History of Shah Di Khoi Fateh Singwala

13th June 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

The village of Shah Di Khoi Fateh Singwala, located within Punjab University in Lahore, has undergone a remarkable transformation over the years, evolving into a thriving modern town. The village's name, Shah di Khoi, holds a significant historical legacy, with roots stretching back nearly four centuries. Its origins can be traced to the 17th century when Hazrat Sheikh Abul Maali (RA), a highly respected Islamic scholar and saint, migrated from Shergarh to Lahore. In search of a tranquil setting for his religious and spiritual practices, he selected the picturesque location where the village of Shah di Khoi now stands. This site became his sanctuary for engaging in Chilla, a period of seclusion and intense devotion encompassing prayer, meditation, and introspection.

The village owes its name to the presence of a well at the Chilla site, aptly referred to as the "Well of Shah." This enduring connection to Hazrat Sheikh Abul Maali (RA) adds a profound sense of spirituality to Shah di Khoi.

Moving forward in time, we encounter the fascinating history of Sardar Fateh Singhwala's Haveli, an architectural gem that preserves the heritage of the village. During the reign of Raja Ranjeet Singh, it was customary to grant land and properties to his esteemed courtiers and loyal army officers. Sardar Fateh Singhwala's great-grandfather held a prominent position as a commander in Ranjeet Singh's army, and as a testament to his service, he was bestowed with valuable land in the 19th century. Over the years, this land passed down through generations, ultimately becoming the inheritance of Sardar Fateh Singh Wala in the 20th century.

Fateh Singh, belonging to the lineage of Shah di Khoi, achieved notable positions within the Sikh royal court and later attained high ranks during British colonial rule. His inheritance encompassed not only the Haveli but also eleven villages and vast stretches of land during the British era. Fateh Singh himself served as a government official under British rule and held a prestigious ministerial position in the Patiala and East Punjab Estate Union. These achievements further solidify the historical significance of Shah di Khoi and its association with the illustrious Fateh Singh.

Delving into the architectural features of the Haveli, we discover remnants of its grandeur. While the main entrance, adorned with an arched gateway, still stands as a testament to its former glory, the wooden panels that once embellished it have vanished or fallen victim to theft over the passage of time. Constructed in the 20th century during the British period, the Haveli exudes a distinct architectural style reflective of that era. Despite the challenges faced by many historical structures, the boundary wall surrounding the Haveli remains intact, symbolizing the resilience and endurance of the past.

Stepping inside the Haveli, we encounter a glimpse of its former splendor. The living quarters, arranged around a central courtyard, were once a hub of activity and social gatherings. Sadly, many of the original rooms have succumbed to the passage of time and undergone demolition. However, a poignant reminder of the Haveli's past remains in the form of a wooden balcony, standing proudly in one of the quarters. This surviving element serves as a tangible link to the rich history that unfolded within these walls.

Regrettably, the fate of the Haveli of Fateh Singh Wala is shrouded in controversy. As a disputed property, access to its interior is restricted, denying us the opportunity to explore its hidden treasures and unravel the stories locked within its walls.

It is interesting to mention here in Lahore, there is another pre-partition village located in the vicinity of a newly populated society of Bahria town in Lahore outskirts. The village was also named after Fateh Singh.

"Lahore's Timeless Charm: Unveiling the Enchanting Tale of Victoria Park and its Bygone Anglo Indian Community"

2022

(All images copyright 2022 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

In the heart of Lahore, Punjab lies a historic junction known as Charing Cross at the intersection of Queens, Montgomery, and Mall roads. This area was originally part of a neighborhood called Donald Town, named after Sir Donald McLeod, the Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab from 1865 to 1870. 

In 1901, a magnificent white marble pavilion was constructed at Charing Cross to commemorate Queen Victoria's jubilee as the first Empress of India. This grand pavilion housed a splendid bronze statue of Queen Victoria, cast in London in 1900. The statue was placed in a beautiful garden that occupied the very spot where the majestic Punjab Assembly Hall stands today. The pavilion, along with the statue, became a cherished landmark and a symbol of honor until 1951.

Adjacent to the Punjab Assembly and Faletti's Mosque, one can find Queen Victoria Park, which serves as a reminder of Lahore's British colonial history. Stretching from Beadon Road to Cooper Road, the park encompasses the areas now occupied by the Indus Hotel and Panorama. It was once the prime locality and home to many Anglo-Indian families until the partition of India in 1947 and a few years later.

The Anglo-Indian community, characterized by their mixed Indian and British or European heritage, had a unique cultural identity influenced by both Indian and Western traditions. English was often their primary language, and they embraced Western customs while incorporating Indian elements into their lifestyles, such as Indian cuisine and music.

Victoria Park, with its charming houses and lawns, was a significant hub for the Anglo-Indian community. The atmosphere was filled with the melodies of saxophones and gramophones, and families enjoyed tea and conversations on the front lawns. The picturesque setting of Victoria Park evoked a sense of nostalgia and a feeling of being transported to a different place. Outside of Victoria Park, Mall Road in Lahore held a captivating allure, where open-air restaurants graced its path. The melodious strains of jazz gently filled the air, invoking a mesmerizing ambiance that beckoned couples to sway to its enchanting rhythm. Lahore, in its timeless elegance, unfolded a mosaic of unforgettable moments, weaving together music, dance, and the magic of the city's spirit.

Over the years, many Anglo-Indians made the difficult decision to leave India and Pakistan, seeking better prospects and security. The partition brought about political changes and religious tensions that left them uncertain about their place in the newly formed countries. Migration became a viable option, and countries like the United Kingdom, Australia, Canada, and other Commonwealth nations became destinations for their relocation.

Today, Victoria Park has undergone significant transformations. The tall shopping plazas and modern architectural structures have replaced the old buildings, and only a few balconies remain as reminders of its past. The Anglo-Indian community has dispersed across the globe, but the memories of their vibrant culture and the harmonious coexistence of diverse communities in Lahore linger on.

As, I wandered through the streets of Victoria Park and took photos, beholding those few remaining balconies, my mind was transported to a golden past. It was a time when diverse communities of different religions and cultures coexisted harmoniously in this city. The remnants of Victoria Park serve as a window to that era, where the spirit of unity prevailed amidst the architectural grandeur. Yet, the passage of time has cast its inevitable spell. As the concrete jungle expands, the vibrant tapestry of the past slowly fades away, leaving behind only echoes of a bygone era.

The Four Kos Minars in Lahore with unknown History

December 06, 2014

(All images copyright 2014 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

The Kos Minars, constructed by the Mughal emperors from 1556 to 1707 AD, hold fascinating historical significance. The term "Kos" refers to an old measurement representing approximately 3 kilometers, while "Minar" signifies a tower in Persian. These magnificent structures, some towering over 30 feet in height, were initially built by the Mughals to mark their prestigious routes from Agra to Ajmer via Jaipur in the west, Agra to Lahore via Delhi in the north, and Agra to Mandu via Shivpuri in the south. Interestingly, modern highways often follow the same routes outlined by the Kos Minars.

According to Abul Fazl's account in Akbar Nama, in 1575 AD, Emperor Akbar issued a decree stating that at each Kos along the Agra-Ajmer route, a pillar or minar should be erected. This initiative aimed to provide comfort to travelers who may have lost their way, offering them a prominent landmark and a place to rest.

Notably, in the vicinity of Batapur, there exist four pillars resembling Kos Minars, but their history remains shrouded in mystery. These structures stand forlorn in fields, while remnants of two residential quarters nearby exhibit a construction style reminiscent of British architecture on a smaller scale. The question arises as to why these monuments were constructed in this particular area. Two theories provide potential insights into their history.

The first theory revolves around the village of Bhasin, located around 10 kilometers east of Batapur. Bhasin, situated on an ancient mound, has faced destruction from floods on two occasions in the past. Local elders recount a myth suggesting that during the olden days, when the city of Lahore was frequently devastated by floodwaters from the Ravi River, Bhasin remained relatively unscathed due to its higher ground level compared to Lahore. Prior to the partition of 1947, Bhasin was home to a sizable Sikh community, and remnants of splendid Havelis (mansions) and a Samadhi (memorial) can still be found there.

Bhasin also gained prominence due to the "Battle of Bhasin" in 1800 AD. Bhangi chiefs of Lahore, Nizam-ud-Din, Nawab of Kasur, Sahib Singh of Gujarat, and the Ramgarhia Sardars, harboring jealousy towards the rising power of Ranjit Singh, formed a coalition against him. They convened in Bhasin, where they conspired to invite Ranjit Singh and assassinate him.

Ranjit Singh, the Sikh ruler, established his camp in the plains near Bhasin, preparing for the confrontation. For two months, both armies faced each other, engaging in occasional skirmishes, but the coalition against Ranjit Singh hesitated to risk a full-scale war. During this period of prolonged delay, Bhangi Chief Gulab Singh, overcome by intoxication, met his demise, leading his troops to abandon Bhasin. Consequently, other allied forces disintegrated, resulting in Ranjit Singh emerging victorious.

Afterward, Ranjit Singh's troops settled in the vicinity of Batapur, and it is possible that the area housing the pillars served as a cantonment for his army.

The second theory relates to the First Anglo-Sikh War fought between the Sikh Empire and the British East India Company in 1845-1846, primarily around the Ferozepur district of Punjab. The conflict concluded with the defeat and partial subjugation of the Sikh Empire, with Jammu and Kashmir becoming separate princely states under British suzerainty. It is plausible that the area where the pillars are located was utilized as a cantonment during this period.

Both theories offer intriguing possibilities regarding the origins and significance of the pillars near Batapur. Further exploration and research may unravel the true stories behind these enigmatic structures, providing us with a deeper understanding of the rich historical tapestry of the region.

My childhood memories and Vanish Fourth Terrace of Shalimar Garden Lahore

In the early 80s, my father bought a piece of land behind the famous Shalimar Garden to build our house. Our house was the first one in the Alqader scheme neighborhood. Back then, the area was surrounded by green fields and there were several banyan and cordia myxa trees around. Our house is located less than half a kilometer away from the last terrace of Shalimar Bagh. According to historical records, Shalimar Bagh originally had seven terraces, three of which had walls for protection, while the other four were open gardens. Over time, due to floods from the Ravi River and prior to the construction of the fortified bund around Lahore, the four open gardens disappeared completely.

If you have been to Shalimar Garden, you may have noticed a deep dry well present the adjacent to nursey that is located right in front of Baghbanpura boys school. The school ground is still situated about ten to fifteen feet below the GT road. Just after that well, there used to be a pathway called 'Ghati' that connected the GT road with our colony, which was situated about fifteen to twenty feet down from GT road, and still, during rainy days rainwater was stuck in our colony for days.   Interestingly, the top surface of that 'Ghati' was originally made of Nanak Shahi Bricks, but later it was replaced with asphalt pavement.

When we were young, my father would daily give us a ride to school on his Yamaha 80 cc motorcycle. However, most of the time, the motorcycle would stop in the middle of the 'Ghati' with all three of us siblings on it. Being the eldest my father drop me just before the 'Ghati' so the bike can climb the ascend. 

One of my oldest memories is that during an excavation near the third terrace of Shalimar Bagh, roughly it would be the fourth as it become part of a newly constructed housing colony in the foundation an early buried construction appeared, the owner thinks it might be part of some historical baradari and his land might be taken by historically concerned departments and he built his house on the same bed without going deep.

That hard bed integrated me for decades that might be a Bardari bed, what was that I could not find the answer unless having a meeting with Maqsood sb an architect works for years in the archeologist department of Punjab. he told me that it was an old water tank that feeds the lower terraces of Shalimar garden and vanishes before 1970 due to heavy flooding and its presence was only mentioned in few land records.

The terraces vanish gone long ago at least I saw one last glimpse of a forgotten structure relevant to the fourth terrace. 

Services Club Multan also known as Multan Garrison Mess

April 1, 2017

Services Club Multan, also known as MGM (Multan Garrison Mess), is a true architectural masterpiece and a unique example of its kind. Constructed in 1880, this magnificent building boasts 13 domes of varying sizes, each adding to its grandeur. What makes this structure even more remarkable is that it was built using the traditional method of using clay (known as Gachee Mitti) sourced from the Chenab River.

The allure of this moonlit spectacle, with its 13 gleaming domes, extends beyond the local community. Even international travelers passing through the airspace above are captivated by the sight of this architectural gem.

The land where MGM stands today was generously allocated by an English resident, spanning an impressive 7.63 acres. According to the tales passed down by the elders, Nawab Bahawalpur, who had a Turkish heritage, oversaw the construction of this building using clay bricks crafted from the abundant resources of the Chenab River. The architectural style was inspired by Turkish influences, adding a touch of exotic beauty to the structure.

Services Club Multan or MGM stands as a testament to the rich history and cultural diversity of the region. Its unique blend of architectural brilliance and the story behind its creation make it a significant landmark, attracting admiration and fascination from all who encounter its splendor.

Visiting this architectural marvel is a journey through time, immersing visitors in the grandeur and heritage of the past.