Fatmal Marrhi of Kanganpur (2021)

 

Date of visit: 31 January 2021

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Elevation of Edifice and double story elegant gateway

 

Elevation of Samadhi from the second floor of two story gateway

A tall edifice by the name of Fatmal Marrhi with elegant double story entrance gateway standing 200m south of the village of the same name, 1 km north-west of village Patuke, 500 meters south of an abandoned canal khanwala branch, 3.5 km north-west of Kanganpur (Rasool pur).

District: - Kasur

Tehsil: - Chunian

Mauza/Khasra: Fatmal

 

Description of Architectural Elements of Structure: -

 

Plan, Ground, and above: -

Octagonal melon-shaped ribbed dome.

 

External Description: - 

 

Main Entrance. facade and other sides

The Fatmal Marrhi is constructed on a 1m high square platform measuring 16 x16m. A double story gateway has been constructed on the eastern side of the platform. The main entrance has been provided through a cusped arched opening within an architrave surmounted by archivolt and flanked by octagonal bastions. The upper story consists of three pavilions, one each on bastions and one above the entrance structure. The arcuate (bent in the forms of the bow) bastion pavilions are crowned with ribbed cupolas and eaves above the entablatures, while the central pavilion has three arched openings on the eastern side and one each on the remaining three sides. The top is provided by a curved eave followed by a sail (passage vault). Access to the upper pavilion has been provided through open stairways located on the southern and western sides. The entrance arch spandrels and curvature below the eaves are decorated with fresco design. 

 

The main structure of the Marrhi is octagonal in plan. From the outside, it looks like a double story building due to a continuous projected hand above the large arched panels. Each side of the octagon has a large rectangular recessed frame having a multicusped blind arch resting on pilasters and another recessed rectangular frame inside the blind arch. Four entrances have been provided from four rectangular frames within blind arches. The larger frames are flanked with small niches on each side. The portion above the projected band has a pilaster on each corner. The side of the octagon is decorated with false aches in the form of a projection niche in the middle and two holes on the side. The top of the wall has an eave following the octagon. Parapet has a series of pinnacles on it. The melon-shaped dome has been from a circular drum. Finial of the dome is missing.

 

Decoration and Inscriptions: -

 

The Fatmal Marri has been lavishly decorated with colorful fresco paintings on the spandrels of the multicusped blind arches which have been decorated in arabesque style. Space on both sides of these arches has frames decorated with the designs of flowers and the frames above the arches depict battle scenes of war and recreational activities such as dancing, musical festivities, and hunting. The pendentive is also decorated with such scenes and floral design. 

Fresco Painting image 1

Fresco Painting image 2

Fresco Paiting image 3

Image taken from inside the Samadhi

Fresco Paiting 

Fresco Paiting

The edifice has doors provided at all four corners, destroyed by vandalism 

It seems that fire is used inside the edifice

most of the fresco paintings destroyed 

Fresco painting 

Fresco Paiting

Floral Paiting 

Floral painting

floral painting

Floral Painting

View from Inside Samadhi

Floral Painting

 

Interior Descriptions:

 

Roof/Dome(s)

The ceiling of the central pavilion is decorated with fresco paintings depicting the floral design. Murals depicting human figures and other scenes are the portion above the arches. The cupolas on the gateway bastion are also decorated with sunflower motifs. The dome had floral decoration, most of which has faded away with time.

View of two story entrance gate way

Entrance gateway

View of Main Building

Roof view Mural paintings

 

Well, /Pond: A water well and the pond is found south of the gateway.

 

On the wall of the well, a commemorative plaque is present but could not be able to read it. 

 

Escape Tunnel: - Beneath the main edifice an escape tunnel is present. It ends 300 meters south of the complex. With the time it collapsed, we could not investigate it personally. 

 

Period and Current Condition: -

 

There is an inscription writing found over the main entrance arched gateway but not in a condition of decipherability. Unfortunately, locals who live in close villages belong to migratory families who settled here after the India partition of 1947. They do not know anything about the history of this place. Hence exact period and year this place is constructed are unknown. 

From building architecture, it looks it belongs to the late eighteenth century. 

Like many other historical structures, the Fatmal Marrhi is also being near to vanish because of vandalism, neglect of relevant departments, and time to time diggings by treasure hunters. 

 

 

Pond 

Well

 

IN MEMORY OF LALA MELA RAM– A FAMOUS HINDU FROM LAHORE (2021)

In honor of Lala Mela Ram, a prominent Hindu figure from Lahore, several significant contributions and legacies mark his memory. One notable contribution is his donation to the establishment of Lahore Zoo. In the 1860s, the zoo began as a menagerie and later transformed into a proper zoo with the addition of an aviary, generously donated by Lala Mela Ram in 1872. Even today, a commemorative plaque stands in Lahore Zoo, serving as a testament to his generosity. The plaque features inscriptions in English, Urdu, and Hindi, with the English inscription stating,

“This Aviary was presented to the municipal committee of Lahore By Lalla Mela Ram. March 1872”

Lala Mela Ram's impact extended beyond the zoo. The area where Charing Cross now stands on Mall Road, Lahore, once housed the Mela Ram Building, which contained numerous shops. However, in the early 1960s, the building was demolished, and the WAPDA House was constructed in its place. This significant structure measured 21 Kanal, 5 marlas, and 190 square feet, including both buildings and open and vacant sites spanning 3 kanal and 2 marlas. Notably, the area encompassing the PTCL Building today was also part of Mela Ram's property.

Within Bhati Gate, Mohallah Shish Mahal, Rai Bahadur Mela Ram resided in a grand Haveli, which unfortunately no longer exists. This Haveli was a spectacle within Bhati Gate, showcasing the splendor and elegance of the era. Both Rai Bahadur Mela Ram and his son, Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass, were followers of the "Sanatam Dharm" and commanded immense respect within the community. Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass, known for his patronage of the arts, celebrated Hindu, Muslim, and Sikh festivals with great fervor at his residence.

The contributions of Rai Bahadur Mela Ram and Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass extended beyond their personal endeavors. In the late nineteenth century, when Lahore was connected to Amritsar by rail, the Lahore Railway Station was built by notable contractors, including Mian Sultan of Landa Bazar, Mian Muhammad Bakhsh Dol Gar of Mochi Gate, and Rai Bahadur Mela Ram. The father and son duo held celebrations for various festivals, inviting individuals from diverse backgrounds. These gatherings were known for their musical soirees, with attendees including esteemed figures such as Allama Iqbal, Sir Abdul Qadir, Sir Shahabud Din, Mian Sirajud Din, Raja Narindranath, Raja Sir Days Kishan Kaul, Nawab Liaqat Hayat Khan, Nawab Ahmed Yar Khan Daultana, Sikandar Hayat Khan, Mian Muhammad Nasirud Din, Khan Bahadur Suyed Maratab Ali, Sardar Sundar Singh Majitjia, and Sardar Joginder Singh.

To honor Lala Mela Ram's memory, a road in Lahore was named Mela Ram Road. This road was home to Mela Ram Textile Mill, although the mill no longer exists today. Additionally, the present-day Lahore Zoo, originally known as Chirya Ghar, also holds a connection to Lala Mela Ram, as the land on which it stands was donated by him in the late nineteenth century. Thus, Lala Mela Ram's contributions have left an indelible mark on Lahore's landscape and continue to be remembered through various landmarks and institutions bearing his name.

Mandi Ahamd abad and the two Twin Hindu Temples (2021)

 

Date of Visit:- 31-01-2021

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Temples and Devotee's Hall, All doors and windows are still intact

My dear historian friend, Adnan from Depalpur, had been urging me to visit Mandi Ahmadabad for some time now.

Located in District Okara, within Tehsil Depalpur, Mandi Ahmadabad is a town situated eight kilometers from the India/Pakistan international border and 140 kilometers from Lahore. It is positioned near the Bambanwala-Ravi-Bedian Canal (BRB Canal), which branches off from the upper Chenab canal near Bambanwala village. The BRB Canal runs southeast, close to the India-Pakistan border, and then proceeds south, parallel to the border, passing through Mandi Ahmadabad and ending near Basirpur. Additionally, the River Sutlej flows about four kilometers southeast of this town.

Originally known as Mandi Hira Singh, this town was renamed in 1993 by the Government of Punjab in honor of Mirza Ahmad Baig, a well-known local politician.

Adnan informed me about two pre-partition Hindu temples that still exist in this town. These temples are easily visible from outside the town and appear identical from a distance. They are situated within the premises of the Government Higher Secondary School for Boys in Mandi Ahmadabad.

During my visit, I was hosted by Rafi Sehrai Sahib, a schoolteacher by profession and a renowned Punjabi poet. He shared with us that before the partition of 1947, a considerable number of Hindu and Sikh families lived in Mandi Ahmadabad. The school building, which now houses the temples, was a large Hindu temple complex at that time.

The architectural style of these temples is not significantly different from similar structures found elsewhere in Pakistan. The temples predominantly follow the Nagara style, which originated in northern India.

Both temples consist of a raised square sanctum, designed to house the deity's statue. The interior of the temple features a hyperbolic roof, with embrasures on each wall to allow natural light to enter.

Above the square sanctum, the main temple spire (also known as a shikhara) is constructed. It is worth noting that although the two temples may appear similar from a distance, their spire designs differ. The spire consists of three parts.

Temple 1:

The first part is a square platform with design projections on all four sides.

Above it, the second part is raised, also square in design, but with different styles of wall, projections compared to the first part. The third part, situated above the second part, is square at the bottom and merges into a curvilinear top. This temple is an example of a "homogenous" shikhara, featuring four faces of similar design and pattern, with all elements smoothly curving up the face.

Temple 2:

The first part is a square platform with design projections on all four sides. The second part is circular in construction, with wall projections along the circumference. The third part of the tower is also circular.

It is believed that the difference in the design of these two temples might be due to the fact that they housed deities of different genders. These two temples are taller than any others I have seen in Pakistan.

Surrounding these temples is a hall measuring 40 x 64 feet, which was used by devotees. The hall also contains a mezzanine floor where female visitors used to sit.

Unlike many other Hindu buildings in Pakistan, the temples in Ahmadabad are well-preserved by the school authorities. The original wooden doors and windows of the building can still be seen.

These temples were constructed around the year 1945.

In my quest for historical references about Hira Singh, the man after whom this town was originally named, I found limited information. My host, Rafi Sahib, informed me that Hira Singh was a Sikh chieftain of the area who had given his land to the British for the construction of a railway line, which led to the town being named after him.

 

Sanctum, room for placing Diety

A cabinet where diety was placed

Hall for Devotee, Mezzanine floor is visible 

Space between two temples sanctum

Two Sanctum view from Hall of devotees now used as class room 

Another view of Hall of Devotee

Standing with my host Rafi Seherai Sehab

 

 

 

 

From village Hado Sahari (2021)

31-01-2021 

When India was partitioned into two separate states in August 1947, the border between Hindu-majority India and Muslim-majority Pakistan was kept secret until the very last minute. Punjab was split down the middle and many people did not if they would be living in Pakistan or India. The decision of the man drawing the line was not just an administrative formality, it was a matter of life and death. One million died and 15 million were displaced as Muslims fled to Pakistan, and Hindus and Sikhs headed in the opposite direction. 

If you travel along Raiwind to Kasur railway line, you will find most of the villages named after Sikh's. One can still find several Sikh religious and residential buildings in these villages. But after the 1947 partition of India, not a single Sikh or Hindu was left behind in these villages. 

I am standing at Roshan Bhila near Hado sehari village in Kasur district, before the partition, the majority here were Sikh Jatt from the Virik clan. There is one gurdwara remains also present in this village. But no Sikh family was left behind after the partition. In fact, the whole village got butchered. This railway line played an important role during the partition of 1947 for relocating thousands of migrants from both sides of the border.

Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) of Kot Diji (2020)

 

Date of Visit: - 23^rd February 2020 (R)

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Outer Elevation of Building

When it comes to Sheesh Mahal, one thinks about the 'Mirror Palace,' which is present inside the Lahore Fort its construction was ordered by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1631 and completed in the year 1632. However, another building with a similar name is present in Pakistan at Kot Diji in the province of Sindh. Its construction is attributed to Mir Fateh Ali Khan. 

Mir Fateh Ali Khan established the Talpur dynasty after defeating the Kalhoras at the Battle of Halani. Mir Fateh Ali Khan, also declared himself the first Rais, or ruler of Sindh, in the aftermath of this, Khairpur becomes the hometown of the Talpur’s. The Khairpur state was ruled under Talpur’s from the period (1783 to 1955). Also, Khairpur became famous for its historical monuments, palaces, forts, and artistic buildings. 

The Talpur architecture features a combination of various elements that have roots derived from Islamic, Mughal, Rajasthani, and British buildings.  Talpur rulers hired engineers, masons, and artisans from all parts of the sub-continent for bringing innovation and new styles to their construction. 

I traveled to Khairpur last year, after visiting Kot Diji Fort and the ancient archaeological mound present there, we wanted to see the Oak Mahal, but its permission was canceled at the last minute. Our guide told us that we have a chance to see another historical building located a few kilometers from the fort named 'Sheesh Mahal of Kot Diji,'. 

After reaching the site, we met with a guard, who welcomes us in a very unfriendly manner. However, after a little talk with our guide who was also a local, he gave us permission for only five minutes to visit the place. 

Sheesh Mahal is a two-story building that has dimensions of 92 x 118 feet. There is a main hall in the center, which must be a darbar for royals in the past. The darbar walls are partitioned into equal-distance wooden door entrances on all four sides. These doors have elegantly designed circular arched ventilators at the top, which are decorated with multicolor glasses.

The darbar hall is rich in architectural embilshments, geometric patterns, and murals. The intricated design on the roof of mosaic work is something unique and a treat to watch also I have seen it in very less buildings in Pakistan,  

Another distinctive element of this building is the fresco floral paintings present on the roof and walls. The use of glass in different design patterns was so skillfully done and amazing to watch. It is also told by our guide that this is a Jodhpuri style of work. It is also noted that the building's interior doors are half-round. In a semi-circle area, tinted glass pieces are used. Earlier, I have seen such a type of glass design in many old buildings in Chiniot city. 

The interior of Main Hall, amazing floral patterns on walls and roof. Also one can see the half-round door with tinted glass on semi arched portions 

Corridors present along the length on both sides of the building. These corridors are supported with semi-circular arches having multifold facades on one end resting on circular Greek-style columns on the outside. 

 

 

Entrance 

Floral design on roof and walls 

Wooden Doors

Car Porch

Entrance

View from inside

Lights were off or either not available I have to use high iso for taking pictures 

Car Porch

Me

Another view of interior

Bath Rooms

Royal Bathroom and tub

 

 

 

     

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