KHANQAH DOGRAN AND TOMB OF HAJI DEWAN NIAMATULLAH (RA) (2018)

Date of Visit 08-03-2018

Embarking on a quest to find an old Mughal-era mosque, I set foot in the captivating city of Khanqah Dogran, nestled within the Sheikhupura District of Pakistan's Punjab province. Though my search for the mosque proved unsuccessful, fate had other plans in store for me. As disappointment threatened to overshadow my visit, the town unveiled a tapestry of historical wonders that delighted my curious spirit.

Once a part of the Gujranwala District until 1922, Khanqah Dogran has now found its place within the Safdarabad Tehsil of Sheikhupura District. Situated along the Sargodha to Sheikhupura Road, this enchanting city lies fifteen miles west of Farooqabad. When Nankana Sahib was established as a district, both Khanqah Dogran and Safdarabad earned the privilege of being included as cities within this newly formed administrative region known as Nankana Sahib.

The roots of Khanqah Dogran run deep, tracing back an impressive five centuries to its alleged founder, Haji Dewan Niamatullah Soharwardi (RA). In ancient records, the town was known by the name Cha Masroor, but with the arrival of Haji Dewan Niametullah (RA), a new chapter began, and the town adopted the name "Khita Dogran," meaning the land of Dogar. However, upon the passing of Dewan Saheb, the town underwent yet another transformation, becoming the Khanqah Dogran we know today. The name carries an intriguing literary meaning, referring to the 'graveyard of Dogar's.' Within the city, a peaceful graveyard stands as a testament to its storied past, housing the tomb of Haji Dewan Niamtullah Soharwardi, the esteemed founder, alongside the resting places of four other family members. Khanqah Dogran has also earned its reputation as a city of saints, with revered figures like Hazrat Pir Masoom Shah and Mahdas Abdalvi Hazrat Abdul Karim Chisti Rizvi dedicating their lives to the teachings of Islam. Their final resting places, marked by tombs, become sacred sites that add to the city's spiritual tapestry.

As I explored further, I discovered the architectural remnants of a bygone era—pre-partition houses that bear witness to the city's multicultural heritage. Constructed by Hindu families, these houses serve as poignant reminders of the harmonious coexistence that once thrived within Khanqah Dogran's walls. Amidst this historical charm, the remnants of a Hindu Temple still stand, echoing the echoes of devotion and religious diversity that were once celebrated here. And let's not forget the vibrant heartbeat of the city—the Farmer's Market. This bustling hub of activity brings together locals and traders, immersing visitors in a vibrant tapestry of colors, scents, and flavors.

Venturing to the south of Khanqah Dogran, I stumbled upon the remains of an ancient mound—a precious relic from the past. These remnants tell a tale of a Buddhist town called Usrur, which once flourished in this very location. To uncover the intricate details of this remarkable discovery, I invite you to delve into another blog that reveals the fascinating history behind this mound and its significance to the region.

Though my original purpose may not have been fulfilled, my journey through Khanqah Dogran proved to be an extraordinary experience. As I bid farewell to this captivating city, I carry with me cherished memories of its rich history, spiritual legacy, and vibrant cultural tapestry.

Tomb of Haji Dewan Niamat 

Mela at Khanqah Dogran

Hindu Temple at Khanqah Dogran

Pre-Partition houses

Tomb of Sheikh Musa Ahangar's Lahore (2018)

**Date of Visit18.08.2018

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

The shrine of Sheikh Musa Ahangar, a celebrated 15th-century saint, is located approximately one mile west of Lahore's walled city, along Mcleod Road. To reach the shrine, travel north towards the Railway Station and take a turn beyond Chowk Qilla Gujjar Singh, near the junction of Nicholson, Mcleod, and Flemming Roads. Entering the narrow Chiragh Din Street on the left (west), the shrine’s entrance is marked by an old arched gateway with a plaque that reads Mazar Sharif Hazrat Sheikh Musa Ahangar (Tomb of Sheikh Musa Ahangar). Inside the gateway lies a serene courtyard shaded by large trees, dominated by the imposing 16th-century tomb.

At the center of the courtyard stands a square tomb chamber, with openings on three sides. A rectangular mihrab projection adorns the western side, while northern and eastern openings are screened with small bricks. A small doorway, featuring a recent marble threshold, provides access to the tomb chamber. Constructed between 1519 and 1560, this tomb is among the earliest surviving Mughal-period structures in Lahore. It is also notable for its pre-Shahjahani tile work, showcasing a unique transitional style between the Multan and Lahore schools of architecture. The glazed tile decorations reflect influences from the Multani tradition.

The tomb’s simple square design is constructed using thin Mughalai bricks, with five-foot-thick walls that slightly taper in line with Multani traditions. The exterior features double-storeyed blind windows flanking the central windows, and a three-foot-high parapet above the roofline. A break in the parapet on the western side allows access via a ladder.

The dome, measuring over 15 feet in diameter, has a slightly shouldered profile and rests on a cylindrical neck. The transition from the square chamber to the dome is achieved using a series of niches: four large ones in the corners, forming an octagon, and 16 additional niches supporting a ring of 32 smaller niches above. Spearhead brackets provide further structural support. The dome is clad in turquoise blue wedge-shaped bricks, while the neck features lapis lazuli tiles arranged diagonally, separated by bands of terracotta molding. The upper sections of the walls display similar tilework, while the lower sections highlight the intricate brick patterns. Inside, the tomb chamber’s surfaces are adorned with fresco paintings and cusped arches inset with panels. While much of the original enameled green ceramic tiles noted by historian Latif have disappeared, traces of these decorative elements remain.

Natural light filters into the tomb through screened arches and windows above each opening. The interior of the dome is painted with an eight-pointed star pattern and roundels. Quranic verses, inscribed in Tughra script on the interior window borders, are accompanied by floral and geometric motifs in raised molding. The saint’s grave rests on a raised marble-tiled platform, though no ancient inscriptions survive.

The shrine exudes a tranquil ambiance, heightened by its unaltered historic character and the aged trees within its courtyard. While it is not as meticulously maintained as some other sites, its original features contribute to its sanctity and peaceful atmosphere.

The shrine compound includes several graves, including two located in a basement under a raised platform in the northeastern corner. One of these belongs to a Hindu woman who converted to Islam after witnessing a miracle by Sheikh Musa Ahangar. The basement graves are accessed through a small arched opening, and identical grave markers are visible above.

Sheikh Musa Ahangar, revered during the Lodhi period, was a blacksmith by profession, earning him the title Ahangar (ironsmith). His life and miracles are documented by Sheikh Abu Bakr in the Tazkira-e-Kutbul Alam. One famous account tells of a Hindu woman who brought the saint a spindle to straighten. Mesmerized by her beauty, the saint gazed at her, prompting the woman to accuse him of improper intentions. To prove his purity, the saint declared his admiration for the Creator’s craftsmanship and passed a red-hot spindle over his eyes, leaving them unharmed while the spindle turned to gold. The woman, awestruck by the miracle, embraced Islam.

Abul Fazl, the court historian of Akbar, also mentions Sheikh Musa Ahangar, noting his miracles and his burial in Lahore during Akbar’s early reign.

Syed Muhammad Ibrahim Daud Bandagi Kirmani (2018)

Date of Visit 06-03-2018

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)

Syed Muhammad Ibrahim alias Shaikh Daud Bandagi Kirmani was a famous 16th-century saint of the Qadiri order. His grandfather and great grandfather migrated from Kirman to Sitpur, Muzzafargarh in circa 1410. Muhammad Ibrahim was born in Sitpur in 1513 AD (919 AH). After receiving formal religious instruction in Dipalpur and Lahore at the hands of eminent scholars of the time, Shaikh Daud decided to relinquish all worldly and material pursuits and chose for himself the path of esotericism. Shaikh Daud, in the quest of spiritual enlightenment, spent years in extreme worship, complete solitude, and absolute self-denial. Although he obtained sainthood through the "Owaisi tariqat", that is, without recourse to any outward teacher or murshid, Shaikh Daud later joined the Qadiri Order at the hands of Shaikh Hamid Gillani Uchi at Satghara. After formally becoming a member of the influential Qadiri Silsilah, Daud Bandagi Kirmani established his khankah in the remote village of Shergarh (in present-day District Okara) which subsequently became the center of the Qadiri order and started to attract multitudes of people from all walks of life. Daud Bandagi Kirmani through his sanctity, egalitarianism, and compassion converted a large number of Jat and Rajput Hindu tribes of Punjab to Islam. Some of the tribes converted either fully or partially by the saint are, the Chatta's, Cheema's, Virk's, Bajwa's, Tarrar's, Sahi's, Wattoo's, Majhiana's, etc.

Some of the famous disciples of the saint were, Shah Abul Muali Kirmani Qadiri (his nephew and son-in-law), Mullah Abdul Qadir Badaoni (the famous historian during the time of Akbar), Shaikh Jalaluddin alias Behlol Dehlavi (the maternal ancestor of Maulana Abul Kalam Azad), Shaikh Abu Ishaq Muzangi, etc.

Shaikh Daud Bandagi Kirmani passed away in 1575 AD (982 AH). His mausoleum in Shergarh is a splendid example of early Mughal architecture. The interior of the mausoleum is decorated with intricate Naqashi – fresco. On each of the eight interior panels is a Persian couplet by Shah Abul Muali extolling the virtues of the saint. The annual Urs celebration of the Shaikh is held in Shergarh from the 13th to the 17th of March. Tens of thousands of devotees from all parts of the country throng in Shergarh to pay homage to the saint who brought their forefathers into the fold of Islam more than four centuries ago.

Hazrat Shah Bilawal Lahore, a revered saint, is known for having two tombs in his honor

09-09-2018

06-10-2018

Shah Bilawal, the son of Syed Usman and grandson of Syed Isa, migrated to the region with Mughal Emperor Humayun from Herat. Initially, he settled near the present-day location of Sheikhupura Fort and later moved to his final abode during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Shah Bilawal lived a devout life and passed away in the year 1636 A.D. at the age of seventy.

During the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the course of the Ravi River underwent a significant change. As a result, the resting place of Shah Bilawal's remains was relocated and reburied near Raja Dina Nath's garden. Astonishingly, even after the passage of 200 years, the saint's corpse remained remarkably fresh, a sight witnessed by numerous people.

However, due to subsequent alterations in the course of the Ravi River, another tomb was constructed at the new location. This second tomb serves as a testament to the veneration and respect for Shah Bilawal, ensuring his memory endures for generations to come.

New Shrine at Dina Naath Garden

Shrine near Sher Singh Samadhi

Shrine near Sher Singh Samadhi

Shrine near Sher Singh Samadhi

Shrine near Sher Singh Samadhi

Shrine near Sher Singh Samadhi

Shah Shahabuddin Nehra Shrine Lahore

Reference of Article Majid Sheikh (Dawn Newspaper)

07-10-2018

Nehra, son of Hazrat Mauj Darya Bukhari, was a pious man with views as orthodox can be. The word Nehra, in Hindi, means a lion, and it was one of the miracles of Shahabuddin performed in the Lahore Fort before Emperor Akbar that earned him this name. Two holy men, so very different from one another, yet in death near one another, not that it was their choice. Shahyum was buried far away from the city so that his followers did not influence the simple folk of Lahore.

Shahabuddin Nehra. His father Hazrat Mauj Darya Bukhari was a leading seer of his times, and it was to him that Emperor Akbar turned when he repeatedly failed to conquer the huge fort of Chattisgarh from the fierce Rajputs. In those days it was normal for rulers to seek the assistance of ‘holy men when they faced problems. One assumes it was a last resort measure, and it was to Hazrat Mauj Darya Bukhari that Akbar turned. He was summoned and the holy man refused royal horses and said he would be there before the horses, which is what exactly happened. How is it not for me to dwell on?

The holy man told the emperor to forget past failures and attack the fort before the sun rises the next day, and to keep attacking no matter what the cost. Exactly at noon, he would win. Exactly as predicted, down to the last detail, Akbar was able to conquer the fort, and it was this event that helped him to consolidate his empire. Back in Lahore Fort the emperor summoned the holy man, and a few courtiers, jealous of the new standing of Mauj Darya, shut the gates to his son Shahabuddin. In a rage, Shahabuddin roared and as several accounts tell us, he morphed into an angry lion. One push at the gates and it yielded with the guards fleeing.

The lion ran to where the emperor was, and as legend has it, he held forth his huge paw. The emperor hid behind Mauj Darya Bukhari and the lion withdrew and lay down. Mauj Darya scolded him for losing his temper and said that ‘court intrigues are part of life. The emperor understood what Mauj Darya meant and soon, as legend tells us, the lion returned to human form. The emperor named him ‘Nehra’, a name that remains with him till today.

Out of reverence for Mauj Darya Bukhari, the emperor built the tomb of his ‘peer’ even before he died. It is located at the western corner of Turner Road and east of Old Anarkali. The tomb of Syed Shahabuddin Nehra was built in the Mughal gardens just near Mughalpura. After the death of his father, Shahabuddin Nehra excelled in his understanding of the Quran and the Hadith. His ‘miracles’ were well-known and he avoided the Mughal court and its intrigues, but his advice was sought in moments of crisis. One account tells of him walking in a Lahore bazaar and people, out of fear, running away.