Haveli Nau Nihal Singh

Victoria Girls High School is a government girl’s school inside the walled city of Lahore and is housed in a nineteenth-century Sikh period haveli of Naunihal Singh, the son of Kharak Singh and grandson of  Maharajah Ranjeet Singh.

The haveli is one of the few remaining royal residences from the Sikh period in Lahore. It is an intact structure of over forty rooms with most elements of its original ornamentation preserved on the two main elevations and the interior courtyard facades.
The most important and incidentally also the better-preserved feature of this haveli is the ‘rang mahal, a small picture gallery on the top floor. The ‘shish mahal’ or ‘rang mahal, is a typical feature of both Sikh and earlier Mughal architecture and consists usually of a highly ornamental room with embellishment in the form of frescoes, mosaics with mirror pieces inlaid in stucco, decorative ceilings with painted designs and beading patterns.
The rooms were used for entertainment and relaxation and opened onto a view or the courtyard. While the rest of this valuable piece of architectural heritage has lost most of the interior surface ornament due to its heavy use as a school building for over a hundred years the room has been saved due to its location on the top floor and its fame as the haunted room was also a reasonable deterrent.
The lore of the school is what girls from the walled city get to experience.

Kos Minar of Manhala

OS Minar or Mile Pillars are medieval milestones that were made by the 16thcentury Afghan Ruler Sher Shah Suri and later on by Mughal emperors. Well most of us who got interest in historical architectures of Lahore, knows that one of the remains of KOS Minar located in Gari Shahu area of Lahore. 

Whereas, one such similar edifice exists in Manhala village located in outskirts of Lahore. From distance it appears to be a brick chimney, one has to walk around the fields to reach to it. The Minar bottom foundation portion is not in good shape, some bricks are missing which ultimately weaken the strength of whole structure.
It is sad to note that Kos Minar located in Gari Shahu is properly protected with construction of park around it. Whereas, no one from authorities looking notice for protection of this structure. For more details and information about this contact (aliusman739@gmail.com)

EXPLORING KANNA MATA GURDAWARA NEAR CHHAPA VILLAGE

Kashif Gurki is a good friend of mine; his ancestors are natives of outskirts of Lahore. He is living in city from childhood and has visited these areas from time to time. Kashif has keen interest towards history, old architectural buildings and one can call him the ‘Khoji’ of these areas. In these numerous villages, there are hundreds of small and 'less important' structures bequeathed to us by our ancestors. 

I gather information about these structures by spending hours of time on Google maps and also inquire locals to try to get some clues of location, directions and history. I then bookmark the place in my mind. I am not a writer or historian; I only have passion to explore our ancestor’s great heritage. I have a six working days at job and only one day off but still I want to pay a visit once to these sites before they vanish forever.

Dilemma of time is that nobody visits them except the passionate history lovers like me. Some of these structures are even enlisted in the archaeology heritage list, but hardly ever any effort has been made to preserve them. 

Along with Kashif Gurki and other friends; we are exploring outskirt of Lahore from last three years. Padhana, Jevan Singh, Sandhwalia, Nawar and Manhala are few names which we have visited in past few years. We found remains of numbers of great Sikh era architectures in these areas. 

On one early morning of May; we once again headed on bikes to explore these neglected historically rich areas. This time we were in search of an old edifice about which we heard that it’s located somewhere near Chhappa village. We started our journey from Shalimar garden and further headed towards BRB canal. We crossed BRB canal near to point where Lahore canal begins. After crossing BRB canals on left side there exists Kherianwala Pul. This historical bridge was built during British era on Shah Naher. Shah Nahar was dug out by Ali Mardan Khan from Jodhpur (Now India) to lahore with 2 lakh rupees during Mughal Empire Shah Jahan for irrigation of Shalimar Bagh. Shah Nahar was 161 kilometer long. The portion of Shah Naher beyond BRB Canal is dried up after 1947 independence as India Stopped water flow in it and now remaining portion of canal taking water from BRB canal. We further ridded along the dried up Shah Nahar portion to reach Chhappa village, meanwhile Kashif Gurki shared with us story of ‘Moran Dancer’ related to Shah Nahar. 

Mahraja Ranjeet Singh built a bridge on Shah Nahars famous Kanjri da Pul for ‘Moran Tawaif ‘.she was the famous dancer of Amritsar. It is said that one day while crossing the canal one of her shoes fell into the water which vexed her a great deal and a bridge was constructed on her insistence. Now this Pul in India near Indo-pak boarder. ‘Pul Kanjari’ is a famous World heritage site declared by UNESCO. It is one among the heritage sight built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, where he used to take rest while passing by along with his royal troop. During his reign, Pul Kanjari was an important trading centre and the king used to stay there for few days when travelling between Lahore and Amritsar. 

At last, we reached Chhappa village. The remains of Gurdawara is located outside the village. There is no approach road after the village; one has to walk around the fields to reach to Gurdawara. It is single storey square building with dome at top. One wall of structure is destroyed due to roots of a nearby tree which demolished the brick work. There is one opening on eastern side, which was definitely used as door, as it’s an auspicious Hindu tradition. I have seen many other Gurdawara’s architectures in nearby villages of this area but found this structure quite different and mysterious because of following reasons. 
1- No Gurdawara in the area is single storey.
2- It looks more to me a tomb then a Gurdawara. 

I came to conclusion that maybe it was a tomb of Mughal era and during Sikh era that might be converted into Gurdawara. There are also remains of deep well and Sarovar in surroundings. 

At present, the structure is in extremely bad condition and already converted into ruin. If not taken care then in few years these ruin will also be vanished forever.( For further detail please contact at (aliusman739@gmail.com))

THE HERCULUES OF SUBCONTINENT - #KIKKAR SINGH OF CHANTEKE

Before the independence of 1947, in the small village of Lahore district named Chanteke (now locals named it Ghanenki), a famous wrestler of sub-continent Kikkar Singh born. Ghanenki located very near to Indo-Pak border hardly 3.5 kilometers from the borderline. In order to reach there, one has to travel on Burki road and first reach Hadyara village, further to that you have to follow Hadyara to Ghanenki road which is seven kilometers in distance. There is also one other approach route i.e., Manhalla to Ghanenki road. We follow the second route because we have to see some other historical sites in Manhalla and its surroundings (There details of them will be published separately). We started at 5:30 am in the morning and reach Ghanenki around 10 am.

Pehelvan Kikkar Singh Sandhu Kikkar Singh Sandhu 'Pehelvan' was a wrestler of legendary fame. He was born on 13 January 1857 to Javala Singh Sandhu and Sahib Kaur, a farming couple of moderate means living in the village ot Chanteke, in the Lahore district. Javtla Singh, himself a wrestler, wished his only son to train as one. Young Kikkar Singh began his apprenticeship in his mother's native village, Nurpur, under Gulam, the potter. As he returned to his own village, he started practicing with an elderly wrestler, Vasava Singh, who taught him many fine points of the sport. He had already made a name as a wrestler by the time he put himself under the tutelage of Buta Pahilvan, Rustam-i-Hind, of Lahore.

When Boota Pahelwan retired from the sport in the late 19th century, his gigantic Sikh pupil was acknowledged as champion. Kikkar Singh’s prodigious frame and Herculean strength soon became hallmarks sought after by the rulers of the princely states of Jodhpur, Indore, Datia, Tonk, and Jammu and Kashmir. His physique and strength were of such proportions that the Maharaja of Kashmir regarded him as an incarnation of Bhairav, the fierce form of Shiva. But with all his size, he wrestled with the nimbleness of a lion. Few competitors could match the strength and skill of this ‘Dev-i-Hind’ (demi-god of India).

Kikkar Singh’s greatest rival was Ghulam Pahelwan of Amritsar. They fought on several occasions, drawing huge crowds from all over Punjab to their epic bouts. After Ghulam’s death in 1900, his brother Kalloo, laid claim to his title, but Kikkar Singh stood in his way. Of the seven times they grappled, Kikkar Singh won four matches, lost two and drew their last, which took place during the Delhi Durbar celebrations held in December 1911 to commemorate King George V’s coronation. Kikkar Singh was challenged by his old rival, Kalloo. Although the Sikh was way past his prime (he had grown enormous: according to the referee, Brigadier General Charles Granville Bruce, his weight had ballooned from his prime weight of 19 stones or 266 pounds to 26 stones or 364 pounds) and had become a patient of asthma, he would not let a challenge go unanswered. When the match began, the two pahelwans were said to have circled the arena like two hungry lions. Kalloo brought Kikkar Singh to the ground but was fouled by the giant. On resuming the match Kalloo gave Kikkar Singh a thorough beating until the referee intervened and declared the match a draw.

Kikkar Singh died in 1914 at his native village where a ‘samadhi’ or memorial shrine was raised in his memory.

What appears to be a small structure now, spread over a few hundred square feet, could have been a much larger complex at the time of its zenith. It is a double storey structure with a splendid dome. 

Despite its horrible state, the structure still commands a lot of respect, because of its sheer aesthetic. This smadhi is a fine blend of two great cultures, Hindu and Muslim, which culminated in the Sikh culture of Punjab. So to a curious student of history all this talk about 'us' and 'them' seems superficial. 

The original structure was completed in white limestone, which has now given away to a black corrosive powder, as a result of decades of ignorance. A brick wall surrounds the structure from the three sides, however originally it must have covered the complete structure, and the entrance would have been from the eastern side, as is auspicious in the Hindu tradition. The door leading inside the smadhi is locked; however we managed to peek inside from a small crack in the door. The building is elaborately decorated in the interior, with floral and geometric motifs adorning the dome and other niches. They are still fresh, and can be easily revived with just a little effort. The walls inside are also covered with limestone. The aura of the smadhi in the environs of the village leads one to the conclusion that this belongs to perhaps, the most important person of the village. 

This is the final resting place of the great Indian Pehalwan Kikkar Singh. A detailed story of his life can be found in the Encyclopedia of Sikh literature. The fact that the smadhi belongs to this Pehalwan and nobody else is also established by the Land Revenue Records of the village of Ghania Keh, noted down during the British era. He was born here on October 13, 1857. During his lifetime, he became renowned all over the country -- which brought him much fame and wealth. Among the famous wrestlers that he has defeated are Goonga Pehalwan, Ghulam Muhammad aka Gama Pehalwan, Kalu Pehalwan, etc. His father Jawala Singh was also a wrestler; however, he couldn't attain the heights that his son did. Kikkar Singh got his initial training from his father but was subsequently trained by a local Pehalwan Ghulami. According to the encyclopedia of Sikh literature, Kikkar received two important titles, Pehalwan-e-Hind and Dev-e-Hind. 

The stories and legends of Kikkar Singh have inspired Punjabi poets and writers over decades. One such poet, who wrote an entire piece on him, was Maula Bakhsh Khusta, a book shop owner in Amritsar. He lived before the Partition of British India. Kikkar Singh's real name was Prem Singh. It is said that once he returned from a wrestling match at Jammu, and told his mother that he was starving. She told him that there was no wood to cook food, so Kikkar went outside and uprooted an entire Kikkar tree and brought it back to his mother. This is how he became famous as Kikkar Singh. Even today, people recall this story. 

It is, however, a pity that even though he lived, died, and was interred on this side of the border; we have not given this legend his due status. In India, however, Kikkar Singh is still remembered and celebrated as a hero. In 1995, Ajit Jalandar Akhbar published a story on this hero, which came in three parts. The following incident is taken from that story: It is said that his father was a huge man and was popular in the region. Once a government bank was looted and his father was arrested on suspicion. He was imprisoned without any proof for three years but was later released with the help of a British policeman whose family he had rescued from fire at one time. Once a wrestler by the name of Chanan came to Kikkar and pleaded in front of him that he was a poor man and couldn't defeat him. So when both of them fight in front of the Nawab of Bahawalpur, Kikkar Singh should not defeat him, neither will he. Kikkar agreed. However, when the fight began Chanan tried to defeat Kikkar. This inflamed Prem Singh who told the Nawab everything. The Nawab retorted that since both of them had cheated him, both of them should be put behind bars. Eventually, he decided on a rematch, in which Kikkar defeated Chanan and got a big reward. However, Prem could not completely recover from the humiliation of going to jail. The embarrassment of both father and son having been incarcerated on a false pretext was too much for him to take, and he soon passed away in depression. 

We forget our great heritage and heroes of the sub-continent. At present, the Samadhi is in very bad condition and already converted into ruins and in few years these ruins will also vanish forever.( For further detail please contact at (aliusman739@gmail.com))

A Biking Ride to Explore Gurdwara Siri Sandhawalia

A Biking Ride to Explore Gurdwara Siri Sandhawalia

Directions:-

This Gurdawara is located 14 kilometer from Jalo Mor Lahore in borderly village of Sandhawalia. From Jalo Mor one has to cross BRB Canal and turn right on GT road Burki road link and will reach Manhala village. From Manahala you have to move forward on Chappa village road, from Chappa one has to track Nawar Khwaja Faiq road and will reach Sandhawalia village in 90 minutes

History

Let’s explore its historical background … Before Raja Ranjit Singh in late 18th century, frequent invasions by Ahmad Shah Abdali and the Durrani Empire led to a lack of governance in the Punjab region. During thirty years following the final departure of Ahmed Shah Abdali, the Sikhs were left to themselves and increased in wealth and numbers. They gradually divided themselves into independent misls, under the command of hereditary chieftains, having a common place of meeting at Amritsar. Lahore, meanwhile, was portioned out amongst a triumvirate of Sikh chieftains, named, respectively, Gujjar Singh, Lehna Singh and Sobha Singh, who are spoken of to this day as the Three Hakims. The three chieftains split the city's revenue. For almost thirty long years Gujjar Singh along with Lehna Singh and Sobha Singh, ruled supreme and kept paying the Afghan invader and his offspring an annual sum to keep them at bay.

Most of the borderly villages of Lahore, Attari, Nawar, Sandhawalia, Thaypur, Jevan Singh and Padana once were majorly populated by Sikhs; now one can only see glimpse of great Sikh architectures and religious buildings in the area. Thaypur is one of the borderly villages of Lahore which is hardly 2 and half kilometer from Sandhawalia and less than one kilometer from border has significant part in Sikh history.

Lehna Singh the Sikh chieftains play an important role in shaping the history of Punjab. He arrived at Thay Pur, from Kalkey Kasur where he made an army of his own, and captured all the land from here till Rawalpindi. At that time Pindi was a small town, and he constructed large buildings here. It was also made the capital of his empire. He died in 1804, handing over his kingdom to his son, who later handed it over to Ranjit Singh and became his ally.  

Ranjit Singh's biggest oversight was, perhaps, his inability to have fully prepared any of his sons to take over his kingdom and to be fatally unaware of the treachery afoot in his court in his last few years. When Ranjit Singh died, Kharak Singh, his eldest son became Maharaja. Kharak Singh was 50 years old at this time

Khrak Singh was poisoned by Dogras brothers and after his death his son Naunihal Singh named for Mahraja. Naunihal Singh came back to Lahore to fulfill his duty to cremate the body of his father. As he entered the fort his the funeral procession was already underway. After the last prayers were said he was able to light the pyre of sandalwood. Returning from the cremation, as the group aproached the fort (he and Udham Singh were well ahead now, as the Dogras, with the other Nobles behind them, had lagged behind. Suddenly, just as the new Maharaja and Udham Singh Dogra reached the archway of the old Hazuri Bagh gate; the gate crashed down upon them. Two days later Naunihal Singh had died due to complications of his injury

With yet more deaths of the Royal Family to come Dhyan Singh Dogra now proclaimed another son of Ranjit Singh named Sher Singh as the Maharaja of the Punjab thus seemingly switching allegiance, from the Royal Family at Lahore, to Sher Singh in his power play for the King Meanwhile, the Sandhawalia Sardars Ajit Singh, Lehna Singh and Attar Singh began to fear Sher Singh and Dhyan Singh Dogra and left Lahore seeking safe haven with the British dom.  Two years later, the Sandhanwalia brothers sent a letter to Maharaja Sher Singh saying they wanted to return to their motherland. Sher Singh obliged and gave them permission to return to the Punjab. Sher Singh gave them good positions of rank in the army. It looked at first as if the Sandhawalia brothers were pleased. Dhyan Singh began to plot with the Sandhanwalias suggesting they were all in danger from Sher Singh. Sher Singh with his son, ten year old Prince Pertap Singh was invited to inspect new conscripts under command of the Sandhawalias, Ajit Singh Sandhawalia asked permission to show him how to fire a new carbine he had got from the British. The story is told that...Sher Singh agreed and as he reached for the gun, which was being handed to him barrel first, Ajit Singh Sandhawalia pulled the trigger, Sher Singh only had time to gasp "aah ki Daga!",(what treachery!). At the same time, Lehna Singh Sandhawalia killed Prince Pertap Singh. Dhyan Singh Dogra with 25 of his troops joined them and they all headed back to the fort. Ajit and Lehna Singh took Dhyan Singh aside, as if for a private talk and killed him. His body was cut into many pieces which were hung on pikes all over Lahore City.

Learning of the events Raja Gulab Singh and Hira Sing Dogra, led the Sarkar Khalsa forces in an attack on the Sandhanwalia's citadel; where the murderous brothers, with about 500 of their supporters, had taken shelter. The enraged Khalsa Army attacked and a day later over ran the fort killing both of the Sandhanwalia assassins on the spot.

This Gurdawara constructed by Ajit Singh Sandhawalia. It is tomb like structure hexagonal in shape having three stories. The lower story is close room having only one entrance. The second story has two arch door openings in opposite directions. The top story has four openings; it is called guru astan (rest room for guru). There is also a small room alongside the main structure.

Dehri Alladand in Malakand (2014)

• Dehri Alladand in Malakand.
• Shaheeda Abai (martyred grandmother).
• Sir Tor Faqir

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On April 15, 2014, I had the opportunity to visit Dir, a region in Pakistan. The purpose of my visit was to explore the Koto hydropower site. Accompanying me was Fazal Kareem, a local engineer from Malakand. On our return journey, we reached a place called Dehri Alladand, where Fazal Kareem shared intriguing historical facts about the area.

He began by recounting the arrival of the British in India, initially disguising themselves as merchants but gradually establishing dominance over the region. Prior to British rule, the Mughal and Sikh empires held sway in the area. Following the fall of the Sikh Empire, the British annexed Punjab in 1849. They also occupied certain tribal areas and conducted numerous expeditions over time. Although they were unable to directly interfere with the tribal way of life, the British established the first agency in 1878 with the aim of keeping the Khyber Pass open.

Fazal Kareem delved into the British campaign against Malakand in 1853. He described how the British first launched a raid on the Uthmankhel tribe, engaging in a significant battle at Prang Ghar. Due to the small number of defenders and their limited weaponry, the Uthmankhel were subdued. This action, however, provoked the Ranizais, who wholeheartedly supported their Uthmankhel brethren. In response, the British decided to punish the Ranizais.

In the latter months of 1853, under the command of Lord Klaidy, a brigade was dispatched to confront the Ranizais. They raided Dargai and Kharkaey, two small Ranizais villages situated at the base of the Malakand Pass. The Ranizais, facing a well-equipped enemy with artillery, eventually agreed to pay a ransom of Rs. 5,000. Although the British forces arrived, their primary objective remained seizing control of the pass at any cost.

Aware of the British intentions, Pukhtoons from various parts of Malakand Division proclaimed jihad against the colonial power. The situation in Buner, ruled by Syed Akbar Shah Badshah, known as Ameerul Jihad, was particularly tense. The British repeatedly planned to storm Buner but struggled to find a viable strategy.

In 1877, following the death of the influential Akhund Sahib (Saidu Baba) of Swat, the Pukhtoon union, which had troubled the British, disintegrated. Exploiting the rivalries among the Pukhtoons, Lord Klaidy led a formidable army into Ranizais territory via Palai and Sherkhana, two hamlets located at the southern boundary of Malakand Agency. Once again, the Ranizai tribe resorted to arbitration.

Moving forward to April 1895, Fazal Kareem recounted the war initiated by Sir Arlo, a major in the British Army, and Colonel Kelly against Umara Khan, a renowned and indomitable sardar (chieftain) and shrewd politician known as "the Afghan Napoleon" by Sir Winston Churchill. The British forces established their camp at Dargai and Kharkay. With the assistance of Prince Ibrahim Khan, the British warned the Ranizais against resisting. However, when the British advanced towards Malakand, a fierce battle erupted at the Malakand Pass, where the Swat Ranizais displayed exceptional valor.

The Uthmankhel of Bar Swat, Dir, and Bajaur joined forces, dealing a severe blow to the enemy. Faced with mounting losses, the British resorted to negotiations. On September 12, 1895, an agreement was signed between the British and the Swat and Sam Ranizais.

In 1897, during the second Battle of Malakand, the Sam Ranizais remained passive while the Swat Ranizais continued to resist. This battle proved decisive, with Pukhtoon women even joining the fight. Fazal Kareem highlighted the bravery of a woman from Dheri Alladand, a respected family, whose name is not widely known. She fought tirelessly, providing sustenance and support to the mujahideen until she was martyred. She rests in an unmarked grave on the outskirts of Dheri Alladand, known locally as Shaheeda Abai (Martyred Grandmother).

Another notable figure mentioned by Fazal Kareem was Hazrat Sadullah Khan, also known as Sar Tor Faqir (Bear-Headed Faqir), Mullah Mastan, or Mad Mullah to the British. Hailing from Riga, Buner in Swat, Sar Tor Faqir gathered a group of mujahideen and launched an assault on Malakand, where the enemy had taken positions.

Upon learning of Sar Tor Faqir's proclamation of jihad, the British dispatched the Mardan Guides Regiment to pursue him. While the British troops captured Amandara, Sar Tor Faqir marched from Landakay towards Thana, where additional mujahideen joined his small band. Together, they advanced to Dheri Alladand and then to Batkhela, bypassing the British forces at Amandara. Their ultimate goal was to raid Malakand.

At Malakand Khas, Sar Tor Faqir launched an assault on the British and soundly defeated them. The Sikhs later joined the British, but despite their combined forces, they were still unable to prevail. The mujahideen captured the British quarter guard, seizing a substantial quantity of arms and ammunition. The battle continued until dawn, resulting in significant casualties for the enemy. Nineteen mujahideen, including Sar Tor Faqir, were martyred. Sar Tor Faqir's tomb stands at the base of Elephant Pass (Hathi Darrah) south of Zulamkot village in Malakand.

Fazal Kareem mentioned another notable figure, Hazrat Sikandar Shah Shaheed, who would carry a large red and white banner. Even after his followers were martyred, he continued to fight until he fell near the British front line. It is believed that Hazrat Sikandar Shah Shaheed (Spin Shaheed) is buried near the modern road close to the Malakand Pass. The ex-political agent of Malakand, Abdul Wakil Shah, constructed a beautiful mausoleum for him during his tenure from 1991 to 1993, using funds collected for the purpose.

Adjacent to Sikandar Shah Shaheed's tomb, a mosque has been constructed, where travelers passing through the area, from Mingora and beyond, stop to offer prayers.

Fazal Kareem emphasized that the bravery of the Pukhtoon mujahideen has been acknowledged even by British writers in their reports and books. He cited Captain J. Young and Colonel Sir Francis, authors of the book "Relief of Chitral," who spoke highly of the enemy's courage. They recounted instances of individual bravery, such as a leader who carried a large red and white banner and charged the Scottish Borderers halfway up the hill. The leader fought on alone, undeterred, despite sustaining heavy wounds, until he was eventually shot dead near the British line. Another example was a drummer who, not content with his fair share of risks, climbed onto the roof of a hut, becoming a visible target against the sky. He continued to beat his drum despite being hit multiple times until a fatal bullet struck him through the heart, causing him to fall down the cliff with his drum around his neck and his arms still raised to strike it.

Following these events, the British established a new force called the Malakand Field Force to handle the tribes in the Malakand region. One of the members of this force was Winston Churchill, who later became the Prime Minister of Great Britain. Churchill served as a captain in the Malakand Field Force and also worked as a war correspondent for the "Allahbad Pioneer" and the "Daily Telegraph." He gained significant recognition for his book "Story of the Malakand Field Force," which further elevated his reputation.

Jiwan Singh the Lost Heritage (2015)

Date of Visit:- 06th January 2015

Jiwan Singh the Lost Heritage 

A few months back, I have seen some amazing historical pictures of an old haveli on my friend's wall. On inquiring him he told that these pictures were taken from the border village of Lahore named Jiwan Singh. 

I was too much eager to visit this site that I have put a sticky note on my laptop about Jiwan Singh. It is located fourteen kilometers from Lahore Jalo Park. It took us ninety minutes to reach there on a motorbike. The site is located in the center of the village and Indo Pakistan border is less than a kilometer from this place.  The haveli which was actually a fort in past is not in good condition and badly destroyed because of vandalism.  Still the crumbling arches, domes, curvatures telling what a great Sikh Architecture it was. .The villagers are more than friendly they offered us tea and show us all parts of the fort.

History and Background;- 

Jeevan Singh's father played an important role in shaping the history of Punjab. He arrived at Thay Pur, from Kalkey Kasur where he made an army of his own and captured all the land from here till Rawalpindi. At that time Pindi was a small town, and he constructed large buildings there as well. It was also made the capital of his empire. He died in 1804, handing over his kingdom to his son, who later handed it over to Ranjit Singh and became his ally. Jeevan Singh's progeny lived in this village till 1947, when they moved to somewhere around Amritsar.

The ruined fort and Samadi are now the only link between  Jeevan Singh and this village but they are too disappearing fast. Even with conservation efforts, little can now be preserved because of the immense destruction that time has wrought over it.

The locals say the condition of these historic buildings in the village was much better till the war of 1965. In the war, this village was taken over by the Indian forces who brought a lot of destruction here. It is said that they purposefully damaged the fort, perhaps to prevent it from being used as an army strategic location. However, when they were returning, the elders of the locality claim that they renovated the samadhi, in the outer-skirts of the village.

This fort, which is the main attraction of this village, is now in a pathetic state. The entire body of the edifice has almost fallen, only leaving a hollow structure, like the Laxmi building at the Laxmi Chowk. However, whatever remains of the structure, suggests a splendid past, of Sikh architecture. A few arches, pillars, frescoes, sculptures, speak to us about the luxury of this building which was clearly built for residential purposes. The entrance into the relic of the fort is towards the Eastern side where still a large arch remains. This was a double-story building, however, for the most part, the second portion has been destroyed. A few rooms, filled with all sorts of unwanted stuff survive here and there. Nobody is using the building, except for cows, and their dung. A few rooms are being used as storage rooms by the LOCAL people. Where that has been done, new constructions have been made, to optimize the space of the building. Old bricks have been robbed by people, to be used in their houses. All over the village, one finds houses with petit bricks. It appears that the pattern on the ground floor, composed of a combination of rooms, courtyard, and a few big rooms, was replicated on the second floor. The courtyard was on all sides of the building; however, now that has been taken over by the people of the village.

There is a dome on top of one room inside the edifice which has relics of colorful Sikh guru frescoes on the wall inside. There was a small platform in the middle of the room and a broken wooden palki nearby. There is only one entrance into the room. While the locals say there was no gurdwara in the village, all the evidence points towards the fact that this was a Sikh shrine within the complex.

Facing this fort is another building that at first appears to be part of the edifice but is not. This is also an old building, made around 1939 according to the testimonies of the people. This was a triple story building standing on top of the highest side of the mound. The top of this building is the highest part of the region from where one can see Indian villages, buildings.

Further East, there were 3 samadhis, 2 small and 1 big one. The condition of these structures is MUCH like the buildings just visited if not worse. Of the three, the condition of the only one is recognizable. However, even its dome has fallen and it has been stuffed by bricks and closed. Bricks from here have also been taken by the people. There are some floral frescoes on this samadhi in red and green. This is an octagonal construction with a pier on each edge.

These three samadhis belong to Jeevan Singh, his wife, and his son Sardar Anand Singh, who was the landlord of the region during the days of the Empire. There was a PROTECTIVE wall around these three structures, which now has fallen. Sardar Jeevan Singh was responsible for the construction of the first fort we visited. According to the British land records which now have been lost and are only available with Iqbal Qaiser, this fort was made in 1798, around the time when Ranjit Singh became sovereign of this region.

Jeevan Singh belonged to the sub-caste of Sher Gill and originally belonged to the village of Thay Pura, around 4 kilometers north of the present location, within the jurisprudence of Pakistan. Around that time, it is said that his village was subjected to perpetual raids by various people, which is why, he along with other people left it, and came and established themselves here. Principally, there are two castes here, Sher Gills, and Jut Gills. They both came along with Jeevan Singh. The former were bigger landlords whereas the latter smaller. During the Partition, Jut-Gills converted and stayed back. However, their land was taken over by the government with the pretension that it belonged to the departed. They FILED litigation and got the ruling in their favor. They are still found in the village, living in a poor condition.

Location Map:-