Thursday 7 January 2016
Kotli Maqbara also knwon as Moselousm of Abdul Nabi Qazi ul Qaza Tomb
Tuesday 8 December 2015
The doomed domes
A beautiful, carpeted road stretches for
about 13 kilometres, connecting River Saifan to Batapur Lahore. On one side of
this road, the BRB canal flows, flanked by tall trees at both ends, while on
the other side, small villages and fields come into view. I became familiar
with this road a long time ago when my younger brother and I used to ride our
bicycles along it. I still vividly remember the early morning rides, where we
encountered a variety of birds and rare species. The Bee-eaters and Indian
Rollers would gracefully fly in front of us, fearlessly greeting us with their
presence and signaling the arrival of a new day.
Bhaini, a small village that dates back
to the pre-partition era, consists of only a few houses and is located
approximately six kilometers along the Batapur-Saifan road. A few months ago, I
discovered the existence of an old structure in the vicinity of Bhaini. Last
Sunday, I decided to visit this place with one of my friends.
As we entered the village, we noticed a
cluster of trees just outside its boundaries. It turned out to be the Bhaini
graveyard, with a tall, 20-foot-high ancient structure situated at its center.
This structure takes the form of a semicircular arched gateway, featuring an
indentation in the main wall that serves as a Mihrab, indicating its connection
to a mosque. On one side of the Mihrab structure, one can still observe the
remains of brick grooves, indicating the presence of an adjoining front wall
that has been eroded by the passage of time. In front of this structure lies a
small courtyard, with a grave positioned in the center. The locals utilize this
space for both prayer and funeral rites. Constructed with Nanakshahi bricks
laid in kankad lime, the Mihrab still bears traces of the once magnificent
fresco work that adorned its interior. Its grand scale suggests that this
mosque must have been an awe-inspiring sight during its prime, dating back at
least three to four centuries.
As I stood there, many questions arose
in my mind. What had happened to the rest of the mosque's structure? How did it
come to be demolished?
After much contemplation and
speculation, I managed to find some possible answers to unravel this mystery.
This site is located a mere four kilometers from the River Ravi, which has
changed its course over time. A couple of decades ago, I witnessed the most
severe flood of my life here, with the River Ravi coming dangerously close to
overflowing the ring road. It is likely that the floodwaters eroded the walls
of the mosque's structure, leaving only the intact Mihrab behind.
Another theory that emerged is that this
site lies within four kilometers of the Indo-Pak border and was within range of
Indian artillery fire during the 1965 and 1971 Indo-Pakistani wars. It is
possible that the main structure of this mosque was destroyed during those
turbulent times.
As we prepared to leave, my mind was
filled with a multitude of thoughts. Where is the mind that conceived this
mosque? Where are the hands that constructed it with such devotion? Where have
the foreheads gone that once bowed before the Almighty within its walls?
Oh, my Lord, with these hazy thoughts
lingering, we slowly moved away, and the mosque gradually disappeared into the
darkness, leaving behind a sense of awe and wonder.
Friday 4 December 2015
A Three Hundred Year Old Mosque of Jhandiala
Monday 16 November 2015
A Neglected 400 year old Mughal Era Bridge near KOT Pindi Das
Tuesday 3 November 2015
Havelis of Khushal Singh and Dhian Singh also known Asif Jah Haveli
It was the beginning of the year 2013 when I conducted a photo walk to visit various historical places in the walled city of Lahore with my friends. These havelis are part of a cluster of havelis known as Chuna Mandi Havelis, a significant group of historic buildings in the Walled City. It currently houses the Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women. Unfortunately at that time, we could not get permission to visit and have to leave the place through the main doorway; At that time, we have a little glimpse of the inside of Haveli from the entrance, which shows magnificent architecture ahead. The photo walk finished but the desire to visit this place ignited badly inside. I wanted to visit this place, I used all my personal contacts, also wrote a letter to Principle of this college for granting permission for visit; requested a Walled city director, and also asked many senior architecture lovers but all efforts were in vain. Three years passed, and one day I discussed the same with my good friend Maria Waseem, a historian researcher. After an effort of two months, we finally got permission, Special thanks to her and his husband in this regard.
The College building, with its spacious courtyard and Sikh imagery, is sometimes thought to be the famous haveli or Palace of Raja Dhian Singh, the young Rajput chamberlain of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, but is more likely to be the Palace of Jamadar Khushal Singh (d. 1844). Khushal Singh was a humble doorkeeper who later rose to the exalted position of Lord Chamberlain of Ranjit Singh. Khushal Singh may well have built upon earlier Mughal remains. The large expanse of the compound and the existence of a garden, along with some other pre-Sikh remains, indicate the existence of a large Mughal mansion. This could be the palace of Asaf Khan, brother of Empress Noor Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan. Asaf Khan was an arbiter of taste, and historical sources credit him with building a luxurious palace in Lahore which had cost an exorbitant 20 lakhs at the time. Another haveli in the group, located in the north, also sports a courtyard. It was built by Teja Singh, nephew of Jamadar Khushal Singh. The third extant structure, located on the east of the cluster is considerably smaller in size.
Not long after British annexation, the haveli was fitted up as the first place of public worship for the Christian garrison stationed in the fort and continued to be utilized as such until the tomb of Anarkali began to be employed for divine service in 1851. At this time the palace served as Government District School. Later, as is well known. Government College made its beginning in this building when classes were begun by the first principal of the College, Dr. G. Leitner on January 1, 1864. It was in 1877 when the new college campus was constructed that the haveli was vacated and fell into desolation until its recent restoration.
Seeing the magnificent haveli, one can well believe that its owner must have spent a pretty penny on it. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is as alive today as it was in its days of glory. Instead of being kept under lock and key, it is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to constructive use.
In fact, the college has put its premises to such fascinating use that it is not surprising to find students sitting in a math class that is bang next to a royal bath, or climbing up a dark turret that would lead them to their department. Jharokas and arched niches in the wall make for cozy and picturesque sitting arrangements where girls either partake of a snack or browse over their books. The school canteen, rather than being tucked away in some obscure corner is located right under the main entrance of the mansion, while the computer classroom and lecture hall are in the basement.
What’s more, the rooftops allow a quaint vista of the old city so that you can spot the Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque and even the Minar-e-Pakistan if you climb right to the top. It is no wonder that the haveli is fast gaining popularity as an ideal venue for Basant celebrations.
But, what is most heartening to know is that the heritage site is being properly looked after. Conservation work on the haveli was carried out by the Lahore Development Authority before it was converted into a college.
One
does wish though that it could be made accessible to more people, for by and
large it is bypassed by tourists visiting Lahore.