09th July 2023
Every morning, water carriers "mashkis" carrying their traditional water containers sprinkle water along the sides of the road to moisten the road surface and minimize dust, making the environment cleaner and more pleasant for travelers and pedestrians., I would eagerly hop on my father's Yamaha 80 motorcycle as he took me to school. As time passed, my two younger siblings joined us on this daily journey. One hurdle we often faced was the railway crossing at Mughalpura. Sometimes, we would find ourselves waiting for what felt like an eternity as a freight train passed by.
When
my father got transferred away from Lahore for a few years, we had to find
different ways to reach school. We ended up taking the Volvo bus, either route
56 or 57. Unfortunately, the Volvo drivers weren't always kind to us students,
and they rarely stopped the bus for us. Since the road wasn't very wide, we
would keep our fingers crossed, hoping that a traffic light would force another
vehicle to pause, allowing the Volvo bus to slow down and pick us up.
Although Tonga rides were available up to Saddar Bazaar, we avoided them in the mornings because they took too long.
During my free time, I reveled in the joy
of riding my trusty black BMX Hercules bike through the renowned Ramgarh, Ganj,
and Soekarno Bazaar, all located along the vibrant Shalimar link road.
Interestingly, Soekarno Bazaar was named after the Indonesian president who
visited Pakistan during the Bhutto government.
In
those days, the central median on the road was wider, spanning around 6 to 8
feet. It was adorned with a protective steel fence and decorated with
grass, and various trees. Families, kids, and groups of people would gather
there in the afternoon, enjoying each other's company. Being a food enthusiast,
I had my Favorite food spots, like Bilu ki Chat in Ganj Bazaar and Haji ka
Falooda, a delightful milk ice cream with noodles near Soekarno Bazaar.
The
nostalgia floods back as I think about the wonderful cinemas that graced
Shalimar link road. The names were like magic: Al-Riyaz, Anguri, Sahar,
Shalimar, and Shabnam. Shalimar cinema stood tall and proud with its
captivating inverted 'W' shape and its vibrant blue exterior. Each day, it
treated us to three delightful movie shows, starting in the afternoon and
continuing until the late hours of midnight. Oh, and on Fridays, they had an additional matinee
show! The anticipation was so strong that people would gather at the center green belt park
on Shalimar link road many hours before the short start, eagerly waiting to
secure their precious tickets. Long lines of
eager movie enthusiasts, standing patiently or sometimes engaged in playful
banter, all yearning for the chance to step into the magical world of cinema
Yet, it indeed was a golden era for cinema in Pakistan, and families found
immense joy in this beloved form of entertainment. The intervals during the
films were something special. It was like a mini carnival as the fast-food
sellers would enter the cinema, tempting us with their delectable treats. The
aroma filled the air, and we indulged in these tasty delights while eagerly
waiting for the movie to resume. However, if someone accidentally crossed the
path of the projector, oh, the uproar that ensued! The entire hall would erupt
in shouts and protests, reminding the unwitting offender to be more cautious.
Ticket prices varied, and the galleries and boxes were considered
the most prestigious and expensive seating area, almost like a status symbol.
It was a privilege to watch the movies from those elevated seats. On the other
hand, the first-row tickets were the most affordable.
Enthusiasm and devotion marked the celebration of Eid Milad un-Nabi on the Shalimar link road as processions and parades were organized. These vibrant processions involved large gatherings of people who marched through the streets, carrying green flags, banners, and religious slogans. They recited praises and sang naats (poems) in honor of Prophet Muhammad. The surroundings were adorned with lights, banners, and green-colored flags or ribbons, symbolizing the significance of the day. Streets and public places were also embellished to create a festive atmosphere. Ramgarh, Ganj, and Soekarno Bazaar were adorned extensively, attracting visitors from all parts of the city who came to witness the beautifully decorated bazaars. A platform showcased models of the Kaaba and Masjid Nabvi.
As part of the Eid Milad un-Nabi celebrations, the community engaged in the distribution of food and sweets, known as "langar." This act of generosity and gratitude aimed to express appreciation for the blessings bestowed upon them. Additionally, many individuals organized gatherings called "Milad," where they congregated to listen to religious lectures and speeches about the life and teachings of Prophet Muhammad. These gatherings typically took place in mosques, community centers, or private homes.
As
time passed, the film industry faced a decline. The easy availability of video
cassette recorders reduced the number of cinemagoers, as people could now enjoy
movies in the comfort of their homes. The cinema owners found it increasingly
challenging to cover expenses, and they were left with no choice but to sell
the land where the cinemas once stood. Shabnam Cinema transformed into Shabnam Centre.
Al-Riyaz made way for the Al-Madina Electronics Centre. Sahar was transformed
into residential quarters. And where Shalimar Cinema once enchanted us, Shahnaz
Hospital now stands. Anguri Cinema's building was the last one dismantled to make space for
a new shopping mall.
In
Mughalpura, there were several shops that sold garlands made of flowers and
currency. Learning shorthand and typewriter writing were considered valuable
skills for job opportunities after completing matriculation, and there were
numerous centers along Shalimar link road near the entrance of Ganj Bazaar.
The
traditional method of extracting mustard oil with the help of oxen in Punjab,
India, is commonly known as "kachhi ghani" or "kolhu" (also
spelled as "kohlu" or "kohlu"). One such setup in a shop was present at Mughalpura.
In Mughalpura, there was a well-known building called
Jahaz Building. It had a concrete model of an airplane on top of it. Jahaz
Building was a popular shopping mall back then, and it had many shoe stores on
the ground floor, offering various brands of shoes.
Another
noteworthy place on the road was the famous Mughalpura police station. In the
80s, the popular drama series "Andhera Ujala" was filmed there,
attracting hundreds of people eager to catch a glimpse of the late actor Qavi
Khan. Adjacent to the police station, there used to be a spacious cricket
ground, which is now replaced by a PSO petrol pump. In those days, a few tall
trees adorned the area around the cricket ground.
At the Majha wala ada (Cow Stand) stop, there was the renowned Millet School for boys.
The school was known for two things: its students consistently achieved high
marks in matriculation exams, and its strict headmaster who had a reputation
for using a stick to discipline his students.
Furthermore,
at Majhawala, there was a large marshy area where people would dispose of their
garbage. It was common to see vultures circling the place, but sadly, they have
disappeared from Lahore completely.
There existed four pre-partition Sarais along Shalimar
Link Road: Ramgarh, Majha Wala Adha, Ganj Bazaar, and Mughalpura. Each Sarai
had gateways and a central courtyard. Presently, three of them retain some
remnants. After the creation of Pakistan, these Sarais were allocated to
migratory families.
There
was always a huge rush in the mornings at Hakeem Chena Wala, located in front
of Ramgarh Bazaar, as he served every customer for free. My father used to tell
me a story about a customer who came daily from the Railway workshops, who was short
of money. He would eat every day without paying, thinking that the shopkeeper,
Hakeem, didn't notice. One day, when he received his salary, he paid for all
the days he had eaten. In response, Hakeem told him that he could continue
eating for free if he wanted to. That was the culture in Lahore back in those
days.
Sahowaari,
another colony situated on Shalimar Link Road, was originally a village prior
to the partition. It derived its name from Sahoo, who owned a significant
portion of the land in that village. Over time, it has transformed into a
concrete jungle.
Among
the famous doctors on Shalimar link road at that time were Captain Dr. Aftab
and Captain Dr. Ghanzfar Ali Shah. Both were great doctors, and the latter saved
my younger brother's life from Meningitis.
There was another sports ground near the oxygen factory,
where now Total pumping station was made. There were a number of plant nurseries
present on Shalimar link road.
The grave of Shaikh Muhammad Ismail, also known as
Mian Wadda, is nestled one mile south of the exquisite Shalimar Gardens. During
the reign of Akbar, in the year 1008 A.H. (1599 A.D.), Shaikh Muhammad Ismail
constructed an adjoining school, known as Madrassa, with the primary aim of
imparting Quranic education. The Madrassa boasted numerous cells to accommodate
faqirs (Sufi ascetics) and a splendid mosque.
In the 90s at the junction of Shalimar link road, and Grand
Trunk Road the Late PPP leader and prime minister conducted a massive political
gathering. Her helicopter landed in the parking area of Shalimar Garden.
Muammar Gaddafi When he came to Pakistan to attend the second Islamic Summit
Conference in 1974, he visited Shalimar Garden while traveling on Shalimar
Link road.
Before the creation of Pakistan, the Ramgarh area on
Shalimar Link Road was a predominantly Hindu neighborhood. It comprised narrow
streets and was home to numerous pre-partition buildings that belonged to Hindu
families, which still stand to this day.
Opposite Anguri cinema, there once stood Anguri
Nursery. Interestingly, during the Mughal era, historically Anguri Bagh was present
at the same location. The nursery featured a wall constructed using small
Mughal-era bricks. Notably, this fortified wall has loopholes, also known as
crenels, at the bottom section. These openings served a specific purpose for
guns and other ranged weapons. Some parts of this historical wall remain intact
today,
My grandparents, Nana and Nani, resided in the Bukhari
building near Ganj Bazaar, while my parents' house was situated behind Shalimar
Garden. Every year, the occasion of Mela Cheragh would transform Shalimar Link
Road into a festive environment. It was a sight to behold as devotees would
gather, appearing in rallies and dancing to the beats of dhol drums. They
carried chadors adorned with Islamic verses, intending to offer them at the
tomb of Madhu Lal Hussain.
During my childhood, at the tender age of eight or
nine, I had the opportunity to accompany my Nana on foot from Mughalpura to
Shalimar Bagh to attend the Mela Chiragh. The atmosphere was electric, and a
massive audience would flock to the Mela, including those who also visited the
cinemas during the Mela Chiragh days. This event attracted a diverse range of
visitors, both from the local community and nearby villages. People would come
to soak in the vibrant atmosphere, indulge in delectable traditional food,
explore handicraft shops, and revel in captivating music and dance
performances.
For me, the most fascinating aspect of the Mela was
the Lucky Irani Circus, which would only grace us with its presence for three
days a week. Lions, elephants, and various other acts made it one of the finest
circuses in Pakistan.
As I reflect on the memories and experiences woven
into the fabric of Shalimar Link Road, I realize that it has evolved and
transformed over time. The road that once connected Mughalpura to the grandeur
of the historic Grand Trunk Road now bears witness to the change. Yet, amidst
the changes, it remains a testament to the cherished moments, the vibrant
festivals, the enchanting cinemas, and the lively atmosphere that shaped my
childhood. Shalimar Link Road will forever hold a special place in my heart.
