Lahore during Emperor Shah Jahan's reign. Saleh was a nephew of Haji Sewai, after whom the area was once known as Mohallah Sewai. As was the fate of many Muslim historic structures, this mosque too did duty as an arsenal and powder magazine during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. However, luckily, it escaped large-scale damage, and after annexation by the British was repaired by Nawab Ali Raza Khan Qizilbash and became a part of his large estate.

Google Earth Imagery