Lala Nihal Chand Temple (1876-77) and Nostalgic Reminiscences of Lahore pre-1947 as Told by His Granddaughter

Inside the Lahori gate, a tall, elegant curvilinear spire of a Hindu temple adorned with intricately designed Rathas on all faces, raised on fluted pillars perched atop with architectural embellishments and prowess. The temple is hidden amidst the new urban construction of the Walled city of Lahore. This architectural marvel still stands tall, whispering tales of the past.

The temple takes its name from Lala Nihal Chand, who served as a contractor for the colonial government.

A few months ago, I received a heartfelt email from Mr. Raghav Nayyar, a direct descendant of the esteemed Lala Nihal Chand. His grandmother holds the proud title of being Lala Nihal Chand's granddaughter. In his message, he expressed his appreciation for my blog and shared his passion for our shared history in Punjab. He mentioned how few internet sources document the beauty and multicultural history of the region.

Currently residing in the US, Raghav expressed his desire to visit Delhi whenever possible and his ultimate wish to explore Lahore and Gujranwala, the cherished homes of his family before the partition, in beautiful Pakistan. His curiosity about my experiences led him to inquire if I had the chance to visit the Lala Nihal Chand Mandir during my excursions.

As Raghav and I exchanged words, I couldn't help but feel the strong connection he had with his ancestral heritage. The temple's significance in his family's history is evident, with its picture proudly displayed on his wall.

Picture of Mandir Shared by Raghav

After three attempts, I finally set foot inside the magnificent Lala Nihal Chand Temple, nestled near the Lahori Gate. The present owner, unfortunately, wasn't too welcoming to visitors, but my determination prevailed, and I was able to explore this remarkable edifice firsthand. As I embark on writing an article about this architectural marvel, I turned to Raghav Nayyar for assistance in unraveling its historical background.

they are shops and resident quarters on entrance of temple building

The entrance arched gateway turned into shops

Raghav told me that his Nani has shared with him a few of her memories. He requested her Nani sibling who is older than her for more details.

Here is a transcription of my Nani's memories about the mandir. Most refugees don't speak about their life’s pre-partition. My Nana spoke about his life in his final years.

What I like most about this story is it shows Muslims and Hindus coexisted and befriended each other in this beautiful city. I am grateful that you visited the temple, and that it still exists.

When we were young, we used to come from Racecourse Road to pick up our father from Sutar Mandi, where he used to sit for his batik to listen to all the people around him, all problems they are having. We used to visit the mandir also, almost every day, to do our puja and all that as children. There used to be a masjid also next door. The road used to be with bricks, a small road street, all the red bricks were there. There used to be a Bagchi, known as a small garden. In between there used to be a walking place and both sides were the Bagchi.

 And when my father he passed away in '57, June they held a puja for him. All the people from there got together and did puja for my father. He was so well-known and so caring for everyone. No one has any problem with him at all.

I don't remember the mandir's name. My father's name was Rai Sahib Narsingh Das Chopra.

Mandir I am talking about in Lahore. That was known as Lala Nihal Chand Chopra, who built the mandir. It used to be known for our family mandir. He was my grandfather. He passed away at a very early age also. His Samadhi is also there in the mandir. We all almost every day used to go to puja. My mother, my auntie all of them used to go every second day.

There used to also be a Pandit ji named Khushi Ram, and he became a very close family member. We used to go and see the masjid sometimes because my grandfather had built a kua (well) and his name should still be there. We used to have such a good relationship with each and every one. Never had any problem.

So, in addition to the mandir, my grandfather built a haveli also very close by in the same area and there used to be another building where I still remember as a child my father used to go listen to all the people's problems. It used to be beautiful, ceiling and the worth seeing that part of it also.

Then my Nihal Chand, my grandfather, had a Katra Nihal Chand where there used to be I think 107 houses or something on his name.

One of the community members who used to do dye business used to dye the clothes in Sutar Mandi itself, but he lost his father. One evening, one afternoon we came around 4 to pick him, my father. He says no, I won't be able to come back with you children as I have to go for something. And my father put his pagri, his saafaa pagri in the buggy and says you go back home and send whatever Tonga, buggy, car, whatever is there. Send it back to me because I have to go and attend the ceremony. And he was so caring for everyone, he never realized who was from which religion, which place but everyone used to be part of our family.

Very sweet of Ali. God bless him.

You can't imagine how much I used to remember our Sitla Mandir whenever a child with measles or chicken pox. After the recovery, we will go there to take the blessings. Used to be in one corner of the road.

After picking up our father from Sutar Mandi we will stop to buy fried pakora from dariwala at the corner of the street and used to be so many stalls of fruits and buy fruit from there. Still, remember once I was wearing pink color orange, and a cotton fabric frock. They ask me how beautiful the dress is looking and started talking around them. Later on, advised by family, girls are not supposed to do all that.

Khan Sahib, our very close and good friend, used to go to Mussoorie Hill station together. The perfect human being. He saved my father, and after the partition, my father came to Mussoorie. Can you imagine later on, he came to the Amritsar border with a few portraits of his grandfather, father, and other family members, three big paintings from the mandir also.

By the end of Jan 1957, Khan Sahib passed away. My father really cried. His best friend has gone.

We started school, at Sacred Heart, then Sir Ganga Ram school. All my sisters and younger brother used to go there early morning and three Maali used to come with bouquets of flowers for our class teachers.

Tonga, two, and one buggy will take us to school very close by, on Jail Road only. My older brothers used to go to St Anthony School.

Every Sunday, the band used to play on Mall Road, on the mall.

Every Thursday I do remember Mia Mir to get his blessing. Can't understand why I have so much faith in all the gurus. The Lahore temple had the statues of Ram, Sita, Lakshman & Hanuman. Pandits would do puja daily and local residents of Sutar Mandi would attend. Dussehra time was the big event annually.

July 16, 2023

It was heartwarming to see how he and his family were eager to connect with their roots and shared such great details with me. As the stories unfolded, my heart swelled with gratitude for being able to witness the remnants of this glorious past. The Lala Nihal Chand Mandir, though time-worn, still stands tall, preserving the memories of an era when love, harmony, and coexistence were cherished values.